Rings V. One-Piece Mounts for NRL/PRS?

[Sblzrd65]

Looking at getting into NRL22/PRS. For carbines I'm used to a cantilever one-piece. Am navigating the newer to me world of "grown up rimfire". Looking to get a 30mm tube on a piece of rail. Are rings the default or is it worth upgrading to a once piece? And while not looking to cheap out on rings, does rimfire really need a $200 set of rings?

Seems like some of the options in the $75-$150 are:
Vortex Pro (made by Seekin I think?)
Seekins
Warne 514M

Then in the $175-200 plus range are the Zeiss, Nightforce, Spuhr, etc.

 

[camocorvette]

Depends on your budget and wants.
I've seen every style of rings and one piece mounts at matches. I've rocked a M-Brace on my Anschutz for a bit. But found its chunckyness induced malfunctions by bouncing brass back into the action. Now I run a set of nightforce 6 screw ultralight 1.5's.

Check the px for used rings. That's were I got mine. Way cheaper then new and nothing wrong with them.

But remember, rings give you alittle more mounting options on spacing. A mount with only fit so many places. If it's a chunky mount like an mbrace (which I love) I wouldn't put it on a 22 if it's gonna sit right above the action.

 

[camocorvette]

*and to add.

As long as their quality mounts it doesn't matter. The brands listed will work just fine. You don't need a 400$ mount to hold a scope.

 

[Buckhead]

I have used cheap Arken and Vortex rings for 22 matches. Also Seekins and higher end MDT. I have also use some Chinese rings that I got for $15 on Amazon. Did not see one bit of difference in performance or accuracy. Centerfire that’s a whole different story.

 

[Rob01]

Looking at getting into NRL22/PRS. For carbines I'm used to a cantilever one-piece. Am navigating the newer to me world of "grown up rimfire". Looking to get a 30mm tube on a piece of rail. Are rings the default or is it worth upgrading to a once piece? And while not looking to cheap out on rings, does rimfire really need a $200 set of rings?

Seems like some of the options in the $75-$150 are:
Vortex Pro (made by Seekin I think?)
Seekins
Warne 514M

Then in the $175-200 plus range are the Zeiss, Nightforce, Spuhr, etc.

Either rings or a mount will work fine. For a rimfire you can use something less expensive like the Arken rings if you wanted. Most mounts worth using will start around the $150+ mark as you usually don;t want a 1.5" height AR stule mount which are usually the cheaper ones.

The Vortex Pro are not made by Seekins. The Vortex PMR are. The Warnes will work too. Looking in the PX is a good idea as mentioned also.

 

[Sblzrd65]

Either rings or a mount will work fine. For a rimfire you can use something less expensive like the Arken rings if you wanted. Most mounts worth using will start around the $150+ mark as you usually don;t want a 1.5" height AR stule mount which are usually the cheaper ones.

The Vortex Pro are not made by Seekins. The Vortex PMR are. The Warnes will work too. Looking in the PX is a good idea as mentioned also.

Appreciate the info. Warne's got a 40% off code for PRS so will probably go that route then.

 

[Alabusa]

All I use on every rifle I own is Burris XTR Signature rings. They allow you to add up to 40moa cant with the inserts that go in them. They hold like a bank vault and leave zero ring marks.

On my 22lr, I have a 25moa rail and another 25moa in the rings. I am still zeroed at 50.

 

[Rippey715]

What scope are you using? That will help decide cant. For instance, CCI SV at 325yds needs 15.1 mils for me. So if your scope doesn’t have that much elevation you will need to look into canted rails and possibly a mount with cant as well. I would just plan on getting a mount with 20 moa anyway. As for ring height, low mounted scopes work really well for stable prone shooting. Guess what you rarely get to do during a prs course of fire. Higher mounts like a 1.5” offer extra flexibility and a more heads up position/chin weld for more compromising shooting positions. Maybe something to try. Some like it and some don’t. Good luck

 

[Sblzrd65]

What scope are you using? That will help decide cant. For instance, CCI SV at 325yds needs 15.1 mils for me. So if your scope doesn’t have that much elevation you will need to look into canted rails and possibly a mount with cant as well. I would just plan on getting a mount with 20 moa anyway. As for ring height, low mounted scopes work really well for stable prone shooting. Guess what you rarely get to do during a prs course of fire. Higher mounts like a 1.5” offer extra flexibility and a more heads up position/chin weld for more compromising shooting positions. Maybe something to try. Some like it and some don’t. Good luck

Vortex Diamondback Tactical 6-24x50, 30mm tube. My light understanding is that with a 20-30 moa rail piece I should be good out to say 200-ish. Plan is for medium height rings at this point. A friend has a CS 455 with low rings and he's run into issues with replacement/upgraded bolt throws not working.

 

[Rippey715]

Vortex Diamondback Tactical 6-24x50, 30mm tube. My light understanding is that with a 20-30 moa rail piece I should be good out to say 200-ish. Plan is for medium height rings at this point. A friend has a CS 455 with low rings and he's run into issues with replacement/upgraded bolt throws not working.

If your carbine rings are 1.5 and 30mm and your friend has low on his CZ you could probably set something up to figure out in a day, what height feels most comfortable. Shoot a barricade or tank trap style stage. Just something with various positions.

As to the scope. It’s a good entry and should work fine. Looks like it has 19 total mils of elevation. So what this means is once it’s zeroed it will probably have around 9 up and 9 down for elevation dialing. So if 200 yards needed 8.1 you’d probably be ok. But with a canted base and mount you can make this much better. A 20 moa cant will give you about 6 mils extra adjustment up. So now instead of almost being maxed out at 200 yards you’d have 6 more mils. This is also important because most scopes have their best clarity somewhere in the mid range and quality degrades towards each extreme end. So when dialing to hit a far target it’s better if you are more to the middle than the end.
I run a MDT 20 rail and MBrace 20 moa mount at 1.5”

Hope this helps.

 

[DFOOSKING]

Of I'm not mistaken, those Diamondbacks don't have zero stop or a rev indicator (not sure on that last one).

I've seen many quickly move the Diamondbacks because in a match they end up getting lost in the revs or try to return to zero when finished and underspin or overspin the knob a full rev.

 

[Sblzrd65]

Of I'm not mistaken, those Diamondbacks don't have zero stop or a rev indicator (not sure on that last one).

I've seen many quickly move the Diamondbacks because in a match they end up getting lost in the revs or try to return to zero when finished and underspin or overspin the knob a full rev.

Appreciate the heads up on the rev indicator. This is my first foray into anything greater powered than a LVPO so am sure there will be many notes and upgrades as I start.