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Redding bushing dies and .308

Bbowl1

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 14, 2012
76
0
Portland, Oregon
I am finding lots of tid bits and different info on this.

I am loading 175smk in Lapua brass and want/need to upgrade dies.

Rifle = GA Precision .308, 2nd snipers hide build, mine is 49/50. McMillan a5, 24" mike rock 1-11.25, rem700 bolt and reciever.

I have been loading my match .308 for a few years with just a lee single stage and lee deluxe die set. With very good results. 3" 5 shot at 600yd is not unheard of. I have been initially full length sizing then neck sizing after firing. I am Annealing every 3x and after annealing I FL size again. In between I neck size. I just bought a new press (550b) and have a new batch of Lapua brass. I found serious lines in each cases neck after 0x fired initial sizing (see pic) and am just taking that as a sign I need better dies. The lee fl die is clean and no visible burs or anything...

For the actual question-

I want to buy the redding s die set. It seems to me like the neck size with a body die is what I should get. (Of course with the seating die). Is there any reason I shouldn't continue with the cycle process I have been doing?

The other thing I want to know -

I am measuring my loaded case necks from 2 different batches of Lapua at .336 consitently. But this is not with a ball micrometer, just my regular digital caliper. I understand that can give false readings on a round surface.

It seems to me like I should buy the .335 bushing. And...maybe the .334 as well.

Shouldn't there be a standard bushing for this combo? Do I really need to buy 6 of these $20 bushings?? I see very little variations between brass batches and bullets...

Or... My friend is out is town right now and I am not able to ask him any questions. He is shooting an almost identical load out of a gap crusader and using the redding bushing dies. Should I just copy his bushing? His rifle shoots a tad bit better than mine too. I'll give that too his better press, better dies and the Templar action.

 
Last edited:
I do .002, although I am using 178 amax and my measurements are a little different to yours.


I asked Redding and the EVP sent me this email.




Good morning,
Both are correct -0.001 is fine is a single loaded rifle with very high quality and consistent brass. We changed the website to -0.002 due to the large numbers of new users of the Type -S dies who may not have the experience and capability to recognize the inherent variations in virtually all lots of brass, especially as it has been made in the past two to three years.

Personally I do -0.002 and run a carbide expander to assure perfect reliability in neck tension

These expanders are -0.0015 under bullet diameter. This process also moves any brass imperfections from inside the case to outside the case.
Robin Sharpless
Executive Vice President
Redding Reloading Equipment
Phone 607-753-3331
Fax 607-756-8445
Home | Redding Reloading Equipment: reloading equipment for rifles, handguns, pistols, revolvers and SAECO bullet casting equipment




On Aug 16, 2012, at 6:08 PM, Tech LIne wrote:


PLEASE CLICK REPLY when answering to keep the entire email thread together and to be sure the original tech receives your followup question.

Tech LIne
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Home | Redding Reloading Equipment: reloading equipment for rifles, handguns, pistols, revolvers and SAECO bullet casting equipment

Redding Reloading Equipment
1089 Starr Road
Cortland, NY 13045

607-753-3331 (voice)
607-756-8445 (fax)



My Question:


Phone
Subject Neck Tension corrected
Message have the type S FL bushing die set for my 308W. Using Lapua brass my avg loaded cartridge neck size is .338. Reviewing the video posted on YouTube, Patrick states the proper bushing will be .001 smaller, on your tech tip page it mentions .001 smaller (.337 in my situation) as well, and to go smaller if you can push the bullet in further by hand or pressed against the bench. On your FAQ page it mentions .002 smaller.

I just need clarification, should I use .337, .336 or smaller?
 
You'll just have to get some bushings and find which one your rifle likes. I tried 332 - 335 and settled on the 333 (with no expander ball).
 
The bushings in the Redding die are set loose to allow the bushing to self-center on the case neck. As a result, the last 1/16" of the neck is not sized at all; this has not proven to be a problem with neck tension. It may affect neck tension if your cases are trimmed below 2.000", but I doubt it.

roggom has given you good info on neck tension. With thick LC & PPU brass, I found 0.001" was doable, but with softer, thinner brass such as Winchester 308, the bullets were too loose in the neck and were easily seated deeper with only mild pressure applied by hand.
 
Using Lapua brass my avg loaded cartridge neck size is .338.

I just checked 15 rounds of Lapua brass with 175 SMKs and they measure .338 as well.
Using the Redding "Type S" FL die, I full length size and bump the shoulder back .001 while using a .336 bushing after each firing.
 
What did you use To measure it?

I used a pair of Starrett dial calipers. Mine have a portion of the blades that are very thin at the tips and allow very accurate measurements. Just double checked a different 10 or so rounds with a pair of cheap "Harbor Freight" digital calipers and still got .338. Don't really know why your measurements are not in line with mine and Roggom's. Might want to check with another pair of calipers or check the calibration on yours.
 
I used a pair of Starrett dial calipers. Mine have a portion of the blades that are very thin at the tips and allow very accurate measurements. Just double checked a different 10 or so rounds with a pair of cheap "Harbor Freight" digital calipers and still got .338. Don't really know why your measurements are not in line with mine and Roggom's. Might want to check with another pair of calipers or check the calibration on yours.

I'm using a frankford arsenal and have a cheaper one I just tried with. I'm also measuring 2 different batches of loaded brass bought a year apart from one another and they both measure .336-.336-5
 
I used a pair of Starrett dial calipers. Mine have a portion of the blades that are very thin at the tips and allow very accurate measurements. Just double checked a different 10 or so rounds with a pair of cheap "Harbor Freight" digital calipers and still got .338. Don't really know why your measurements are not in line with mine and Roggom's. Might want to check with another pair of calipers or check the calibration on yours.

In finding that it varies a lot depending on how you measure it. I get .336 with a firm grip, how I reguraly use the caliper with comparators etc. Just barely touching the jaw points to the neck I get .338, squeezing down I can make it show down to .334.