Gunsmithing Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

[boudin]

With whitetail season coming to a close, I decided it was time to try and overhaul the tupperware stock on my Remington 700 SPS in a few ways. Now, let me preface all this by saying, I'm not expecting Manners or McM results from this project... hell, I'm not even expecting B&C results. I just want to get a little practice bedding a rifle and see if I cant fix a couple of the major weak points of this stock. So, without further adieu, let's get on with the tinkering and fiddling...

First thing to do was get the stock all cleaned up, so I washed it a few times with a foaming degreaser and dish soap, followed by a few Iso alcohol rub-downs. Then I roughed up the area to be bedded and recleaned.

I decided to fill some of the voids in the stock about 3/4 full with Loc-Tite stick epoxy to create a good base and not have to use quite so much Devcon.

Next up was to fill all the holes in the action with Play-Doh, tape the lug and barrel, and give it a coat of Kiwi. Since I am not going so far as to install pillars in this stock, I opted to leave the guide bolts out and just fill those holes in the action and stock with Play-Doh as well. From here, the only thing left was to apply the Devcon and wait... nervously.

After letting it sit for 16 hours, I decided the moment of truth had arrived and it was time to pop the barreled action out. After a little coaxing and a slap or two from my hand on the bottom of the stock, they separated with no problems what-so-ever. After all I had read about trying to bed these stocks, I really expected some of the Devcon to pull up from the stock. I guess the sanding, etching, and cleaning payed off though, because I had what appears to be a very solid layer everywhere the stock and action come in contact. A few hours later, I took to trimming and finishing all the edges with a Dremel and and drilling out the stud holes... here's the final result. A couple of very minor imperfections, but overall much better than I had initially imagined. The action fits like a glove now with no wiggle and the barrel is floated all the way to the lug.

Next on the agenda is to stiffen up the flimsy forend of the stock to keep it from bending up and contacting the barrel when on a bipod. All the same sanding and cleaning prep here, with the addition of drilling holes in the partitions to allow the epoxy to get a really solid hold in the channels. After a few hours of curing and a little sanding, here's what we've got. The forend is much more rigid now and as a fringe benefit, the gun feels like it has a better balance when held off-hand... that could just be my imagination though.

For the last modification, I will be filling the rear of the stock with expanding foam, but first... <span style="color: #FF0000">I encountered an unexpected and disappointing snag. While dry firing, my bolt seized up, rendering it unable to be cocked. This has happened in the past, when I installed my Shilen trigger, but after some coaxing and greasing, the bolt opened and never had a problem again... until now. I am really at a loss as to what is causing this. During this project, I flushed the trigger out with lighter fluid, cleaned the bolt, and re-greased the lugs and cocking ramp. After about 10-12 dry fires, the bolt started to get harder and harder to lift on the initial cocking maneuver and then... stuck closed. I have tried everything I can think of to get it open. I have now removed the trigger assembly (which I don't know was a good idea). From underneath, it appears that the cocking piece is binding on the cocking ramp.</span>
And then I noticed this... some pretty deep gouging in the side of the trigger housing at the rear.

Could the cocking piece be doing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. This project has gone seamlessly from the onset and right as I am nearing the end, I get blindsided by this bolt issue again.

 

[wnroscoe]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

with the trigger out of the rifle how does the bolt cycle?

Is there grease on the shrowd threads, bolt lugs and cocking piece/cocking ramp?

Is the sear bar free to move in the trigger housing?

Remove the burrs in the trigger housing and flush with brake parts cleaner then lighter fluid. Blow excess out.

 

[boudin]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

Thank you very much for looking at this Roscoe.

I have put the trigger back in. I was just checking to see if it that would free the bolt up, but it is back in and still will not open.

I have never greased the shrowd threads, but there is grease on the lugs and cocking piece/ramp.

The sear bar is free to move in the trigger housing... at least, when I removed the trigger, the sear bar would swing freely and was put back into the trigger housing with no problem. Now, whether or not it still moves as freely with it back installed, I do not know.

I will remove the burrs and clean the trigger again. Hopefully that will free it up. Why would the cocking piece gouge into the housing like that?

 

[wnroscoe]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

Is the barreled action out of the stock?

Front guard screw binding if it's in the stock?

With the trigger removed will the bolt open?

Is there a fired case in the chamber?

Not sure it was the cocking piece that caused the burrs. Take the fire control out ot the bolt body, clean and re-lube with gun grease.

 

[boudin]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

No, the barreled action is in the stock at the moment.

The bolt is seized up when it is in and out of the stock, so it's not either of the action screws or the front guard screw.

The bolt will not open with the trigger removed... it gives a little but sticks after approximately 10-15 degrees of lift. I take it, the bolt should be able to open even with the trigger removed?

