I had a customer bring me a Rem 700 action with a buggered front action screw hole. The screw was rusted in place or glued in place and imprecisely drilled out which elongated the hole. Any suggestions on drilling and tapping oversize? Never encountered this one.
Gunsmithing Remington 700 Action Repair
- Thread starter Hundo
- Start date
Wouldn't it be cheaper to just replace the action?
D
Deleted member 10043
Guest
I would total it as well. I'm thinking mig weld, machine, drill, and tap.
If you're trying to turn a profit replacement might be a better option. Carefully TIGing it up and re-drill/tap might work so long as it does not compromise the heat treat on the lower lug abutment. If no TIG available then redrill the next size up: 5/16-18 or M8x1 and bill the customer hourly.
Too much to go 8/40? Im guessing so and it wasnt said, so asking.
It usually fixes slight lateral offsets, so may work for this?
Lemme get my Dremel, we can fix this!
It usually fixes slight lateral offsets, so may work for this?
Lemme get my Dremel, we can fix this!
D
Deleted member 10043
Guest
Hold my beer and watch this 
Customer has $1500 in the receiver/bolt. Custom stuff unfired. He tells me now that it was a muffed pillar bed job and he drilled out the screw. I think I will TIG it and redrill and tap. Will not be cheap
Time sert would probably work. Bill the customer for the tools and the time.
https://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-UNF-Thread-Repair-Kit/dp/B001JK23MS
https://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-UNF-Thread-Repair-Kit/dp/B001JK23MS
Excellent option.
It’s not a scope base screw but one of the action screws, which starts out at 1/4-28.
Neat, I need to remember these. Looks like most might be too long but did notice on Time-Sert site a 1/4x32 that was only .180 long.
They’re super neat. Like a helicoil, but good ?.
Even if you had to do both the screw holes 1/4x32, you could just run Winchester action screws.
If its going in a pillar, length would not be an issue.
Good point, didn't think about that and it would get you back to a more common thread.
Insert is definitely the way to roll on that screw up.
Definitely use a rigid setup and indicate everything so you can locate directly over where the center of the hole SHOULD BE then clean up with a milling op prior to drilling.
If your intrepid customer screwed up the hole as bad as it sounds, there is every chance the currently modified opening is likely elliptical and no longer centered in the original position. If this condition exists, simply running in the new oversize drill to prep for the insert will result in the cleaned up hole not residing in the proper location.
Definitely use a rigid setup and indicate everything so you can locate directly over where the center of the hole SHOULD BE then clean up with a milling op prior to drilling.
If your intrepid customer screwed up the hole as bad as it sounds, there is every chance the currently modified opening is likely elliptical and no longer centered in the original position. If this condition exists, simply running in the new oversize drill to prep for the insert will result in the cleaned up hole not residing in the proper location.
Took a look on the TimeSert site nd they describe how to install if insert is too long. In a nutshell, give the threads some locktite and let it set up. Install insert to proper depth, then mill or file off the amount left proud. Insert installation tool again to clean up threads.
What about oversizing the hole on true centerline, fabricating a steel plug, freezing in LN2 and dropping it in then re-drilling and threading to the correct size?
Would just need a stop on the inside to keep it from going proud.
Just fill the hole hot glue or cheese whiz and tell him never to take it apart.......
