Reloading Purchase List

[gnochi]

Hi all!

I poked around and didn’t find a single comprehensive list of everything that someone new to reloading needs, so I wanted to double check that I’m not missing anything, and that my optional-flagged items are correct.

Consumables:

• Brass
• Bullets
• Powder
• Primer
• Case lube

Durable Equipment:

• Loading guidebook/s
• Press
• Primer seater
• Sizing die
• Seating die
• Grain measurement (scale strongly preferred)
• Optional: powder trickler
• Optional: mandrel instead of expander bead, or neck tension bushing
• Optional: annealer
• Optional: case trimmer/deburrer
• Optional: case tumbler/ultrasonic cleaner
• Optional: primer pocket trimmer/deburrer

Thoughts/Questions/Concerns? Thanks!

 

[louu]

The red $4 Lee funnel, or if your an asshole that set from A419 that costs two hundred dollars

 

[Krob95]

I would not say case trimmer and chamfer/debur tool is optional. You can postpone the trimming for a couple firings, but you’ll want to definitely get a chamfer and debur tool right out the gate. I used a Lyman hand one for a long time and then stepped up to rcbs prep center and now have a giraud that does all three in one.

Primer pocket trim and debur is unnecessary but it’s your own prerogative if that’s a rabbit hole you want to go down.

If you plan on reloading military brass (lake city for example) a swager is needed for sure.

 

[Krob95]

The red $4 Lee funnel, or if your an asshole that set from A419 that costs two hundred dollars

It’s 100 for the area419 one lol the SAC is the extremely expensive one

 

[hafejd30]

I’d add a caliper and hornady comparator and OAL tool

For sure want a caliper though

May as well buy a bullet puller (I use the hammer style) and a RCBS stuck case remover. It will save you headaches down the road.

 

[bobkhan]

Thanks for making this thread. I’ll be keeping an eye on it as I build my reloading set up.

 

[lyman]

type of rifle? as in used for what?

hunting?
PRS?
Service Rifle?

all of the above or none?


each has a different need re reloading

a PRS or Palma type will use a different setup than a hunter

FWIW, from my experience as a SR shooter in the past

Forster Co Ax press, there are none better,
Forster BR dies, (personal preference)

Redding powder measure for ball types,
get a trickler or one of the newer scale\loader electronic types for long grain stuff

I bought the RCBS and scale (first gen, scale and measure were seperate) and it is Ssssssslllllooooooooooowwwwww)
I used to park the wife in front of it for my 3006 loads (4064) while I loaded 556 on the other table


Giraud or Gracey case trimmer , if you want to do volume case trimming,
the dillon mounted one works fine, but you have to do an extra step on chamfering the case necks, and it is louder, esp if you use the vacuum attachment,

I use the RCBS bench mounted primer system, uses the primer tubes that Dillon and most other presses us, some folks swear by the Lee or RCBS hand primers

I have a dedicated bench for the reloaders, and I prefer to load standing up, so I bought the stand for the 550, and made one for the Co Ax, makes like easier,

if you use a dillon, get the roller arm, it is much more comfortable,
I took the old ball arm from my 550 and modified it to extend my Co Ax a bit made it more comfortable too,

 

[Maurygold]

Press (RCBS rock chucker)
Primer seater (frankford arsenal)
Sizing die
Seating die
Grain measurement (chargemaster lite)
case trimmer/deburrer (hornady)
case tumbler/ultrasonic cleaner (hornady ultrasonic)
Funnel (mkm machining kit)
Loading trays (frankford arsenal)
Digital calipers
Bullet pulling die (trust me)

Things you don’t actually need:
Loading guidebook/s (youtube and hodgdon reloading.Com Are better)
Optional: mandrel instead of expander bead, or neck tension bushing (buy good dies and you don’t need Mandrels)
Optional: annealer (nice but not necessary)
Optional: primer pocket trimmer/deburrer (Never buy this just buy quality brass)

 

[lyman]

Press (RCBS rock chucker)
Primer seater (frankford arsenal)
Sizing die
Seating die
Grain measurement (chargemaster lite)
case trimmer/deburrer (hornady)
case tumbler/ultrasonic cleaner (hornady ultrasonic)
Funnel (mkm machining kit)
Loading trays (frankford arsenal)
Digital calipers
Bullet pulling die (trust me)

Things you don’t actually need:
Loading guidebook/s (youtube and hodgdon reloading.Com Are better)
Optional: mandrel instead of expander bead, or neck tension bushing (buy good dies and you don’t need Mandrels)
Optional: annealer (nice but not necessary)
Optional: primer pocket trimmer/deburrer (Never buy this just buy quality brass)

respectfully disagree on the loading guidebooks,

I have a stack of them Sierra, Lyman, Ideal, Speer etc,

it is good to have some references you can grab now (but then again, I like books) and look see,

