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Ring height and rifle set up

sarcasmn

Private
Banned !
Minuteman
Jan 22, 2008
54
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57
Georgia
I am making a build and am wondering about ring height. I have always been a scope as low as I could get it kinda guy but I am questioning that. I notice that I always end up craning my neck forward on hunting and tactical rifles. Part of this is that I think I have been wrong about my correct length of pull. I always thought it was 13.5 inches but I am thinking that might be too long. Part of this is I shot the rifle and stock that was issued to me and we were lucky to ever get to train at more than three hundred yards. I am 5'6 200 lbs with a 49 inch chest and a bull neck in decent shape for an old retired flatfoot.

I have a Bergara 22lr in a KRG Bravo stock that I have shortened to the max and seem to be shooting that better and more comfortably than my other rifles. My new build is a Vudoo in a XLR chassis with a Cronus BTR Gen ii 4.5-29x56. The rifle came with a 30 moa scope base so I think that will be good for a start. I am sure there is better stuff out there but the budget is what it is.

I have noticed a trend in the PRS builds that the scopes are getting higher. I plan to shoot some local NRL22 and PRs matches with this rifle but am really interested in extra long distance shooting. One of my reasons for the XLR is that I can adjust it a lot and find what's best for me. Is there an advantage to going up a step from the lowest rings possible? Is there some way to learn properly set up my rifle for me?

I have always learned a lot on this site and now that I have the time to really apply myself I want to learn Extra long distance shooting starting with 22lr. Any thoughts?
 
1) MPA has a video for setting up their MPA chassis that discusses proper "length of pull", I realize that's not the stock/chassis you're using, but it will give you a good idea of what your's should be.



2) I have that same scope on top of my Vudoo with a 40 MOA base, and wish I had a 50 MOA base, could probably get away with a 60 MOA base, but I want to see if I'll need to dial farther than what it's capable of as is.

3) I'm a put the rings at the best height for you to shoot comfortably, generally for me that means the lower the better. Considering the size of the bell on a 56mm objective lens with the Cronus, I use Warne Mountain Tech "medium" rings, model 7221.
 
There is no advantage to having the scope as low as possible. Set it where you are comfortable and can shoot it that way. If it's a 1/2" off the barrel then so be it. Scope height is just another input in the ballistic program.
 
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You want rings that are high enough to where your head is not canted as you noted. I usually end up with the highest rings you can buy. Of course everyone has their way so if it works for you...
 
I’ve always been a low scope guy from the use of non-adjustable sporter stocks, and trying to keep decent cheek contact.
Now with adjustable cheekpiece stocks, I’m going as low as possible without bolt handle or barrel contact.
When shooting through barricades a short gun (from highest point of scope, to bag or rail contact on the bottom) may be easier to navigate, especially tight spots like folding chairs.
If strictly ELR or F-class it’s likely irrelevant.
 
Same thought on scope height when shooting barricades. Keeping as low as possible allows you to get into tighter spaces with a bag. I’m in a low Spuhr with a Vortex Razor and still bang the scope on barricades.
 
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You mentioned having to crane your neck forward; that sounds more like an eye relief issue than a scope height problem, assuming you have an adjustable cheek piece. There are different schools of thought on the optimum eye relief location (moving the scope forwards or rearwards), but I personally find it much easier to crane my neck forward than to "turtle" it backwards. So, I tend to set my eye relief in the prone (where my head is farthest forward), and just crane a bit forward in more vertical positions.

Sorry if I misunderstood your statement, and I don't disagree with anything above that's been said about scope height. If you have an adjustable cheek piece:

A) It's just another input in your ballistic solver
B) Getting your head more vertical with more scope height is great in the standing/kneeling positions but could be pretty uncomfortable in the prone, and
C) Always make sure to leave enough room for scope caps, the bolt knob, etc., when going with a low mount setup.
 
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And a 1/4” difference in ring height, which is what would probably be your difference will not effect shooting in tighter spots. It will make it more comfortable to do so.
 
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I am sure my low scope height ideas come from growing up with hunting rifles. The lack of cheek piece makes you want to get as low as possible.
 
I am sure my low scope height ideas come from growing up with hunting rifles. The lack of cheek piece makes you want to get as low as possible.
I just started putting Kydex cheek pieces on everything.