• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Suppressors Rocksett gone bad?

Charger442

Sergeant
Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Nov 2, 2010
    4,704
    5,619
    South Texas
    I used some Rocksett to mount a 30CB brake on a bolt gun in December. I have shot it a few times after that, but not long strings of fire, or more than about 20 rounds before removing the can.

    Then recently, i shot quite a bit, about 150 rounds in a two day time without removing the suppressor, and when i did, the brake came off with it. So my brake is stuck in my can, and i needed both the rest of the week, so i just used it like a direct thread.
    anyway, when i went and looked at my rocksett bottle, there is quite a bit of white particulate that has settled out of it but i went ahead and tried to put the brake back on with rocksett again, so hopefully itll set up and i can remove the can.

    If the bottle has gone bad, id assume its not going to hold the brake this time either. I was disappointed because the brake came of with such an easy twist.

    I guess im going to chunk that rocksett out and maybe just try locktite?
     
    I used some Rocksett to mount a 30CB brake on a bolt gun in December. I have shot it a few times after that, but not long strings of fire, or more than about 20 rounds before removing the can.

    Then recently, i shot quite a bit, about 150 rounds in a two day time without removing the suppressor, and when i did, the brake came off with it. So my brake is stuck in my can, and i needed both the rest of the week, so i just used it like a direct thread.
    anyway, when i went and looked at my rocksett bottle, there is quite a bit of white particulate that has settled out of it but i went ahead and tried to put the brake back on with rocksett again, so hopefully itll set up and i can remove the can.

    If the bottle has gone bad, id assume its not going to hold the brake this time either. I was disappointed because the brake came of with such an easy twist.

    I guess im going to chunk that rocksett out and maybe just try locktite?

    My experience is that although Rocksett is heat resistant it doesn't take a lot of torque to break it. I use high temp red Loctite for TOMB and it hasn't failed me yet.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: HansohnBrothers
    apparently, that is what i am going to have to do as well. Is high temp red good up to 500 degrees?
     
    apparently, that is what i am going to have to do as well. Is high temp red good up to 500 degrees?

    Yeah, I think 450 but close enough. You'll have to use a quality heat gun if you want to break it later (or a torch but I try and stay away from that.)
     
    • Like
    Reactions: Fig
    Rocksett is about the same strength as blue loctite, but it's rated for much higher temps. The key to rocksett (or any thread locker) is making sure both parts are very clean and degreased. It also doesn't replace the appropriate application of torque as that is the primary method of keeping the muzzle device on the barrel.
    To get the muzzle device off, I'd clean the barrel threads and brake very well, load up on rocksett and torque it down as much as I can, let it set for 24+ hours and see if you can remove the silencer. If you shake up the rocksett enough, the particulates will desolve back into the solution, but eventually, it will separate out and go bad. I have a bottle that's just about completely white and solid at this point.
     
    Red for me on all my bolt gun muzzle devices. Little goes a long way.

    Rocksett has a break strength about the same as blue loctite does. Any supprrssor mounts like the TB CB do not get rocksett. Just a few drops of red. Never an issue.

    If you got a mount stuck in a can, you will need to clean the surfaces. Apply some red locktite. Thread it on. Leave it for 24 hours. Then take the can off. Then you can remove the suppressor and then the muzzle device after. You will need to heat up the MD though. I use a small torch, but know when to stop so it doesn't get too hot.
     
    i reapplied the rocksett i have and its going to sit for 24 hours. ive already hit on the side of can around the break with a non-metalic mallet. Hopefully that will break up the carbon lock enough to remove it.
     
    Hoping i can get it off with the Rockset, then pull the break off, possibly add a shim for a little more torque and then apply the red locktite.
     
    Not sure I saw an answer to the question. I have a bottle of rocksett that is doing the same thing-- there is a white precipitant forming on the bottom. Still seems to work fine, I just figured it was just kind of "drying" slowly and that's just how it happens. Can anyone confirm?

    -Stooxie
     
    As others have posted, Rocksett is really not that strong- about the same as blue loctite. I have turned it off before. High temp red is recommended.

    Zak do you guys use the loctite red on your TBAC CB mounts? I've had some of my guns done by you guys in Cheyenne and am just curious mostly.
     
    Update: the 300° red loctite worked. Cured for 24 hours, used a strap wrench to pull the can off. Little heat, untwisted brake, cleaned up, and reinstalled with extra shim, loctite 272 and some torque

    IMG_20190501_201523.jpg
     
    Good for you! I've been cleaning/lubricating my TOMB's with Breakfree CLP (learned by accident) and haven't had a stuck suppressor since. Just an FYI......................
     
