Mine is uber heavy and I want to adjust it? Has anyone done this and if so is it very difficult?
Thanks
Jason
Thanks
Jason
Gunsmithing Rem 700 Trigger
- Thread starter Jhunt41
- Start date
Re: Rem 700 Trigger
Well I gave it a try, we'll see what happens when I take it to the range next week. It's pretty light compared to factory which must have been about 6 lbs. I'm guessing it's around 2 lbs now. It seems to have a tiny but of play that I couldn't seem to get out. But hey it was my first try! I'll let ya'll know.
Jason
Well I gave it a try, we'll see what happens when I take it to the range next week. It's pretty light compared to factory which must have been about 6 lbs. I'm guessing it's around 2 lbs now. It seems to have a tiny but of play that I couldn't seem to get out. But hey it was my first try! I'll let ya'll know.
Jason
Re: Rem 700 Trigger
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Be careful</span></span> if you are down around 2 Lb the you are just at or off the trigger spring. The trigger and sear may not be fully engaging, <span style="font-size: 11pt"><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">COULD FIRE ON CLOSING BOLT</span></span></span>, that is the play you are feeling.
Was unable to get my 700p down to 1.5 Lbs without that occuring, was testing with snap cap, this is how I discovered the trigger spring problem.
Remington does not want their triggers that light, liability.
Just rip it out and replace it with a Timney, easy drop in and easy to adjust.
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Be careful</span></span> if you are down around 2 Lb the you are just at or off the trigger spring. The trigger and sear may not be fully engaging, <span style="font-size: 11pt"><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">COULD FIRE ON CLOSING BOLT</span></span></span>, that is the play you are feeling.
Was unable to get my 700p down to 1.5 Lbs without that occuring, was testing with snap cap, this is how I discovered the trigger spring problem.
Remington does not want their triggers that light, liability.
Just rip it out and replace it with a Timney, easy drop in and easy to adjust.
Re: Rem 700 Trigger
I agree with 1k. I know several guys that have tried to get their factory triggers adjusted below 2lbs (guys that have never touched a trigger on the old style remmy trigger) and the firing pin would occassionally fall if the bolt was slammed forward.
Have someone that knows what they are doing adjust it or spend a little extra money and buy one that is designed to operate in that range.
I agree with 1k. I know several guys that have tried to get their factory triggers adjusted below 2lbs (guys that have never touched a trigger on the old style remmy trigger) and the firing pin would occassionally fall if the bolt was slammed forward.
Have someone that knows what they are doing adjust it or spend a little extra money and buy one that is designed to operate in that range.
Re: Rem 700 Trigger
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1000 YDS. IS FUN</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Be careful</span></span> if you are down around 2 Lb the you are just at or off the trigger spring. The trigger and sear may not be fully engaging, <span style="font-size: 11pt"><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">COULD FIRE ON CLOSING BOLT</span></span></span>, that is the play you are feeling.
Was unable to get my 700p down to 1.5 Lbs without that occuring, was testing with snap cap, this is how I discovered the trigger spring problem.
Remington does not want their triggers that light, liability.
Just rip it out and replace it with a Timney, easy drop in and easy to adjust.
</div></div>
+1, do a test with dummie round before you put any live round in it. Also try cock the action and drop the rifle (buttpad hit the ground) on the ground about knee high, and see if it discharges. SAFETY #1!!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1000 YDS. IS FUN</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Be careful</span></span> if you are down around 2 Lb the you are just at or off the trigger spring. The trigger and sear may not be fully engaging, <span style="font-size: 11pt"><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">COULD FIRE ON CLOSING BOLT</span></span></span>, that is the play you are feeling.
Was unable to get my 700p down to 1.5 Lbs without that occuring, was testing with snap cap, this is how I discovered the trigger spring problem.
Remington does not want their triggers that light, liability.
Just rip it out and replace it with a Timney, easy drop in and easy to adjust.
</div></div>
+1, do a test with dummie round before you put any live round in it. Also try cock the action and drop the rifle (buttpad hit the ground) on the ground about knee high, and see if it discharges. SAFETY #1!!
Re: Rem 700 Trigger
The Remington trigger:
The Remington 700 Trigger has three screws.
The Remington triggers are very good, except they come with a built in lawyer, and he weighs about 9 or 10 pounds.
You will need a bit of good quality gun oil (CLP or equivalent), and a set of small screwdrivers, and some white or red nail polish.
Remove the barreled action from the stock.
Looking at the gun and trigger so the safety is up, and the barrel is pointing to your right... the front of the trigger is to your right...
The three screws are as follows...
• On your right, (the front of the trigger) the top screw, near the action, is over travel...
• The bottom screw is spring tension...
• On your left side, (the back of the trigger) is the engagement screw.
