I have a ton of LC 5.56, 7.62 and 9mm mil brass. Everyone says military brass has the primer crimp on it but I'm not seeing what they are talking about. What exactly am I looking for? Sorry for the stupid question but I'm just getting into reloading since I'm finally stateside.
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Re: Reloading Military Brass
There is a "ring" around the primer cup of the case. You can also try priming one and you will see it's impossible to prime the case if it is crimped.
There is a "ring" around the primer cup of the case. You can also try priming one and you will see it's impossible to prime the case if it is crimped.
Re: Reloading Military Brass
A primer crimp is a small piece of the case that is swaged into place around the edge of the primer. If you try to place a primer in the pocket without removing the crimp, it will not go in or you will ruin a primer trying.
A primer crimp is a small piece of the case that is swaged into place around the edge of the primer. If you try to place a primer in the pocket without removing the crimp, it will not go in or you will ruin a primer trying.
Re: Reloading Military Brass
Will a Rock Chucker remove the spent primers or do I need to use something else?
Will a Rock Chucker remove the spent primers or do I need to use something else?
Re: Reloading Military Brass
I decap and resize military brass all the time just go ease on the upstroke and you shouldn't have a problem. You will either have to ream the crimp out or use one of the primer pocket swage tools on the market before moving on though.
I decap and resize military brass all the time just go ease on the upstroke and you shouldn't have a problem. You will either have to ream the crimp out or use one of the primer pocket swage tools on the market before moving on though.
Re: Reloading Military Brass
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 230grRN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I decap and resize military brass all the time just go ease on the upstroke and you shouldn't have a problem. You will either have to ream the crimp out or use one of the primer pocket swage tools on the market before moving on though. </div></div>
I have a super swage but it seems like it would take a ton of time doing them one by one. Is there a quicker tool to do it?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 230grRN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I decap and resize military brass all the time just go ease on the upstroke and you shouldn't have a problem. You will either have to ream the crimp out or use one of the primer pocket swage tools on the market before moving on though. </div></div>
I have a super swage but it seems like it would take a ton of time doing them one by one. Is there a quicker tool to do it?
Re: Reloading Military Brass
Is that the Dillon swage? If it is I borrow my buddy's when I get enough brass stacked up. It doesn't take very long to do a 1000 I know I did a least that many the last time in an hour or less and its one time thing and its done.
Is that the Dillon swage? If it is I borrow my buddy's when I get enough brass stacked up. It doesn't take very long to do a 1000 I know I did a least that many the last time in an hour or less and its one time thing and its done.
Re: Reloading Military Brass
Yes, your Rockchucker will be enough to decap crimped-in primers, but I would recommend that you get a separate decapping die from one of the die manufacturers. Yeah, it's an additional piece, but they are typically built sturdier than the decapper built into the standard reloading die. The good news is that one dedicated decap-only will work for most cartrige cases. They are not caliber-specific.
You will need to remove the remaining crimp material around the circumference of the primer pocket hole prior to any attempt to seat a new primer. Compare your decapped mil stuff to a decapped civilian case and you should be able to see the difference.
Several manufacturers offer crimp removal tools, RCBS being one of them - avoid this one at all cost !!! it is a real PITA to use. ANY of the others have got to be easier to use, but instead of trying them, I just quit using mil stuff with crimpped primers. Someone else may have some recommmendations, sorry, but I don't.
Paul
Yes, your Rockchucker will be enough to decap crimped-in primers, but I would recommend that you get a separate decapping die from one of the die manufacturers. Yeah, it's an additional piece, but they are typically built sturdier than the decapper built into the standard reloading die. The good news is that one dedicated decap-only will work for most cartrige cases. They are not caliber-specific.
You will need to remove the remaining crimp material around the circumference of the primer pocket hole prior to any attempt to seat a new primer. Compare your decapped mil stuff to a decapped civilian case and you should be able to see the difference.
Several manufacturers offer crimp removal tools, RCBS being one of them - avoid this one at all cost !!! it is a real PITA to use. ANY of the others have got to be easier to use, but instead of trying them, I just quit using mil stuff with crimpped primers. Someone else may have some recommmendations, sorry, but I don't.
Paul
Re: Reloading Military Brass
I've found that I've been able to get the brass to where I can seat primer's by using the RCBS primer pocket uniformer to open it up enough. It's a real pita and I'll probably just shy away from the brass with crimping in the future (had a bunch of hornady and black hills cases left). Still have to use the press to seat the primers in order to get enough leverage.
I'm sure this isn't ideal and probably wrong but after the first reload the primer's start to seat easier as long as you take it easy as stated in the post above. g/l
I've found that I've been able to get the brass to where I can seat primer's by using the RCBS primer pocket uniformer to open it up enough. It's a real pita and I'll probably just shy away from the brass with crimping in the future (had a bunch of hornady and black hills cases left). Still have to use the press to seat the primers in order to get enough leverage.
