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PRS Talk Ruger RPR stock replacement

Lumpybrass

Private
Minuteman
Dec 15, 2018
53
23
I have a great shooting Ruger and load. The only thing left to overcome is the stock. I read review complaints on the stock, but thought it probably a picky point. Not so. Most bench sessions leave me with a bloody cheek from the rear edge of the cheek piece.
However, looking at after market offerings I can not spot anything that looks like it would solve my problem. All look similar.
Has anybody gone through this and have some good recommendations?
Thanks
 
XLR butt stock was a major improvement to my Ruger I had several years back. You might also try to turn the cheek piece around backwards. God A Grip sells high-quality stick-on sorbothane pads. Good luck.
 

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I cut out a "cheek pad" from a glock cleaning mat and glued it over the stock cheek pc...the mat is prolly 1/4 inch thick and not super squishy....alot more comfy when sending 80-100 rounds a secession.
 
Move the cheek piece back? It's adjustable up / down and fore / aft.
 
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You can also reverse the cheek piece and the longer portion will face rearward. I also suggest ditching it all together. Magpul PRS gen 3. With hoptic cheek pad is a good choice.
 
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I personally prefer the RPR stock but a lot of people are switching to the Magpul PRS Gen 3.
 
I have (2) rpr's and the stock is a POS, best money ever spent on the one was the magpul..^^^
 
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I have decided to rid myself of my RPR spacegun. The bloody cheek scenario is spot on. Almost immediately after acquiring my RPR 6.5 CM, I swapped out the factory stock for an A2 stock. Didn't quite do the trick so I went back to the stock stock. Nothing I tried did any good. I would like to have tried the $250 magpul stock, but that is just too much to put into what already seems like a loser. I would hate to think how bad the .308 recoil would hurt. By the way, reversing the cheek rest only lets it cut your cheek on the other end. Any body want to buy an already factory re-boxed RPR or trade for a good scope?
 
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Well, I did it. I Went to my local dealer and told him I wanted to get rid of my RPR that I got from him about a year ago. He gave me a price and it was almost what I paid him for it. I picked out a new PST gen ii and got a lot of change back. By trading, I avoided sales tax which is considerable on a purchase of that amount. Now I have a new scope to put on my new 6.5CM build. WIN/WIN
 
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I never got cut by the RPR stock, but my assessment was also that it is garbage. The "bag rider" portion is too angular and sharp to use comfortably. It was replaced with a magpul PRS stock. That said, I don't throw away gun parts and it was sitting in a box when I started a new ar15 build. I found a guy (in the RPR discussion thread) that is 3D printing bag riders for the RPR stock. Well, that was >10x cheaper than another PRS, so I gave it a shot. The adjustments on the RPR stock are still trash, but I think my major gripe with the stock is solved. Turning the cheek piece backwards allows the charging handle to function.

Seems like a file and sand paper should be able to resolve any sharp plastic parts that are cutting cheeks, without leaving any telltale signs...
 
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Target Tool Stock is the best investment I have made for the RPR. I really like it and highly recommend them (NDIH)
 
Recently swapped to a Magpul PRS Gen 3 and really liking it. Made the overall length longer but transport it with the stock folded anyway.
 
Recently swapped to a Magpul PRS Gen 3 and really liking it. Made the overall length longer but transport it with the stock folded anyway.
You can shorten the Gen3 .5-.75 by cutting down the front and get another .5 or so by changing the buttpad if you need it shorter.
 
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Friend is 6'5" and his knuckles drag on the ground..sort of.
He can't get the factory RPR adjusted to his liking.

If he gets a Magpul Gen3, is there a way, in addition to the stock adjustments on the Magpul, to lengthen the attachment on the Ruger a couple inches out for a longer LOP?
 
Friend is 6'5" and his knuckles drag on the ground..sort of.
He can't get the factory RPR adjusted to his liking.

