It's been over 3 years since i fired my rifle and I found it the other day with the turret up approximately 10.1 radians up from the zero stop. I can't remember what I was shooting at when I last had it out. It's an original ATACR that came out in 2013 fitted to a Remington 700 .308 with a 30 moa base. I would hate to waste a bunch of ammo trying to find paper, any recommendations?
- Thread starter apocrypha
- Start date
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Magnetic-Connection-Gunsmithing-Maintenance/dp/B07L6YYTM7 follow the green light I mean use the force Luke . even the cheaper ones for 36 dollars work for a while .
You don't need to buy anything special to boresight your system.
Step 1:
Confirm that your LOP, eye relief, and ocular focus is still good for you.
Step 2:
Make sure your scope is level.
Step 3:
Check all of your torque values (action, scope base, and scope ring crossbolts/caps). I use blue loctite on my scope ring tops and put witness marks on the heads with a silver marker.
Step 4:
Pull your bolt, aim at something across the street, secure the weapon in place (bipod and rear bag or books), look through your bore (with your eye) at something noticeable, look through your scope, dial your turrets until your reticle is looking at the same thing as your bore.
Step 5:
Go to the range and put a target at 100yds. Double check your initial bore-sighting efforts by repeating the process at 100yds on a piece of paper/target.
Step 6:
Zero your system in 6-9rds.
Step 6.5 (OPTIONAL):
Once you have your zero POA/POI, dial .5-1 mil down. This is IF you want to have a Zero Stop offset (should you run various ammo types or travel). Personally I set my zero stop at 1 mil below my (POA/POI) zero.
Step 7:
Set your zerostop and torque it to spec. If you did the zero stop offset, make sure you replace the turret cap at the # of mils you dialed under so that when you replace the cap and dial back up, your turret reads "0" and you are at your POA/POI zero. Ensure that your windage turret is also "floated/slipped" to zero.
Step 7.5: (REQUIRED IF YOU FOLLOWED STEP 6.5 ABOVE)
Dial off (aka up) the elevation you dialed to offset your zero. this will return you to your "0" mark on your turret and obviously back to your POA/POI zero.
Step 8:
Confirm your zero in order to ensure you didn't fuck anything up while setting the zero stop.
Boom, you've boresighted and zeroed in less than 12rds.
Step 1:
Confirm that your LOP, eye relief, and ocular focus is still good for you.
Step 2:
Make sure your scope is level.
Step 3:
Check all of your torque values (action, scope base, and scope ring crossbolts/caps). I use blue loctite on my scope ring tops and put witness marks on the heads with a silver marker.
Step 4:
Pull your bolt, aim at something across the street, secure the weapon in place (bipod and rear bag or books), look through your bore (with your eye) at something noticeable, look through your scope, dial your turrets until your reticle is looking at the same thing as your bore.
Step 5:
Go to the range and put a target at 100yds. Double check your initial bore-sighting efforts by repeating the process at 100yds on a piece of paper/target.
Step 6:
Zero your system in 6-9rds.
Step 6.5 (OPTIONAL):
Once you have your zero POA/POI, dial .5-1 mil down. This is IF you want to have a Zero Stop offset (should you run various ammo types or travel). Personally I set my zero stop at 1 mil below my (POA/POI) zero.
Step 7:
Set your zerostop and torque it to spec. If you did the zero stop offset, make sure you replace the turret cap at the # of mils you dialed under so that when you replace the cap and dial back up, your turret reads "0" and you are at your POA/POI zero. Ensure that your windage turret is also "floated/slipped" to zero.
Step 7.5: (REQUIRED IF YOU FOLLOWED STEP 6.5 ABOVE)
Dial off (aka up) the elevation you dialed to offset your zero. this will return you to your "0" mark on your turret and obviously back to your POA/POI zero.
Step 8:
Confirm your zero in order to ensure you didn't fuck anything up while setting the zero stop.
