I recently bought a rem 700 sps in 204 ruger it is bone stock and every since i have owned it it is very hard to close the bolt with a round in it empty it cycles fine but with a round in it it is hard to close. also as a note the rounds i have cycled the bolt is burring up the rim on the case pretty bad what do you think the prob. is and how do you think i should fix it i called rem. and could send it to them but turn around is six weeks right in the middle of yote season i hope i can fix it my self. any insight would be helpful thanks in advance JIM
Gunsmithing remington 700 sps bolt prob.
- Thread starter jimmyrjessie
- Start date
Re: remington 700 sps bolt prob.
its the extractor, i had the same problem a few days ago with my wifes SPS tactical. Might take a jewler's file and polish the lip on the extractor down. Go slow and check often.
its the extractor, i had the same problem a few days ago with my wifes SPS tactical. Might take a jewler's file and polish the lip on the extractor down. Go slow and check often.
Re: remington 700 sps bolt prob.
thats what i figured can you send me some pics of your proc. i am not a smith but i am a tool maker just want to make sure i attack it from the right direction thank you
thats what i figured can you send me some pics of your proc. i am not a smith but i am a tool maker just want to make sure i attack it from the right direction thank you
Re: remington 700 sps bolt prob.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300ultramag</div><div class="ubbcode-body">thats what i figured can you send me some pics of your proc. i am not a smith but i am a tool maker just want to make sure i attack it from the right direction thank you </div></div>
This has been talked about before and is nothing new with the .222 (.204) and sometimes to the others as well but not as much.
Here is what I've posted before in other threads. If you are careful you can do the mod while the extractor is still in the bolt.
<span style="color: #3366FF">99% of the time when you encounter this issue in the .223's it's the extractor. The claw is a little too long. Not sure if this is a supplier spec problem or if Remington is just not cutting the extractor grove deep enough. Order a new extractor. File down the edge of the extractor claw before you install it and you will be good to go. Remember it don't take much. Practice on the one you take out but don't use an extractor you have removed. Not a good idea to remove the extractor and put it back in. You take it out put in a new one.
The extractor has some spring to it to allow the extractor to compress and the claw to snap over the case rim. Problem is the claw is too big and once the extractor is compressed in the extractor grove it takes some force to cam over the case rim.</span>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300ultramag</div><div class="ubbcode-body">thats what i figured can you send me some pics of your proc. i am not a smith but i am a tool maker just want to make sure i attack it from the right direction thank you </div></div>
This has been talked about before and is nothing new with the .222 (.204) and sometimes to the others as well but not as much.
Here is what I've posted before in other threads. If you are careful you can do the mod while the extractor is still in the bolt.
<span style="color: #3366FF">99% of the time when you encounter this issue in the .223's it's the extractor. The claw is a little too long. Not sure if this is a supplier spec problem or if Remington is just not cutting the extractor grove deep enough. Order a new extractor. File down the edge of the extractor claw before you install it and you will be good to go. Remember it don't take much. Practice on the one you take out but don't use an extractor you have removed. Not a good idea to remove the extractor and put it back in. You take it out put in a new one.
The extractor has some spring to it to allow the extractor to compress and the claw to snap over the case rim. Problem is the claw is too big and once the extractor is compressed in the extractor grove it takes some force to cam over the case rim.</span>
Re: remington 700 sps bolt prob.
which side do i need to remove the extra material from? sorry if all this is redundent but im fairly new hear.
which side do i need to remove the extra material from? sorry if all this is redundent but im fairly new hear.
Re: remington 700 sps bolt prob.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300ultramag</div><div class="ubbcode-body">which side do i need to remove the extra material from? sorry if all this is redundent but im fairly new hear. </div></div>
The front edge of the claw. Go slow it don't take much.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300ultramag</div><div class="ubbcode-body">which side do i need to remove the extra material from? sorry if all this is redundent but im fairly new hear. </div></div>
The front edge of the claw. Go slow it don't take much.
Re: remington 700 sps bolt prob.
i am looking at the end of the bolt and have the extractor at twelve oclock is it the right edge?
i am looking at the end of the bolt and have the extractor at twelve oclock is it the right edge?
Re: remington 700 sps bolt prob.
In this pic the extractor claw is at 3 o'clock. You want to remove a little material from the front edge of the claw.(Making it shorter) It doesn’t take much so go slow.
If you’re not sure don't try this without having a replacement extractor handy or give it to someone who is more comfortable with doing it.
In this pic the extractor claw is at 3 o'clock. You want to remove a little material from the front edge of the claw.(Making it shorter) It doesn’t take much so go slow.
If you’re not sure don't try this without having a replacement extractor handy or give it to someone who is more comfortable with doing it.
Re: remington 700 sps bolt prob.
thank you for your help i will try this!
thank you for your help i will try this!
