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Reloading .308 steps

Scratchthejeepguy

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 27, 2013
214
0
WI
I've been reloading for a few years now, and have been getting about .5-.6 MOA with my R700, SPS, XLR, using 165g A-Max and 44.0g of Varget. I have a Dillon XL650 but use it for 5.56, and pistol calibers only. I use my single stage press for precision rifle.
It's been going great but I thought I'd explain my reloading process and see if I should be making any changes with anything. Here's my process, keep I mind my .308 brass never hits the ground:

1.shoot
2.anneal (every case)
3.spray lube
4.inspecting while depriming and full length resizing on the press
5.inspecting while chamfering and deburring
6.SS pin tumble and dry
7.prime all cases on the press
8.powder charge 20 at a time (shell holder capacity)
9.visual check for powder
10.seat bullet, (no crimp) measure for OAL every hundred or so
11.shoot and repeat


Questions:
I used to trim with the Lee hand trimmer, but recently got the WFT, I should be doing that after step number 4,correct?
And do I need to measure case length at all?

I'm still a little confused where the brass stretches. I thought it was at the base of the case, but we anneal at the neck so it must be there......?
 
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The entire case stretches, especially when full length resized. That's why you get thinning and eventually case head separations at the "back" near the head. My understanding is that the case "flows" towards the neck. For the WFT you will not be able to just neck size from my experience, in order for it to fit in the collet of the WFT, it will need to be FL sized.
 
Why do you size before cleaning? I think you should clean, then anneal, then size
 
Your order of operations might need to be adjusted. Annealing before cleaning will bake the carbon in your case neck. Consider depriming; cleaning in SS media; anneal; FL size then trim with the WTF and so on.
 
I am also noob - what are the issues if any of de-priming a dirty case ? (my goal here would be for maximum precision) (can I de-prime without a full resize then clean, lube and size ?)

Your order of operations might need to be adjusted. Annealing before cleaning will bake the carbon in your case neck. Consider depriming; cleaning in SS media; anneal; FL size then trim with the WTF and so on.
 
I am also noob - what are the issues if any of de-priming a dirty case ? (my goal here would be for maximum precision) (can I de-prime without a full resize then clean, lube and size ?)

For bolt gun rounds that only get neck sized with a collet die I use the following steps:

1) deprime with decapping die (cases can be dirty since decapping die does not touch the outside of case)
2) tumble
3) size (no lube or very little on neck)
4) trim if necessary
5) prime
6) charge
7) seat

The steps for gasser ammo are:

1) dry tumble
2) lube
3) resize and deprime
4) US clean and dry
5) trim if necessary
6) prime
7) charge
8) seat
9) factory crimp
 
How do I deprime without resizing? I don't want to have to adjust the deprimer each time. Am I going to have to buy another resize/deprime die or is there a die that just deprimes?


ETA: I didn't know there was a decapping die... So it doesn't touch the sides of the case at all, just pops out the primer huh..
Are they all the same, or any good suggestions?

So I got a decapping die, and did that after step "shoot", then continued on from there with my steps, would that be good?
 
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How do I deprime without resizing? I don't want to have to adjust the deprimer each time. Am I going to have to buy another resize/deprime die or is there a die that just deprimes?


ETA: I didn't know there was a decapping die... So it doesn't touch the sides of the case at all, just pops out the primer huh..
Are they all the same, or any good suggestions?

So I got a decapping die, and did that after step "shoot", then continued on from there with my steps, would that be good?

I think using a decapping die is the way to go. I had a Lee universal decapper, but 338LM wouldn't fit, so I replaced the die with both large and small Redding decapping dies. They all are pretty much the same, and if you can find one that fits all of your needs, go with it.

I don't think your steps are in the correct order. Here is my suggestion:

1. Decap
2. Tumble/dry
3. Anneal if needed
4. Size
5. Prime
6. Trim/chamfer/deburr
7. Powder
8. Seat

You can prime before you size if you want; I do it often. You just have to remove the decapping pin
 
I think using a decapping die is the way to go. I had a Lee universal decapper, but 338LM wouldn't fit, so I replaced the die with both large and small Redding decapping dies. They all are pretty much the same, and if you can find one that fits all of your needs, go with it.

I don't think your steps are in the correct order. Here is my suggestion:



1. Decap
2. Tumble/dry
3. Anneal if needed
4. Size
5. Prime
6. Trim/chamfer/deburr
7. Powder
8. Seat

You can prime before you size if you want; I do it often. You just have to remove the decapping pin

Why would you prime before trim/chamfer/deburr or sizing? I haven't been reloading long but wouldn't there be a chance of the shavings getting down in the flash hole to the primer?
 
Why would you prime before trim/chamfer/deburr or sizing? I haven't been reloading long but wouldn't there be a chance of the shavings getting down in the flash hole to the primer?

Well I use the Giraud, and the case is trimmed mouth down. And if shavings did fall in the case, who cares? Just empty them.
 
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Yall can do as ya want but I highly recommend against using SS Media to clean your precision rifle brass, the carbon inside the fired case neck is your friend.

Here is my process
1 clean in a tumbler with walnut media or by hand when I load at the range, nylon brush in then out of the neck
2 anneal, I got the machine so I use it
3 FL size with .001-.0015 bump
4 trim on the Giraud
5 clean primer pocket and inspect case
6 prime
7 charge from my Prometheus
8 seat each pill by Ojive length

I am completely confindent in my process and my loaded rounds, so when I miss, and I do a lot I know it's not my ammo and most likely me.
 
Yall can do as ya want but I highly recommend against using SS Media to clean your precision rifle brass, the carbon inside the fired case neck is your friend.

Really? That's the first I've heard of a bad thing about SS pin tumbling. I would think that with consistency being a big key in PRS, having absolutely no carbon in the neck, would be better than having a slow buildup over time of carbon deposits in there....
 
I have enough carbon inside my necks after ss tumbling if it makes any difference. 2 hour tumble each time gets brass clean. No advantage for me to tumble longer.