Boom, you've boresighted and zeroed in less than 12rds.
Last edited:
Also, you joined yesterday so be sure to go put a post in the new member section introducing yourself. Welcome to the hide.
If it was zeroed previously then perhaps dial 10.1 MILs down ?
Second what M8541Reaper said. Usually takes me around 3 or shots to zero this way. Only time I have wished I had a bore sighting device was with an AR.
Also second what AIAW said. If it's on the same gun and is dialed up 10.1 mils just dial down 10.1.
Also second what AIAW said. If it's on the same gun and is dialed up 10.1 mils just dial down 10.1.
If you have an assistant at the range, this method has worked very well for me. A good friend, a well known competitor taught me this.
I usually start at 50 yards but you can do 100 if you like.
I put a 2 inch easily visualized dot on paper as a target.
I establish the same sight picture through the scope as well as on the target through the bore.
Take one shot.
Then without moving either the rifle or yourself so that the rifle and your head on the stock is in the same place as when you took the shot....Now have your assistant moves the reticle adjustments to move the crosshair to center over the bullet hole in the target.
You should be good to go.
Some say you can do this in one shot....i usually take a second or third shot just to get it even better.
I usually start at 50 yards but you can do 100 if you like.
I put a 2 inch easily visualized dot on paper as a target.
I establish the same sight picture through the scope as well as on the target through the bore.
Take one shot.
Then without moving either the rifle or yourself so that the rifle and your head on the stock is in the same place as when you took the shot....Now have your assistant moves the reticle adjustments to move the crosshair to center over the bullet hole in the target.
You should be good to go.
Some say you can do this in one shot....i usually take a second or third shot just to get it even better.
You can do the same with an AR. Pull the rear pin and pull out the bolt. Now you can see down the barrel and do the same.
Were you messing with where the zero stop is? Return it to zero, sight down the bore and see how far off you really are.
Damn, never even had mine apart. Guess I should have looked in to that. I got it eventually but it took moving my target to 30 yards to make sure I was on paper. Learned something new now.
I doubt it was 10.1 radians. More like 10.1 milliradians.
It pays to understand your units before you're off by a factor of 1000.
Hope this doesn't come off as a d-ck comment, but may I ask why? Wouldn't that mean you have a false zero that you have to dial a bunch for every variant of ammo? .5 - 1 mil is a huge offset at 100 yds., right (1.8" - 3.6")? Is this common, or just a technique you use?
i would envision that would afford some leeway with respect to being able to accomodate varied presentations of elevations, distances and ammunition/loads without being locked out by the fixed zero stop.
Not dickish at all man and a legitimate question.
I still have a zero and my turret’s “0” is still on the index mark, however if I keep going “down” I have 1 mil (10 adjustment values) available to me, should I need it. Be it due to ammo changes, swapping the optic between a few different rifles, or suppressor use. This way I have a full mil of adjustment to play with so I’m not wasting time in the field or range un-assing my zero stop’s clutch.
I’m not losing anything in terms of adjustment value or capability/performance so it isn’t a big deal. If I’m running it at night, or in an environment where I need to get it going without looking, I just hit the stop and come up or hold 1 additional mil. As far as manipulation speed, it isn’t an issue either as holding 1 mil or adding 1 mil to my required hold is easy (example: holding 3.7 instead of 2.7 to compensate for that Zerostop mil).
The benefits outweigh the time lost working on resetting the stop due to changes. Everything is noted in my data book, in terms of 100yd offsets for various ammo, weapon systems, and suppressors. That way all I have to do is mount the scope/load the ammo/attach the can, look in my book, and see what the offset is from my baseline setup.
As for it being common, I’m not sure but it is something that is discussed about in here every now and then. Then again, most people don’t set their zero stops or even slip/float their turrets after zeroing, so I guess this isn’t that common of a thing to do lol ?
Hope that helps clarify why I do it this way. I’m not one to take offense to someone questioning why posted/recommended doing something the way I do/have done. Feel free to ask away if there’s anything else. ?
