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Rpr or Bergara lrp 2.0

jtp79

Private
Minuteman
Oct 3, 2022
9
7
Sparta, Tennessee
New member. I have just recently got in to long range (for me) shooting. I walked into a local gun store looking for an Ar 10 and left with a Bergara 14 HMR chambered in 308. Been to the range every weekend since and loving it. We have a range about 30 minutes away with electronic targets out to 1000 yards. With that being said, I am considering purchasing another rifle. Either a Ruger precision rifle or a Bergara LRP 2.0. Ive done research on both but cant find much comparing the two. I am also looking at two different calibers. Either the 6.5 creedmore or the 300 PRC. Id love to have any information or educated opinions between the two calibers and between the two rifles. In 6,5 I can get the Ruger for about 400 less. In 300 PRC they are roughly the same price. Thanks in advance
 
No experience with either of the rifles you mentioned but I'd probably go bergara. And 300 prc for sure.
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What do they shoot at that 1000 yard range? NRA Prone? If you are going to shoot a 60 round match with sighters, the Creedmoor would be easier, 142smk or 147 ELD-M and go for it.

You can easily shoot the RPR from either a bipod or a sling.
 
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What do they shoot at that 1000 yard range? NRA Prone? If you are going to shoot a 60 round match with sighters, the Creedmoor would be easier, 142smk or 147 ELD-M and go for it.

You can easily shoot the RPR from either a bipod or a sling.
They shoot steel matches and nra I believe. The steel match you can shoot prone or from the bench.
 
I shot a RPR in 6.5CM for the last 4-5 years. Pros: Good starter gun, decent after market support for barrels and some small parts. Gen 2 comes with a keymod hand guard, Gen 3 switched to M-Lok which offers more options but it’s basically AR-10 parts, easily swappable. Stock barrel is…. stock but with the right load it can be a hammer. Barrel is threaded for comps or can. Folding stock for ease in transport. With scope, it weighs about 14-15 lbs (nice for carrying, but heavier would be better for barricade shooting). Last pro: Price.

Cons: Proprietary receiver which limits options unlike a rifle that is cross-compatible with Rem 700 footprint after market stocks, triggers, etc. Stock barrel is .820” dia so not the heaviest gun and needs weights on the fore end to balance it correctly on barricades. But if you upgrade the barrel it ought to be easier to balance.

Like I said above, it’s a good PRS starter rifle which helped me figure what I wanted for my first custom build. But as far as being able to ‘grow’ with a RPR as you get more into the shooting comps… IMO the RPR has a glass ceiling starting with the action.
 
Between those two I'd choose the Bergara, never could get comfortable with the buttstock on the RPR, they shoot fine though. I would not get the 300 PRC, more expensive to shoot, more recoil, and little advantage IMO if you're only shooting 1000/1200 yards.
 
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Bergara in 300 PRC would be my choice between those two. The Ruger is a boat anchor but shoots good. The LRP is lighter. If you want more weight on the Bergara, you could add some mlok chassis weights. Definitely would put a tuner and brake on whichever you get and a really GOOD SCOPE. Don’t skimp on the glass if you can help it. Cheers
 
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Bergara in 300 PRC would be my choice between those two. The Ruger is a boat anchor but shoots good. The LRP is lighter. If you want more weight on the Bergara, you could add some mlok chassis weights. Definitely would put a tuner and brake on whichever you get and a really GOOD SCOPE. Don’t skimp on the glass if you can help it. Cheers
I’m reading that the Daniel defense guarantees a .5 moa out of their chassis rifles. How is it compared to these two?
 
Already mentioned I think, but do you have a quality scope on the HMR? Depending on what you have, the second rifle money might be better off used to upgrade your optic and just buy more ammo.

If you do buy the 300 prc are you taking into account the cost of ammo? Even if you reload, my powder drops alone are about double what I'm dropping for 6.5cr. For factory ammo you'll be paying around $3 a round or more for something like Hornady match.

If you did buy one of those rifles in 6.5 (both are decent from my experience), IMO I don't think that it's worth keeping the HMR. When I had mine it was heavy for a hunting gun and light for a target gun. It was the gun that got me started in this type of shooting but I don't regret selling it.
 
Already mentioned I think, but do you have a quality scope on the HMR? Depending on what you have, the second rifle money might be better off used to upgrade your optic and just buy more ammo.

If you do buy the 300 prc are you taking into account the cost of ammo? Even if you reload, my powder drops alone are about double what I'm dropping for 6.5cr. For factory ammo you'll be paying around $3 a round or more for something like Hornady match.

If you did buy one of those rifles in 6.5 (both are decent from my experience), IMO I don't think that it's worth keeping the HMR. When I had mine it was heavy for a hunting gun and light for a target gun. It was the gun that got me started in this type of shooting but I don't regret selling it.
I have a leupold vx 5 on the hmr. Paid as much for the scope as I did the rifle.
 

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I have a leupold vx 5 on the hmr. Paid as much for the scope as I did the rifle.
So, it's not my intention to malign your purchase, but that scope/reticle combination is not well suited for longer distance shooting. Even if you dial all your elevation correction, you really need something with a reticle that allows you to hold for wind consistently or learn/correct yourself from misses. This only becomes more important the further out you're shooting.

