- Thread starter Ding61
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I started with the RCBS kit. Still run my rockchucker press, 1500 scale combo, case prep station and primer. Rcbs has been a good solid choice for over 15 years for me.
The reloading rabbit hole is deep. Buying off the px here can lessen the fall into it
Good luck
The reloading rabbit hole is deep. Buying off the px here can lessen the fall into it
Good luck
I've reloaded thousands and thousands of damn-precise rounds on an old Rock Chucker Supreme IV and regular old RCBS and Redding dies. I still use RCBS and Redding dies, but this year finally upgraded the press to the new Area 419 ZERO. It's worth the money to splurge on that press. The precision and tight clearances on that press are amazing. If you can swing that much for the press alone, do it.
www.midwayusa.com
As for powder measures, get an RCBS Chargemaster Supreme.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1024348416?pid=316796
That's 2 huge parts of your reloading covered.
The next parts would be smaller items like dies, shell holders, calipers, comparators, etc...
Here's my recommendations... Not sure what cartridge you'll be loading for, so you'll have to adjust the selectors on the website to the proper cartridge when you research.
www.midwayusa.com 
www.midwayusa.com 
www.midwayusa.com 
www.midwayusa.com 
www.midwayusa.com 
www.midwayusa.com 
www.midwayusa.com 
www.midwayusa.com 
www.midwayusa.com 
www.midwayusa.com
And all that should be a damn good start.
Area 419 Zero Reloading Press 7/8 Turret Head
The Area 419 Zero Press is milled from all-American billet aluminum and stainless steel. This press moves with the help of 14 bearings, including a...
www.midwayusa.com As for powder measures, get an RCBS Chargemaster Supreme.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1024348416?pid=316796
That's 2 huge parts of your reloading covered.
The next parts would be smaller items like dies, shell holders, calipers, comparators, etc...
Here's my recommendations... Not sure what cartridge you'll be loading for, so you'll have to adjust the selectors on the website to the proper cartridge when you research.
Redding Master Hunter Deluxe 3-Die Set 7mm-08 Remington
Redding Master Hunter die sets were developed after the success of the National Match die sets. Featuring the micrometer adjustable Competition Seating...
www.midwayusa.com Redding Premium Series Deluxe 3-Die Set 7mm-08 Remington
Redding Reloading Equipment has focused on building the finest quality, American Made products for the precision handloading market since 1946. Redding...
www.midwayusa.com Redding Shell Holder #1 (308 Winchester, 30-06 Springfield, 45 ACP)
Redding quality steel shellholders firmly hold a case in place for all reloading operations. Redding shellholders fit most single stage and turret...
www.midwayusa.com Starrett 799 Digital Caliper 6 SS
This 6" precision caliper features easy-to-read numbers, long wearing carbide faces and a hardened stainless steel body for a lifetime of service....
www.midwayusa.com Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator Complete Set 14 Inserts
The Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator is perfect for the reloader looking to quickly and precisely measure seating depth of loaded ammunition from...
www.midwayusa.com Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator Anvil Base Kit
The Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator Anvil Base Kit is perfect for the reloader looking to take accurate measurements of reloaded ammunition. When...
www.midwayusa.com Hornady Lock-N-Load Overall Length Ga Bolt Action
The Hornady Lock-N-Load Overall Length Gauge is one of the best kept secrets to accurate reloading. This tool allows reloaders to quickly and easily...
www.midwayusa.com Hornady Lock-N-Load Overall Length Ga Modified Case 6.5 Creedmoor
Hornady has been making quality reloading equipment and components for over sixty years. The Lock-N-Load Overall Length Gauge Modified Cases are no...
www.midwayusa.com RCBS Chamfer Deburring Tool 17 to 60 Cal
The RCBS Chamfer and Deburring tool quickly and easily chamfers and deburrs case mouths. Just insert the pointed end into the case mouth and with a few...
www.midwayusa.com L.E. Wilson Micrometer Case Trimmer Kit SS Titanium Nitride Coated
The L.E. Wilson Stainless Steel Case Trimmer with micrometer is unique in that it supports the case body through the trimming operation using holders...
www.midwayusa.com And all that should be a damn good start.
What's important is quality dies, quality brass and a very good and accurate scale. When buying quality brass (e.g. Lapua) or other that might seem a little pricey, you can extend their life substantially, which will offset their cost, by learning the in's and out's of annealing them . . . particularly when firing them in a factory barrel/rifle.
It's tough to keep the cost down as you might strive to get as much accuracy as possible. That's what can drive you down the deep rabbit hole. Been there, done that!
When I retired and stared reloading, I had the idea I might save money doing my own reloading. But . . . as it turns out, I probably fire 3 times as many rounds as I might have when just buying the ammo. Though, I do get much, much better accuracy out of my precision reloads. Good Luck. It's a fun hobby to have in retirement.
