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Remington 9 1/2 LR Primer Trouble for 22-250

Grim's Reapers

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Minuteman
Jan 24, 2024
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South Florida
I just bought 1000 Rem 9 1/2 primers for my 22-250 brass. These things are fighting me like a broken zipper. They're very hard to insert. I've tried both Remington and Winchester brass fired through the same rifle. I've tried my old Lee hand primer tool and my RCBS single stage press primer inserter. These bastards are an absolute bear to insert. I've reloaded this same brass with CCI primers many times years ago with no problem whatsoever. I'm assuming it's me, so what the hell am I doing wrong over here???
 
Measure them.
I found some CCI 250's LRM primers that I didn't remember I had. The CCI's and the Rem 9 1/2 LR are identical diameter of .211

The height of the primer is where the problem is. CCI's are .125 and the Rem's are .127

What gives? I've never used Rem 9 1/2 LR primers before, but it seems their long rifle primers should fit their own brass in 22-250 but that is not the case.

I guess I'll have to uniform the primer pockets deeper for those Remington primers. I've never had to do that before but those primers were all I could find that weren't of the magnum variety.
 
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Saami spec has a range, your numbers are within the spec. Some component combinations just work better together than others and it can vary from lot to lot.
You may want to ream the pockets deeper.
 
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which brass?
I have problems with peterson brass and european primers. very very tough to seat primers - I broke lee bench priming tool (plastic part). american primers were better.

use those primers when primer pockets get loose.
It's happening with both my Remington and Winchester 22-250 brass. Great idea for saving them. The problem is they're the only game in town right now as primers are so hard to get. I guess I'm relegated to reaming out my primer pockets. I just hate removing brass for no other reason than I can't get CCI LR primers.
 
maybe you must ''swage'' primer pocket, not ream.
if your reamer will only ream bottom of the primer pocket, than this mybe is not enough for easier priming.

and my primer pockets in 284WIN are so tight, that I can barely put my K&M primer pocket reamer into primer pocket hole !
 
maybe you must ''swage'' primer pocket, not ream.
if your reamer will only ream bottom of the primer pocket, than this mybe is not enough for easier priming.

and my primer pockets in 284WIN are so tight, that I can barely put my K&M primer pocket reamer into primer pocket hole !
Well the problem isn't the diameter, it's the depth. I measured the CCI's at .125 and the Remingtons are .127

CCI's pop right in there perfect, the Remington ones stick up above the base of the case even in their own brass, which I think is pretty stupid. LOL
 
I bought 1000 Remmington 9.5's last fall and immediately ran into trouble reloading for a friends 300 Norma. The primers were difficult to seat in Lapua brass and 30% of the rounds failed to fire. I loaded up 25 more rounds double checking that each primer was fully seated and same thing.

I switched to Federal 250's which were also difficult to seat in Lapua brass and the issue resolved itself immediately, not a single failure to fire for 50rds.

I loaded 200 rounds of 6.5prc with the 9.5's and had 2 FTF out of that batch, so quite a bit better but still not ideal.

Not sure if the cap is that hard on the 9.5's, but my suspicion was that the firing pin on my friends rifle was not striking the primer hard enough to ignite it. My ARC Nucleus managed to ignite them 99% of the time but still had a couple failures.

Either that or my hand priming tool simply isn't capable of seating them fully in brass with tight primer pockets.

I used these same primers during the pandemic on a Ruger Precision Rifle chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor and had zero issues, but I also had no difficulty seating them with the Hornady brass I was using.
 
When I have tight primer pockets I use a primer pocket uniformer, which is essentially a depth reamer. After that it's not an issue. I've been using Rem 9 1/2's for the last few years with no issue. Most of the time it seems like the bottom of the primer pocket is tapered and tight.
 
When I have tight primer pockets I use a primer pocket uniformer, which is essentially a depth reamer. After that it's not an issue. I've been using Rem 9 1/2's for the last few years with no issue. Most of the time it seems like the bottom of the primer pocket is tapered and tight.
Perhaps the issue I encountered was just a failure to get the primers fully seated.

Not sure how I feel about purchasing additional tools just to accommodate 9.5 primers when I can resolve the issue by switching to a different brand of primers.

