Reading milirad reticle

[.308winguy]

Hello. My first time here, and relatively new to milirad scoping, so I have liberally coated myself in flame retardant ;-)

I have what is probably an obvious question, but the answer is alluding me.
I have a Vortex FFP mil. scope (torqued down, sliding not an excuse).
I have a 1 MOA at 100 yds.
I go to 300 yds., based on my calculations I should dial in 1.3 mils. I shoot and I let's say I am 6-8 inches high. Find so far good. Looking at my reticle, I estimate how many clicks to adjust or the corresponding hold over. I fire and I am now completely off paper. WTH!

My question: Does the change in distance (100 > 300) require more than just using the mil hash marks on the reticle? My understanding is that mils extend out forever, but I must be missing something. Might be bad shoots, but...

Thanks in advance!

 

[Reload10]

If you are using the ffp reticle for corrections, Idk how the hell you're "off paper".

Dial 1.3 for your 300yd target, fire 3 rds, let's say after milling with the reticle you only needed 1.0 for a waterline hit. Dial down 0.3 and you're good.

 

[6.5SH]

Hello. My first time here, and relatively new to milirad scoping, so I have liberally coated myself in flame retardant ;-)

I have what is probably an obvious question, but the answer is alluding me.
I have a Vortex FFP mil. scope (torqued down, sliding not an excuse).
I have a 1 MOA at 100 yds.
I go to 300 yds., based on my calculations I should dial in 1.3 mils. I shoot and I let's say I am 6-8 inches high. Find so far good. Looking at my reticle, I estimate how many clicks to adjust or the corresponding hold over. I fire and I am now completely off paper. WTH!

My question: Does the change in distance (100 > 300) require more than just using the mil hash marks on the reticle? My understanding is that mils extend out forever, but I must be missing something. Might be bad shoots, but...

Thanks in advance!

Based on your description you both dialed and held 1.3 mils to get 6-8" high (assuming the .308 in your handle is what you were shooting). You then added another adjustment after that putting you even further over your target.

 

[sam4886]

First, make sure you're turning turrets the right direction. We all fuck that up once in a while.

Second, your scope probably has hashes every .2 or .5 mils. Your turrets are probably .1, so make sure you're doing the math correctly.

 

[Evintos]

Based on your description you both dialed and held 1.3 mils to get 6-8" high (assuming the .308 in your handle is what you were shooting). You then added another adjustment after that putting you even further over your target.

First, make sure you're turning turrets the right direction. We all fuck that up once in a while.

Second, your scope probably has hashes every .2 or .5 mils. Your turrets are probably .1, so make sure you're doing the math correctly.

Assuming wind isn't blowing you off target, the bolded parts mentioned above is what I also think you're doing.

Choose just one of the following options -

1. Use the reticle hash marks to hold over or under without touching the turret (assuming the turret is set at 0). Your aiming point uses the part of the reticle that would equate to your elevation/windage correction (it will not be the center of the reticle)
2. Use your turret to dial elevation/windage. If you dial your turrets for the elevation or windage adjustment your aiming point is the center of your reticle
3. Use a combo of both dialing the turret and holding over but the combined total should equal to what you want the final adjustment value to be. For example hold 1 mil and dial 0.3mils or Hold 0.5 mils, dial 0.8 mils, or any combination you can think of that would total 1.3 mils). You aim like you would on option 1, hold at whatever part of the reticle that would equate to your needed elevation/windage after dialing the turret.

Consult your manual for reticle subtensions and adjustment value per click of the turret. Chances are like @sam4886, they are 0.1 mil per click. For 1.3 mil adjustment, you would therefore need 13 clicks.

The amount of correction (elevation or windage) you require as well as personal preference determines how you make your adjustments (do you like spinning the turret or would you just rather holdover).

Only reasons why one wouldn't work is if the reticle subtensions doesn't go high enough for you to hold the necessary amount which would require you to dial the turret or the amount of turret adjustment wasn't enough and would require you to hold the remaining value (basically utilizing option 3).

 

[smoothy8500]

First, make sure you're turning turrets the right direction. We all fuck that up once in a while.

That gets my vote.

 

[nutation]

First, make sure you're turning turrets the right direction. We all fuck that up once in a while.

I once mounted a red dot sideways, so that the elevation and windage adjustments were swapped, and burned through more rounds than I'd like to admit trying to zero and wondering what was going on.

 

[RayDBonz]

Another possible point of confusion: To hold over you are actually using the reticle markings UNDER the crosshair or center of the reticle.

Also, no need to mix units or try to convert anything. For example, if you dial 1.3 mils and are not in the center of the target, use the markings on the reticle to measure how many mils you are from center and adjust accordingly.