Unfortunately, its not really any cheaper to load your own ammo now like it was circa 1995.
The only way you'll come out ahead is if you go as cheap as possible on your equipment, and even then you'll be hard pressed to come out cheaper than factory ammo unless you plan on shooting a significantly high amount of rounds ever year.
Not discouraging making your own ammo at all. Just realize that saving money isn't really as big a reason as it used to be.
The only way you'll come out ahead is if you go as cheap as possible on your equipment, and even then you'll be hard pressed to come out cheaper than factory ammo unless you plan on shooting a significantly high amount of rounds ever year.
Not discouraging making your own ammo at all. Just realize that saving money isn't really as big a reason as it used to be.
Saving money isn't really going to happen. How much do you plan on shooting per year? Can you get components? What Caliber?
Back in 2009 I was finally able to begin shooting and reloading. I spent over $700 dollars on reloading equipment back then and that wasn't the end of it. Now years later I'm still not sure the cost has been recovered. Elite shooters have thousands of $$$ invested in reloading equipment. You reload to get accurate ammunition that is better than commercially available. It can become an enjoyable past time or burden. There is also a learning curve so if possible you should try and find a mentor.
As to your original question, you will receive all sorts of recommendations, and most of it will be good but also slanted in a particular direction by the poster's preference and experience. For instance, you will have to decide on Full Length Sizing or neck sizing of your brass, standard or bushing dies, neck sizing only? If you stay with quality manufacturers you will usually be OK. You didn't mention what rifle or cartridge you will be shooting or what you deemed to be long range. To some extent that can affect what equipment you might need.
If you haven't already done so, borrow or buy one of the reloading manuals from one of the major bullet manufacturers like Hornady (my preference for reloading info but not load data) or Nosler.
As to your original question, you will receive all sorts of recommendations, and most of it will be good but also slanted in a particular direction by the poster's preference and experience. For instance, you will have to decide on Full Length Sizing or neck sizing of your brass, standard or bushing dies, neck sizing only? If you stay with quality manufacturers you will usually be OK. You didn't mention what rifle or cartridge you will be shooting or what you deemed to be long range. To some extent that can affect what equipment you might need.
If you haven't already done so, borrow or buy one of the reloading manuals from one of the major bullet manufacturers like Hornady (my preference for reloading info but not load data) or Nosler.
You can save money, if you shoot a lot. If a case of 6.5CM ELDmatch is $389, or $1.95 each, while conservatively, brass is $1 and you get 8 loadings (.125), primer (.14), 41gn of powder from a 1# jug (.33), and a match bullet (.60), and a sale hornady kit and lee dies, you see a cost savings after about 465 rounds loaded (or, 2.325 cases of match ammo). How much do you shoot a year?
All assuming your time is worth zero.
Better tools save time. Sometimes, they make better ammo. Add in an autotrickler and scale (often considered requisite to long range ammo) and you push your break even to something like 1750 rounds (8.7 cases). YMMV.
All assuming your time is worth zero.
Better tools save time. Sometimes, they make better ammo. Add in an autotrickler and scale (often considered requisite to long range ammo) and you push your break even to something like 1750 rounds (8.7 cases). YMMV.
If you’re going to reload don’t do it to save $$. You need to do it as a hobby.
Look at it as an initial investment of supplies that allow you to tune a gun in to be as accurate as possible. Then convince yourself every round fired after initial investment is X amount cheaper than that round in factory ammo
Very few factory loads can achieve handloaded accuracy. Especially for long range. Any discipline like fclass or benchrest will be reloading across the board for this reason alone
So if you’re comparing $$ make sure you’re comparing it to stuff like FGMM ammo or similar which tends to shoot good and close to what most beginner reloaders can achieve.
So make sure you compare cost of round vs intention of use with factory ammo.
Example: Most accurate and long range use should be compared to FGMM or similar
Just using for whitetail hunting and 300 yard shots then compare prices to factory stuff like Hornady precision ammo on high end or American Whitetail or whatever the lower stuff is. Because cost per round between hunting/plinking ammo vs match factory ammo varies a decent amount. If the chosen ammo even shoots good in your rifle
If you run something like a 308. Factor in the cost of 1 primer, about 250 shots or so from a 1lbs jug of powder, price of 1 bullet…..but then factor in something like Lapua brass but figure in getting 5, 10, 20 reloads from that brass. Especially if you anneal and don’t push the envelope on pressure
People always total up the “cost per round” it seems by including brass prices like they plan to shoot it once and toss it. Not factoring in that the $1 a piece for Lapua brass is actually more like $.10 a piece in something like a 308
If you’re looking at getting into this as a retirement gig it will likely become a passion and hobby. But depending what you shoot you may or may not make the $$ back.
