Rocksett vs Loctite

[CBauer]

Alright so I’ve got two different guns that I’m looking to put ASR brakes on for my suppressors. The guns are my MCX virtus rifle in 5.56 and my 9mm SP5k. I want to be able to remove the muzzle brake relatively easily later on and am concerned with having to use water (especially on my SP5k with all steel construction and parts I don’t feel I can easily get to such as charging tube) to have to remove the brakes. My question is it better to use rocksett and and less torque so I can remove it later by only wrenching it off or loctite and heat the brake to remove it later. Any help is appreciated! Thanks

 

[longshot2000]

I would never recommend Loctite on a muzzle device used with a suppressor. Rocksett all the way. That said, Rocksett is a semi-permanent adhesive. Whatever you do, will require effort to get it off. If the barrel has a pin, like a 556 extension pin, you will need to use a barrel vice or other manner of holding the barrel, other than a reaction rod or clamp around the upper receiver. Heat will normally do it. Best advice is to not plan on removing the muzzle device.

 

[CBauer]

I would never recommend Loctite on a muzzle device used with a suppressor. Rocksett all the way. That said, Rocksett is a semi-permanent adhesive. Whatever you do, will require effort to get it off. If the barrel has a pin, like a 556 extension pin, you will need to use a barrel vice or other manner of holding the barrel, other than a reaction rod or clamp around the upper receiver. Heat will normally do it. Best advice is to not plan on removing the muzzle device.

 

[CBauer]

I agree and honestly I’m more worried about the Sp5k as there’s really no good way of clamping down the barrel or even the entire upper reciever. I’m going to rocksett the Sig for sure and I may just try the Sp5k with torque alone and see if it loosens over time and go from there.

 

[msgriff]

Maximum expected muzzle device temp is the major factor, rate of fire comes into play. Rocksett is rated for over 2000 f. You only need 1 or 2 drops about the size of #4 shot. It should also be heat cured. Although most soak in water for disassembly, it's crystalline structure can be fractured with a sharp blow to the muzzle device. If you're not expecting that high of muzzle device temperature, Loctite blue #2422 is rated for 650 f and can be disassembled with hand tools.

 

[carbonbased]

TBAC recommended a little drop of red locktite on muzzle devices. I think they still do. They had some less than great experiences with Rocksett. Do a little searching for more info, sorry I’m not more help.

Me? I am sitting on the fence regarding muzzle stuff but have successfully used the little drop of red locktite method on not-hot applications. Can still twist things. Just use one drop, no more.

 

[hafejd30]

I use blue on my bolt guns and slow fire semis. Never had an issue with one loosening. All are wrenched on. When removed the blue loctite is still present and still working

 

[poke_53]

Rockset for me all the way. Holds tight and easy remove with hot water

 

[ACard]

I have used both with great success. What I can share is if you use red loctite, a little goes a long ways if you are not careful it will lock down before you get your muzzle device in place. With Rocksett you need to read the instructions and follow to get optimum results. In a nut shell Rocksett has to be able to allow the water to dissipate (in the thread locker) to form a good bond, so you need to use more than you would loctite but not too much or the external portion hardens and traps the water vapor below preventing a good bond. I have also found you want at least 24 hours for it to cure if not 36-48. With either product make sure male and female parts are cleaned and degreased.

 

[Simonsza1]

Red locktite. Mini butane torch on the muzzle device to heat up if you ever have to take it off. Doesn’t even remotely hurt the brake or the finish of it, screws right off every time. Doesn’t budge till you want it to.

 

[BuildingConceptsllc]

I use Permatex 27200. It's rated for high heat but you can still get it off with a little torch action. I use it on every single qd /break I have for all of my cans and it works really well for me. I'm not a big fan of rockset honestly and that permatex is a really good happy medium set up so that you can remove the break but it won't just turn on you. It is possible to get the can really hot and and then turn it and unscrew the break, but you won't do that unless you are using something to hold the can because it has to be really hot so it's a non issue for me

 

[Near miss]

My blue loctite loosened up after some blasting.

The red loctite has held on and is nowhere near loosening up, I tried.

 

[JS8588]

I use Rocksett on muzzle devices, buffer tube threads, and gas block set screws. Higher thermal rating than locktite and easier to remove for adjustments later.

 

[supercorndogs]

I don't use anything on muzzle devices. I have never had one torqued to 35ftlbs come loose.

 

[Digetydog]

I used purple Loctite to lock down my bolt knob. Subsequently, I decided to replace it with a different knob. I was able to take the old knob off.

It was easy to clean the Loctite off the threads to the bolt and installed the new knob fine.

Being OCD, I want to clean out the threads inside the old bolt knob with a brush. Since I cannot get the brush inside of the bolt knob, what is the best way to get it off the threads?

I was think of using brake cleaner, but would like some guidance.

(Every video and article I found online was focused on how to remove the bolt. Not one of them spoke to removing the old Loctite from the threads)

 

[tomme boy]

Use a bore brush in a drill and spin away. It will clean the old stuff out. I have a bunch of stainless brushes I use just for this. They don't wear out like a bronze brush will.