+ the older books are good for obsolete calibers, reduced loads etc,

 

[gnochi]

type of rifle? as in used for what?

hunting?
PRS?
Service Rifle?

all of the above or none?


each has a different need re reloading

a PRS or Palma type will use a different setup than a hunter

FWIW, from my experience as a SR shooter in the past

Forster Co Ax press, there are none better,
Forster BR dies, (personal preference)

Redding powder measure for ball types,
get a trickler or one of the newer scale\loader electronic types for long grain stuff

I bought the RCBS and scale (first gen, scale and measure were seperate) and it is Ssssssslllllooooooooooowwwwww)
I used to park the wife in front of it for my 3006 loads (4064) while I loaded 556 on the other table


Giraud or Gracey case trimmer , if you want to do volume case trimming,
the dillon mounted one works fine, but you have to do an extra step on chamfering the case necks, and it is louder, esp if you use the vacuum attachment,

I use the RCBS bench mounted primer system, uses the primer tubes that Dillon and most other presses us, some folks swear by the Lee or RCBS hand primers

I have a dedicated bench for the reloaders, and I prefer to load standing up, so I bought the stand for the 550, and made one for the Co Ax, makes like easier,

if you use a dillon, get the roller arm, it is much more comfortable,
I took the old ball arm from my 550 and modified it to extend my Co Ax a bit made it more comfortable too,

Thanks everyone for the advice!

Here’s what I plan to reload, which is basically everything but service rifle, but I don’t need benchrest-grade extreme perfection.

• 300 WM, bench steel
  • 160rd left of Prime, which will last a while
  • Want to try high-BC coppers loaded long
• 6.5 CM, mixed use hunting/bench steel/PRS
  • Use a ton and running low
  • Also want to try high-BC coppers
• 30-30, hunting
  • Ammo availability sucks
• 7 PRC, hunting
  • Want to try high-BC coppers loaded long
• 338-06 A2, hunting
  • No ammo availability, don’t trust the reloads that came with the gun
• 44mag single shot, bench steel
  • I have a T/C Contender, so am actually able to use pointy bullets.

 

[Hunt]

I bought the reloading manuals first (Lyman was a good one) and learned a lot from reading it. The advice provided above is spot on.

You'll find over time that your time is money and to reload more and quicker, it will become more expensive. An example of that for me was a Giraud trimmer. For me, trimming brass was one of the slowest chores that makes a mess. The Giraud trimmer took care of that quickly.

 

[ChrisGarrett]

Dillon 550c.

With your cartridge choices, you don't seem to be cranking out massive amounts for any cartridge?

A Lee cast iron press might be another option for less cash, but it's only a single stage.

How much that you will be reloading, is the issue.

Chris

 

[Maurygold]

The red $4 Lee funnel, or if your an asshole that set from A419 that costs two hundred dollars

It is really nice tho

 

[Im2bent]

The red $4 Lee funnel, or if your an asshole that set from A419 that costs two hundred dollars

I'm a poors and I bought this set. It simply works. Zero static.

 

[alamo5000]

respectfully disagree on the loading guidebooks,

I have a stack of them Sierra, Lyman, Ideal, Speer etc,

it is good to have some references you can grab now (but then again, I like books) and look see,

+ the older books are good for obsolete calibers, reduced loads etc,

On another note, even if he doesn't read any of them they make for good decorations and will make it appear that the OP knows what he's doing.

 

[gnochi]

Oh yeah, forgot to mention. I’m using a co-ax I ordered back in 2020 as a doorstop; it arrived right before I started a home renovation.

 

[alamo5000]

Thoughts/Questions/Concerns? Thanks!

On more serious note, as others have stated, what you are reloading will help dictate the equipment.

"Reloading" has a lot of nuance to it. Yes, "a press" will allow you to reload a ton of things. It however might not be optimal.

For example if someone wants to shoot a ton of 9mm the stuff that is "mandatory" will be different than someone who shoots benchrest.

A lot of the time it's not even about "mandatory" but rather how to make ammo 'good enough' in the most efficient way possible.

Don't get me wrong, I like the premise of your thread. That said, a whole lot of people have spent a whole lot of money (and time) honing their process for what they do.

No two people are going to do it the exact same way. There is a lot that goes into those decisions.

Instead of trying to just make a list, try walking through YOUR process and see what makes sense to invest in.

For example in previous years I was loading a bunch of one fired military brass. At first I thought I could get by just trimming out the crimps. That idea was quickly dashed and for that swaging process a swaging tool is absolutely mandatory in my opinion. I tried doing it without the right tools and it took forever and my hands were sore for a week.

