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Redding Type S dies overkill for AR reloading?

Ape_Factory

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May 23, 2020
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San Antonio, Texas
I am a new reloader. Currently developing a few different loads for two calibers, .223 and .308. Both are fired from AR-style auto-feed rifles.

I am having an issue only with the .308 rounds which is what has prompted this post. Specifically, I am having a hard time seating the bullets and the bullets are being left with marks up to deformities created by the bullet seater portion of the die. I am working through these issues with a lot of research and a bit of experimentation with dummy rounds while trying not to burn money. To add to the issue, I've already primed all of the brass. Lesson learned on that one.

Technical details, some of which I believe are leading to my issues:
-Brass is wet-tumbled in stainless media with a bit of soap and vinegar. Force dried using moving air.
-I'm using two different cases, one was sized by me (will get to specifics) and one came pre-sized. The cases I sized are PMC, the pre-sized, once fired cases are Lake City, purchased pre-processed by a reputable company. Half of the PMC brass was shot by me, half by others. Full length resize, reamed, unified primer pockets, annealed but necks not trimmed to length.
-PMC is difficult to load, LC is easier but not a cake walk.
-The monolithic bullets I'm loading are the most difficult.

The die I used to size the PMC brass is a Series 1 Horady 308 WIN custom grade, full length die set, Item number 546358, on loan from the individual helping me to learn hand loading. He is very much a precision reloader and shoots bolt guns. I, on the other hand, have the need for a larger amount of ammo and I shoot out of a precision build AR15 and an off-the-shelf small frame AR10. So I'm not expecting a half MOA at 600 yards if you catch my drift although it'd be nice. Both are quite capable, more so than myself as a shooter.

The PMC brass neck tension is too high. Even though I did a full resize on all of them, it's much more difficult to seat the bullets, especially in the initial seating. The Lake City is far easier but initially was a bit on the difficult side. I experienced none of this with the .223 test rounds I loaded.

After more research, I decided to try dry lubing the PMC necks with RCBS dry lube powder. It helped a bit but was not perfect. Still leaving marks on my bullets. I then tried the same on the Lake City brass which yielded a bigger improvement and overall the LC stuff has been much easier to seat a bullet in. My next mod was to de-burr the mouth, inside and out, on the PMC even though they weren't trimmed and I couldn't feel anything on the lip. I also decided to lube the bullets with Hornady OneShot lube. Placed my needed 25 bullets in a bag, sprayed and agitated the bag making sure the bullets were covered. Pulled them out of the bag by the tip and carefully set them in a reloading tray for the volatiles to evaporate (dry out).

I did notice an improvement with the PMC but still not easy or mark-free by any means. The Lake City stuff was far, far easier and although I did have a ring around the bullet, it's barely visible and there are no physical indentations whatsoever at this point.

I obviously need to resize the necks on the PMC brass. I have, somewhere in the neighborhood of 850 primed. Now you feel my pain. I don't fully understand why the Hornady die is not sizing the necks correctly. This is a borrowed die and I know it's seen some use but I can't imagine that's the factor.

So now I'm looking at the Redding Type S "match" two die set since I'm sure, at some point, he'll want his die set back. The Redding set is quite a bit more expensive than other offerings but from what I've read, it prevents the bullet marring and I can purchase bushings with different diameters to size the necks correctly. But is it overkill from a cost/accuracy standpoint given my goals? Is there a less expensive offering which'll do what I need it to do? Any other pointers would be greatly appreciated even if they're just links to threads I might not have come across yet. I've spent more time than I realistically have researching and it's a deep, deep rabbit hole.

Photo of a bullet marred by seating process....
 
nothing is overkill when it comes to reloading! HA!

what is your neck tension?
what seating die are you using?
 
Ha! I definitely get that. Purchasing the items necessary as I go along and borrowing what I don't have.

Using the Hornady seating/crimping die, it's the custom grade set I mentioned earlier, comes with that and the full-length sizing die.

I do not know what my neck tension is honestly. It's not something I'd considered measuring in the past but now that you've brought it to my attention, I'll look into it!
 