Cool, thanks. Your explanation makes sense.
I guess my thinking was that if you use a consistent cartridge, and zero to it, then you know what you're working with and can just set the stop and work up from there. Once out of the 100 yard range, one would be dialing up anyway to compensate for drop (assuming 100 yard zero). But so far I'm only using factory ammo, and have tested a few different ones to find the on that seemed to work best. I zero'd to that round.
I suppose it doesn't take long to get used to it and when you dial back at the end of a session, you know to hit the stop and just come back up 10 clicks (assuming your scope has .1 mil increments like mine). I think I can see a possible advantage if you are using multiple rounds, but gawd forbid if you ever misplace your data book!
I guess my thinking was that if you use a consistent cartridge, and zero to it, then you know what you're working with and can just set the stop and work up from there. Once out of the 100 yard range, one would be dialing up anyway to compensate for drop (assuming 100 yard zero). But so far I'm only using factory ammo, and have tested a few different ones to find the on that seemed to work best. I zero'd to that round.
I suppose it doesn't take long to get used to it and when you dial back at the end of a session, you know to hit the stop and just come back up 10 clicks (assuming your scope has .1 mil increments like mine). I think I can see a possible advantage if you are using multiple rounds, but gawd forbid if you ever misplace your data book!
Cool, thanks. Your explanation makes sense.
I guess my thinking was that if you use a consistent cartridge, and zero to it, then you know what you're working with and can just set the stop and work up from there. Once out of the 100 yard range, one would be dialing up anyway to compensate for drop (assuming 100 yard zero). But so far I'm only using factory ammo, and have tested a few different ones to find the on that seemed to work best. I zero'd to that round.
I suppose it doesn't take long to get used to it and when you dial back at the end of a session, you know to hit the stop and just come back up 10 clicks (assuming your scope has .1 mil increments like mine). I think I can see a possible advantage if you are using multiple rounds, but gawd forbid if you ever misplace your data book!
Yea I have so much 308 right now that I’m burning through 100rds of my old stuff each time I go and 20rds of my new/baseline ammo lol. Finally just burned through LC12 lots (some lots went back to 04) and about five different brands/types across two systems, one which is a 20” 1:10 and one that is a 1:12 24” (ELD, AMax, SMK, TMK, 168, 175, 178, 220, Hornady, Black Hills, FGMM, Lake City, AB, Defender). Eventually I’ll burn through it all and just shoot FGMM GM308M2 (175gr) lol.
When I’m burning through it, I do various paper drills so I’ll show up, load my baseline ammo and do a CB record, confirm zero, and confirm drop data on steel. Then I’ll load up the training ammo I’m burning through and do 100yd and 200yd grouping/positional/support/alternate positions, and offhand drills.
As for the data book being lost, everything is scanned in and saved on the computer. ...because my OCD was like “this would be a great idea” lol. I move every 2-3 years and lost/stolen gear is a risk so it helps as a backup. But even if I did, the rifle is zeroed and has 1 mil of play and it wouldn’t take more than 3rds to get my offset again.
?
Sorry to revive an old thread, just had to thank you all for the responses.
Found myself asking the same question this evening in preparation for deer season tomorrow, so I looked back because I knew I had asked you guys.
Turns out it’s dead on at the current setting, going down 1 full turn and 1 click to the zero stop puts it at zero for the previous rifle it was on. I’ve switched it from one rifle to the other and found this to be true. This is just a reminder to myself to write a note so I don’t forget this all again.
Found myself asking the same question this evening in preparation for deer season tomorrow, so I looked back because I knew I had asked you guys.
Turns out it’s dead on at the current setting, going down 1 full turn and 1 click to the zero stop puts it at zero for the previous rifle it was on. I’ve switched it from one rifle to the other and found this to be true. This is just a reminder to myself to write a note so I don’t forget this all again.
Similar threads