The real benefit of having a forum like this is that you can find a lot of people that are doing exactly what you want to do, only they might be a few decades ahead of you in the process.

In other words you are kind of being way too general. Pick someone and try to mimic what they are doing. If a certain part of their process doesn't fit you, don't be scared to try something else in its place.

And don't think for a minute that any of this is a once and done thing. Me reloading today vs me reloading 10 years ago looks completely different. I've changed my processes up in the quest for efficiency and effectiveness.

If you ask the right questions you can skip a lot of the whole trial and error thing. You won't skip it entirely but you can skip parts of it which will fast track you.

That being said, don't buy expensive stuff just because it's expensive. However if you can invest in a good but more expensive tool that will say cut your processing time by 20% then by all means spend the money. That said a $100 funnel will not add a bunch of efficiency to your process.

Basically though you should get rid of the idea that once you buy some stuff then you are 'done'. No no. You are just getting started. Just get ready for it now. Sooner or later if you stick around you will be buying more equipment as you learn more and/or develop new interests.

 

[gnochi]

On more serious note, as others have stated, what you are reloading will help dictate the equipment.

"Reloading" has a lot of nuance to it. Yes, "a press" will allow you to reload a ton of things. It however might not be optimal.

For example if someone wants to shoot a ton of 9mm the stuff that is "mandatory" will be different than someone who shoots benchrest.

A lot of the time it's not even about "mandatory" but rather how to make ammo 'good enough' in the most efficient way possible.

Don't get me wrong, I like the premise of your thread. That said, a whole lot of people have spent a whole lot of money (and time) honing their process for what they do.

No two people are going to do it the exact same way. There is a lot that goes into those decisions.

Instead of trying to just make a list, try walking through YOUR process and see what makes sense to invest in.

For example in previous years I was loading a bunch of one fired military brass. At first I thought I could get by just trimming out the crimps. That idea was quickly dashed and for that a swaging process a swaging tool is absolutely mandatory in my opinion. I tried doing it without the right tools and it took forever and my hands were sore for a week.

The real benefit of having a forum like this is that you can find a lot of people that are doing exactly what you want to do, only they might be a few decades ahead of you in the process.

In other words you are kind of being way too general. Pick someone and try to mimic what they are doing. If a certain part of their process doesn't fit you, don't be scared to try something else in its place.

And don't think for a minute that any of this is a once and done thing. Me reloading today vs me reloading 10 years ago looks completely different. I've changed my processes up in the quest for efficiency and effectiveness.

If you ask the right questions you can skip a lot of the whole trial and error thing. You won't skip it entirely but you can skip parts of it which will fast track you.

That being said, don't buy expensive stuff just because it's expensive. However if you can invest in a good but more expensive tool that will say cut your processing time by 20% then by all means spend the money. That said a $100 funnel will not add a bunch of efficiency to your process.

Basically though you should get rid of the idea that once you buy some stuff then you are 'done'. No no. You are just getting started. Just get ready for it now. Sooner or later if you stick around you will be buying more equipment as you learn more and/or develop new interests.

Thank you for the detail here, that is super helpful context. It seems the main reloading styles are “save every penny” and “chase every .01moa”, and neither of those really fit me.

I’m most interested in shooting the bullets I want from the guns I have (and might get in the future), at an every-few-weeks range day or on a hunting trip.

• As a rule that will be high BC copper solids with good terminal ballistics, loaded to magazine length (or the bullet base being at the neck/shoulder junction, whichever is shorter).
• I’d like the ammo to be consistent.
• I’m not interested in chasing perfection with seating depth, neck tension, etc. - unless something really doesn’t work.
• If it’s feasible, I’d like the only variable I really play with to be powder charge.
• While I can get custom ammo, the prices are high enough and I shoot enough that it’s worth buying reloading equipment.
• I’m not particularly concerned with brass longevity as anything more than convenience with current supply chains.
• I’d rather have the right tool than the faster tool, and I’d rather have the faster tool than the cheaper tool.

So, with that in mind, does this list sound generally reasonable as a capable starting point for the first few reloading sessions?

• Co-Ax (I have it, and it’ll do primers and dies)
  • …dare I ask whether a specific priming tool is worth it?
• Autotrickler V4 + FX120i
• Full-length resizing die (Probably Forster or Redding, depending on availability)
• Seating die with VLD-compatible stem (Probably Forster or Redding, as above)
• Funnel set and case holder (Probably MKM, I’ve been happy with a bunch of their stuff)
• Bullet puller hammer
• Ultrasonic cleaner (2.5L from harbor freight)
• Giraud trimmer
• Mitutoyo calipers (have ‘em for work)
• Hornady comparator and OAL tool
• Decapping die
• Imperial die sizing wax
• Imperial neck lube

 

[Maurygold]

Thank you for the detail here, that is super helpful context. It seems the main reloading styles are “save every penny” and “chase every .01moa”, and neither of those really fit me.

