So I am looking at building a bolt gun or buying a rifle and putting it into a chassis. Right now I shoot an ar15 with a 20” Krieger 1 in 7.7 with a vortex viper 25 power on it and it shoot half moa at 100, the guys that I shoot with said I should get a bigger caliber that bucks wind better but my concern is my shoulder I have a genetic deletion that means when I was born I only have 1/8th of a shoulder socket so I have to be very careful. I was thinking of buying a trued Remington stainless action and sticking with 223 but any input would be appreciated
Rifle build questions
- Thread starter mese341
- Start date
Most of the 6mm calibers used in PRS are very low recoil. The bolt rifles are a lot heavier than your AR, so even though it's a bigger cartridge and a heavier bullet it's still very low recoil. Tactical steel is a recoil mitigation game since you are your own spotter.
6mm Dasher, Creedmoor, XC, BR, BRA, BRX, etc. are all really low recoil, especially out of a heavier rifle. All fly WAY better than 5.56.
6mm Dasher, Creedmoor, XC, BR, BRA, BRX, etc. are all really low recoil, especially out of a heavier rifle. All fly WAY better than 5.56.
Boy, lots of options. You could get a Tikka CTR or Varmint and throw it into something like a KRG Bravo stock if you want something simple, quick and great quality. The Tikka comes with a 1:8 twist barrel so you could load heavier bullets. If you like the idea of a build, you could go the "Remage" route and get a trued up Rem 700 action and but a barrel of your choice from Criterion, McGowan, etc. and spin it on yourself with the various nut systems. Could be a fun project! Then there's always the route of having a smith put together what ever you want, but that could take months these days.
Like others said, something like a 6mmBR Norma might be a neat option with some bigger bullets than .223 (easier to see on target) with much better BC's while still having low recoil. Especially if it's built on a heavy gun (full profile barrel in a longer length 26"-30"). Do you intend to reload for this rifle?
I would be loading for it and would recomend useing a Weatherby Vanguard action that I have or selling the rifle and buying a trued Remington action and going the remage route my shooting buddy said that the vanguard action was better then Remington but I would like your guys opinion
If you like the weatherby then stick with it. Not as much aftermarket support as the rem 700 but it has its fair share. The weatherby vanguard is just a howa 1500 so it can go in any stock that a howa will. I would call up criterion and order a 6br howage in a 7.5 twist 26" bull contour. Itll eat up that recoil. Even more so with a brake or silencer. The 6br is about as mild as you can get without being a 223.
Illput a disclaimer on my last post and say that if the weatherby has a .473 bolt face I would build a br.
If its a .384 bolt face then build it as a fast twist 223 or 223ai for heavies or get a different action. Not worth it to open the bolt face and try and convert the weatherby action to something its not already set up for.
If its a .384 bolt face then build it as a fast twist 223 or 223ai for heavies or get a different action. Not worth it to open the bolt face and try and convert the weatherby action to something its not already set up for.
Long ago, I worked with an old cowboy from Beaumont, Texas....
He had a saying.... "What you want".. "What you need" and ... "What you can afford"....
Somewhere in that equation lies your answer.
Best of luck with your choice.
Hobo
He had a saying.... "What you want".. "What you need" and ... "What you can afford"....
Somewhere in that equation lies your answer.
Best of luck with your choice.
Hobo
To be honest, I'm not all that fond of Remington. Mainly because of poor machine work and they are not the bargain 700s either, a VS-SF, VS-Sendero and a 700P. They shoot well with handloads but for the money I would expect better fit and finish. Yeah, they can be cleaned up by a good smith but they should have been right to begin with.
For a light recoiling rifle, unless you plan on hunting larger game just stick with a .223. Howa, Tikka and CZ all make decent rifles in various styles. Little secret about everyone being fascinated by heavy bullets in a .223. A 40 gr Nosler BT or Hornady V-max at 3600 fps (what I get out of a 26" barrel) has better ballistics out to past 300 yards than any heavier higher BC bullet. It's simply due to the velocity. Getting out to 400 yards or so the advantage shifts to the heavies. Don't believe it? Check the data.
Anyhow, the Howa is available in several configurations and is gaining an aftermarket,. Same with the Tikka. The CZs come in a bunch of configurations but the aftermarket is limited. Also more expensive to rebarrel because it is a Mauser action with the Mauser style extractor requiring an extractor cut in the barrel.
You could consider going to a lot of other chamberings with a heavier rifle and a muzzle brake but a .223 is cheaper to shoot than pretty much anything except rimfire, and it's the least expensive to reload for.
For a light recoiling rifle, unless you plan on hunting larger game just stick with a .223. Howa, Tikka and CZ all make decent rifles in various styles. Little secret about everyone being fascinated by heavy bullets in a .223. A 40 gr Nosler BT or Hornady V-max at 3600 fps (what I get out of a 26" barrel) has better ballistics out to past 300 yards than any heavier higher BC bullet. It's simply due to the velocity. Getting out to 400 yards or so the advantage shifts to the heavies. Don't believe it? Check the data.
Anyhow, the Howa is available in several configurations and is gaining an aftermarket,. Same with the Tikka. The CZs come in a bunch of configurations but the aftermarket is limited. Also more expensive to rebarrel because it is a Mauser action with the Mauser style extractor requiring an extractor cut in the barrel.
You could consider going to a lot of other chamberings with a heavier rifle and a muzzle brake but a .223 is cheaper to shoot than pretty much anything except rimfire, and it's the least expensive to reload for.
Are you going to be shooting farther than 100 yards?
Your AR sounds like it's doing the job for that.
If you want to shoot 400 yards, I would say stick with it. Somewhere between 400 and 800 yards you'll notice the downside of .223.
What you should use depends on what you want out of it and your shoulder is another factor.
Your AR sounds like it's doing the job for that.
If you want to shoot 400 yards, I would say stick with it. Somewhere between 400 and 800 yards you'll notice the downside of .223.
What you should use depends on what you want out of it and your shoulder is another factor.
6mmBR is definitely ideal for those distances, the brass will last a long time, it's a super accurate case. Like mentioned, get a Area 419 brake and a heavy-ish barrel, maybe some Primal rights mag kits and you are GTG. I'd lean towards a Bighorn Origin action and Trigger tech trigger.
The 6mm BR would be the ticket then. An extremely accurate cartridge, high quality brass and bullets, plenty of excellent barrel makers. For the price I've had good luck with Stiller actions, basically a 700 SA footprint. Plenty of other 700 clones too. Some are tighter tolerance for accuracy (bench queens) and some are a little looser for reliability in field use. If you are looking at only target shooting a single shot solid bottom option makes for a stiffer receiver and has more bedding area. Depends on what your intended use is. Don't skip on the barrel and smithing. Nice thing about a 700 clone is the number of stocks that will fit is huge.
Scopes? If you're banging steel its one thing, if you're printing groups on paper that's another. I shoot long range so it's high magnification SFP. Your needs probably vary.
I fully agree with the 6mm BR. My 60lb kid shoots my dad's 12lb 6brx without a grimace, add a suppressor and he's going to run through all the ammo he can.
I'd lean towards a rem clone, and aics mags. I've had really good luck with 6mm br feeding out of polymer mags, and now that magpul is making them they're cheap and plentiful.
I would stick with the .223 for a while. With good ammo, 600 yards should not be too bad. At the least it will give you a good idea of how much the ballistics need to improve to do what you want.
If it looks like what you want will take more than a ballistics improvement, get some good training.