I bought my 338 LM stuff mostly from px here. I reloading for a fraction of what the factory ammo in same configuration would have been at the time at $4 a round. So again depending what you reload and amount you shoot will depend if you save anything in the end
I reload for precision. So I don’t reload for my AR 556, pistols or shotguns. I choose to buy factory for those as I don’t shoot them nearly as much as the rifles
Look at it as an initial investment of supplies that allow you to tune a gun in to be as accurate as possible. Then convince yourself every round fired after initial investment is X amount cheaper than that round in factory ammo
Very few factory loads can achieve handloaded accuracy. Especially for long range. Any discipline like fclass or benchrest will be reloading across the board for this reason alone
So if you’re comparing $$ make sure you’re comparing it to stuff like FGMM ammo or similar which tends to shoot good and close to what most beginner reloaders can achieve.
So make sure you compare cost of round vs intention of use with factory ammo.
Example: Most accurate and long range use should be compared to FGMM or similar
Just using for whitetail hunting and 300 yard shots then compare prices to factory stuff like Hornady precision ammo on high end or American Whitetail or whatever the lower stuff is. Because cost per round between hunting/plinking ammo vs match factory ammo varies a decent amount. If the chosen ammo even shoots good in your rifle
If you run something like a 308. Factor in the cost of 1 primer, about 250 shots or so from a 1lbs jug of powder, price of 1 bullet…..but then factor in something like Lapua brass but figure in getting 5, 10, 20 reloads from that brass. Especially if you anneal and don’t push the envelope on pressure
People always total up the “cost per round” it seems by including brass prices like they plan to shoot it once and toss it. Not factoring in that the $1 a piece for Lapua brass is actually more like $.10 a piece in something like a 308
If you’re looking at getting into this as a retirement gig it will likely become a passion and hobby. But depending what you shoot you may or may not make the $$ back.
I bought my 338 LM stuff mostly from px here. I reloading for a fraction of what the factory ammo in same configuration would have been at the time at $4 a round. So again depending what you reload and amount you shoot will depend if you save anything in the end
I reload for precision. So I don’t reload for my AR 556, pistols or shotguns. I choose to buy factory for those as I don’t shoot them nearly as much as the rifles
You could "save" money by reloading. But in time you are going to spend money on better reloading equipment. All my reloaded ammo is under half of what you would spend on factory ammo. And it's tuned to the gun.
In trying to figure the cost per round for reloading, there's a simple reloading phone app for that called Reloading Assistant (see pic below). Of course, it doesn't take into account the cost for the equipment, which can be an on going thing (that rabbit hole, yah know). Gotta keep in mind too there's another consumable expense that's often overlooked . . . the rifle barrel!
I shoot about 2500 - 3000 rounds a year that I reload. When I first started reloading, I though my cost for equipment would be ~$1200 and was looking forward to the break even point. Looking at the price of ammo today (especially for the like of a 6.5 PRC), I'm sure I've passed that break even point, even though I have gone down that rabbit hole and spent about twice that on reloading equipment.
I shoot about 2500 - 3000 rounds a year that I reload. When I first started reloading, I though my cost for equipment would be ~$1200 and was looking forward to the break even point. Looking at the price of ammo today (especially for the like of a 6.5 PRC), I'm sure I've passed that break even point, even though I have gone down that rabbit hole and spent about twice that on reloading equipment.
Going with a 6.5 Creedmoor
Thanks to everyone for all of the info, it's a lot to take in and think about! I started looking into equipment from various websites and am considering all the options.
I will say that like with most things you can spend as much or as little as you choose. The difference here is an inexpensive Lee single stage press is just fine. It will do the same things that multi thousand $$ Dillon setup will do, it will just be a bit slower, however the "quality" will still be there....and I would argue as you have tighter control of each step, higher "quality".
To sum that part up you don't need to spend the grand kids college fund.
Now saving money. That is a real wide open subject. How about I say depends, don't you love that.
If you are shooting a "common" caliber, your $$ savings will likely be in the pennies if you place no costs on your time. If you shoot something not so common, or things that fall into the hand held canon group (belted magnums of old and other things along those lines) you will save quite a bit.
Personally I shoot quite a few "old" calibers, some that are not even loaded for anymore. In many cases if I don't load it I don't shoot it. And where a factory option can be found price per trigger pull vaults over $2 per very easy. You just don't find 30-40 Krag on the shelf at walmart.
The last thing I will say is the "you" thing. Reloading is not hard, if you can follow directions you can do it. But it does take time, and you are working with smaller things. Some people find it just tedious. Personally I would think with my personality I would hate it, but it is the reverse. I really enjoy loading, it is a great calming force for me. Things blend away and all I have is powder and primer.
Congrats.