First, break the white "Seals of God" and screw the three screws out enough so that you see several threads.
They may be hard at first, but they are NOT staked in place. The screws and trigger body are carbon steel, and may be rusted, or they may have a sealant on them. Just break them free. Drop a teeny bit of oil on the threads. Run the screws in and out several times until the oil is in the threads, and they turn freely.
OK, now down to business.
Back out the spring tension screw out until there is just enough pressure to keep the trigger forward, but it's very light (4 or 5 oz's) and easy to move.
Back out the engagement screw, (the single screw on the left) and the over-travel screw (the upper screw on your right) out, so there's play to adjust.
Close the bolt on a cocked pin (don't pull the trigger) and VERY SLOWLY turn the engagement screw (on your left) in until the firing pin drops. Back it out about 1/3 to 1/2 of a turn. With the firing pin down, you should now feel the trigger wobble back and forth if you pull it because there is excessive over travel.
Because the back surface of the trigger is NOT undercut, you have to adjust over-travel with the pin "down".
Now, with the firing pin in the "fired" position, screw in the over-travel screw until it "just touches" the trigger lightly, preventing the trigger from moving... back out the over travel screw 1/4 turn. Pulling the trigger now, (with the pin "down") you should feel just the "slightest" free movement.
Now turn in the spring tension screw (lower right) to a pull that you like... I'd strongly suggest a good trigger pull gauge, instead of guessing.
Cock the pin and try it... it should break like glass.
Check by:
• Slam the bolt closed a dozen times, check to see if the pin dropped each time. If the pin drops, back out the engagement screw 1/4 turn, and do again.
• Cock the pin, set the safety, pull the trigger, release the trigger, and release the safety, a dozen times... if the pin drops, increase the spring tension (shouldn't be necessary, unless you're down around 10-15 oz's, and this trigger is not reliable at that light a pull.
Put white or red nail polish on the screws. Let dry, and put another coat on it again, and again.
There will be no "take up slack", this is a single stage trigger, and can't be adjusted to act like a two stage.
These triggers are easily capable of going to 24-26 oz's, and they keep the setting year after year, and I've never had to re-adjust one.
Pulled from another forum,Quarterbore I think
The Remington trigger:
The Remington 700 Trigger has three screws.
The Remington triggers are very good, except they come with a built in lawyer, and he weighs about 9 or 10 pounds.
You will need a bit of good quality gun oil (CLP or equivalent), and a set of small screwdrivers, and some white or red nail polish.
Remove the barreled action from the stock.
Looking at the gun and trigger so the safety is up, and the barrel is pointing to your right... the front of the trigger is to your right...
The three screws are as follows...
• On your right, (the front of the trigger) the top screw, near the action, is over travel...
• The bottom screw is spring tension...
• On your left side, (the back of the trigger) is the engagement screw.
First, break the white "Seals of God" and screw the three screws out enough so that you see several threads.
They may be hard at first, but they are NOT staked in place. The screws and trigger body are carbon steel, and may be rusted, or they may have a sealant on them. Just break them free. Drop a teeny bit of oil on the threads. Run the screws in and out several times until the oil is in the threads, and they turn freely.
OK, now down to business.
Back out the spring tension screw out until there is just enough pressure to keep the trigger forward, but it's very light (4 or 5 oz's) and easy to move.
Back out the engagement screw, (the single screw on the left) and the over-travel screw (the upper screw on your right) out, so there's play to adjust.
Close the bolt on a cocked pin (don't pull the trigger) and VERY SLOWLY turn the engagement screw (on your left) in until the firing pin drops. Back it out about 1/3 to 1/2 of a turn. With the firing pin down, you should now feel the trigger wobble back and forth if you pull it because there is excessive over travel.
Because the back surface of the trigger is NOT undercut, you have to adjust over-travel with the pin "down".
Now, with the firing pin in the "fired" position, screw in the over-travel screw until it "just touches" the trigger lightly, preventing the trigger from moving... back out the over travel screw 1/4 turn. Pulling the trigger now, (with the pin "down") you should feel just the "slightest" free movement.
Now turn in the spring tension screw (lower right) to a pull that you like... I'd strongly suggest a good trigger pull gauge, instead of guessing.
Cock the pin and try it... it should break like glass.
Check by:
• Slam the bolt closed a dozen times, check to see if the pin dropped each time. If the pin drops, back out the engagement screw 1/4 turn, and do again.
• Cock the pin, set the safety, pull the trigger, release the trigger, and release the safety, a dozen times... if the pin drops, increase the spring tension (shouldn't be necessary, unless you're down around 10-15 oz's, and this trigger is not reliable at that light a pull.
Put white or red nail polish on the screws. Let dry, and put another coat on it again, and again.
