Rifle Scopes RZR Zero Stop Pro Tip- How to set PST -.5 mil past zero like Razor

[bribassguy]

All, Just wanted to share this with other folks in case they need it. I wanted the ergo's and use to be the same between razor and my pst gen ii.

It's not rocket science but here's my procedure:

Step 0. Remove outer turret cap using allen key to loosen set screws. Carefully remove cap and make sure not to cut O-Ring.

Step 1. Engage zero stop and note position. Dial offset, in my case it's .5 mil UP to match the Razor.

Step 2. Fire 3 round group. (If you were already zeroed it should be 0.5 mil high now, in theory you could save some rounds and dial the opposite 0.5 mil DOWN but I was starting from bore sighting)

Step 3. Loosen inner turret cap set screws using allen key, make correction, then re-tighten. Be very careful not to click when tightening / loosening set screws. Once you've made your correction I like to check for 5 solid clicks before zero stop.

Step 4. Fire 5 round confirmation group. Note position of inner indicator and record in data book... helpful if you need to make offset for suppressor or switch scopes between rifle.

Step 5. Replace outer turret cap, set cap to indicate zero. Using allen key to torque set screws.

This will allow the PST to go past zero the same as the Razors... it's been helpful to bang against zero and count up 5 to have the same ergos as my Razor.

 

[10ring'r]

Nice! Very helpful and thanks. Have a new 5x25x50, EBR-7c in moa, that I was wondering how to accomplish something like this for my "cold" Wx shots, compared to my "hot" Wx shots, without resetting the hard "0". Mac

 

[Scott_at_Vortex]

You are close and most of them time this method will work. However, the way this zero stop works you will be hitting the bottom of the zero stop track before you are hitting the end of the track(the actual stop).

What you want to do is-
1. Loosen set screws on outer cap. Remove outer cap.
2.Make sure you are dialed all the way down to the zero stop. Should be a HARD stop....not mushy
3. Loosen three set screws on inner cap.
4. Zero rifle.
5. dial .5 mil down.
6. tighten set screws on inner cap(make sure these set screws are good and TIGHT)
7. Dial back up .5 mil to your zero
8. Put outer cap back on
9. Tighten set screws(these just need to be snug)



Hopefully that makes sense. Let me know if you have any questions.

-Scott

 

[10ring'r]

You are close and most of them time this method will work. However, the way this zero stop works you will be hitting the bottom of the zero stop track before you are hitting the end of the track(the actual stop).

What you want to do is-
1. Loosen set screws on outer cap. Remove outer cap.
2.Make sure you are dialed all the way down to the zero stop. Should be a HARD stop....not mushy
3. Loosen three set screws on inner cap.
4. Zero rifle.
5. dial .5 mil down.
6. tighten set screws on inner cap(make sure these set screws are good and TIGHT)
7. Dial back up .5 mil to your zero
8. Put outer cap back on
9. Tighten set screws(these just need to be snug)



Hopefully that makes sense. Let me know if you have any questions.

-Scott

After I posted my reply, I wondered about the position of the inner turret in relation to the outer. That answered my question. Thanks! Mac

 

[bribassguy]

@Scott_at_Vortex

So what's the fundamental difference between bottom of the track and the end of the track. Are you saying that I'd be between clicks at the zero or not fully bottomed out?

 

[wade2big]

Let me try to simplify. This is what I did.

1. Run elevation turret down to hard stop (zero stop.
2. Dial up .5 mils (or whatever room you want below zero stop)
3. Take off outer turret cap.
4. Zero as normal using inside turret.
5. Re-install outer turret on "0"

You now have .5 under or whatever amount you chose on step 2.
There is no need to fire a shot until step 4 as this is where all boresighting and zeroing should be done. If switching loads, you now have the room under your zerostop to rezero with the outer turret only and slipping the turret back to zero. There is no need to use the inside turret at this point unless its just a personal preference. It makes switching between loads quick and easy.

 

[Scott_at_Vortex]

@Scott_at_Vortex

So what's the fundamental difference between bottom of the track and the end of the track. Are you saying that I'd be between clicks at the zero or not fully bottomed out?

What happens when you hit the bottom of the track before you hit the actual stop is you put an unwanted bias on the turret threads and you will cause some brass to start shaving off from the bottom of the track. You also may not end up with a defined hard stop, but rather a slightly mushy stop.

I'll try to do a quick video of the internals this week.