Rifle Scopes S and B PM 2 5-25 x 56 LP model setup HELP please!

[blackraven1079]

Good evening all.

Do you have experience with the above scope, if so i hope you can help me please? I currently have the optic mounted in a Spuhr model 4601 with 6 mils elevation built in and i'm aware that i may of given up the full potential of the scope using this mount. That aside are my figures correct?

26 mils on the erector (mid point 13 mils, centred)?

With the 6 mils built into the mount i have 19 mils from centre (up) and 7 mils from centre (down)?

With this in place i would like some direction with my turret setup? From zero stop (i believe its called) do i dial up 7 mils and then release the screws and reset the dial to zero? If i do this i should get 7 mils below and 19 mils above. I feel a little confused at the moment with the inner workings of the elevation turret including the zero stop feature.

I would like to be zeroed at 100m and will start from the beginning in order to get this right.

Please see links to the rig.

5-25x56 PM II/LP
Spuhr - SA-4601 Scope Mount 34 mm AI

Thanks for taking the time to read this post.

Regards

Carl.

 

[poison123]

Stop worrying about it.
Mount the optic.
Zero the optic.
Then see what elevation you have left.

Your never going to perfectly have 7 mils below and 19 mils above....it doesn't work that way.

 

[blackraven1079]

I understand that. I just want to know my kit inside and out, otherwise i may potentially have rounds striking the ground just in front of me! Its the turret advice i want get right above all.

 

[poison123]

If your concerned about striking 5 feet in front of you......when your at the range with everything mounted up. Make the rifle as stable as possible.....pull the bolt look at what the bore is pointing at and then look at what the reticle is pointing at.

In all the new scopes I've mounted, the only time I've screwed up and struck dirt 10ft in front of the target was when I screwed up and didn't properly mount the scope.

 

[Captain Kirk]

Mount and zero as as poison mentioned, then loosen the cup screws on the turret and lift the turret about half way, push it back down and it will reset the zero stop, retighten the cup screws. When your done, run the turret into the second revolution and see if you have obtained the full 26 mils. I have the same optic on a 20 MOA base (5.8 mils), but can only get 19.2 mils out of it.

Kirk R

 

[Rob01]

To zero, shoot at 25m on a larger piece of paper with an aiming point in the center and adjust with what your reticle says from your first shot until you are about 1.5 mils low below your point of aim. This should take about 2-3 shots max. Then go to 100m and you will be on paper.

If you need to dial below the zero stop, which is usually .4-.6 mils below actual 0, then you loosen the small allen screws on the knob, turn the knob up to whatever amount you need to dial down plus one mil so you have play room, then retighten the small allen screws and dial down. Finish making your zero adjustment and then zero the knob. It's simple.

 

[EXTREMEPREJUDICE]

Good evening all.

From zero stop (i believe its called) do i dial up 7 mils and then release the screws and reset the dial to zero?

No, the purpose of the "Zero Stop" is to quickly return to the "zero" set for your particular rifle. So, in your case back to your 100M zero. That way you can adjust based on a known starting point. You "zero" your rifle and then set the "zero stop." The amount of erector (elevation) you will use to get to zero at 100M will vary depending on your action design, the height of your rings, your particular optic, the cant of your base, etc. I have the same model S&B and it's sitting on a 40 MOA base (in order to just zero at 100M) and I have 23 mils of useable elevation. Yes, having the erector centered in the tube would give you the most windage but I generally hold for wind and even if I was dialing I don't need that much at close range so I prefer to sacrifice the windage adjustment for the increased elevation.