Gunsmithing Rem 700 recoil lug is not aligned with trigger

[AWildSwanger]

Howdy gents, first post here.

I purchased a McMillan Game Hunter stock that was previously bedded by original owner. I took the rifle apart, and while trying to test fit the barrel and action into the stock I could not firmly seat the trigger housing into the stock.

Upon further inspection the trigger is out of alignment with recoil lug.

How can I adjust it? Thank you

 

[loveha]

Is it the recoil lug, or the trigger? I can't see how the trigger would not be aligned. But I can see how the lug wouldn't be.

 

[Jackalope]

sounds like the recoil lug bedding needs ground out and re-bedded to your lug.

 

[Mauser06]

Is the lug crooked? Like the barrel was tightened and the lug wasn't at 6 o'clock?


Pics would help.

 

[LRI]

It's very common for a recoil lug that isn't pinned to slip out of alignment during the barrel installation process. The tools used to "clock" (a term I use loosely) often end up canted once a load from a torque wrench is applied.

In the past what I've done is literally whack the thing with a hammer to straighten it back out. I just lock it down in the vise good, grab a piece of aluminum or brass, and swing for the nosebleed seats. It's not very romantic or impressive, but it does work.

The better option is to pin the lug and this is precisely why we insist upon it with every full build we do here.

 

[AWildSwanger]

Black stock is OEM Rem 700 stock, Camo is the new one. When trying to put all of the pieces back together, there is a direct impingement to the left of the trigger housing in the Camo stock

 

[jetmd]

Take a couple of pictures of the barreled action/trigger and recoil lug area removed from the stock.

Also a couple of pictures of the recoil lug area (pocket) in the stocks.

This will allow us to better see if the recoil lug is out of alignment or if it is a stock issue.

 

[Vodak]

Does the mag well line up or is it also canted? Do the action screws line up or are they also canted? Is the scope rail level to the top of the stock?
It looks like everything is also offset to the side, which indicates lug. Best option is to pull, pin, and retorque the barrel back down. Or beat the snot out of it like Chad suggested.

 

[want2learn]

I know little compared to those above but......is it perhaps possible that the whole barreled action is rotated as it insets into the stock/bedding? is the bedding the culprit?

i guess i would start to confirm whether the rail, trigger, bore axis, center of the recoil lug, center of the magwell align.

 

[Hateca]

Yes the recoil lug can be crooked, most factory Remingtons are. You can break the barrel loose and use an alignment tool to hold the lug straight while torque is applied. Drop the action into the stock and see if you can rotate it back and forth in the stock. It should rotate slightly back and forth. Check to be sure the lug isn’t bottoming out on the lug cutout in the stock. Check to be sure the trigger pins are not sticking out too far pushing on the stock.

If this stock has been bedded for another barreled action you are going to have to remove bedding material from the sides bottom and front of the recoil lug cutout in the stock

 

[myers129]

I assume the bedding was for a parallel recoil lug to match your factory lug? It’s probably just as likely that the stock was bedded with a crooked lug as it is that your factory lug is crooked. The best permanent fix in my opinion is to use a dremel, or mill if you’re that lucky, to remove the bedding on the outsides of the lug and possibly a touch on the front of it. If you can leave the bedding to the rear of the lug intact you will have as good of a foundation as possible without bedding it to your specific action.

 

[chevy_man]

It's very common for a recoil lug that isn't pinned to slip out of alignment during the barrel installation process. The tools used to "clock" (a term I use loosely) often end up canted once a load from a torque wrench is applied.

In the past what I've done is literally whack the thing with a hammer to straighten it back out. I just lock it down in the vise good, grab a piece of aluminum or brass, and swing for the nosebleed seats. It's not very romantic or impressive, but it does work.

The better option is to pin the lug and this is precisely why we insist upon it with every full build we do here.

I'm glad I'm not the only one that decided a simple smack from the 2lb hammer was the fix. I felt like a bubba but figured it accomplished the desired result.