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I have one. Not sure the exact model your looking at but mine does have the 20” barrel in 308. It’s a decently heavy profile - .936” at end of muzzle. I switched the Buttstock out to a Luth MBA 1. It came with a standard M16 style non adjustable stock. I also had to switch the gas block. This is a Superlative Arms adjustable bleed off block. Was servely over gassed with the suppressor on normal block. Works like a charm now. The rifle came with a brake. Think they call it the operator brake. With the teeth on the end for messing someone’s day up or Breeching I’d assume. I took that off right away because I like my gun cases and that would cut the crap out of them. The barre threads are 5/8-24 but did have a slight shoulder at the base of the threads. The brake fit over it but the suppressor did not. Had to remove those as well.
If you plan to leave as is this is a great rifle. Shot 1/2 MOA at 100 with some duty ammo. Federal GMM in 168 SMK. I did reload for it but could not get the action to not cause bullet movement. When it slammed shut on the next round it worked like a bullet puller and moved the bullet about .010”. My other rifles are bolts guns and I don’t crimp those so maybe I wasn’t using enough crimp but I set it as tight as I could and with a cannelure it still moved a bit. I just use the rifle for hunting so I switched to 165 hornady sst factory rounds and just let the brass fly.
If I was to do it again I would have gone with a build my local custom shop had for just a hair bit more money. That would have fit my suppressor without modifying the rifle which cost me more because I had them knock the shoulder off the threads etc.
But now that’s it’s set up I love the rifle. A bit heavy if your going to carry it but shoots like a dream. It always get shot suppressed. Not sure it would cycle Unsuppressed without adjusting the gas block.
It’s getting a Burris xtrII very soon. I’ve shot to 500 with the setup you see pictures, just a drop reticle Burris Fullfield E1 and it will hold MOA and drop any critter at that distance with the SST.
Some stuff for RRA is proprietary so swapping out stuff can be an issue. But everything you see here works on mine. The mags are an FAL pattern of that matters to you.
Again I’m very happy with the rifle but had to do a bit of work to it to get to what you see in the pictures
Edit: I also love the trigger on it. It’s not a jewel by any means, if I remember correctly it’s a 2- stage actually. But it’s the smoothest stock AR trigger I have (3 AR’s total).
If you plan to leave as is this is a great rifle. Shot 1/2 MOA at 100 with some duty ammo. Federal GMM in 168 SMK. I did reload for it but could not get the action to not cause bullet movement. When it slammed shut on the next round it worked like a bullet puller and moved the bullet about .010”. My other rifles are bolts guns and I don’t crimp those so maybe I wasn’t using enough crimp but I set it as tight as I could and with a cannelure it still moved a bit. I just use the rifle for hunting so I switched to 165 hornady sst factory rounds and just let the brass fly.
If I was to do it again I would have gone with a build my local custom shop had for just a hair bit more money. That would have fit my suppressor without modifying the rifle which cost me more because I had them knock the shoulder off the threads etc.
But now that’s it’s set up I love the rifle. A bit heavy if your going to carry it but shoots like a dream. It always get shot suppressed. Not sure it would cycle Unsuppressed without adjusting the gas block.
It’s getting a Burris xtrII very soon. I’ve shot to 500 with the setup you see pictures, just a drop reticle Burris Fullfield E1 and it will hold MOA and drop any critter at that distance with the SST.
Some stuff for RRA is proprietary so swapping out stuff can be an issue. But everything you see here works on mine. The mags are an FAL pattern of that matters to you.
Again I’m very happy with the rifle but had to do a bit of work to it to get to what you see in the pictures
Edit: I also love the trigger on it. It’s not a jewel by any means, if I remember correctly it’s a 2- stage actually. But it’s the smoothest stock AR trigger I have (3 AR’s total).
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Thanks. This one has no threads and an M4 stock. Will put a better stock on it for sure.
No plans to suppress any time soon. Suppressors are "too scary" according to my chief and this will be in rotation on our sniper team most likely. Got it last night and threw a bipod and an old 20x super sniper on it. Shoots FGMM 168's as good as my Ruger Precision does. Now to start saving for a better buttstock and scope.
Wish I had something to add other than Ive been looking at the 308A1521X in particular. I got quoted for $1540 through my local shop which I thought was a great price for an AR10 style rifle. Looking at everything else for $1500 in the market, you know its a great price.
The only thing I just don't like about this model is the barrel is CRYOGENICALLY treated and not threaded. Per RRA, the barrel is not to be threaded after its been CRYOGENICALLY treated and they wont thread it for you during the build. :/
The only thing I just don't like about this model is the barrel is CRYOGENICALLY treated and not threaded. Per RRA, the barrel is not to be threaded after its been CRYOGENICALLY treated and they wont thread it for you during the build. :/
Mine has a Wilson barrel on it. So you could always look at something else as far as upper/lower combo. My rifle is accurate and I would think a upper with a good brand barre would be just as good.
