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Gunsmithing Remington 700 rebarreling Pictures Up

EricM40

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 13, 2009
282
3
37
Georgia
Interchangeable barrels for a rem 700. I just got one and am pretty satisfied with it. Mine is a 308 SS 26" Varmint contour. I have holes touching at 150 yards. That is with factory ammo. I have used rem 168gr BTAT, Hornady 168gr BTHP match, and Hornady 168gr BTSP. I am very satisfied.

I put this barrel on in 20 minutes. All you need is a go/no go guage and a strap wrench. A vise too of course.

http://www.bergarabarrels.com/remington-rifle-barrels.html


 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

Now, this is interesting ...
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Can you post a picture of the barrel nut?
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: EricM40</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

I put this barrel on in 20 minutes. All you need is a go/no go guage and a strap wrench. A vise too of course.



</div></div>
action wrench?
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Victor N TN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I was wondering if he used a regular bench vise or if it had the pipe jaws on the inside? </div></div>

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okie
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

There are several gunsmiths and barrel makers who have been doing these barrel-nut conversions on Remington actions for several years. Pac-Nor is one. I would probably use a barrel vise to hold the barrel while I unscrewed the action, but <span style="font-style: italic">whatever</span>...
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

Sorry for the lack of replies I have been out hunting all weekend. Feel free to ask me anything you would like.

An action wrench is nice and I have used one. It is a must for removing the factory barrel. But for changing the barrel later, it can be done without it.

Nicholst I did not need the factory barrel, so a barrel vise was not needed. I used a piece of leather in a vise to prevent scratches on the new barrel.

I have to make a website to post pics, if you would like to email me at [email protected] I would be happy to send out pics.

Strap wrench gets the nut plenty tight. You do not need a torque rating for everything with threads.
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

I dont think many people on here are going to like 'em man. Even the Savages on this site get the barrel nuts removed.
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I dont see any point in changing barrels until it's time to rebarrel. Put it on right, shoot it out, then put on a new one or re-cut it if you want.


I guess with a barrel nut, you dont have to wait for a smith to do it though.
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

I, for one, do not even think about removing the barrel nut.
The Myth that affects accuracy is blatantly false, same as the fact that it comes lose.
And in return allows you to change the barrel yourself, saving smith wait time AND money (which could be invested in reloading supplies or ammo, just for example).
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

Definitely not a remage barrel.

The nut is flat, which is why you use a strap wrench instead of that crown nut savage has. The nylon strap wrenches work the best. Bergara barrels uses different tapers on the nuts between the factory and varmint contoured barrels. Which gives it a nice streamlined look.
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

I can see why you need a strap wrench for the barrel nut. It looks cool for sure. The only thing I would worry about is getting it too tight and then not being able to get it back off. I suppose with the right bushing you could use a normal barrel vise to pull off the nut if it was on too tight for a strap wrench. I think the Savage nut only needs 15 pounds, so that should easily be doable for a strap wrench. At any rate here are the pics:

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Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

The nut goes on and off just fine. No need to tighten it up to the action with the power of Thor. A good snug fit is all you need and it will not go anywhere.
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

Most barrels are tightened on THAT tight though. I've realized from removing barrels using a barrel vise and action wrench, that it's not F-ing fun and they are on there TIGHT.

Accuracy international tightens their barrel to 100ft/lbs

I've heard most actions should be around 80 to 90ft/lbs.

If this is true, do you think your getting anywhere near that with a strap wrench? I highly doubt it.

Not trying to shoot holes in the idea... Just asking.

Keith
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

Keith,

The barrel nut is a lock nut of sorts. It would take WAY more torque to spin the barrel off without loosening the barrel nut (lock nut). The lock nut doesn't need to be very tight to in effect lock the barrel into place. I don't know the techinical terms, but try to pull a Savage barrel off the receiver without first loosening the barrel nut and you will see what I mean, it would take a tremendous torque setting to do so. The only problem I was referencing is if someone got over zealous with the smooth barrel nut, it may become difficult to remove, meaning it could require much more than 15 foot pounds to remove. But this can be done with a normal barrel vice I would guess.

DD
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AZPrecision</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Most barrels are tightened on THAT tight though. I've realized from removing barrels using a barrel vise and action wrench, that it's not F-ing fun and they are on there TIGHT.

Accuracy international tightens their barrel to 100ft/lbs

I've heard most actions should be around 80 to 90ft/lbs.

If this is true, do you think your getting anywhere near that with a strap wrench? I highly doubt it.

Not trying to shoot holes in the idea... Just asking.