There will be no "take up slack", this is a single stage trigger, and can't be adjusted to act like a two stage.
These triggers are easily capable of going to 24-26 oz's, and they keep the setting year after year, and I've never had to re-adjust one.
Pulled from another forum,Quarterbore I think
Re: Rem 700 Trigger
My procedure:
Familiarize yourself with the three primary adjustments of any single stage adjustable trigger system.
Sear overlap
Weight
Overtravel
Reduce the sear engagement until the striker falls. (ensure the gun isn't loaded prior to this please)
Rotate the adjustment screw in the opposite direction 1/4-1/3 of a turn.
Cycle the action several times while observing the cocking indicator. The striker should not fall.
If it doesn't proceed to next step. If it does, increase both the sear engagement by backing off an additional 1/4 turn AND increase the trigger weight.
if the striker didn't fall, attempt to set the weight of the trigger to the desired level. Then repeat the first step of cycling the action several times. Only now do it with more authority. TRY to make it screw up.
If it doesn't, then get something to whack on the back of the cocking indicator. A leather mallet, screwdriver handle, anything you can rap on it with that won't mark things up.
Smack the snot out of it a few times and see if the cocking piece rides over the sear and causes a slam fire. If this happens you may have a number of problems that are not trigger related:
They could be:
worn receiver bore/bolt clearance
worn cocking piece
worn trigger sear
Any combination of the three.
Typically a bolt gun has about .05" cocking piece/sear overlap.
Ok, back to setting your trigger:
IF the trigger is working properly you should be able to tap it on the floor by the but a few times and not have it slam fire. IF it does then increase the weight until it stops.
Here's the deal with this. I've designed and produced a few triggers. Mostly two stage units for competitive shooting. The Remington design is good so long as it's used within proper limits for which it is designed.
One thing I personally don't care for in a two lever trigger is the way most (not all) manufacturer's locate/drill the pivot pin hole in the trigger sear component.
Think of a sea saw at the playground. You have a fat kid on one side and skinny one on the other end. Who wins? The fat kid right?
Well, if you have MORE mass below the pivot pin that is our fat kid and it's working against you if the rifle ever hits on the buttplate with any force. The trigger is depending on the weight spring to prevent this which is why the thing will slam fire if the weight is set too low. If the top portion were heavier or if the hole was in a different location the probability of this happening would be reduced.
I don't work on many Remmy two lever triggers but its been my experience that the threshold for reliable service is right around the 2lb mark.
FWIW proper trigger control can be obtained at any weight.
Hope this helped.
C
My procedure:
Familiarize yourself with the three primary adjustments of any single stage adjustable trigger system.
Sear overlap
Weight
Overtravel
Reduce the sear engagement until the striker falls. (ensure the gun isn't loaded prior to this please)
Rotate the adjustment screw in the opposite direction 1/4-1/3 of a turn.
Cycle the action several times while observing the cocking indicator. The striker should not fall.
If it doesn't proceed to next step. If it does, increase both the sear engagement by backing off an additional 1/4 turn AND increase the trigger weight.
if the striker didn't fall, attempt to set the weight of the trigger to the desired level. Then repeat the first step of cycling the action several times. Only now do it with more authority. TRY to make it screw up.
If it doesn't, then get something to whack on the back of the cocking indicator. A leather mallet, screwdriver handle, anything you can rap on it with that won't mark things up.
Smack the snot out of it a few times and see if the cocking piece rides over the sear and causes a slam fire. If this happens you may have a number of problems that are not trigger related:
They could be:
worn receiver bore/bolt clearance
worn cocking piece
worn trigger sear
Any combination of the three.
Typically a bolt gun has about .05" cocking piece/sear overlap.
Ok, back to setting your trigger:
IF the trigger is working properly you should be able to tap it on the floor by the but a few times and not have it slam fire. IF it does then increase the weight until it stops.
Here's the deal with this. I've designed and produced a few triggers. Mostly two stage units for competitive shooting. The Remington design is good so long as it's used within proper limits for which it is designed.
One thing I personally don't care for in a two lever trigger is the way most (not all) manufacturer's locate/drill the pivot pin hole in the trigger sear component.
Think of a sea saw at the playground. You have a fat kid on one side and skinny one on the other end. Who wins? The fat kid right?
Well, if you have MORE mass below the pivot pin that is our fat kid and it's working against you if the rifle ever hits on the buttplate with any force. The trigger is depending on the weight spring to prevent this which is why the thing will slam fire if the weight is set too low. If the top portion were heavier or if the hole was in a different location the probability of this happening would be reduced.
I don't work on many Remmy two lever triggers but its been my experience that the threshold for reliable service is right around the 2lb mark.
FWIW proper trigger control can be obtained at any weight.
Hope this helped.
C