Like I said I own the RRA above. If I did it again I would buy/build something with a threaded barrel, and check to see if my TBAC Ultra 9 fit on the factory threads or have it threaded before installing. And I would get an adjustable gas block from the start.
You can always use a thread protector and leave the gas block open. This gives you the ability to suppress or add a brake/Flash Hider etc without needing to modify the rifle. Screw the can on, adjust the gas block and go.
You may never intend to suppress something where the threads and gas block are needed but if you told me 10 years ago that I would have what I have now for suppressors and AR rifles I’d think your nuts. But wants/needs change.
Like I said I own the RRA above. If I did it again I would buy/build something with a threaded barrel, and check to see if my TBAC Ultra 9 fit on the factory threads or have it threaded before installing. And I would get an adjustable gas block from the start.
You can always use a thread protector and leave the gas block open. This gives you the ability to suppress or add a brake/Flash Hider etc without needing to modify the rifle. Screw the can on, adjust the gas block and go.
You may never intend to suppress something where the threads and gas block are needed but if you told me 10 years ago that I would have what I have now for suppressors and AR rifles I’d think your nuts. But wants/needs change.
I don't think it is a wise choice.
FAL rifles have their feed lips in the upper receiver, the magazine lips just hold the cartridges in before the magazine is inserted.
AR feed lips are on the magazine so the LAR8 is relying on magazine lips that were never intended to be feed lips.
I'm not sure how that works out in practice but the fact that only Rock River does it says something to me.
SR25 magazines are plentiful and cheap with the Magpul offering which to me was one of the bigger factors that along with better parts compatibility and multiple sources pushed me toward LR308 pattern rifles.
FAL rifles have their feed lips in the upper receiver, the magazine lips just hold the cartridges in before the magazine is inserted.
AR feed lips are on the magazine so the LAR8 is relying on magazine lips that were never intended to be feed lips.
I'm not sure how that works out in practice but the fact that only Rock River does it says something to me.
SR25 magazines are plentiful and cheap with the Magpul offering which to me was one of the bigger factors that along with better parts compatibility and multiple sources pushed me toward LR308 pattern rifles.
I had one, it was an absolute tack driver. Seriously one of the most accurate rifles I've owned, 1/4 MOA at 100 yards with 168 grn Hornady AMAX TAP. Sent the rifle back to RRA, they threaded the barrel for me, when I got it back it was still a beauty but putting the suppressore on it went to shit. Rifle went back to RRA and they found they were not concentric at the muzzle with the machine work and fixed it. Went through a lot of drama later with a gem tec suppressor, but the rifle was a beast for accuracy. The mags.... not my first choice but they worked fine. I've found RRA to be a great company to work with in a LE capacity.
Mine is in 6.5CM. Bought it a couple years ago when they were running a special on the model. Paid 1080? or so. Shoots under 1 MOA w/factory ammo. I've been happy with it since day one. When time comes will change its barrel from 20" to 24" (which they offer now). To be totally honest, it is a very proprietary arm. So I would be careful if I planned to make a lot of custom changes to it. Which I don't. I think it to be a high quality robust firearm.
FWIW, lg
FWIW, lg
Elfster? He's the guy to talk to about RRA. He's had great results with 'em, it's hard to knock 'em with him around.
Now the use of FAL mags in an AR is, uh, a no-go IMHO. For one, those magazines are now expensive and hard to find if you want good, quality Austrian, IMI or FN mags (I don't know how well the new DSA mags work or what tooling they were made on). Not all FAL mags are the same, Austrian and IMI are the best with the blued FN mags being good but more of a collector item than something to use.
Ten years ago I bought up all my Austrian and IMI mags and got four modified 30rd Bren mags too. Now the Bren mags are over $100 IF you can find one for sale, and the quality Austrian and IMI mags will surely be going for more than the ~$20ea. I paid for 'em.
I've heard problems with feeding in those rifles, if you can imagine that. Now as to whether the mag has lips that feed the rifle or not, I say they do, though the process is a bit different that AR's.
KAC mags are cheap (about $60 ea.) IF you have a military account with them and place a big enough order. I got killer deals on my gear that way. I got an SR25 and let me tell you, it's well worth saving for that bad boy, you won't be sorry. Buy once, cry once. I love mine. And save for a can too, the can that goes with that rifle is really nice and they make a few including a new precision rifle can. They're super simple and all ratchet on/off one hand and index TDC each time. If you get the MAMS brake, that's just the titties and there's nothing like it, it really works.