Something like the below tree style reticle might not be the best hunting optic, but allows for a lot more capability in precision shooting.
 

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So, it's not my intention to malign your purchase, but that scope/reticle combination is not well suited for longer distance shooting. Even if you dial all your elevation correction, you really need something with a reticle that allows you to hold for wind consistently or learn/correct yourself from misses. This only becomes more important the further out you're shooting.

Something like the below tree style reticle might not be the best hunting optic, but allows for a lot more capability in precision shooting.
What would you suggest? I went off recommendations from the local gun shop. Supposedly one of the best scopes they had in the building and there were quite a few.
 
I have a leupold vx 5 on the hmr. Paid as much for the scope as I did the rifle.
Once you get a top end scope you get spoiled. Now I just figure 3-4 for the optic alone. Do some reading hear and online. Make a list for of what interests you then dig deeper into that. Have friends or acquaintances at your range that have any of them, try to check out if you can. When asked about mine I’m usually happy for someone to check it out. They may like it or if they decide another brand.
 
What would you suggest? I went off recommendations from the local gun shop. Supposedly one of the best scopes they had in the building and there were quite a few.
The VX5s are known to have nice glass, but the duplex reticle is really the issue. You can check if leupold will switch thereticle, but then it would be a second focal plane scope which isn't great either.

Most people on here would suggest something with a tree style reticle, first focal plane. MRAD or MOA is a personal choice, but MRAD makes a little more sense as it is in groups of 10 not 4 when counting.

There are lots of solid scopes out there around the $1k give or take some. The Burris XTR3 scopes are excellent for the money. But it really comes down to your budget.

The pic below is through my 3.3-18x XTR3 with the SCR2 reticle at sunset at around 7x I think.
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I have owned both and the Bergara is in another league as RPR. 6.5CM will be much cheaper to shoot if you buy factory. PRC is awesome but if I did 300 I would do win mag, but still more pricey than 6.5.

I have the DD first gen delta 5 and the gun shoots great. Their new chassis gun looks fantastic with a fat barrel, I would put on par with Bergara, maybe a slight notch above.

PB
 
I would still go 6.5 even though you reload. If you shoot a lot, 300 is a thumper. I love it, but it big time more everything vs 6.5..

PB
 
My .02.
I have shot an RPR, it is incredibly accurate. It is reliable. We changed the buttstock to luth ar and are much happier.
It is a pig, not a big deal for a range rifle.
Of the two, I would opt for the bergara. Offers the flexibility of changing the stock or chassis to suit.
You do NOT have to send the bergara for a rebarrel, there are savage style barrel nut barrels available.
The trigger on the bergara is much better.
Go with the 6.5 CM, there is NO benefit of shooting the 300 PRC, the increased recoil and muzzle blast will hamper your shooting.
If you are on a budget, it is hard to beat the Athlon midas tac 5-25 for your purposes.
 
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What would you suggest? I went off recommendations from the local gun shop. Supposedly one of the best scopes they had in the building and there were quite a few.

You need something that you can dial for distance with a reticle that has wind holds on the horizontal stadia. You also want a zero stop so that when you dial 10 mils and you need to go back to zero you don't have to worry about dialing past and getting lost.

In that price range the Burris XTRII from cameraland is probably your best bet., https://cameralandny.com/shop/brand...8797-013a-70ba-00163ecd2826?variation=3163861
or more magnification, https://cameralandny.com/shop/brand...76f0-013a-6e22-00163ecd2826?variation=3153753

I have a couple of the XTRIII's in the SCR mil reticle that works well for hunting and range work. The SCR2 tree reticle is a better match reticle.

I have a few Athlon's, both Cronus and Ares, they're great, haven't had one break yet and I've ran them quite a bit in matches. Europtic has the Ares on sale recently. https://www.eurooptic.com/Athlon-Ar...PRS1-FFP-IR-MIL-Brown-Riflescope-212100B.aspx Might be able get the $250 gift card still if you ask.
 
Pick the rifle you want but I'd stick to 6.5 Creedmoor. Magnum class stuff isn't great to learn on. More cost more weight more recoil.
 
I have owned both and the Bergara is in another league as RPR. 6.5CM will be much cheaper to shoot if you buy factory. PRC is awesome but if I did 300 I would do win mag, but still more pricey than 6.5.

I have the DD first gen delta 5 and the gun shoots great. Their new chassis gun looks fantastic with a fat barrel, I would put on par with Bergara, maybe a slight notch above.

PB
 
If you like your current rifle, then shoot it and spend the $ on a Gen 3 Razor scope in MIL or lots of ammo & one of these:



If you don't like your current rifle, then buy a new one and sell your old one. No need for 2. Better to have one great rifle, one great scope, and get lots of shooting in.

I have no problem with .308. Even if competing, compete in .308 division. No problems out to 1000 with .308 and quality match ammo.

Longer barrel life and ammo easier to find.
 
