Fieldcraft Rifle Painting ?s

[AJBello]

I plan on painting my rifle within the next week or so:

I intend to use the method laid out in Trigger Monkey's "Rifle Painting Tutorial" thread: TM's Paint Thread . I did however have some specific technique questions that I was hoping to get some input on...

I will be using Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II in "Coyote" as my base coat. After that I'll use Rustoleum Camo in "earth brown" and "deep forest green" to add the overspray. My reasoning here is I want a more durable base coat, that will hopefully last longer than standard krylon would. I don't mind using standard rattle can for the overspray as I could more easily adjust it or do touch-ups as needed. Also, I am hoping that I would be able to strip the overspray rattle-can layer if needed without hurting the base coat of aluma-hyde? I'm not sure if that will be possible or not, but I like the theory

. I do not care to mess with a "bake on" finish for the base coat, thus my selection of the aluma-hyde II. I've read several threads on the merits and shortfalls of the aluma-hyde. From what I gathered, surface prep and long cure times are critical with the AH, and I will make it so.

The specific questions I have are in relation to painting on the base coat, and mating surfaces. Specifically, where the rail / rings meet, where the scope / rings meet, and where the action / bedding meets. From what I've read the AH2 has a thickness about like spray paint. What do you guys think about putting paint on these mating surfaces, or leaving them bare? IE, tape off the inside of the rings, paint the rings / rail with the rings on... or fully disassemble and paint all surfaces? If I painted the bottom of the action, would the added thickness create stress with the bedding?

I'm still trying to work up the nerve to paint the USO along with everything else. Not sure I'm quite there yet!

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Re: Rifle Painting ?s

I wouldn't recommend the Brownells Alumahyde II, I've used it twice and never really liked the finished product. In my opinion it takes too long to cure and there are better products on the market that are more durable and dry faster. When I painted my rifles in krylon, I made sure that mating surfaces such as the inside of the rings, lugs, and picatinny rail were free from paint so as not to hinder metal to metal contact. I can't really comment on how painting the action and then placing it back into a stock that was bedded with an unpainted action will effect accuracy. The closest I've come to doing that was stripping an action that was painted in duracoat and then refinishing it in a different color duracoat and placing it back in the stock, I didn't really see any effect on accuracy from that.

Honestly, I'd just follow the tutorial and paint everything as is in the picture, taping off the important parts of course. The stock finish on the FN barreled action is pretty good and cleans up very nicely with some Acetone and elbow grease. After that it can be repainted in any color of your choosing which is the beauty of the whole idea.

Case in point:
Painted:

After Cleaning:

I'm going to bust your balls for a minute and say that I find it hilarious when people try to find ways to make krylon/rattle can jobs more durable so that it preserves the prettiness. Just paint it and get back to shooting, if it wears down, like it's supposed to, repaint it.

 

[veezer]

Re: Rifle Painting ?s

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Trigger Monkey</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> The closest I've come to doing that was stripping an action that was painted in duracoat and then refinishing it in a different color duracoat and placing it back in the stock.
After Cleaning:

</div></div>

what did you use to remove the old duracoat?

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Re: Rifle Painting ?s

Veezer PM sent.

 

[AJBello]

Re: Rifle Painting ?s

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Trigger Monkey</div><div class="ubbcode-body">...
I'm going to bust your balls for a minute and say that I find it hilarious when people try to find ways to make krylon/rattle can jobs more durable so that it preserves the prettiness. Just paint it and get back to shooting, if it wears down, like it's supposed to, repaint it. </div></div>

The desire for a more durable finish isn't to "preserve the prettiness" per say. However, I don't want to have to repaint the rifle frequently, and would like something that isn't going to chip / peel easily or excessively. Also, I had a Win 70 Stealth that I kryloned a few times, one coat over another, and don't wish to build that much paint up on this rifle.

I don't mind honest wear, in fact I welcome it, but I would still rather have a little more durable base coat. If that means I just want my rifle "pretty", then ball bust away!

I think I will leave the action in the stock and paint without disassembling. Likewise, I think I'll remove the scope, tape off the inside surface of the rings, and paint the rail with rings on. Thanks for the input! The paint on that FN looks very nice by the way, well done...

 

[Little Bill]

Re: Rifle Painting ?s

I did the Krylon treatment too, but was curious about doing Alumahyde next time. I guess I will stick to good ole Krylon...

 

[Guest]

Re: Rifle Painting ?s

Take the stock off. Leave the scope and everything else assembled. Tape the trigger assembly. Tape the pertinent parts of the scope. Leave the scope caps on, and stuff cotton balls inside the scope caps to keep paint off the glass. Paint until satisfied. Untape scope, and lightly dust over the black areas left by tape to knock it down. Done.

Rattle can is durable enough for the job. It will wear off, but it takes a lot longer that people seem to realize.

 

[afd77]

Re: Rifle Painting ?s

I don't paint my scopes, in case I ever need to switch them between rifles. I leave everything together, and then put pop bottle caps in the rings and tighten them completely shut. They fit perfect inside 30 mm rings, and that way the mating surfaces between the rings and the scope are unchanged by the finish.

 

[DoSqH]

Re: Rifle Painting ?s

Do you paint the rifle with the bolt in and closed?

 

[96C]

Re: Rifle Painting ?s

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JakeB</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do you paint the rifle with the bolt in and closed? </div></div>

I paint mine with the bolt out and the gaps taped. I know its a 1% thing but I avoid getting paint in / on any moving parts.

 

[pevrs114]

Re: Rifle Painting ?s

I painted an old beater 870 as a prelude to doing an AR, and soon to do my 700. I used some of the basic rifle painting tutorials here and on AR15.com and had great success. I used Krylon with tan as a base coat and dark brown and OD with pine straw patterns thrown in.

I used the gun for an entire hunting season, probably 2-3 times out in the field a week, both deer and predator hunting. I had to touch it up twice during the season, and both times it was only for a few SMALL chips in the paint, mostly on the end of the barrel and on the receiver from bouncing around in the truck.

 

[marduk185]

Re: Rifle Painting ?s

just be sure to make them resemble poo as this will subliminally divert unwanted attentions from ones enemies.