Just to expound a bit more, initially I thought just maybe the die was trying to crimp before fully seating the bullet. I'm confident I'm adjusting everything correctly and when I go to find signs of an actual crimp, I don't see any. I'd say 3/4 of the bullets I'm experimenting with don't have collets and I do test to see if I can push the bullet into the casing further by hand (I can't so neck tension is HIGH, LOL). On some of the PMC brass, the neck shrinks just after the bullet's bottom seating depth. You can physically see/measure it's slightly less in diameter. Shaved a thin ring of brass off of some of the Hornady GMX rounds I loaded.

So now I'm at the point where, after reading the Redding material, I should be taking measurements of numerous rounds and averaging out my neck size for that casing and purchase a bushing of the appropriate size. Just curious as to why the necks are sized so small as I'm using standard bullets and a standard-sized resizing die.
 
Get an expanded mandrel and open up the case mouth. And stop wet tumbling.

Yep, I've read to stop wet tumbling AFTER spending $200 on a Lyman wet tumbler. I did wet tumble and clean the LC brass too however, and with a bit of lube, it'll load fine.

On the expanded mandrel...I'm trying to understand why a standard mandrel that comes with the die set doesn't work? Is it due to the wall thickness of the PMC brass?
 
Get an expanded mandrel and open up the case mouth. And stop wet tumbling.

+1
Why wet tumble and add the extra step of having to dry every case? The case does not have to look brand new. Corn cob media with a couple of caps of Nu-Finish will get you where you need to be.
I don't think crimping is necessary, but if you have to do it, do it in separate step.
Get rid of the expander ball in the die. Size as you normally would then use a .002" expander mandrel. That will give consistent neck tension.
Chamfer the case mouth inside and out. The case in the photo has not had it done. Also trim your brass to the SAAMI spec length. More brass on the neck will increase tension and that might be contributing to the indented rind around the bullet.
 
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Measure the outside neck diameter of a loaded round and then measure a sized round and subtract that number from the first number that will give you your neck tension value. It does look like you need a mandrel die to open the neck up to reduce the tension. Are you crimping these rounds?
 
Annealing leaves an abrasive oxide on the brass which increases friction when seating bullets. That’s your problem. There is no reason to anneal 1x fired brass.
 
I wet tumble and seem to have no issue.

I only wet tumble for 30 minutes, without media and use the frankford arsenal cleaning packs. It gets them clean but not "too clean" as far as the inside of necks go. I currently see no issue in this process (always subject to change)

Definitely get a mandrel.

Over time you can move to a honed die and really perfect your process.
You can read more on Mandrels and Honed dies here on the boards.

It's a process, and always evolving, the more we read here on the boards the more we learn, so the more the process changes.

On specifically you bullets being marked up, it seems like there could be a seating stem issue at play. There has been threads on that in the past too. Though you may not want to modify loaned dies.
 
+1
Why wet tumble and add the extra step of having to dry every case? The case does not have to look brand new. Corn cob media with a couple of caps of Nu-Finish will get you where you need to be.
I don't think crimping is necessary, but if you have to do it, do it in separate step.
Get rid of the expander ball in the die. Size as you normally would then use a .002" expander mandrel. That will give consistent neck tension.
Chamfer the case mouth inside and out. The case in the photo has not had it done. Also trim your brass to the SAAMI spec length. More brass on the neck will increase tension and that might be contributing to the indented rind around the bullet.

The extra step doesn't bother me too much honestly and it's easier to find my casings in the dirt after being shot. I did just purchase a brass catcher and will use that on my next outing.

10-4 on the rest. Yeah that's an early-on load where I did not chamfer the mouth. I did do this later on.

For bullets with no cannelure, I am not crimping. On bullets with, I've tried but I can't tell one way or the other with this die. I adjust it down until I meet resistance and then slowly adjust 1/16th but I cannot see the results in my brass.

For the expander mandrel, I'm looking at something like the Sinclair? https://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/reloading/expander-mandrels-and-neck-tension/
 
Wether a bullet does or does not have a cannelure doesn't matter. You don't have to seat to it. Go by OAL for your seating depth.
 
