Round Steel hanging question

[powdahound76]

So I got some nice steel rounds, 8-10' in size for shooting at distance. My dad hooked me up nicely!

Figure I might be able to hit them at 100 yds off my Lead Sled if I have enough weight to keep it still.....

Anyways, looking at the rebar frame hanging method as an economical and fairly compact garage storage options.

In reality these will be shot by .223, 6.5, .308, and .30-06 at range. Mostly .223 and .308 probably.

What is the preferred method of mounting these? One hole in the steel or two? My plan is to be hanging them by old firehose or rubber conveyer belt pieces (have access to both) and grade 8 hardware.

Thanks guys

 

[Hobo Hilton]

Just an example... Fairly simple.

Hobo

 

[MK20]

Weld chain on the back of them and hang them by that. Easy, cheap, durable, and easily replaceable.

 

[Emad]

I have a couple "the last stand" rebar stands that aren't bad. I prefer 2 straps to settle the steel down. There also some conduit stand setups that are pretty quick and lite but if you shoot the pipe it gets sharp. If you get the last stand be aware they catch a lot of jacket so wear gloves.

 

[Backcountryguy]

Use two holes and two conveyor belt straps.

Don’t shoot the steel at 100 yards with 223.

Speed is what kills (pits) the steel, not bullet diameter. Of the calibers you listed 308 would probably be the only one I’d shoot at 100 yards

 

[powdahound76]

Thanks all!

After looking more at JC Steel stuff, I will be buying their stand parts. They are a Sponsor here and I admire what they do. Decided a long time ago they would get my steel business.

The “settling down” was making me lean towards 2 holes, but wasnt sure.

@Backcountryguy - my sharp wit doesnt come across in my posts I guess. I was mocking the guys I see shooting 8” round steel at 100 yds off a bench/bags with an AR.

Steel for me is for distance. 400 and beyond, maybe at 300 as a carbine drill with distance in the mix.
I like shooting paper groups closer. I figure 5 5 shot groups at 300 each measured out gives me the best picture of my skills. Dont do it often, but a couple times a year for my own satisfaction. Or frustration depending.... ?

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

My DYI hangers.

3/4" emt conduit
3/4" screw connectors for emt
3/4" emt hanger
A couple rigid pipe T and emt 90
Carriage bolts & chain for hanging.

Can buy in bulk at Home Depot for cheap to make multiple hangers for different distances and spare parts.

 

[Dantrom]

Just an example... Fairly simple.

Hobo

What material do they use for those straps?

 

[lash]

Thanks all!

After looking more at JC Steel stuff, I will be buying their stand parts. They are a Sponsor here and I admire what they do. Decided a long time ago they would get my steel business.

The “settling down” was making me lean towards 2 holes, but wasnt sure.

@Backcountryguy - my sharp wit doesnt come across in my posts I guess. I was mocking the guys I see shooting 8” round steel at 100 yds off a bench/bags with an AR.

Steel for me is for distance. 400 and beyond, maybe at 300 as a carbine drill with distance in the mix.
I like shooting paper groups closer. I figure 5 5 shot groups at 300 each measured out gives me the best picture of my skills. Dont do it often, but a couple times a year for my own satisfaction. Or frustration depending.... ?

I have two sets of JC Steel stand brackets, 1/2” and 3/4”. I use the 1/2” with 1/2” rebar and the 3/4” with 5/8” rebar. Both work well but the 5/8” rebar is better for heavier steel. I have been using mine for years including for matches and any steel 6” or larger, I hang with two straps.

For straps, I prefer conveyor belt or fire hose, as steel chain will get shot off at some point and is harder to fix while at the range. It probably makes a difference if you are set up on your own land and will be the only one shooting at your steel too. Chain hangers are heavier to carry and deal with in my opinion.

 

[Dashoota]

For our range, 400+ members. We've found the re-bar legs and cross bar to be the best option for the stand. Fire hose seems to be working best for hanging. I use a 1/2" carriage bolt and nylon locking nut. Get a 9/16 drill bit to drill the fire hose and use a vise to make it easier.

Target size will dictate 1 or 2 straps. The smaller 4-8" targets will be fine with 1 strap. If you plan to shoot fast rounds at them at 100 yards, you'll need 1/2" AR500.

 

[Wssickta]

Fire hose works great and is readily accessible for most anyone willing to ask for a ruptured hose.

