Gunsmithing Rebarreling Ruger No1 rifles

[Easy_E]

A friend has a rifle that needs a new barrel and I would like to try it .
Looking around theres not much for info online about doing this . Anyone know of any resources books video etc that give info on the extractors and tuning them to shoot ?
Thanks Ed

 

[Timgunner]

I've replaced a Ruger #1 barrel and had no problem, I kept the caliber/cartridge the same just upgraded the barrel and optics mounting situation. I think you might run into issues if you changed the cartridge to one with a different bolt face and didn't swap the extractor. I had a custom barrel profile turned to use a Picatinny mount instead fo the Ruger rings. There are reports of the awkward way the firing pin spring hangs under the barrel causing problems. "EABco" sells a block that puts pressure from the action protrusion(that holds the spring) to the bottom of the barrel to cure this issue. The barrel profile I used was thick enough to put pressure on the end of the action without the need for the block. The rifle I built shoots in the 0.2" range so I think these things worked. I also replaced the trigger which helped. if you have any questions on the nuts and bolts aspect feel free to message me.

 

[Easy_E]

Thank you for the reply the Ruger is a 450 bushmaster and we plan to do this one in 350 Legend so a replacement extractor is here . I've done a few triggers on them but that's it so it might be a challenge getting the extractor cuts right.
The firing pin spring setup is all the issues everyone posts about . The barrel is already heavy up near the action so I'm hoping to reuse the old scope setup.
It will be a week or so I'll bug you about your wrench setup.

 

[FjallJager]

I fixed a Ruger #1 accuracy problem in a factory one by placing two O-rings as a gapper between the barrel and forend. Game me a 50% increase in accuracy.

 

[Timgunner]

Thank you for the reply the Ruger is a 450 bushmaster and we plan to do this one in 350 Legend so a replacement extractor is here . I've done a few triggers on them but that's it so it might be a challenge getting the extractor cuts right.
The firing pin spring setup is all the issues everyone posts about . The barrel is already heavy up near the action so I'm hoping to reuse the old scope setup.
It will be a week or so I'll bug you about your wrench setup.

Making the extractor cut isn’t hard if you have a mill. I’ve seen guys set up the barrels vertically on bridge port type mills and have the barrel hanging below the cross slide. My mill is a hybrid horizontal vertical mill and I had to set it up on the table and use a woodruff key seat cutter. It was not difficult. I was very meticulous about transferring dimensions from the factory barrel. BTW these cuts are the very last operation before assembly. You need to have the barrel threaded chambered and head-spaced to the action. I didn’t want any problems with indexing the cuts, so I torqued the barrel on and scribed the cuts and made an index mark on the the barrel below the stock line. I then removed the barrel and made the cuts so I would be positive I got everything lined up exactly right when I assembled it. You will probably find that the breach block is not squared to the action face. This was the case with my action. It was out like two and a half thousandths. I couldn’t conceive of any way to remedy this without machining a new breach block and I wasn’t about to do that. Turns out it didn’t matter as far as accuracy is concerned. Hope this is helpful

 

[iceng]

I converted a 22-250rem into 585nyati. Wasn't that hard, but extractor was a bit of a bitch, and had to relieve action / falling block so you could need rounds.

The barrels (threading) is straight forward.

 

[Flakin Hoover Coon]

I am rebarreling a #1 varmint 22-250, to a 6.5 PRC, I have ordered the block from EAB co, but also noticed the forearm is touching firm against the barrel, can I relieve that ( free float) the forearm , and glass bed the inletting between the hanger and forearm inletting? I am aware of the extractor modification, and will be turning the barrel to same dimentions as factory barrel , so I can use same base mounts!

 

[Easy_E]

I should have replied back here sooner the rifle turned out great shoot as good as it looks. The barrel profile is the same as Remington sendero the mount fit perfect just needed tapped .
The biggest issue I had was threading the barrel not having wire gauges for the first one . When threading you can't just check the thread with the action because of the hanger system . Threaded it to what I thought was close pulled it out of the lathe and it wouldn't start . So we learned a couple things re indicating the barrel and getting the threads "timed" to cut deeper .
The extractor cut ended up being the easy part chucking an old lathe chuck on the edge of the mill table to hold the barrel upright. Going from 450 bushmaster to 350 legend just took a 223 extractor .
Ended up rebarreling four of these for the same family they all shoot nice didn't need any work on the hanger just free floating the hand guard .

 

[502Chevelle]

Those came out nice!

 

[ZiaHunter]

Robert Gradous re-barreled a No.1V for me in 220 Swift just before he passed away. Put a Krieger 4 groove 1:12 barrel on it and had the scope mounts made by D'Arcy Echols. It took him about 18 months to do the job and he called me numerous times during the project to let me know his thought process and seemed to be a labor of love on his part. Unfortunately the picture does not due justice to the beautiful job he did.