Measure the outside neck diameter of a loaded round and then measure a sized round and subtract that number from the first number that will give you your neck tension value. It does look like you need a mandrel die to open the neck up to reduce the tension. Are you crimping these rounds?

Using the above method the neck tension seems to be:
PMC= .004
LC= .003

Crimping the cannelure bullets only with a very light crimp. I think I'm testing seven different bullets and only two have cannelures.
 
Wether a bullet does or does not have a cannelure doesn't matter. You don't have to seat to it. Go by OAL for your seating depth.

That's what I've been doing. But I've also been going by the reload recommendation. All of the cannelure bullets are Hornady and I'm using their recommended length and charge to start and it ends up on the cannelure. I did measure my chamber but since it's an AR chassis, that number doesn't mean much for reloading. If I should just load to max OAL for the magazine, let me know. I can load up another test round. Most of the .308 rounds are at 2.800 except for the aforementioned cannelure bullets. I'm also referencing the Hodgson and Lyman reloading handbooks.
 
[QUOTE="Ape_Factory, post: 8853157, member: 155127"

For the expander mandrel, I'm looking at something like the Sinclair? https://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/reloading/expander-mandrels-and-neck-tension/

The century xxi (century 21) stuff is very popular, and more attractively priced than the Sinclair.
Many guys here use the tin coated mandrels from them.
[/QUOTE]

I'll take a peek at those. So the bottom line is, even if I were to get the Redding two-die match set, I'd still need to use a separate mandrel for best results? Because I'll eventually load a large quantity of range ammo, trying to limit the number of individual steps and save time. I think I unified 1600 .223 rounds and about 1200 .308 rounds. Thought I was going to loose my mind, LOL.
 
On specifically you bullets being marked up, it seems like there could be a seating stem issue at play. There has been threads on that in the past too. Though you may not want to modify loaned dies.

I did read up on lapping the seater and yeah, since it's not mine, I don't want to modify it. Threads seemed to indicate the Redding didn't do that for some unknown mechanical reason.

On the length of time, yeah I've been going substantially longer than 30 minutes in the tumbler. I'll try shortening that. Usually it's collect the used brass, wet tumble, anneal, rework the case (size, unify, all that stuff) wet tumble again, prime and load.

I know I'll need to go back and make sure the PMC brass is all the same length even though I'm not crimping. The LC brass has been trimmed and I've been measuring periodically and it's all good.
 
It all depends on what YOU want.

Can you make good ammo with the redding 2 die set? ABSOLUTELY.
Upon my back reading here on the forum, a trend occurs with the most knowledgeable folks on the boards.

Annealing every firing
Forster sizing dies that have been honed
The use of mandrels
Whatever seating die you want (forster micrometer is popular there too)

What press are you using?
 
It all depends on what YOU want.

Can you make good ammo with the redding 2 die set? ABSOLUTELY.
Upon my back reading here on the forum, a trend occurs with the most knowledgeable folks on the boards.

Annealing every firing
Forster sizing dies that have been honed
The use of mandrels
Whatever seating die you want (forster micrometer is popular there too)

What press are you using?

Using the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme which has been great. Started off with a Partner Press and it failed at the handle threads on first use so I went with a sturdier unit. The partner was obviously defective and they took it back no problem. My neighbor has the Partner and has had it for years with no issues.

I've been told to anneal every firing by the person teaching me. I know there isn't a general consensus on the internet but I think it's a manageable situation going forward, it was just getting over the hump of processing that many cases, one at a time by hand. I have a slick but non-automated annealing setup too and I understand what annealing does and the benefits, generally speaking, when it comes to metallurgy.

Ordering the Century 21 mandrels as we speak. Working the press isn't all that tedious so I don't think I'll mind. I will have to go back and do all the PMC brass again which is going to be a pain. It's primed already too so there's that.

We just measured the case thickness and the PMC .308 brass is thicker than the Lake City by a smidge. Interesting.