I'm sure this isn't ideal and probably wrong but after the first reload the primer's start to seat easier as long as you take it easy as stated in the post above. g/l
Re: Reloading Military Brass
I process a fair amount of 5.56 brass It takes a little more work that's for sure.
First step is to de-prime with a dedicated depriming die. I use the RCBS on my RockChucker II. Once the primer is knocked out I use a Lyman Pocket Uniformer as go no-go tool as well as to clean the primer pocket. As a go no-go tool it lets me know if that case needs to be further worked. If the uniformer tool fits, the brass goes into the 'A' pile, if not, it goes into the 'B' pile which is located next to my Dillon Swager.
Sometimes working the case in the swager is not a guarantee the new primer will fit. When I prime, I keep my primer pocket reamer and a de-burring tool handy as well.
A lot of guys won't work military brass because it's such a PITA. I pick up tons of it at a local Police range, so it's just part of my routine.
I process a fair amount of 5.56 brass It takes a little more work that's for sure.
First step is to de-prime with a dedicated depriming die. I use the RCBS on my RockChucker II. Once the primer is knocked out I use a Lyman Pocket Uniformer as go no-go tool as well as to clean the primer pocket. As a go no-go tool it lets me know if that case needs to be further worked. If the uniformer tool fits, the brass goes into the 'A' pile, if not, it goes into the 'B' pile which is located next to my Dillon Swager.
Sometimes working the case in the swager is not a guarantee the new primer will fit. When I prime, I keep my primer pocket reamer and a de-burring tool handy as well.
A lot of guys won't work military brass because it's such a PITA. I pick up tons of it at a local Police range, so it's just part of my routine.
Re: Reloading Military Brass
Aside from some of the higher end Dillon presses which automatically swage the primer pocket, the Dillon Super Swage is probably actually the quickest way to get it done.
I have the Super Swage, but usually stay away from military brass because of the swaged pockets. I still find them on some commercial brass, like PMC 7.62x39.
Greg
Aside from some of the higher end Dillon presses which automatically swage the primer pocket, the Dillon Super Swage is probably actually the quickest way to get it done.
I have the Super Swage, but usually stay away from military brass because of the swaged pockets. I still find them on some commercial brass, like PMC 7.62x39.
Greg
Re: Reloading Military Brass
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Aside from some of the higher end Dillon presses which automatically swage the primer pocket, the Dillon Super Swage is probably actually the quickest way to get it done.
I have the Super Swage, but usually stay away from military brass because of the swaged pockets. I still find them on some commercial brass, like PMC 7.62x39.
Greg </div></div>
I don't avoid Military brass. The crimped primers are a pain, but only the first time. Once swaged, and the Super Swage is the ONLY tool I'll ever use to do this, you never have to do it again until you have to break in some new brass. Most of the military brass I've come across seems to last forever with regular annealing cycles.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Aside from some of the higher end Dillon presses which automatically swage the primer pocket, the Dillon Super Swage is probably actually the quickest way to get it done.
I have the Super Swage, but usually stay away from military brass because of the swaged pockets. I still find them on some commercial brass, like PMC 7.62x39.
Greg </div></div>
I don't avoid Military brass. The crimped primers are a pain, but only the first time. Once swaged, and the Super Swage is the ONLY tool I'll ever use to do this, you never have to do it again until you have to break in some new brass. Most of the military brass I've come across seems to last forever with regular annealing cycles.
Re: Reloading Military Brass
I've squeezed out the crimp on several thousand 5.56 and 7.62X51 NATO cases using the RCBS crimp swage tool. I've found that the easiest way to make this work is to insert top top shaft into the case mouth, then slowly bring the ram up while seating the primer swage part of the tool into the primer pocket.
It's entirely possible that the Dillon tool would work faster, but I haven't invested the $100 or so to find out. Like was said earlier, once the pocket is swaged, it doesn't have to be done again.
I've squeezed out the crimp on several thousand 5.56 and 7.62X51 NATO cases using the RCBS crimp swage tool. I've found that the easiest way to make this work is to insert top top shaft into the case mouth, then slowly bring the ram up while seating the primer swage part of the tool into the primer pocket.
It's entirely possible that the Dillon tool would work faster, but I haven't invested the $100 or so to find out. Like was said earlier, once the pocket is swaged, it doesn't have to be done again.
Re: Reloading Military Brass
IF you are doing small amounts of mil-brass then a Lee neck tool will do the trick for de-swaging the primer pocket. Have used it for many years doing 7.62, 308 & 45 ACP brass. Some brass won't have any indicators. Some will have 3 swage (Pressed in marks) & others are just plain narrow than primer going in. You could chuck up a case neck trimmer & use a power tool but ... you gotta know what you are working with & my camera is AWOL !!