Thanks for the feedback.
 
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Perhaps the issue I encountered was just a failure to get the primers fully seated.

Not sure how I feel about purchasing additional tools just to accommodate 9.5 primers when I can resolve the issue by switching to a different brand of primers.

Thanks for the feedback.
My contention is that it's not the primer, it the brass. But it's your choice. Primer pocket uniformers were originally developed for benchrest competitors. Their belief was using a primer pocket uniformer aided in more consistent ignition. As far as switching to a different brand of primers that's a tough proposition with today's availability. But whatever works for you.
 
I bought 1000 Remmington 9.5's last fall and immediately ran into trouble reloading for a friends 300 Norma. The primers were difficult to seat in Lapua brass and 30% of the rounds failed to fire. I loaded up 25 more rounds double checking that each primer was fully seated and same thing.

I switched to Federal 250's which were also difficult to seat in Lapua brass and the issue resolved itself immediately, not a single failure to fire for 50rds.

I loaded 200 rounds of 6.5prc with the 9.5's and had 2 FTF out of that batch, so quite a bit better but still not ideal.

Not sure if the cap is that hard on the 9.5's, but my suspicion was that the firing pin on my friends rifle was not striking the primer hard enough to ignite it. My ARC Nucleus managed to ignite them 99% of the time but still had a couple failures.

Either that or my hand priming tool simply isn't capable of seating them fully in brass with tight primer pockets.

I used these same primers during the pandemic on a Ruger Precision Rifle chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor and had zero issues, but I also had no difficulty seating them with the Hornady brass I was using.
I'm running a Remington 700 action (A 30 year old real Remington) in the 22-250 and that pin hits primers like it's mad at them. So that's definitely not a problem. I've had zero failures to fire, but had to set them in the pockets with my press. I tried the hand priming tool at first which I usually used in the past and it crippled my hand for two days. Those 9.5's were sitting .020 above the case bottom either way. I have some CCI 250s for my 7RM and tried one as a test. It popped right in there perfectly.

End result, I had to ream the shit out of my 3-4x fired brass with a KM uniforming tool to seat those bastards properly. It just didn't feel right and pissed me off watching that brass getting peeled out of my primer pockets which basically has now made my brass dedicated to those 9.5 primers which also pissed me off. And I'm generally a fairly mellow and peaceful gentleman. It does make me feel better that I'm not the only one this happened to, so thank you for your misfortune as well. :ROFLMAO:
 
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When I have tight primer pockets I use a primer pocket uniformer, which is essentially a depth reamer. After that it's not an issue. I've been using Rem 9 1/2's for the last few years with no issue. Most of the time it seems like the bottom of the primer pocket is tapered and tight.
Yeah I had to ream the shit out of my primer pockets with a KM uniforming tool which relegated my faithful brass to now only accept only those 9.5 primers. I think that's bullshit.
 
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Yeah I had to ream the shit out of my primer pockets with a KM uniforming tool which relegated my faithful brass to now only accept only those 9.5 primers. I think that's bullshit.
I've had to ream pockets for all the different brands of primers. So to each his own. Primer pocket uniformers are cheap compared to a brick of primers. But whatever you all want to do. I'm just relating what works for me.
 
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I've had to ream pockets for all the different brands of primers. So to each his own. Primer pocket uniformers are cheap compared to a brick of primers. But whatever you all want to do. I'm just relating what works for me.
Just clarifying... I didn't mean to imply that your comment was bullshit. I meant having to dedicate my brass to a specific primer was. I appreciate you taking the time to comment and offer your advice sir.
 
I'm running a Remington 700 action (A 30 year old real Remington) in the 22-250 and that pin hits primers like it's mad at them. So that's definitely not a problem. I've had zero failures to fire, but had to set them in the pockets with my press. I tried the hand priming tool at first which I usually used in the past and it crippled my hand for two days. Those 9.5's were sitting .020 above the case bottom either way. I have some CCI 250s for my 7RM and tried one as a test. It popped right in there perfectly.

