I'm thinking of rebarrelong a remington model 722 in .222 to a .223. Would it be feasible to assume that I can use a Remage barrel to do that? Are there issues in the receiver or bolt face that would make that difficult?
- Thread starter Risingsea
- Start date
I've never done it, but looking at my own 722, yes, you should be able to do that (though you'd have to relieve material from the stock for the barrel nut). 722 barrels are the same thread pitch and diameter as Rem 700's.
Yes, it should work fine...the old 222 barrel may be difficult to remove, I've had to machine a 1972 25-06 barrel to relieve tension on the recoil lug to unscrew it, even with a barrel vise, and action wrench.
As in, using a parting tool to cut a relief groove near the receiver ring...
It was difficult. Lots of penetrating oil, a bit of heat and some heavy duty whacking on the receiver wrench did the trick. This one was probably manufactured in the 50's or 60's!!!
Hello fellows, I want to share with you a few words from my experience rebarreling a 722 .222 to a 5.56.
First; feel confident over you Remington 722, .222 caliber; because you can install any Remington 700 .223 barrel on it, without further adjustments. It does not necessarily require the work of a gunsmith, although if you can afford it will guarantee better results.
Secondly the hardest part of the process is remove the original barrel, since the rifle is old, it is surely rusty and stuck to the threads and dealing with it; requires time, effort and patience so as not to damage or twist the receiver.
It is advisable before the final assembly, to treat all the metal parts of the weapon with Parkerize and Cerakote finish, to ensure an improved final appearance and extend the lifespan of your rifle.
Regards.
First; feel confident over you Remington 722, .222 caliber; because you can install any Remington 700 .223 barrel on it, without further adjustments. It does not necessarily require the work of a gunsmith, although if you can afford it will guarantee better results.
Secondly the hardest part of the process is remove the original barrel, since the rifle is old, it is surely rusty and stuck to the threads and dealing with it; requires time, effort and patience so as not to damage or twist the receiver.
It is advisable before the final assembly, to treat all the metal parts of the weapon with Parkerize and Cerakote finish, to ensure an improved final appearance and extend the lifespan of your rifle.
Regards.
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Absolutely not!
For example the bolt may not close when just taking one Remington barrel off and putting it on another Remington rifle.
The headspace may be off. It requires the services of a gunsmith, or someone who had chambered rifles before.. . You may have to recut the barrel shoulder, face, and or counter bore either diameter or depth, or both. The barrel may thread too deep, or not deep enough.
Sounds like you don't know how to correctly measure bolt face to barrel clearence, counter bore dia and depth clearence and have a correct headspace measurement before you even start.
If so...You are in a dangerous path.
Do you own a depth micrometer, go and no go gauges. Need a lathe, and a dial test indicator and know how to fix it, if things that are not perfect.
If not, STOP!
You have no idea what you are doing or where you will end up.
This is a job for a gunsmith to get it right.
And I'd put on a new premium barrel, not an old Remington
It's nice to have an answer. thank you for that, Mr. 45-90
It is clear that you're not a fan of doing things by yourself, and learn on the process; but i must admit, that you're right on your words.
It is necesesary to use a reamer and a micrometer to make your rifle meet the specs; for me it is not a big deal, i get the expirience rebarreling long ago, using any type of barrel; used or new, that depends mostly on your budget.
What I want to make clear is that the type of advice I want to communicate is to encourage others to build a custom rifle, it is an experience that any hunter and rifleman should have. You gain experience and a lot of satisfaction in all stages of the process.
It is definitely obvious that when people stop knowing what they are doing, they seek professional assistance, they seek help to guarantee a better result and it is logical as I already mentioned, to seek the help of a gunsmith when the difficulty of your project scenario requires it.
It is a pleasure to exchange words with someone who knows as much as you do.
Regards.
It is clear that you're not a fan of doing things by yourself, and learn on the process; but i must admit, that you're right on your words.
It is necesesary to use a reamer and a micrometer to make your rifle meet the specs; for me it is not a big deal, i get the expirience rebarreling long ago, using any type of barrel; used or new, that depends mostly on your budget.
What I want to make clear is that the type of advice I want to communicate is to encourage others to build a custom rifle, it is an experience that any hunter and rifleman should have. You gain experience and a lot of satisfaction in all stages of the process.
It is definitely obvious that when people stop knowing what they are doing, they seek professional assistance, they seek help to guarantee a better result and it is logical as I already mentioned, to seek the help of a gunsmith when the difficulty of your project scenario requires it.
It is a pleasure to exchange words with someone who knows as much as you do.
Regards.
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I'm actually a fan of "do it yourself", unless you are wat over your head.
This is a precision fit, and requires precision tool to complete correctly. Plus complete understanding of the action and chambering. Machining experience and quality machine tools, test indicators, micrometers, go gauge, no go gauges, and a finish chamber to tackle this job correctly.
You can order what is called a prefit barrel for the .223, that is prechambered, with a go gauge to set head space and a barrel nut to tighten against the reciever...with the use of a barrel vise.
This is fairly easy for the do it your self guy, and get good results...probaby cost $500 plus tools to tighten the barrel nut and keep the barrel lug precisely in place during tightening.
Taking off an old barrel can be rather difficult and requires a lathe to make a relief cut.
So if ya want to do this, study up on the Remington prefit barrels, and watch videos from Brownells, or others to help you.
Some pictures cutting a relief right up next to the recoil lug to get the old barrel off. Requires a precision lathe and knowledge of machining, notice what looks like rust.
Then this has to be cleaned off the reciever And reqquire complete reciever remachining, to clean up.
Checking headspace with barrel still indicated in the lathe, allows one to see exactly where its at and what is needed to make it correct it. This should be within .001" to .004" max.
Installing a different bolt may not fit the reciever bore, and or excess play, cam timing off. Counter bore in barrel has to fit bolt nose with proper clearance.
A lot of thing to consider and understand before blindly diving in.
This is a precision fit, and requires precision tool to complete correctly. Plus complete understanding of the action and chambering. Machining experience and quality machine tools, test indicators, micrometers, go gauge, no go gauges, and a finish chamber to tackle this job correctly.
You can order what is called a prefit barrel for the .223, that is prechambered, with a go gauge to set head space and a barrel nut to tighten against the reciever...with the use of a barrel vise.
This is fairly easy for the do it your self guy, and get good results...probaby cost $500 plus tools to tighten the barrel nut and keep the barrel lug precisely in place during tightening.
Taking off an old barrel can be rather difficult and requires a lathe to make a relief cut.
So if ya want to do this, study up on the Remington prefit barrels, and watch videos from Brownells, or others to help you.
Some pictures cutting a relief right up next to the recoil lug to get the old barrel off. Requires a precision lathe and knowledge of machining, notice what looks like rust.
Then this has to be cleaned off the reciever And reqquire complete reciever remachining, to clean up.
Checking headspace with barrel still indicated in the lathe, allows one to see exactly where its at and what is needed to make it correct it. This should be within .001" to .004" max.
Installing a different bolt may not fit the reciever bore, and or excess play, cam timing off. Counter bore in barrel has to fit bolt nose with proper clearance.
A lot of thing to consider and understand before blindly diving in.
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You really think I'm not real ?
I don't know if I should be flattered by your conclusion.
In any case, I like the attention I have on this forum.
I share more photos to gain your confidence
Kind Regards.