There is not a fired case in the chamber. I was just dry firing when this occured.

If I can get the bolt to open, I'll pull the fire control out, clean and re-lube.

 

[wnroscoe]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

scope base screws still in?

If so loosen or remove the screw second from the front.

 

[boudin]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

Removed the scope base screw... still seized.

 

[wnroscoe]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

With the trigger out and scope base screws removed the binding is either in the fire control or bolt lug area. If the fire control is fired and bolt slightly loose the cocking ramp and cocking piece may be binding. Apply a liberal amount of Kroil or any other penetrating oil to these areas and try to work it loose. Don’t be shy with the oil, lube it up. Apply the oil from every crack and crevice you see. The scope base screw holes, front guard screw hole and around the bolt shroud. Even from underneath the receiver through the sear bar cocking piece recess.

The handle, although soldered on, is stronger than you think. With out pulling the barrel this is about your only option.

 

[boudin]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

Mr. Roscoe... thank you very much for helping me with this. I am heading to my local gun shop to pick up a can of aerosol kroil now... I hope that will suffice... it's all they have.

 

[wnroscoe]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

When fitting new barrels to receivers I sometimes have had the fit too tight when checking the last threading pass. Kroil helps a great deal as it's a penetrating oil and it worked it's way in and helped me to get things loose again. It's good stuff and should help.

It sure wont hurt

 

[boudin]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

So let me be sure I have this straight... should I be able to open the bolt with the trigger removed from the action just as easily as when it is installed?

 

[wnroscoe]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

Yes. The bolt should open with the trigger removed. It should feel like it was fired and your opening it afterwards. It may feel a little stiff but, it should open. With the binding your experiencing it may feel even more stiff. That’s what the Kroil was for, to add some lubricity and reduce the felt friction.

 

[wnroscoe]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

Spray away

 

[MAGUA]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

What i would do is secure the barrel upside down in a padded vise and push back on the cocking lever at the same time your lifting the bolt and see if that releases the tension.

 

[boudin]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

Well, I've kroiled and coaxed the bolt to high heaven and back, but she's not budging. Maybe a speck of play doh or devcon got into the lug area from the gas port or front action screw? It doesn't look like the problem lies with the cocking piece, as it slides up the ramp pretty smoothly for 2 tenths of an inch or so before sticking.

I've tried gently pushing the cocking piece while applying pressure to the bolt handle, but it doesn't seem to make a difference.

I appreciate all the help, but it looks like I'll be paying Mr. Gradous a visit. I can't figure what else I can do. I mean, there are only so many things that could have happened but I think I am at the end of my tools' and knowledge's capabillities.

 

[boudin]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

Well, I finally made it by Gradous' shop and we ended up getting the bolt open using the technique Magua suggested. Turns out I just wasn't able to generate enough force without having it clamped in a vise. When we took the firing pin assembly out, we found that a burr had formed on the very back of the bolt body. Not really sure how it was caused... Mr. Gradous said it wasn't anything I had done while working on the rifle, but he'd never seen that happen before. Anyone have any ideas what may have caused it? Here's a shot of it after he smoothed it out.

The last thing I did was pulled the little folded piece of foam out of the rear of the stock and filled it with expanding foam to help absorb vibrations and get rid of the hollow feel it had.

All in all, I’m really pleased with how the stock feels and functions now, but we’ll see if I was able to wring any extra accuracy out later this week. Like I’ve said, this was merely an attempt to make the best out of what I’ve got for the time being and getting a little experience under my belt. I know I’ll be much more comfortable bedding a Manners when the time comes after getting my feet wet with a ‘beater like this first.

 

[kill_goose]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

Looks good.

Those SPS stocks are cheap.

I did similar to mine. Although I didn't bed the action, I did bed the recoil lug as it was just "floating" in that compartment in the stock for it with zero contact anywhere. I also put bedding compound into those compartments surrounding the front receiver screw.

I cut notches in the ribs running left to right in the barrel channel and layed two pieces of 3/16" SS rod in there along the center rib. These ran the entire length on both sides of the center rib. I than poured marine epoxy over the entire works. Let it dry, and took off any high humps. I than ground those two plastic "tits" out at the end of the forend. This stiffened up the forearm quite a bit and added a bit of forward weight for more solid off hand shooting.

It wouldn't take a whole lot to improve those SPS stocks, I just wish Remington would do that from the get go. A little more rigid plastic would do wonders.

 

[Longrange****]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

My guess would have been the fire control from the beginning, you found a point of unusual wear. Ill bet money that somehow maybe a piece of bedding material got into the raceway and the cocking piece was kicked to the side just a hair. Now when it did this as you drew the bolt back it pushed the sear down but because it was off center it gouged into the inside of the trigger housing and you continued your motion anyway. When it did that Ill bet money that it created that bir on the shroud.......Im not saying for a second that you were abusing your stuff, hell it may not have been all that much more preassure than usual, especially if you were doing "rapid bolt manipulation".