I can't speak to Bergara rifles because I've never shot one and know no one who owns one. I've handled one of the B14s... it was ok.

I'd just like to offer that, at the price point of the LRP 2.0, you can pick up a Tikka T3X TAC-A1, which I have owned (along with a T3X Varmint in .223) and used a year and a half in PRS matches. The TAC-A1 ships with 2 10-round mags (LRP ships with a 5-rounder) , a picatinney rail (LRP has no rail), and a brake (LRP has no brake).

So the ONLY thing the LRP 2.0 has going for it from what I can see compared to the TAC-A1 is being an R700 clone. The TAC A1 action was as smooth and the rifle pretty much as accurate as any of my customs; I moved up because I could and wanted to, not because the Tikka had problems.

(Full disclosure: Tikka T3X barrels are known to be a bit "slower" than most competitors' (factory, custom) barrels, and the rail is flat - but I can tell you from experience you'll have ample accuracy to the limit of 6.5CM cartridge capability, and any decent scope will let you dial to 1000 yards or more with 6.5CM despite the flat rail.)

Regarding a rifle in 300 PRC: if you have an itch only a magnum will scratch, go for it. The cartridge was developed with 2000-yard velocity/accuracy in mind. Some compare it to the .300 WinMag.... uh, yeah, they both shoot 30-caliber bullets, but the WinMag case's curiously short neck and old-school belt present some challenges for extracting top-shelf accuracy - and even without the case's old design, the throat has to be lengthened beyond SAAMI spec to properly utilize serious match bullets for which the PRC was designed. You wouldn't be able to load heavy match bullets out long enough in a factory rifle to best utilize powder capacity.

I digress. I wanted a 300 PRC too, after I joined a facility with a 1-mile range. But, for once, the brain won out over the itch. The PRC takes almost double the 6.5CM's powder charge. Bullets are over 50% heavier than 6.5CM. Thus, ammo costs far more. With enough weight and a GOOD brake, recoil is manageable but blast is appropriately magnum-sized, and no one will want to share a covered firing line with you if they have the ability to move away.

The final factor for me, aside from ammo cost and blast considerations, is that I very much enjoy PRS-style competition, and no one in their right mind would shoot a .300PRC in those matches... and I have no desire to go down the ELR rabbit hole at this point. So, the only reason I had for the PRC would be to ding a steel plate 1,760 yards away more authoritatively than I could with the 6.5CM. So I built another .223 instead, nearly identical to my primary 6.5CM. It has become my most-used centerfire rifle; relatively cheap to handload, light recoil, and ample accuracy to make head shots on standard IPSC plates out to 700 yards and body hits past 1000 (of course, wind plays havoc with lighter bullets).

Which leaves the RPR on which to comment. As has been said in this thread, it is a capable if relatively roughly-machined platform. Compared to a Tikka, running an RPR bolt feels like dragging a crowbar claw across a cinder block. But they'll usually shoot fine, and the price of entry is low.

One other thing: It is the RARE brick&mortar gunshop whose staff has worthwhile knowledge of precision rifle (or, all too often, anything much else). I have a fairly good shop not far away, but, while their precision rifle selection tops out with Tikka T3Xs and Bergara (not bad), not a soul in that store has ever shot a PRS match or even serious 500-or-more-yard playtime. And this is a dedicated GUN store with forty-leven flavors of AR, AK, Glock, S&W, and the like. I shudder to think what "advice" would come out of a sells-clothing-shoes-fishpoles-tents-cookwear-you-name-it-oh-and-guns store.

Fwiw.
 
I own an RPR really like it. But if shooting long range is your goal, I would suggest going beyond either the Bergara or the RPR. Bad Rock, MPA and GAP all sell really nice rifles for 2K to 2.5K. Caliber choice is yours, with most of the decent ‘target‘ rounds available. If you are reloading, think about one of the 6’s. The 6CM, 6GT, 6ARC and even the old .243 with a fast twist barrel and long throat will work. The 6BR and its many siblings are what the pros are using, but some issues with feeding are reported.

As I said, I’ll be keeping my RPR. Hard to find a rifle that shoots out of the box as well for that kind of money. However, the RPR Custom Shop. is a fine rifle but as expensive as the three mentioned above.

Caveat. I have nothing really nice to say about the RPR’s butt stock. Replaced mine with a Target Tool. Best add I ever made to that rifle.
 
Just give in and embrace the magnum lifestyle...with it you can...

Irritate half the range and dissuade people from sitting next to you
Reinforce your bad habits and flinching if you aready suck
Watch your stuff and foliage slowly relocate from the blast
Horrify @DownhillFromHere by showing up to a match with it

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300 prc will beat you up if you shoot a lot. I’d take bergara all day over the ruger. And I’d take a tikka ctr or tac a1 over the bergara….. Tikka actions and tiggers are very hard to beat for a factory gun.
 
I’m reading that the Daniel defense guarantees a .5 moa out of their chassis rifles. How is it compared to these two?
That DD rifle is excellent. I own the first Gen without chases and the barrel is very fast, tight chamber and shoots great. The new DD gun is more expensive and much beefier. It would hold its own with any of the above guns.

PB