 

[Shifty6BR]

We've always used shepards hooks....they range in height.

 

[LR51]

Two holes firehose

 

[R-B]

mud flaps work good also.

 

[Runnineh]

Stamp 2 holes and fire hose. Been doing that for years and havent had to replace them yet

 

[Steel head]

I use electrical conduit for temporary stands as it light an I have to sometimes billy goat the target to location.
For more permanent targets I’m just setting up to use T posts and J slot brackets.

 

[1clicktrick]

View attachment 7214595
mud flaps work good also.

Wow!!!!! The mud flaps are brilliant!

 

[Claybuster715]

Here are the hangers that I'm in the process building. They work good but I ended up bending "S" hooks from 5/16 round stock to hang it by because it's hard to hold the target and bolt the chain on. Its 1" 11ga square tubing, 1" sch 40 black pipe, and 3/16 plate and stainless hardware. I also capped all the ends to keep mud and wasps out it.

 

[Unknown]

When I ran precision rifle matches for my gun club (6 Years worth) we would buy aluminum bracket from JCsteel targets that would allow us to use whatever length of half inch rebar we wanted. We would use 4 legs and one cross piece to hang targets and it worked great. Unless someone clipped the rebar at just the right place, the parts would last a very long time. We rarely had bullets hit the rebar to where they would wreck them...the rebar would get scuffed up, but I only remember a few being destroyed...considering we used them for monthly matches for over 6 years, I would say it was a very durable system.

The system is cheap, durable, and versatile....what's not to like about that?

 

[Deleted member 113831]

Wow!!!!! The mud flaps are brilliant!

Spall can cut firehose, but it is probably free. Rubberized conveyor belt is better, but probably not free.

The mud flap thing is better yet, could be free.

The absolute toughest, but hardest to make, is to hang by the tread of steel belted tires. You cut the side walls off and use the tread for strips, probably free.

 

[Claybuster715]

Mine hang from a strip of horse mat. Basically mine belt with holes. We have a quite a bit of it we got for free so it serves the purpose well and I dont have to try to drill holes in mine belt.

 

[lash]

Spall can cut firehose, but it is probably free. Rubberized conveyor belt is better, but probably not free.

The mud flap thing is better yet, could be free.

The absolute toughest, but hardest to make, is to hang by the tread of steel belted tires. You cut the side walls off and use the tread for strips, probably free.

It’s true that spall causes damage to the fire hose, but one strap of fire hose will last several matches or more before I consider changing it. It certainly won’t cut easily. I think I have one in the garage that was used on a 10” plate at 400 and 500 yards for a whole season and still held up. I’ve never had conveyor belt straps last near as long.

 

[forrestgump01]

I've used mudflaps and firehose
fire hose is so much better, it last forever , mudflaps tear to easy

If you can't find fire hose for free you can buy it online cheap
I found instead of drilling holes , take a piece of metal rod the size of the hole you want , heat it with a torch and push it through the fire hose. makes a nice round hole and melts the edges of the hole so the fibers don't fray.

 

[Mach1pilot]

Going to try this in the future.. Seems economical and already has the holes drilled.. Just break it down and boom. lots of straps.

Dock bumpers

 

[Keel Haul]

he absolute toughest, but hardest to make, is to hang by the tread of steel belted tires. You cut the side walls off and use the tread for strips, probably free.

Made me wonder about the truck tires that come apart on the highway. I’m sure there is plenty of free chunks every couple of miles down the road that could be scavenged.

 

[acudaowner]

not wanting to spout praises for cabela's but they have some pretty cheap but effective stands one only 15 dollars or so + the steel and another that has two parts needing a head piece and a pointed bottom that attach via a 2x4 you also need to buy that is bottom left in associated items of the first target stand we use both with a 308 and 6.5 and have had little problem with them . frozen ground made it a little harder to get them into the ground . what ever you get good luck and have fun .
here is a link https://www.cabelas.com/product/CHAMPION-SHEPARDS-HOOK-HOLDER/2510148.uts?slotId=4

 

[tymurrey]

This last summer I was helping the father in-law work on his baler and we ended up replacing a some of the belting. The belts are 7” wide and 20+ feet long and reinforced like conveyor belt. I used this to hang most of my targets. To hang them I used steel u posts pounded into the ground but they are permanent at my range.