If he gets a Magpul Gen3, is there a way, in addition to the stock adjustments on the Magpul, to lengthen the attachment on the Ruger a couple inches out for a longer LOP?
The prs gen 3 has a long LOP. It’s like 13.5 - 14.5 or something
 
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A2 stocks work just about perfect for me. Simple and solid without a bunch of knobs and shit hanging off of them. Stick on an adhesive cheek pad if you need some rise, but probably not needed if you have proper height rings.
 
I changed mine to the luth ar MBA 3. Much improved. I did buy a commercial buffer tube as well. There is no ratting. If you use a mil spec you'll have looseness and rattling.
 
I put the magpul gen 3 stock on mine. At first the shortest setting was way to long. But after getting used to it I adjusted it out 2 more inchs. And I love it. Also I ditched the rail on the front for a seekings SPR3, ( I think it is the part number) it's the one with flat bottom and sides. Perfect replacement. Also the grip is a joke so I purchased the penguin vertical grip from anarchy outdoors, let me tell u that grip is the TITS
 
I purchased the RPR in 338LM and before going to the range, I swapped out the stock for the Magpul PRS Gen3. The problem I am having is that the bolt is not able to travel far enough back to pick up the next round in the mag. Its stops about half an inch or so short so I end up having to nudge the round with my finger so the bolt can pick it up. I tried it with the bolt shroud tool cover removed to see if it is hitting something internally and it's not. When I open the folding stock, I can see markings on the bottom of the buffer tube where the firing pin back plate hits the buffer tube and then apparently stops at the end of the threads of the tube. I used a mil-spec rifle buffer tube with the new stock. Any ideas what would cause this or how to fix it?

Thanks for the help!
 
I purchased the RPR in 338LM and before going to the range, I swapped out the stock for the Magpul PRS Gen3. The problem I am having is that the bolt is not able to travel far enough back to pick up the next round in the mag. Its stops about half an inch or so short so I end up having to nudge the round with my finger so the bolt can pick it up. I tried it with the bolt shroud tool cover removed to see if it is hitting something internally and it's not. When I open the folding stock, I can see markings on the bottom of the buffer tube where the firing pin back plate hits the buffer tube and then apparently stops at the end of the threads of the tube. Any ideas what would cause this or how to fix it?

Thanks for the help!
I'm not sure what is going on. I dunno how different a long action is vs a short action. Did it work fine before you put on the magpul stock? I have had no issue like that with mine
 
I'm not sure what is going on. I dunno how different a long action is vs a short action. Did it work fine before you put on the magpul stock? I have had no issue like that with mine
I didn't think to try cycling rounds before swapping the tube and stock. I assumed it would be good to go since it was a standard buffer tube swap and no reported issues using the PRS stock. In hind sight, I wish I had tried the factory stock first.
 
So your cooking piece is hitting the buffer tube?
 
So your cooking piece is hitting the buffer tube?
That's what it looks like. It shows signs if marks in the back half of the folding section that the buffer tube screws into and clear marks on the lip of the tube that it is apparently hitting and stopping rearward motion completely.
 
That's what it looks like. It shows signs if marks in the back half of the folding section that the buffer tube screws into and clear marks on the lip of the tube that it is apparently hitting and stopping rearward motion completely.
WTF, post a pic of the tube wear the marks are and a pic of the cocking piece. My phone keeps trying to auto correct to cooking piece
 
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WTF, post a pic of the tube wear the marks are and a pic of the cocking piece. My phone keeps trying to auto correct to cooking piece
lol, I assumed so on the autocorrect. I will try to get a pic and post in a sec. Thanks!
 
Take a piece of Emory cloth or a chainsaw file and knock down that raised edge for sure. Whats your cocking piece look like
 
Here's the pic of the bolt. I also added the Anarchy Outdoors titanium shroud.
 