    I drill an tap many things for set screw's but drop a #9 #8 0r #7 1/2 lead shot pellet depending down the hole first, then tighten. If I want to remove the device just back out the set screw an then unscrew, the lead will never hose up the threads. Have done this for years w/o issue.

    so basically you are using lead to help create an interference fit and as a non-chemically locking thread binder?

    i figure you could probably do that without drilling the brake, but on a device like this, i dont see a reason to drill the brake and screw around on the TOMB threading.
     
    so basically you are using lead to help create an interference fit and as a non-chemically locking thread binder?
    Yes. The set screw never touch's a thread. You can cut a relief in the threads an use the set screw direct to the under cut, as well. The only issue with lead is the melting point, if it's a high heat application we would always use silver balls.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: LeftyJason
    Good for you! I've been cleaning/lubricating my TOMB's with Breakfree CLP (learned by accident) and haven't had a stuck suppressor since. Just an FYI......................

    i had almost forgot about my strap wrenches and went diving around in the shop to find one. hanging right in front of my face!

    lets just say there was a LOT of carbon build up. Shot almost 400 round through it last week. i use EWL 2000 on most everything but im not sure it wont just cook off immediately, which is basically what i would think the CLP would do also after about 20 rounds.
     
    Right after you drink it.....

    Whatever fireclean actually is, my personal experience is not positive. Fireclean gummed up the bolt on my Cz455 to where the firing pin was inoperable and it took significant force to open and close the bolt. I used it on my pump shotgun I keep in the ranch truck, and Sunday I had to strip it down because the action rails had gummed up with dried, crusted fireclean.

    Ymmv, but I'll definitely not be using fireclean on my TOMB threads
     
    I would never use fireclean on something that was never regularly got used or doesn’t get a strong dose of carbon or high amounts of heat/friction. During a LAV carbine/SPR class I struggled with carbon lock every 100-150 rounds and the gun would lay down after about 300 ish rounds. He turned me onto fireclean and I applied once the night before after proper cleaning and another thin layer the morning of the class. Can never carbon locked and went through two more days without a malfunction. And I can honestly say I’ve never dealt with carbon lock since. I don’t use it on handguns or bolt guns other than muzzle device.
     
    I would never use fireclean on something that was never regularly got used or doesn’t get a strong dose of carbon or high amounts of heat/friction. During a LAV carbine/SPR class I struggled with carbon lock every 100-150 rounds and the gun would lay down after about 300 ish rounds. He turned me onto fireclean and I applied once the night before after proper cleaning and another thin layer the morning of the class. Can never carbon locked and went through two more days without a malfunction. And I can honestly say I’ve never dealt with carbon lock since. I don’t use it on handguns or bolt guns other than muzzle device.

    Fireclean patent says it's 3 different kinds of vegetable oil, or maybe more.
    Maybe it prevents carbon build up, but it gums up and goes bad, like a vegetable oil.



    . Aspects of the present invention further include vegetable-based oil compositions. The vegetable oil composition may include a first vegetable oil having a smoke point above 200° F., a second vegetable oil, distinct from the first vegetable oil, having a smoke point above 200° F., and a third vegetable oil, distinct from the first and second vegetable oils, having a smoke point above 200° F. For example, each of the first, second, and third vegetable oils may have a smoke point of about 300° F., or yet more preferably for some applications, each may have a smoke point of about 400° F. In an aspect of the invention, each oil in the blend may include one or more of the properties discussed above. Each of the first, second, and third vegetable oils may be selected from the group consisting of: sesame oil, canola oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, olive oil, corn oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, cotton seed oil, almond oil, safflower oil, walnut oil, avocado oil, rice bran oil, and flaxseed oil. The composition may include, by volume, about 1% to about 80% of each of the first, second, and third vegetable oils, more preferably for some applications about 5% to about 60% of each vegetable oil, and most preferably for some applications about 7% to about 30% of each vegetable oil. The composition may further include any number of additional vegetable oils distinct from the first, second, and third vegetable oils, each being selected from the above list and being present in the above ranges. For example, the composition may include fourth, fifth, sixth, etc., vegetable oils
     
    Fireclean patent says it's 3 different kinds of vegetable oil, or maybe more.
    Maybe it prevents carbon build up, but it gums up and goes bad, like a vegetable oil.

    I DGAF what it’s made out of. It works when used correctly. Again properly used on guns that get used. wipe off carbon instead of scraping or beating it off. If you’re using it on a gun/part that doesn’t get dirty enough to clean it when done, you’re using it wrong. I’ll stick to fireclean and you stick to strap wrenches.
     
    I DGAF what it’s made out of. It works when used correctly. Again properly used on guns that get used. wipe off carbon instead of scraping or beating it off. If you’re using it on a gun/part that doesn’t get dirty enough to clean it when done, you’re using it wrong. I’ll stick to fireclean and you stick to strap wrenches.

    If I'm using it on a suppressor, I'd care what vegetable oil it is. As their own patent mentions smoke points of 200 and 300 degrees, that means on any can that "gets used" it's smoked off very quickly.


    Rarely do I go 400 rounds without removing it, but I was at Rifles Only all week and I just left it on because we just grounded them in the barn each day.