I seen a M700 for sale with a RR serial number. Seller said the RR serial numbered actions are known to not require routine trueing. I have a few RR s/n rifles, one had primary extraction issues(LRI fixed) and the other has been good from the factory. Both shoot very well for factory actions.
I’m not out to buy this action from the seller, just curious if this is true about the RR serial numbered actions?
After doing a few thousand of these (and that is no shit) I can tell you this:
When you have the means to use top-shelf machinery for this stuff and the ability to record machine offset values (a simple program add-in known as a DPRINT) you get to see where/how stuff moves over the course of time. Most M700's, regardless of when they were produced, tend to hover around a .017" diameter circle in terms of concentricity. Parallelism and squareness can be a bit wonky at times, but its typically quite good given the volume and price point.
The biggest issue is generally the squareness of the face and its parallelism to the receiver's lug abutment features. Threads are usually pretty good/accurate in terms of pitch. The M700 with RR prefix S/N's are saw cut on the face. They've actually been that way for some time and its impressive that Remington does as good a job as they do when you consider that they knock out upwards of 2,500 of these things per
week. By and large, the biggest issue is the Primary Extraction relationship between receiver/handle. That's where the wheels really fell off on the RR series. The culprit is that the foundry changed and the tools failed to migrate to the new one. It was overlooked and we are where we are today. I only know this because I (by chance) found the two companies that did/do the work and spoke with an application engineer.
As for how this plays out for whether or not to justify the work:
That is a personal decision. I will use hot-rodded engines for my example. The GM LS platform is a very flexible powerplant that will reward its owner with impressive gains just by bolting aftermarket performance parts to it. It's been done for 20 or so years now and the proof is in the pudding. Now, that said, the guys who are hunting hard for power still spend the money to have a block forensically inspected and machined with the hopes of producing more output than a rival with the same displacement. I would like to think that the added expense is worth the reliability, longevity, and power gain.
(I can add that it certainly does matter. Changing the bore finish on a cylinder wall can easily +/- a tenth and a half off an elapsed time in drag racing. Bore seal is efficiency and that is a big deal) So, take that same ideology and apply it to this. You can bolt shit on and lay the hate at probably 90% of what is possible. If your pinching your coin purse to do this stuff, don't do a thing to the action, instead spend your dollars on a premium barrel fitted by someone well understood to know how to do this stuff at a high level. That will get you far further than throwing money at a receiver. It's only when you combine the two that you see the very small gains over just a barrel install.
Temper it by knowing also that you can easily overshadow performance gains based on the application of the gun. A nasty magnum in a light gun that is used to pile up a critter is a difficult gun to shoot well. By contrast, this latest trend of "6mm pellet guns" in the form of 20lb 6mm BRX's and Dashers is the polar opposite in terms of easy to build/shoot precision rifles. Low recoil and high mass makes a gun plumber look like a rock star without a whole lot of effort.
Hope this helps.
C.