The FN Mk20 is another good deal to save for and people have been claiming groups as good as and some better than the SR25. But it's hard on scopes I hear. It uses it's own FN mags, going for about $4000, so a little less than the SR25 (unless you get a deal).
Both of those rifles will retain their resale value and there was a guy recently that instead of selling his SR25, he parted the whole thing out here in the PX for MORE than it was worth new! Because of the proprietary parts, parts like that are rare to come by and they don't sell large frame lowers, period. So he made a killing on that! Made me want to order another and part mine out!
Then there are plethora of options for built to builds. Personally I went with the SR25 for two reasons, one I always wanted an SR25 and two, I wanted a quality large frame I didn't have to build since nothing is standardized. SR25 is mostly proprietary but it doesn't matter for me, it's the only big frame I have; the proprietary parts also serve a purpose, they improve on older ideas. And it's a good one, only part I changed was the grip to a MIAD. Fully ambi, all built in, 20" heavy cut rifled Krieger barrel (they have two 16" too, one chrome lined and lightweight, both cut rifled).
Or you can get the DPMS pattern and use the Magpul mags which are surely the second best option for AR mags, only I think the KAC mags allow a longer seating depth. Still, for the price you can't go wrong. Then there are a host of high end, decent or cheap large frames to choose from. If you build, LMT sells large frame lowers now, the best lower you can start with that I know of, or IMO anyway. Noveske makes a rifle now too.
Good luck either way you go but stay away from FAL mags in a large frame AR. Just a bad idea all around. Mags are actually very precise and it's difficult to design double stack mags that are reliable like that, and while they may work a little, I sure as shit wouldn't bet my life on it. And do you really want a rifle like that anyway? Nah, you can do better and you can do a LOT better if you save up and look for sales. Trust me, it's worth it. Even if you don't get a KAC, do right by yourself and get something decent.
Also, Smith and Wesson M&P 10 has a lot of proprietary parts I understand so you can't upgrade much, but if you're not interested in that or sub-MOA precision and want a little more a lighter fighting type rifle, these will at least use Magpul mags I believe and as far as I know, they go bang when you pull the trigger and some are actually good for ~1MOA with FGMM. This will probably be the cheapest "decent" AR10 you can buy. Provided everyone still says they're reliable rifles, and they can be had for less than $1000, even less than $800 when they go on sale.
Now the use of FAL mags in an AR is, uh, a no-go IMHO. For one, those magazines are now expensive and hard to find if you want good, quality Austrian, IMI or FN mags (I don't know how well the new DSA mags work or what tooling they were made on). Not all FAL mags are the same, Austrian and IMI are the best with the blued FN mags being good but more of a collector item than something to use.
Ten years ago I bought up all my Austrian and IMI mags and got four modified 30rd Bren mags too. Now the Bren mags are over $100 IF you can find one for sale, and the quality Austrian and IMI mags will surely be going for more than the ~$20ea. I paid for 'em.
I've heard problems with feeding in those rifles, if you can imagine that. Now as to whether the mag has lips that feed the rifle or not, I say they do, though the process is a bit different that AR's.
KAC mags are cheap (about $60 ea.) IF you have a military account with them and place a big enough order. I got killer deals on my gear that way. I got an SR25 and let me tell you, it's well worth saving for that bad boy, you won't be sorry. Buy once, cry once. I love mine. And save for a can too, the can that goes with that rifle is really nice and they make a few including a new precision rifle can. They're super simple and all ratchet on/off one hand and index TDC each time. If you get the MAMS brake, that's just the titties and there's nothing like it, it really works.
The FN Mk20 is another good deal to save for and people have been claiming groups as good as and some better than the SR25. But it's hard on scopes I hear. It uses it's own FN mags, going for about $4000, so a little less than the SR25 (unless you get a deal).
Both of those rifles will retain their resale value and there was a guy recently that instead of selling his SR25, he parted the whole thing out here in the PX for MORE than it was worth new! Because of the proprietary parts, parts like that are rare to come by and they don't sell large frame lowers, period. So he made a killing on that! Made me want to order another and part mine out!
Then there are plethora of options for built to builds. Personally I went with the SR25 for two reasons, one I always wanted an SR25 and two, I wanted a quality large frame I didn't have to build since nothing is standardized. SR25 is mostly proprietary but it doesn't matter for me, it's the only big frame I have; the proprietary parts also serve a purpose, they improve on older ideas. And it's a good one, only part I changed was the grip to a MIAD. Fully ambi, all built in, 20" heavy cut rifled Krieger barrel (they have two 16" too, one chrome lined and lightweight, both cut rifled).
