Gunsmithing Reamer print help

[LSandBinc]

Does anyone have the reamer print of the 284 winchester made from Lapua 6.5 x 284 brass. Yeah I know call and they will send it to you. After 7 fruitless calls I've decided to try elsewhere. If someone could send it to me I'd be greatful.
[email protected] Thank you

 

[LSandBinc]

Re: Reamer print help

Morning bump hoping a new crowd will read.

 

[tommyc279]

Re: Reamer print help

PTG can usually help you out.

 

[LSandBinc]

Re: Reamer print help

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tommyc279</div><div class="ubbcode-body">PTG can usually help you out. </div></div>
Been there done that read above.

 

[bohem]

Re: Reamer print help

I'm assuming that you're looking for a no-turn neck right?

0.317 works for Lapua necked up 6.5x284
0.315 requires a slight clean up pass in Lapua and is borderline for WW 284 brass
0.313 requires turning in both.

 

[LSandBinc]

Re: Reamer print help

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm assuming that you're looking for a no-turn neck right?

0.317 works for Lapua necked up 6.5x284
0.315 requires a slight clean up pass in Lapua and is borderline for WW 284 brass
0.313 requires turning in both. </div></div>
Yes I want a no turn neck but I'm told the real difference is in the body/base area. While some shooters tell me thier chamber was cut with a straight .284 reamer and others say get the reamer made for Lapua brass or it will never fit in the chamber. Also Nat Lambreth tells me his reamer is 3175 and you have to turn necks when using Lapua brass

 

[turbo54]

Re: Reamer print help

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm assuming that you're looking for a no-turn neck right?

0.317 works for Lapua necked up 6.5x284
0.315 requires a slight clean up pass in Lapua and is borderline for WW 284 brass
0.313 requires turning in both. </div></div>

I'd argue a .317 neck is borderline for WW brass, and .315 is a nogo.

I've got ~1000 pcs of WW brass, NOT from the same year or lot number. In fact, ~500 of them I bought once fired from a hunter that bought a box or two a year for over 20 years.

An unturned, loaded WW case will measure between .3145 and .3160

Unturned, necked-up and loaded Lapua will measure between .3115" and .3125".

 

[bohem]

Re: Reamer print help

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Unturned, necked-up and loaded Lapua will measure between .3115" and .3125".</div></div>

Must be a different lot than I measured, the necked up Lapua I have won't fit in a 313 neck chamber that I cut off of a 284.

If the WW is .316, then run a 319 neck.

 

[turbo54]

Re: Reamer print help

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ARShuter</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm assuming that you're looking for a no-turn neck right?

0.317 works for Lapua necked up 6.5x284
0.315 requires a slight clean up pass in Lapua and is borderline for WW 284 brass
0.313 requires turning in both. </div></div>
Yes I want a no turn neck but I'm told the real difference is in the body/base area. </div></div>

I've heard this also. However, I can't substantiate it. I can say my reamer is the PTG 284 "match", intended for Lapua brass. WW seems to work fine, though it seems to fit tighter, as I've had to SB size them to fit my chamber...even new WW, out of the bag, through an FLS, and into the chamber is slightly tight, and rubs a bit about 1/2" up from the Casehead.

 

[turbo54]

Re: Reamer print help

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bohem</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Unturned, necked-up and loaded Lapua will measure between .3115" and .3125".</div></div>

Must be a different lot than I measured, the necked up Lapua I have won't fit in a 313 neck chamber that I cut off of a 284.

If the WW is .316, then run a 319 neck. </div></div>

If I were ordering a new 284 reamer for a field/tactical rifle, I'd choose .320 or .321". Yeah, it'll "work" Lapua necks a bit more, but use a bushing die and anneal it sometimes and it'll be fine. WW will have comfortable clearance, and never need turning.

I hate turning...

Tight neck clearance isn't crucial to excellent accuracy. Maybe it is crucial to fucking-phenominal accuracy, I don't know. I have rifles with .008" clearance per side that shoot better than 1/2 moa.

 

[LSandBinc]

Re: Reamer print help

Tight neck clearance isn't crucial to excellent accuracy. Maybe it is crucial to fucking-phenominal accuracy, I don't know. I have rifles with .008" clearance per side that shoot better than 1/2 moa.


I talked with Jerry Terney a while back about this he claims the 284 benifites from a little more neck clearance (.0025 per side) for a cleaner bullet release.

 

[Cigarcop]

Re: Reamer print help

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ARShuter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Yes I want a no turn neck but I'm told the real difference is in the body/base area. While some shooters tell me thier chamber was cut with a straight .284 reamer and others say get the reamer made for Lapua brass or it will never fit in the chamber. Also Nat Lambreth tells me his reamer is 3175 and you have to turn necks when using Lapua brass </div></div>

You are correct the Lapua brass is larger at the base, you can use Win brass but the primer pockets will loosen up quickly due to the stretching.