 

[Longrange****]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

Oh yea, and very nice job by the way. In fact last night I did the same thing to a wood stock I modified. I was bored and figured I would try to bed my rifle with whatever I could find in the garage. It came out fairly decent using JB Weld and regular old gun oil for a release agent. I used the quick dry JB Weld...Ill tell ya what, that stuff is REALLY fast....start to finish and I mean everything, prep, release agent, mixing, applying, drying, and trimming was about 1 hour!!!! 2 hours after putting in the JB Weld it was done hardening for the most part and its hard as steel....

 

[JDB]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

Boudin,

Since you covered the stud holes with playdoh...did you just set the action into the Devcon??

How did you apply pressure on the action and devcon/stock while the Devcon was setting?

 

[boudin]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

That's correct, I just let the action rest in the devcon. I slowly pushed down on the tape rings on the barrel and ever so slightly on the tang, until the action was sitting at the correct depth. From there, I didn't do a thing but clean the ooze up and let it set. You don't need to apply pressure while the epoxy sets... the weight of the action is enough. In fact, as several very experienced and knowledgeable gunsmiths here on the hide have pointed out, applying pressure by tightening action screws or clamping is a good way to induce stress in the bedding job.

 

[JDB]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

Thanks for the information!! You mentioned tape rings on the barrel. I understand that this is to create the "floating" effect while the Devcon sets.

How many tape revolutions did you find were best to "float" the barrel while the Devcon was setting up? Did you tape off multiple places on the barrel or just the portion of the barrel where the stock forearm ends?

Sorry for all the questions, but I like the job you did!

 

[Shortdraw]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

Great project. Others who don't have/want to spend the money on a stock upgrade should pay attention. I think you did everything possible to get the best accuracy out of this stock short of pillar bedding. Good job.

 

[boudin]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

JDB, the amount of tape revolutions will vary from rifle to rifle. You are correct that taping the barrel contributes to the "floating" of the barrel, but it's also dictating how the action sits in the stock. In this case, I did all my relief work in the barrel channel and where the action sits, but I left about 1 cm of the stock material under the rear of the tang to serve as a reference point, which supported the rear of the barreled action. Then I began wrapping tape around a section of the barrel (in the forearm area) until the ejection port was flush with the lines on the stock (refer to picture in the first post) and made sure the "Remington 700" on the other side was level as well. I wrapped tape in two spots... one about 2 inches in front of the barrel/recoil lug junction, and the other about a 1/2 inch from the end of the stock. Don't sweat the questions.

 

[boudin]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

Thanks short draw. I considered doing it proper and ordering a pillar set, but felt it would kinda be a wasted effort on this stock. Plus, I wanted to K.I.S.S. on this project and reserve the pillar job for the manners down the road. We'll see what all the work did for the accuracy on Thursday.

 

[MAGUA]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

Did Mr Gradous say anything about what was causing the gouges in the trigger housing ?

 

[boudin]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

You know, I actually forgot to ask him about that. I had the trigger seperate from the barreled action and was only thinking about getting the bolt open at the time, but I'll mention it next time I'm down there and see what he says. I'm wondering if I didn't bend the sidewall of the trigger housing at some point, when putting the pin in, and that's from the cocking piece catching it after the firing pin was released?

 

[boudin]

Re: Rem 700 Stock Overhaul

Took a lot longer than I thought to make it out to the range, but I finally got to squeeze a few off. I had given the barrel a good scrubbing with JB bore cleaner and it took alot longer then normal to refoul. After that, testing some 105 Gr. AMAX loads, and working on some of my dope for a few ranges, I shot a few groups at 100 yds. The first picture is of the last 3 85 Gr. SGK loads I had, with Fed GM 210m primers (.597 MOA). The second is 2 5 shot groups with 10 of the same load, except CCI 200 primers instead of Feds. The group on the right was shot first with a slight cheek weld adjustment after the first 2 shots (.893 MOA), then the one of the left (.434 MOA). I think I'll be switching to the CCIs as they're cheaper and appear to be a touch more consistent. Now if I could just hit the target!

All in all, I can't really say I noticed a huge difference in accuracy... maybe a .1 MOA gain or a skoosh more... but honestly, I wasn't expecting much. The major benifits I have seen are: the gun is much more solid, I can shoot off a bipod now, and I can go through longer strings of firing without adversely affecting the POI. Plus, the biggest benifit was the experience. If you're the DIY type person, I highly reccomend reading Roscoe's thread a few times start to finish, and go at it. It's really not that daunting of a task.