I'll look into the Forster sizing/seating dies. I thought the high end Redding stuff, which approaches $200 street price for two dies, was the pinnacle and the bushing system more accurate for resizing. But again, shooting out of an AR, do I need it? I know I don't want to go small base unless I have to.
 
Also of note, zero issues with .223 and the Hornady die set. I loaded eight different test batches without issue and no bullet marring. Washed and prepped the exact same way.
 
Also of note, zero issues with .223 and the Hornady die set. I loaded eight different test batches without issue and no bullet marring. Washed and prepped the exact same way.
The issue is likely brass thickeness. If you have brass that’s thicker the die is sizing it from the outside so you end up with more tension. I’d suggest getting the mandrel you think you need and also .001 above and below that. You’ll run into different brass eventually and need a different size.

On the dies- I have some lee dies and can load ammo just as accurate as with the $150 dies. As long as everything is set up right and your brass prep is good it will be fine. Some dies have features and options that you may want but for 1/2 MOA ammo you don’t have to do anything fancy or complicated. You just need to be in control of your neck tension and shoulder bump. I would advise against a seater that crimps but that’s just me. I’m sure guys use them with good results.

Brass thats been wet tumbled (and annealed especially) can cause friction on the bullet being seated. The dry lube isn’t fool proof and it’s not always going to help. I used to wet tumble but it’s just too much trouble and there’s no benefit at all except that it makes the brass pretty. Not to mention when you randomly find a case that’s wet inside while priming and then wonder how many other ones are wet. I used to amaze me how long moisture can stay inside a case.
 
Neck tension should be .001- .002. Your case necks are too small, they're probably so clean they are sticky and, you didn't neck chamfer. All factors that are going contribute to the problem here. On the photo it looks like you can see the indent from the seating stem near the tip(?). Definitely something wrong as seat dies should never do that. Double check your sizing die and verify its for a .308WIN. I'd use the expanding mandrel die to rescue your primed cases and I'd look at Forster die sets or even Lee. They'll both resize cases properly. And if you're going to crimp, which is a good idea generally and moreso for an auto loader, use the Lee collet die in a separate step after seating.
 
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Thanks Jumper. I have the expander mandrel on the way and I'm still researching dies. Seems like with the mandrel, I'll be able to get good results without spending $250 on a die set. It's definitely .308 as that's the first thing I checked. I looked up the P/N on the box and as others mentioned, it's a compound problem exasperated by brass thickness, tumbling and the things you mentioned. I did chamfer the later cartridges and with lubrication, seating was easier and I didn't deform the bullets with the seater die like the photo I posted.

I plan on removing the expander button and using the expander mandrel from here on out.

I'm also looking at the Hornady match set which also has bushings you can swap out like the Redding S series dies but at a substantially lower price.
 
Just to update the thread in case it helps others, I ended up with the Century 21 mandrels in the new black nitride coating for 223 and 308. A bit more expensive but far less friction.

I went cheap with the dies, Hornady Customs but added the micro-adjuster for the bullet seater. I can swap it in between both dies so that saves a good chunk of change purchasing two micro-adjust seater dies. I also went with the Redding crimp dies for both so it's turned into a bit more of a process for me. I will probably end up with a turret press at this point, LOL. And then a progressive and then whatever else is the next step up.

Surprisingly the Redding crimp dies seem to have the roughest threads. Not smooth at all where the others seem better cut and are more precise and easier to adjust once in the press.

I haven't reloaded any 308 yet but the 223 is perfect. Solved my neck tension issue and no more crushed cases. Very easy to seat the bullets now. I'm assuming I'll get the same with 308. No more marks on the bullets from the seating process either. I'm still using the same cases, wet tumbled, and it's not presenting an issue and I do not need to lube the bullets. I'll try some 308 today and report back.

Starting to hone in on a few loads although I have a chronograph issue so I have to wait for the new one to arrive to fully sort everything out. It never ends!

Really appreciate all the help and advice from everyone.

Edit: First small run of test loads in 308 went far, far easier. Almost no effort compared to my previous experience. Did my first larger batch of .223 for plinking and it went like butter. Got a really good feel for the crimping die too. Practice makes perfect!
 
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