End result, I had to ream the shit out of my 3-4x fired brass with a KM uniforming tool to seat those bastards properly. It just didn't feel right and pissed me off watching that brass getting peeled out of my primer pockets which basically has now made my brass dedicated to those 9.5 primers which also pissed me off. And I'm generally a fairly mellow and peaceful gentleman. It does make me feel better that I'm not the only one this happened to, so thank you for your misfortune as well. :ROFLMAO:
I've not ever used any of the Rem 9.5 primers before and I just picked up a brick to give them a try. The first thing I do is measure my primers as I know about the variances there can be in primer pocket depths along with the heights of the primers. I've never had a FTF out of my two RPR's that I reload for and I'll see how these Rem 9.5's do.

Here's examples of what I have where I measured some of my 6.5 PRC virgin Lapua and virgin Peterson cases and the difference was .008. My primer's heights were significantly different from CCI's .126" to Federal's .128" to Remington's .131".

6.5 Peterson virgin brass specs.jpg



Primers.JPG


PS: The tool I use to measure pocket depths and primer seating depths is this:

1708019141094.jpeg
 
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I've not ever used any of the Rem 9.5 primers before and I just picked up a brick to give them a try. The first thing I do is measure my primers as I know about the variances there can be in primer pocket depths along with the heights of the primers. I've never had a FTF out of my two RPR's that I reload for and I'll see how these Rem 9.5's do.

Here's examples of what I have where I measured some of my 6.5 PRC virgin Lapua and virgin Peterson cases and the difference was .008. My primer's heights were significantly different from CCI's .126" to Federal's .128" to Remington's .131".

View attachment 8349807


View attachment 8349806

PS: The tool I use to measure pocket depths and primer seating depths is this:

View attachment 8349809
That is some very useful information and thank you for sharing it. It's pretty eye opening. I did measure the CCI primers vs the Remington 9.5's and there was quite a large difference (I have it written down somewhere). There is no doubt that those Rem 9.5's are tall as I witnessed trying to seat those damned things. I run Peterson brass in my 7RM and their volume is definitely smaller than the Federal brass I used to run.
 
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That is some very useful information and thank you for sharing it. It's pretty eye opening. I did measure the CCI primers vs the Remington 9.5's and there was quite a large difference (I have it written down somewhere). There is no doubt that those Rem 9.5's are tall as I witnessed trying to seat those damned things. I run Peterson brass in my 7RM and their volume is definitely smaller than the Federal brass I used to run.
Since those measurements I've taken include how high the anvil is above the cup, you might find the cart below showing cup heights of some interest as it combined with those measurements helps me seat to where I feel I want to be:

Primer cup heights.jpg
 
Since those measurements I've taken include how high the anvil is above the cup, you might find the cart below showing cup heights of some interest as it combined with those measurements helps me seat to where I feel I want to be:

View attachment 8349895
See, here's the problem I'm having with these crappy Remington Primers. I get the same diameter as you, but look at my primer height. See photos.
 

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I've been using 91/2m's for alot of magnum loads as well as slow for caliber powder charges with excellent results. The issue for me has been their diameter is smaller so they get loose if the load is hot or domestic brands of regular brass. I have uniformed pockets on every piece of brass I have loaded for a rifle. I also only use an rcbs primer tool for precision loads. Seating the primers to the pocket will be the same for each brand of primer. This way if one is slightly below the case head it is the same for all of that lot of primers.
Don't think that if you uniform them it's for one lot of primers. My ES/SD is low single digit for most of the guns I shoot using this method. In the more tuned rifles primer brand can be changed out with very little if any change in performance. If they are all seated tight to uniformed pockets they will perform as best as the mfg made them.
3 examples
300 win mag 26" 91/2m BA 110 .820 muzzle
215hybrid coal 3.661 H1000 FPS 2944 es 6/sd1.67 (5 shots) .700 groups at 300yds are common
300wby 30" 91/2m Mark V w/Douglas XX 1.00 muzzle
225eld coal 3.920 Retumbo FPS 3106 ES 3 SD less than 1 (5Shots) has not shot a group bigger than 1.24"@ 300yds (124 rounds on this barrel)
270 win 24" 91/2 m Wby vangard .610 muzzle
140 classic coal 3.330 Rl 26 FPS 3139 ES3 SD less than 1 (5Shots) This rifle has been like this since I bought it in 1998
 
