I’m looking at getting back into long range shooting and have decided on the 300wm for those uses. The only drawback that I can find for this caliber for my purposes is the decreased barrel life compared to a 6.5 Creedmoor. I have thought about getting a separate rifle with 308/6.5 to be able to shoot/practice more. But that comes along with the cost of gun, scope, reloading supplies. Let say I do burn through a barrel in 12-1500 rounds. What is the process and the cost of putting a new barrel on it to keep within the same caliber?
- Thread starter eastridge1213
- Start date
Couple of different ways to go.
1) Have the action blueprinted so you can just have replacemnt barrels spun up for that action as needed.
2) Get the proper tools to remove your barrel and then use a Remage barrel set up.
1) Have the action blueprinted so you can just have replacemnt barrels spun up for that action as needed.
2) Get the proper tools to remove your barrel and then use a Remage barrel set up.
A stainless Remage pre fit barrel will run you around 450+ shipping, unless you want carbon fiber, then it will be around 800$. Recoil lugs will run from any ware in-between 15$ to 50$ due from thickness and manufacture. The action wrench's and go/ no-go gauges will run around another 200$.
CBI 24-26" Stainless Remage ~$300 (NSS)
Barrel Nut - $28 (NSS)
Lug - $27 (NSS)
Nut Wrench - $18 (NSS)
Torque Wrench - Free rental from Auto Parts store, Home Depot, etc
Action Wrench - $60 (NSS) - but I made my own vise with wood blocks for my Origin install. Worked great.
Go gauge - $30 (NSS)
No go - piece of tape on back of Go, ~0.004" thick
Total - $463 plus tax and probably $25 shipping from Northland. $403 if you make your own vise.
Barrel Nut - $28 (NSS)
Lug - $27 (NSS)
Nut Wrench - $18 (NSS)
Torque Wrench - Free rental from Auto Parts store, Home Depot, etc
Action Wrench - $60 (NSS) - but I made my own vise with wood blocks for my Origin install. Worked great.
Go gauge - $30 (NSS)
No go - piece of tape on back of Go, ~0.004" thick
Total - $463 plus tax and probably $25 shipping from Northland. $403 if you make your own vise.
So below 1k even for higher end? What smith would we recommended to ship whole gun out to and get back ready to go? What barrel life would a new custom barrel be like compared to factory?
Thx for all the replies. A lot of great info
Thx for all the replies. A lot of great info
If you are doing this yourself there are allways some items not listed and potential problems you may encounter that arent mentioned.
If you go the blueprint option it eliminates some if not all of the potential issues.
Like the need to purchase both an action wrench and a barrel vise.
Blueprinted you can and should have your action and recoil lug pinned to elininate needing an alignment tool.
You also dont have to worry about potentially damaging your action ( twisting) if you get one of the stubborn ones. Or having to bother with making a relief cut if it is a stubborn removal.
If you go the blueprint option it eliminates some if not all of the potential issues.
Like the need to purchase both an action wrench and a barrel vise.
Blueprinted you can and should have your action and recoil lug pinned to elininate needing an alignment tool.
You also dont have to worry about potentially damaging your action ( twisting) if you get one of the stubborn ones. Or having to bother with making a relief cut if it is a stubborn removal.
Answered you at AR15 post but will ask here too. Why the 300WM? Just wondering what you are looking to get out of it and your thought process.
Also look for an action that you can use prefit shouldered barrels and you can just screw barrels on and off easily.
Also look for an action that you can use prefit shouldered barrels and you can just screw barrels on and off easily.
I’m only ever gonna have the ability to have one long range setup. I can’t justify another purchase or afford to outfit and reload another. Possibly later in life I can snag something else but in the mean time I’m tryin to choose a caliber that can do it all. Hunting medium game is a must, larger game is a bonus but could see having the opportunity. Mostly going to be used for target practice. I feel like it’s only compromise is increased recoil, slight increase in reloading cost, and decreased barrel life. But the performance on all levels seems to offset that for me.
Even if you get your action blueprinted you’ll still need a barrel vise and action wrench. Every time the gunsmith spins up a shouldered barrel for you go ahead and assume the position and pay him the $7-$800 when he’s done.
I look at gun expenses spread out over years. It takes some of the initial sting out of things. If you’re gonna shoot enough to change barrels and you don’t like paying through the nose and waiting 6 months then you should buy a few basic tools. They’ll pay for themselves the first time you use them. I bought a barrel and everything needed to change them from (nss) northland shooter supply For just shy of $800 and they cerakoted the barrel. You’ll easily spend that on a barrel and if you get your action blueprinted that’s another $250. If you’re like me you’ll want other things done to the action so the $250 ends up closer to $500. Hell, you can get a couple of remage barrels and the tools for the same money. My advice to anyone who shoots is to avoid gunsmiths if at all possible. I probably sent my gunsmiths oldest kid through college. That was before remage barrels and chassis. Just my humble opinion
I look at gun expenses spread out over years. It takes some of the initial sting out of things. If you’re gonna shoot enough to change barrels and you don’t like paying through the nose and waiting 6 months then you should buy a few basic tools. They’ll pay for themselves the first time you use them. I bought a barrel and everything needed to change them from (nss) northland shooter supply For just shy of $800 and they cerakoted the barrel. You’ll easily spend that on a barrel and if you get your action blueprinted that’s another $250. If you’re like me you’ll want other things done to the action so the $250 ends up closer to $500. Hell, you can get a couple of remage barrels and the tools for the same money. My advice to anyone who shoots is to avoid gunsmiths if at all possible. I probably sent my gunsmiths oldest kid through college. That was before remage barrels and chassis. Just my humble opinion
I shoule have been more clear as in you would need an adequate O.D. reciever wrench for innitial removal then yes an inside reciever wrench for use with your torque wrench for installing new barrels.
We have elk hunts here and I’m tryin to keep a rifle build close to 1k-1200. White tail would be more frequent. I figure a decent scope will run me $700+ plus rings. I’ve narrowed it down to the magpul hunter stock.
You were absolutely right in what you said. There’s always the miscellaneous costs that add up and the unforeseen BS problems that have you second guessing everything you’ve done and blueprinting eliminates most of those.
6.5 will drop an elk and do all you need for less money and recoil.