IF you are doing small amounts of mil-brass then a Lee neck tool will do the trick for de-swaging the primer pocket. Have used it for many years doing 7.62, 308 & 45 ACP brass. Some brass won't have any indicators. Some will have 3 swage (Pressed in marks) & others are just plain narrow than primer going in. You could chuck up a case neck trimmer & use a power tool but ... you gotta know what you are working with & my camera is AWOL !!
Re: Reloading Military Brass
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Werthless_one</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there a quicker tool to do it? </div></div>
1/4" drill bit, just bevel the primer pocket to remove crimp. Don't get a Dewalt with the pilot tip, just an ordinary bit.
Swagers do the job well but are a huge waste of money. For $35 I can buy hundreds of cases, why would I spend that or more to salvage cases that I probably spent nothing on? I'm cheap though. I'm one of those guys: more time than money, and not the inverse.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Werthless_one</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there a quicker tool to do it? </div></div>
1/4" drill bit, just bevel the primer pocket to remove crimp. Don't get a Dewalt with the pilot tip, just an ordinary bit.
Swagers do the job well but are a huge waste of money. For $35 I can buy hundreds of cases, why would I spend that or more to salvage cases that I probably spent nothing on? I'm cheap though. I'm one of those guys: more time than money, and not the inverse.
Re: Reloading Military Brass
I already have a dillon super swage I got from a buddy so I guess I will just put in the time to use it. Thanks for the info everyone.
I already have a dillon super swage I got from a buddy so I guess I will just put in the time to use it. Thanks for the info everyone.
Re: Reloading Military Brass
When you do, be sure it's adjusted as shallow as possible while still removing the crimp. It's possible to drive the swage too deep and distort the case.
Test the swage depth by attempting to seat a fired primer. Adjust the swage in until the primer seats without resistance from the crimp, and stop there.
Greg
When you do, be sure it's adjusted as shallow as possible while still removing the crimp. It's possible to drive the swage too deep and distort the case.
Test the swage depth by attempting to seat a fired primer. Adjust the swage in until the primer seats without resistance from the crimp, and stop there.
Greg
Re: Reloading Military Brass
my observations after dealing with about 8000 crimped .223:
the dillon swager opens the primer pocket a little more than the RCBS
so with the dillon, no need/benefit to primer pocket uniform after swaging - the downside - the pockets start out looser / fewer reloading cycles
after swaging FC (well established to be on the softer end) - with a RCBS system, and I expect it to be the same for dillon - a burr forms around the pocket - from the brass "flowing" when swaged - the burr loves to grab a side of the primer and results in deformed primers when pressed in
I do not encounter this with LC ( the other brass that is often found crimped)
so smooth priming of crimped FC requires grinding/ beveling whether or not you swage
my observations after dealing with about 8000 crimped .223:
the dillon swager opens the primer pocket a little more than the RCBS
so with the dillon, no need/benefit to primer pocket uniform after swaging - the downside - the pockets start out looser / fewer reloading cycles
after swaging FC (well established to be on the softer end) - with a RCBS system, and I expect it to be the same for dillon - a burr forms around the pocket - from the brass "flowing" when swaged - the burr loves to grab a side of the primer and results in deformed primers when pressed in
I do not encounter this with LC ( the other brass that is often found crimped)
so smooth priming of crimped FC requires grinding/ beveling whether or not you swage
Re: Reloading Military Brass
I rarely do more than 50 rounds at a time , so I use the deburr tool. Works OK, but my old arthritic hands start cramping before I get 50 done.
I rarely do more than 50 rounds at a time , so I use the deburr tool. Works OK, but my old arthritic hands start cramping before I get 50 done.
Re: Reloading Military Brass
I like to use the Lee Universal Decapper die. It has saved so many bent decapping "pins" I feel it has paid for itself in time savings alone...(I say that as I realize it adds another step to my reloading sequence.)
Also, be sure to setup your Dillon swager per instructions and sort the brass by make and maybe even years. Setting the rod too deep can bend it. (Ya, I found out the hard way. Thank heaven Dillon has super customer service! Saved me $15 for a replacement rod.)
I like to use the Lee Universal Decapper die. It has saved so many bent decapping "pins" I feel it has paid for itself in time savings alone...(I say that as I realize it adds another step to my reloading sequence.)
Also, be sure to setup your Dillon swager per instructions and sort the brass by make and maybe even years. Setting the rod too deep can bend it. (Ya, I found out the hard way. Thank heaven Dillon has super customer service! Saved me $15 for a replacement rod.)
Re: Reloading Military Brass
I bought universal decappers but never used them. So far I've broke one stem, not the pin. I had some media in the bottom of the case and bent the stem when I ran it in.
Almost all of my rifle brass military, mostly BHA.
I bought universal decappers but never used them. So far I've broke one stem, not the pin. I had some media in the bottom of the case and bent the stem when I ran it in.
Almost all of my rifle brass military, mostly BHA.
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