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How old are the Remington 9.5's that you measured out of curiosity?
They're dated 2023-11

See, here's the problem I'm having with these crappy Remington Primers. I get the same diameter as you, but look at my primer height. See photos.
Yeah, your primer height is the same as mine too. Looking at the primer dimension chart, the Rem's primer height is .119 (a hair higher than CCI's and Federal's), which means the anvil is sitting at .012 above the cup. In my Lapua vs Peterson comparison, that .119 is only .002 below flush for Lapua and .010 below flush for the Peterson's. Though I haven't got around to loading any of the Rem 9.5's yet, I suspect and anticipate that it's gong to take a lot of pressure to compress that anvil that far and get them seating .002 below flush (typically, I like to get the cups to at least touching the bottom of the primer pockets).

Note too that I do uniform my primer pockets to the lowest levels of the particular brass and use the uniformer to clean the pockets thereafter. The pocket uniformers will square off the bottom of the pockets, which helps with getting consistent seating. Also, I use primer seating tools that are adjustable to get the primer seating depth I'm after.
 
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They're dated 2023-11


Yeah, your primer height is the same as mine too. Looking at the primer dimension chart, the Rem's primer height is .119 (a hair higher than CCI's and Federal's), which means the anvil is sitting at .012 above the cup. In my Lapua vs Peterson comparison, that .119 is only .002 below flush for Lapua and .010 below flush for the Peterson's. Though I haven't got around to loading any of the Rem 9.5's yet, I suspect and anticipate that it's gong to take a lot of pressure to compress that anvil that far and get them seating .002 below flush (typically, I like to get the cups to at least touching the bottom of the primer pockets).

Note too that I do uniform my primer pockets to the lowest levels of the particular brass and use the uniformer to clean the pockets thereafter. The pocket uniformers will square off the bottom of the pockets, which helps with getting consistent seating. Also, I use primer seating tools that are adjustable to get the primer seating depth I'm after.
I use a K&M adjustable uniformer. I don't like having to take that much brass out of my primer pockets just to suit these Remington 9.5 primers. Once brass is removed, you can't put it back, so that relegates any brass I've uniformed to accommodate these Rem 9.5's to that primer only. Which to me is complete nonsense.
 
I use a K&M adjustable uniformer. I don't like having to take that much brass out of my primer pockets just to suit these Remington 9.5 primers. Once brass is removed, you can't put it back, so that relegates any brass I've uniformed to accommodate these Rem 9.5's to that primer only. Which to me is complete nonsense.
So, how deep is your primer pockets?

I did see where you stated that measurement.
 
So, how deep is your primer pockets?

I did see where you stated that measurement.
Most of my brass averages .129 to .130 pocket depth. Which is odd because my 22-250 brass is all Remington. So their own brass doesn't accommodate these 9.5 primers without reaming them to within .0005 of max allowable LR pocket depth which is .1320

Now my brass for 22-250 is probably 25 years old as I somewhat closeted this rifle for quite awhile until I got back into coyote busting. I then used CCI primers which fit with no issue, but was unable to find any and thus acquired a brick of these 9.5's. It's a sticky wicket. LOL
 
View attachment 8340228

Saami spec has a range, your numbers are within the spec. Some component combinations just work better together than others and it can vary from lot to lot.
You may want to ream the pockets deeper.
Note to OP;

Thanx for the heads up on this problem. I found the same problem for my Rem and Hornady brass.

According to the chart, these things (primers and brass) are just in spec.

My 9 1/2s @ long spec 0.133" with pockets 0.123"-0.129", RCBS single stage, mounted seater, apply enough force and they will seat. Use a straightedge to verify seated.

Anyway, it works for me.
 
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Note to OP;

Thanx for the heads up on this problem. I found the same problem for my Rem and Hornady brass.

According to the chart, these things (primers and brass) are just in spec.

My 9 1/2s @ long spec 0.133" with pockets 0.123"-0.129", RCBS single stage, mounted seater, apply enough force and they will seat. Use a straightedge to verify seated.

Anyway, it works for me.
Yeah I'm running a single stage RCBS Rock Chucker and those primers still won't seat all the way unless I sit on the handle and squash them in. LOL