Re: Reloading for the M1A
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Santo</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Barney88PDC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well here is a second vote for the same load.
41.5 of IMR-4895
Win Brass
Win LR Primer
168 SMK
2.800 OAL
I have shot 1" groups with irons at 100 with my M1A NM. I do not have a scope or the mount to really see what it can do but it works well enough for me. </div></div>
3rd for the same load only difference is I use Lapua brass. </div></div>
FWIW, I have an M1A Supermatch and, to duplicate the military white box match loads, the one above will duplicate M852 ( with the 168gr SMK ).... funny thing is that if you want to duplicate the M118 white box match load, you use the same specs and load the 175gr SMK. One other thing.... that is with <span style="font-weight: bold">LAKE CITY BRASS</span>. It's thicker so, you will have to alter this if you're using other brass. If you're shooting an M1A, you're best off with Lake city, IMHO.
My recipe is:
175 or 168gr SMK
Lake City ( I have match brass but any lake city is the same except the primer pockets are not crimped and they're not annealed )
IMR 4895 but some substitute H4895... I use IMR
Win LR primers
OAL 2.82 ( works best in my own rifle )
Both loads shoot great in my M1A and they're safe with the op-rod.
I also run the OAL out to 2.82 and that really helps get the accuracy even better.
Be CAREFUL and do not use slow powder as it blooms late in the barrel and produces too much pressure for the op-rod and gets it moving too fast and can damage it.
One additional note, my supermatch is tighly headspaced and, I had to go to small base dies to get them to reliably feed in my rifle.... you really need a gauge to check the brass and make damned sure the brass goes all the way to the bottom of the gauge. FL dies worked but maybe 1 out of 10 would not eject until I went to small based dies.
