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Redding full length bushing setup

mtang45

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  • Apr 14, 2006
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    Kansas City, Missouri
    I have a new Redding FL Type S bushing die for a 7mm STW setup in my Co-Ax press. I followed the usual procedure for setting up a full length die and sized the first case. When I removed the case only about 2/3 of the neck was resized. I fiddled with the adjustment ran it through again...same result. Got out the setup instructions to make sure I wasn't having a senior moment and yep setup right. I can't get the case any further into the die as it is bottomed out on the shell holder (or the Co-Ax equivalent).

    Is this a bad die or am I missing something?
     
    Yep that's the way they are in some calibers, IMHO the slightly unsized portion of the neck centers the cartridge in the chamber, and the since the neck is not sized all the way to the neck/shoulder junction the appearance of donuts is less
     
    With some Redding dies on a COAX press the dies bottomed out before the case was fully sized. I experienced this with a body die in 22-250. Ground a couple of thousandths of the die and it worked fine. First thing I would check would be to determine if the case is being sufficiently sized with the shoulder set back to the proper dimension. If not, you may need to have the die worked on. If this is not an issue, set the die to the proper headspace setting without the bushing. Once setup insert the bushing into the die with the stamp indicating the bushing size down. Screw the decapping assembly all the way in until it bottoms out then back it off a small amount to allow the bushing to float. I have several Type S dies and they won't completely size the neck down to the junction with the shoulder and are not designed to do so.
     
    I've got a lot bushing neck dies and bushing FL dies and they can be all over the map, regarding sizing 100% of the neck length and I'm loading on a 550b, so it's not a Coax issue solely.

    If you're having the problem and you want to turn your necks, I guess you need to turn them out of the box, would be my best guess? Then measure the neck wall thickness and get the appropriate bushing.

    Chris
     
    Thanks for all the feedback and suggestions. It kind of sounds like a bushing die is not what I need for a couple of reasons. The idea was to first, not work the brass so much and get better life out of it and second to get more precise brass resizing and therefore more consistent loads. Any process that requires full neck reduction/expansion/neck turn has already gone through the normal resizing cycle. To throw in a partial resize and expansion again is just adding more work in the brass and defeats the first objective. Second I already only have about .25" neck holding my long Berger Hybrids, reducing that to .16 can't be good for consistency and concentricity.

    Just basing that opinion on the responses so far. If I'm seeing it wrong please edumacate me. Otherwise this die is going back.
     
    I think you are adding too much to this process. My process for turning case necks is to start with new or once fired brass.Trim to same length. Then I run it thru an expander die that fits the neck turning mandrel in my neck tool. Then I turn the necks to the desired thickness. Then I load and shoot them. After that, I use the bushing neck die. Neck turning is usually a one time deal. Look at Sinclairs catalog, they explain this better than me. Lightman
     
    I have a new Redding FL Type S bushing die for a 7mm STW setup in my Co-Ax press. I followed the usual procedure for setting up a full length die and sized the first case. When I removed the case only about 2/3 of the neck was resized. I fiddled with the adjustment ran it through again...same result. Got out the setup instructions to make sure I wasn't having a senior moment and yep setup right. I can't get the case any further into the die as it is bottomed out on the shell holder (or the Co-Ax equivalent).

    Is this a bad die or am I missing something?
    Hi mtang45,

    Lemme start with the disclaimer that I don't at all know if this is the problem you're seeing or not--it just sounds a bit similar to something I encountered a little while ago. If you're using the Type S die, then I assume you're also using a Redding titanium neck bushing in there, yes? If so, do you have the bushing inserted with the caliber information facing up so you can read it when you open the die, or is it facing down? I originally thought it made no difference, but another Hide member set me straight on that: it matters (the thing actually tapers slightly). The printed side should be facing down. As soon as I fixed that, my neck resizing went fine. Like I said, I don't actually know if this is the problem you're having, but it sounds somewhat similar to what I experienced.

    Best of luck.

    Yours,

    David
     
    Are you serious David S? why the fuck don't they tell us this shit when we buy it? Good to know though, now I have to go check.


    mtang45, have you completely taken apart the die though? Inside there are two adjustment methods you can make to the decapping rod that holds the bushing down. Theres a screw-on circular piece of metal that acts a stop to the bushing allowing you to choose how much of the neck you want sized. I'm guessing it works when the case enters the die and the neck enters the bushing, depending on where the "stopper" is located it either holds the bushing down flush against the die closest to the shoulder sizing the entire neck or if the stop is backed off a bit then the bushing is not held flush when the case enters the die and the neck pushes the bushing up until it stops sizing only part of the neck. I've played with mine a bit and this is what happens. The decapping rod also screws out so you can lower this as well.
     
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    The side with the bushing size is stamped is always faced down. Also it is important to let the bushing float in the die so it aligns properly with the neck. Great dies and use them almost exclusively.