Or you can get the DPMS pattern and use the Magpul mags which are surely the second best option for AR mags, only I think the KAC mags allow a longer seating depth. Still, for the price you can't go wrong. Then there are a host of high end, decent or cheap large frames to choose from. If you build, LMT sells large frame lowers now, the best lower you can start with that I know of, or IMO anyway. Noveske makes a rifle now too.
Good luck either way you go but stay away from FAL mags in a large frame AR. Just a bad idea all around. Mags are actually very precise and it's difficult to design double stack mags that are reliable like that, and while they may work a little, I sure as shit wouldn't bet my life on it. And do you really want a rifle like that anyway? Nah, you can do better and you can do a LOT better if you save up and look for sales. Trust me, it's worth it. Even if you don't get a KAC, do right by yourself and get something decent.
Also, Smith and Wesson M&P 10 has a lot of proprietary parts I understand so you can't upgrade much, but if you're not interested in that or sub-MOA precision and want a little more a lighter fighting type rifle, these will at least use Magpul mags I believe and as far as I know, they go bang when you pull the trigger and some are actually good for ~1MOA with FGMM. This will probably be the cheapest "decent" AR10 you can buy. Provided everyone still says they're reliable rifles, and they can be had for less than $1000, even less than $800 when they go on sale.
The 223 20” rra varmint IMO is one of the most accurate bench or prone factory AR’s for the money. Got mine for $999. I’ve owned 4 of them now and every single one has been able to average a 6x5 under .75 and some down to .5.... and the best 5shot group even out of my bolt actions was shot with my 223 20” rra varmint at .179”. I’ll put my rra 20” .223 varmint up against rifles 3x the price $$$
As for the large frame 308 20” rra varmint for about $1100 to $1200 ish,,, once again crazy accurate as long as you can drive it correctly and deal with its monster bolt. The down fall of the rra 308’s is not only their stupid big and Heavy bolt, but the FAL mags are somewhat of a pain in the ass. Highly recommend getting the JP silent capture system and tune the buffer with the spring packs. Adjustable gas block would help too. If you can get around the above two issues then they are amazingly accurate for the money. They are bench guns or shooting prone varmint direct from your trunk. You don’t want to be walking thru the woods with these heavy beasts.
My 308 doing a 6x5 at the end of this video
And my 223 20” varmint at 300 yards. Crazy stupid accurate for $999. Go to 12:20 of video
As for the large frame 308 20” rra varmint for about $1100 to $1200 ish,,, once again crazy accurate as long as you can drive it correctly and deal with its monster bolt. The down fall of the rra 308’s is not only their stupid big and Heavy bolt, but the FAL mags are somewhat of a pain in the ass. Highly recommend getting the JP silent capture system and tune the buffer with the spring packs. Adjustable gas block would help too. If you can get around the above two issues then they are amazingly accurate for the money. They are bench guns or shooting prone varmint direct from your trunk. You don’t want to be walking thru the woods with these heavy beasts.
My 308 doing a 6x5 at the end of this video
And my 223 20” varmint at 300 yards. Crazy stupid accurate for $999. Go to 12:20 of video
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I have owned and shot RRA big/small frame AR's in many different calibers over the years. You can't beat their out-of-the-box accuracy for the money, whether it's .204/.223's on prairie dogs or the LAR-8's in .243/.308 on bigger game/steel/targets. Yes, the proprietary issue on the large frames can be an issue, but that's not limited to Rock River. I have not had any issues with magazines. With most of their rifles you get an accuracy guarantee, although I bet you won't need it. Good Luck!
Btw.... shooting large frame AR’s like 6.5 308 and larger is MUCH more difficult in comparison to a 223
I like that square bag and plastic bin you have to catch the brass. Bins I have...what bag is it?
I came across this searching up stuff on the LAR-8. I have a 20" Varmint .308
I came across this searching up stuff on the LAR-8. I have a 20" Varmint .308
Both I got from menards. Just a tool bag that as the metal round bar around the bag mouth opening. Just a plastic bin.
Here are a few pictures of load development I did with the RRA LAR-8 X1 with 18" barrel @ 100 yards. Tests are using 168 ELDMs over Varget, the pictures should give you a decent idea of the groups you can expect. Once I started loading at the node it produced repeatable 3/4 MOA or better 3-shot groups out to 375 yards, which is the furthest I have taken it. This has held up for ten 3-shot groups so far. I couldn't get the 178 ELDXs to a decent velocity, but had similar group sizes. It has functioned flawlessly over the 500 rounds (at least) I've shot. I'm not a fan of the adjustable stock... too wobbly.
