Howdy everyone. I recently purchased a new Savage Axis II Precision and a Sig Sauer Tango4 6-24 x 50 scope. I have two 30mm high scope rings from Warne. I tried a different ring assembly before this, and I when I went to zero the rifle I had to adjust my windage so much that I only had 1 mil L left. With my new rings I have the same problem. I’m assuming I either have a bad scope or something is wrong with the 20MOA rails on my savage. Any input is appreciated!!
Running out of windage when zeroing new scope
- Thread starter DieselMan2500
- Start date
Few years ago a friend had similar problem with his 110ba .300wm, tried different rings and rail ended up sending it back to Savage because the action screw holes were off, they sent him a new gun. Hopefully that isn’t your problem and its just the rings or rail.
Had the same problem with a Rem700 .308 5R. Sent it to Remington even though I was not the original owner. Remington replaced the barreled action as a safety issue. No problems with new action and barrel. I used a laser to show the problem was with the tapping of the mounting holes on the action. It happens
My guess is that the rail is crooked or barrel is bent. If you have another scope you can try that'd narrow it down quickly, or another gun you can try that scope on.
Thanks for all the help guys. I’m gonna take the scope off, do some investigating and maybe send the rifle back in. Is it normal to have to adjust the windage much when zeroing the rifle?
You picked some items on the cheaper end of the scale, increasing dramatically potential issues.
On alot of cheaper actions they are not strait. So when you torque down the rail you are actually bending it out of plane, and will bend the scope causing binding and other issues.. You can shim and then marine tex to fill the gap and get it strait.
Its something that needs to be checked and fixed on ANY bolt gun if you want it to work correctly.
Its possible you have a bad scope, bad rings, bad action, bad ammo, incorrect installation ect. There are alot of variables and its hard to eliminate them without replacing or doing in depth diagnostics.
I am not trying to preach or be a smart ass, but this is why many of us spend more money on quality gear. It all but eliminates these issues or at the very least, makes them easy to identify and then eliminate.
Lifes short and we want to have fun shooting or hunting with gear we can trust. Nothing worse than having to chase demons with the limited time many of us have to do the things we love.
On alot of cheaper actions they are not strait. So when you torque down the rail you are actually bending it out of plane, and will bend the scope causing binding and other issues.. You can shim and then marine tex to fill the gap and get it strait.
Its something that needs to be checked and fixed on ANY bolt gun if you want it to work correctly.
Its possible you have a bad scope, bad rings, bad action, bad ammo, incorrect installation ect. There are alot of variables and its hard to eliminate them without replacing or doing in depth diagnostics.
I am not trying to preach or be a smart ass, but this is why many of us spend more money on quality gear. It all but eliminates these issues or at the very least, makes them easy to identify and then eliminate.
Lifes short and we want to have fun shooting or hunting with gear we can trust. Nothing worse than having to chase demons with the limited time many of us have to do the things we love.
Hey there, you’re definitely right about my gear being on the cheaper side. I tried to get the nicest stuff I could with my income. This is my first real bolt action rifle purchase.
The short answer, as you’ve likely gathered, is “no.” A mechanical zero is rarely to never on the money, but a properly machined action/barrel don’t require much in the way of correction. Your scope, for example, has roughly +/- 15 inches of total windage at 100 yards. Not a huge margin and the expectation, generally, is to be fairly close to the center of that range.
If you’re sitting on 1 MRAD (3.6 inches at 100 yards) remaining, you‘re around 12 inches out of “true.” If your action is drilled and tapped 4.4 inches between holes, that’s an error of ~.015“ in where they drilled (assuming one is on center, the scope is true, the mount is true, etc.). Obviously, tolerance stacking can be a significant issue and can make it difficult to diagnose any particular element.
Folks have already chimed in with like three courses of action, so I think you’re covered at this point.
Folks, thanks for all the replies! I took off the pic rail and found a ton of oil and some debris (from the factory). I re-torqued everything and the optic seems to be square now. I ended up buying some new Warne Maxima fixed scope rings and they work like a charm.
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