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Is the rear side of that cocking piece have a sharp corner? If so can polish it with 2000 grit sandpaper with a little oil on the sandpaper to a mirror finish so it doesn't catch.only do the rear ward side if the cocking piece if it is sharp
 
It's not overly sharp but I can try to polish it to see if that helps. The bottom edge is dragging across the the first part of the tube and then the flat edge hit the lip if the buffer tube threads. It's pretty odd.
 
So what I would do is knock that edge down on your tube. Get it smooth. Polish that with high grit sandpaper and then run your bolt slow and see if it still catches. If it doesn't fix it then you can try polishing the rear side of that cocking piece and see if it helps. I bet the tube itself had a burr or something and the cocking piece just smashes it over and it progressively got worse. So start with smoothing out that tube, get it sanded down to a mirror finish and go from there
 
Thanks for the suggestions. I will work on it this weekend and see if that solves the problem. I appreciate it!
 
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Jmkjr87- I figured I would circle back and let you know how it went. When I dug out the factory stock assembly I realized the carbine buffer tube that is uses has a section cut out in the threads to allow for the cocking piece to travel far enough back to pick up the next round. I ended up removing the rifle buffer tube that I installed for the PRS stock and used a dremel to remove the same section in the threads so it would work.

I took it to the range this weekend and it worked great. I appreciate your help!
 
Jmkjr87- I figured I would circle back and let you know how it went. When I dug out the factory stock assembly I realized the carbine buffer tube that is uses has a section cut out in the threads to allow for the cocking piece to travel far enough back to pick up the next round. I ended up removing the rifle buffer tube that I installed for the PRS stock and used a dremel to remove the same section in the threads so it would work.

I took it to the range this weekend and it worked great. I appreciate your help!


Very nice you got it fixes. I've never looked in my tube before but now that you say that it makes since, there's gotta be room for that cocking piece to clear
 
You can also reverse the cheek piece and the longer portion will face rearward. I also suggest ditching it all together. Magpul PRS gen 3. With hoptic cheek pad is a good choice.
Do you need to change the buffer tube to install the prs? I have a magnum rpr I'm trying to install the prs gen 3 on.
 
No. You can use any buffer tube. You just have to use the middle piece that’s correct for the standard tube.
Ok thanks. Have you ever done this swap? Looking at my stock rpr stock ha I can't figure out how to get it off. Not much online I could find either.
No. You can use any buffer tube. You just have to use the middle piece that’s correct for the standard tube.
 
I just did it.

My PRS came with the "Carbine" connector already installed on it. If you want to use a rifle length buffer tube, you need to switch the connectors on the PRS. But you won't need to do that on a standard issue RPR in .308 (which comes with the carbine buffer tube).
 
I have the RPR in 338 LM and switched the stock out to the PRS Gen 3 as well. Switching to the rifle length buffer tube provides a definite benefit for a solid connection to the receiver. The rifle is heavy so it helps for a better lockup on the rifle buffer tube with the screw into the back of the tube when installed.

One thing I found out the hard way, when you remove your buffer tube, you will notice a small notched cutout in the threads. This allows the cocking device room to travel back so the bolt can pick up the next round. I ended up removing the tube and using a dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut the same size section so it would function properly. You will need to install the tube to mark the spot that will need to be cut out first.
 
I wish I had joined Sniper's Hide and read this thread before buying a stock for my Ruger Precision Rifle. I bought a Magpul PRS Gen 3 stock and installed it with the short adapter. The length of pull was 15-1/8", which is way too long for me. 13" to 13-1/2" is in the comfort range for me.

I ditched the adapter, cut down the front of the stock and cut 1-1/2" off the back of the receiver extension. This shortened the minimum length of pull to 12-7/8", which works well when wearing heavy winter clothing. There is enough adjustment in the stock to extend the length of pull to 14-1/4" and enough room in the receiver extension to clear the end of the bolt when cycling the action.

I cringed at the thought of cutting down a $250 stock, but it worked and doesn't look bad.
 
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