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Reloading process for an AR?

Shocktroop0351

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 4, 2008
42
0
SE Montana
Hi, I'm looking for information on what is needed to reload for an AR15? I've found a lot of stuff on reloading the .223/5.56 but nothing definitive on the AR. I've got a bushmaster with 16" barrel, 1/9" twist. I'm also looking for reliable loads that are safe for the gun for shooting coyotes out to 400 yards.

A couple questions:
-Do you need to crimp the bullet?

-Do polymer tipped bullets lose their tip in the feeding/chambering process, only to be found later in the gas system?

-What kind of seating die should I use? I have read that you need a "strait line seating die" to avoid the bullet getting jammed.

Thank you all once again for your time and knowledge.
 
Re: Reloading process for an AR?

As long as you are loading them to the correct overall length there should be no feed issues.
Don't see how the plastic tips would get in gas system even if laying loose in bore.
400 yards should be a easy shot if you have the right sight, zeros, ability etc.
I don't crimp anything. If you are planning on shooting bullets with cannelures chances are pretty good you won't get good accuracy.
By straight line seater are you talking L.E. Wilson.
Yep they are excellent. Then again seating in a standard seat die should work well for you. I am not aware of any seat die that will jam???? but then again are you working with a rotary loader? Even they should work good IF ADJUSTED PROPERLY.

Check the Sierra reloading handbook AR 15 section for good dope on loads. I am setting up for coyotes and will use 69 gr Sierras in my 16 twist Superior Barrels rig.
Make sure to use MILSPEC primers and not just small rifle primers.
 
Re: Reloading process for an AR?

I mainly reload for .223 (AR-15) and use the Rock Chucker RCBS single stage press with all RCBS and Redding equipment.

I never crimp my bullets and never had any problem and you will not lose any tips in reloading. Some guys and reloading books swear by crimping for semi-auto but you will notice if you ask anyone on here if they crimp, very few actually do and Im not one of them but do what YOU think is safe for you.

I would also say check the Sierra load book cuz they have data for the .223 in bolt action AND AR-15 data. Not that big of a difference between the two but there is.
 
Re: Reloading process for an AR?

You can't go over an OAL of 2.260 or else they won't fit in an AR mag. I'm having my own problems with this issue as it's been difficult to get consistent seating depth. I've read for cannelured bullets there is just about no decrease in accuracy and it may help fragmentation. I haven't personally tested accuracy between cannelured and standard though. The Lee factory crimp die is popular here if you do want to crimp.
 
Re: Reloading process for an AR?

I reload 223 in a single stage. I always full size and never crimp. None of the seating dies I tried, ever "jammed".
As for the tip coming off, I really have no idea, as the only time I used plastic-tip bullets, were on my bolt actions.
 
Re: Reloading process for an AR?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shocktroop0351</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do you need to crimp the bullet?
</div></div>

No.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shocktroop0351</div><div class="ubbcode-body">-Do polymer tipped bullets lose their tip in the feeding/chambering process, only to be found later in the gas system?
</div></div>

Sometimes, but that is due to a manufacturing defect moreso than the violence in feeding. I have encounrered plastic tips that are loose in the jacket from the getgo. They are likely to come off later.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shocktroop0351</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
-What kind of seating die should I use? I have read that you need a "strait line seating die" to avoid the bullet getting jammed.
</div></div>

Bullschpit! All seating dies for bottlenecked rifle rounds seat bullets just fine without ever jamming anything.
 
Re: Reloading process for an AR?

Hey guys, thank you all for your help on this. I guess I should clarify what I mean by "-What kind of seating die should I use? I have read that you need a "strait line seating die" to avoid the bullet getting jammed."

I'm under the impression, from what I've read and interpreted, is that if the bullet isn't seated precisely straight, a straightness requiring a special seating die (straight line seating die?) it can get "cockeyed" as it is being chambered and cause some sort of nasty jam. Basically all I need to know is if it is safe to use a regular seating die for the job? I'm not into high power competition or anything requiring sub sub-MOA. I'm hoping for something in the ball park of 1.5 MOA or better.

Also, is there any info you can point me to on what constitutes a mil-spec primer and who makes them? Thanks again for all your guys' help.
Thank you guys again for all your help.
 
Re: Reloading process for an AR?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Shocktroop0351</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Basically, all I need to know is if it is safe to use a regular seating die for the job? </div></div>
A standard die is perfectly capable of seating a bullet straight. What helps is initially having the bullet straight into the case mouth when the seating process is started. A sleeved die like a Forster or Redding Match keeps the bullet aligned. A long bevel on the inside of the case mouth, as can be achieved with a VLD chamfer tool, assists in allowing the bullet to be held straight by the case.

Some will seat the bullet in two or three steps, rotating the case. I can't feature why this would work unless it compensates for a canted seating plug, but many use the technique, apparently successfully.