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Gunsmithing Ruger Precision Barrel Install - Go Gauge

Smoketheclay

Private
Minuteman
Dec 28, 2017
90
27
Hi Everyone,

Tightened down the barrel on my RPR with a new Krieger 6.5 Creedmoor

For the No-Go Gauge, bolt won’t shut = good

For the Go Gauge, bolt will shut. It will close using just my fingernail very lightly. However when removing the firing pin assembly I feel a bit more tension with the Go Gauge vs nothing in the barrel.

Per Brownells IMPORTANT section below, they say I should feel the same tension with the Go Gauge as with nothing:

Open and close the stripped bolt on an empty chamber several times to get a feel for the amount of resistance the bolt has to closing. Slip the GO gauge into the chamber and with the pressure of only one finger, attempt to close the bolt. If you are working with a Remington rifle, or any rifle where the extractor cannot be readily removed, slip the rim of the gauge under the extractor on the bolt, and push the bolt and gauge forward to chamber the gauge. Attempt to close the bolt handle. IMPORTANT: If you feel any resistance to closing greater than you had with the chamber empty, stop right there. Don’t force the bolt closed. The bolt handle gives you a tremendous amount of leverage, so to avoid damage to the gauge or rifle, use only minimal pressure to close the bolt.


Should I reconfigure or am I good to go?
 
You didn't mention if you also removed the ejector. You also didn't mention of you hooked the gauge under the extractor or it was removed. More info is required before a definite answer can be given.
 
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You didn't mention if you also removed the ejector. You also didn't mention of you hooked the gauge under the extractor or it was removed. More info is required before a definite answer can be given.

I didn’t remove the ejector and did not initially hook gauge under the extractor.

Although once hooked it was still very easy to move the handle up and down.

I also tested a dummy round that is longer than a stock round, that was built for my previous barrel. It’s so long it doesn’t fit in the stock magazine. It was easy to load in the chamber

Not sure if that helps
 
The extra force you felt was most likely the result of the ejector putting pressure on the gauge as the bolt closed. There would have also been additional force exerted as the extractor pushed over the rim of the gauge. My guess is that you're good to go. You could double check it by removing the ejector and hooking the gauge under the extractor before chambering the gauge.
 
The extra force you felt was most likely the result of the ejector putting pressure on the gauge as the bolt closed. There would have also been additional force exerted as the extractor pushed over the rim of the gauge. My guess is that you're good to go. You could double check it by removing the ejector and hooking the gauge under the extractor before chambering the gauge.

The gauge did end up catching and it was pretty easy to move once caught (I slid the bolt back and forth after catching). The closing of the bolt was incredibly easy too.

Thanks for your advice. The thing that got me was the brownells info.
 
I just swapped mine 3 weeks ago. Did not remove the firing pin but did remove the ejector pin for sure.
20200229_151742.jpg
 
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I just swapped mine 3 weeks ago. Did not remove the firing pin but did remove the ejector pin for sure.
View attachment 7286064

Nice. I couldn’t find a video on how to get the ejector out, just the firing pin mechanism.

Even if is slightly tight on the gauge as long as the gauge is bigger than the brass/ammo your GTG.

Cool, good to know. From what I’ve read and read here it seems like I’m pretty safe