I’m most interested in shooting the bullets I want from the guns I have (and might get in the future), at an every-few-weeks range day or on a hunting trip.

• As a rule that will be high BC copper solids with good terminal ballistics, loaded to magazine length (or the bullet base being at the neck/shoulder junction, whichever is shorter).
• I’d like the ammo to be consistent.
• I’m not interested in chasing perfection with seating depth, neck tension, etc. - unless something really doesn’t work.
• If it’s feasible, I’d like the only variable I really play with to be powder charge.
• While I can get custom ammo, the prices are high enough and I shoot enough that it’s worth buying reloading equipment.
• I’m not particularly concerned with brass longevity as anything more than convenience with current supply chains.
• I’d rather have the right tool than the faster tool, and I’d rather have the faster tool than the cheaper tool.

So, with that in mind, does this list sound generally reasonable as a capable starting point for the first few reloading sessions?

• Co-Ax (I have it, and it’ll do primers and dies)
  • …dare I ask whether a specific priming tool is worth it?
• Autotrickler V4 + FX120i
• Full-length resizing die (Probably Forster or Redding, depending on availability)
• Seating die with VLD-compatible stem (Probably Forster or Redding, as above)
• Funnel set and case holder (Probably MKM, I’ve been happy with a bunch of their stuff)
• Bullet puller hammer
• Ultrasonic cleaner (2.5L from harbor freight)
• Giraud trimmer
• Mitutoyo calipers (have ‘em for work)
• Hornady comparator and OAL tool
• Decapping die
• Imperial die sizing wax
• Imperial neck lube

Don't get that bullet-pulling hammer it is terrible. Get the RCBS collet die
Ultrasonic Cleaner (boretech is the best)
Sizing Wax (hornady spray)
Neck Lube (alpha munitions)
Die Lock Rings (this is the biggest headache saver buy the hornady ones with Allen lock and flat sides or you will forever be upset, also use these on the Giraud pilots)
Stuck Case Puller (you may also want one of these I have had to use it a handful of times in learning to reload

Also checkout whidden dies The forester are also very good.

 

[ZombieMonkey]

The red $4 Lee funnel, or if your an asshole that set from A419 that costs two hundred dollars

But they really are really nice...

 

[tacos3]

Don't watch any of Eric Cortina's Youtube videos as you will WANT to drop tons of cash watching him use all his high end gear. All his gear is top shelf. However I did buy 2 of his tuner brakes which are awesome…

Actually, his track record and experience in F-class is world class. His process(ignore the gear) is great. He knows what is important and what isn’t. Aside from is reloading room(gear envy) his knowledge is amazing and worth a watch.

 

[MTRecon]

I didn't see anyone mention case gauges.

 

[JerkyFreak]

Probably because if you do things right you don't need case gauges.

 

[acudaowner]

not that my opinion matters but I really did not like that frankford arsonal hand primer I crushed 3 primers and still have not gotten it set the cheaper hand primers are cheap pot metal and could break really easily but keep 2 around and when one goes your set to keep priming or use the press primer if your press has that available . for de priming I really am loving Harvey de primer it does large or small primers as it comes to you
https://harveydeprimer.com/
and a 1/2 decent primer pocket cleaner at the range while I am giving my barrel a chance to cool down
best of luck with what ever you get .

 

[Bacarrat]

It’s 100 for the area419 one lol the SAC is the extremely expensive one

After getting in the SAC in today, I would say it's worth it. The inserts can be also used on your head space gauge tool as well so it's doing double duty for that. While the Area419 Kit is nice, you can't dump big kernel powder in them without having to slowly trickle them in. The SAC with the Modular Headspace Inserts will sit on the case better as well. Also got the organizer try as well. There is 0 movement with the bullet or headspace inserts in the tray. The Area419 kit flops around the the funnel falls out all the time if you touch it.

 

[TSULLI]

I am sure that everyone already knows this but unless I skipped over it being mentioned somewhere, I will add it…

A dedicated journal or notebook is my #1 most useful tool. Anyone can spend some money and load some ammo, but keeping clear documentation of what works and what doesn’t along with the hundred different things that go along with making successful shots and developing ones own skills as a shooter and a reloader, makes just as much if not more difference than most of the other tools on your bench.

To get consistency, you have to give consistency. To get precision, you have to give precision. For me, that starts, stops, and starts again with my journal.

 

[Islas82]

A good set of calipers.