Keith </div></div>

Keith,
In all actuality, there is no need for barrels to be torqued THAT tight. Speaking for myself and a few other high quality builders here, you'd be surprised at how tight the barrel doesn't have to be. When the surfaces are machined properly, everything locks up VERY solid without a lot of torque....My take-down rifle only requires a flick of the wrist as the shoulder of the barrel reaches the adapter and it takes a little effort to remove it....
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

So the barrel nut has a mechanical advantage and doesnt need as much pressure, to be just as tight? ..if I said that right


And thats good to hear. I'd sure as hell like to work with barrels that werent that tight.

The times I've taken a barrel off or tightened it back on to the same referance point(a scribe), it was so tight I found it hard not to scratch something
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

yes, it uses the same principle as a lock nut. You know when you use two nuts on a bolt... either nut individually will move freely up and down the bolt, but once you tighten one against the other, it locks the threads, so you can turn the bolt out of the 'lock'. I would be curious just how much torque it would take to remove a barrel without loosening the barrel nut, I would guess it would rival any of the typical factory barrels with a shoulder.

Dave
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

Mike,

I completely understand what you are saying about it not needing the torque if it is properly fitted, that is if it has a shoulder. The principle of the barrel (lock) nut is that it pulls the threads of the barrel back against the threads of the action, and creates a 'pinch' between the threads, almost like cutting the threads too narrow if you will, the barrel no longer turns freely because it binds. It doesn't take much torque at all on the barrel nut, therefore it is fairly easy to remove as well. It is like two pieces of a puzzle that work in conjunction to effectively lock the barrel in its place without requiring large amounts of torque to do so.

What Mike is talking about is when the surface area of the barrel shoulder and the action face are mated properly, they in effect create enough surface tension or friction that they will lock into place with very little torque applied on the barrel. This becomes evident when it is much harder to pull them apart than it is to put them together... ie, it takes more torque to seperate it than was originally applied to lock them together.

HTH

DD
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DebosDave ©</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Mike,

I completely understand what you are saying about it not needing the torque if it is properly fitted, that is if it has a shoulder. The principle of the barrel (lock) nut is that it pulls the threads of the barrel back against the threads of the action, and creates a 'pinch' between the threads, almost like cutting the threads too narrow if you will, the barrel no longer turns freely because it binds. It doesn't take much torque at all on the barrel nut, therefore it is fairly easy to remove as well. It is like two pieces of a puzzle that work in conjunction to effectively lock the barrel in its place without requiring large amounts of torque to do so.

What Mike is talking about is when the surface area of the barrel shoulder and the action face are mated properly, they in effect create enough surface tension or friction that they will lock into place with very little torque applied on the barrel. This becomes evident when it is much harder to pull them apart than it is to put them together... ie, it takes more torque to seperate it than was originally applied to lock them together.

HTH

DD </div></div>

You said it better than I did....Thanks Dave....
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

Anyone tried any other type of barrel lock? Like a 12NF stud screwed in the side of the action(but flush) to pinch the barrel?
I guess the idea would be to be able to screw the barrel on to only 15ft/lbs, and use this lock screw to make sure it doesnt come loose.

Would that serve a similar purpose as the lock nut, or is it not the same as the forward pressure the nut puts on the barrel?
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

Ideally you would want the pressure around the diameter of the barrel to be the same all the way around. Not concentrated more in one spot than others. It's been proven that screwing a barrel to an action is actually an inefficient way of attaching the barrel. Unfortunately the better ways to do it are not as cost effective.
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AZPrecision</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Anyone tried any other type of barrel lock? Like a 12NF stud screwed in the side of the action(but flush) to pinch the barrel?
I guess the idea would be to be able to screw the barrel on to only 15ft/lbs, and use this lock screw to make sure it doesn't come loose.

Would that serve a similar purpose as the lock nut, or is it not the same as the forward pressure the nut puts on the barrel? </div></div>

This sounds like fail. I have a 260 Rem 700 that I could not get the damn thing to shoot at all, well I pulled it apart to check everything and when putting it back together I noticed the front mount screw to be too long. Fixed it up and haven't had a single problem from the rifle since. It was a 1 piece base and having 3 other screws I don't think the accuracy was shit due to the front not being tight. I think the screw putting uneven pressure on the barrel was causing it.
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

The nut only needs to be arm tight. I spent a good deal of time talking with customer service on this and I was ultimately impressed. This is a good example of an alternative to people (like me) who wants to build a budget tactical rifle with unbelievable accuracy, but still affordable. Bergara barrels does not guarantee a group, because there are many factors that come into play: optics, mounts, triggers, stocks, ect. What they do guarantee is your satisfaction. I am currently in the process of building a tactical rifle on a Montana 1999 action in an A5 stock with a 300 win mag Bergara barrel.
 
Re: Remington 700 rebarreling

Again this is the same principle as a savage action. Just this is with a remington, more accurate barrel, and a nice tapered nut. The same basic principles are involved.