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Sidearms & Scatterguns s & w 686 W/ no dash problems

65nut

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 14, 2011
169
4
38
beer cheese and fatties
i have a smith and wesson 686 6" with no dash that is having some issues. i acquired the gun unfired. i shot some remington ammo through it and the cylinder locks up. the hammer also becomes stuck. also, when fired this pistol spits crap at you from the left side.

since this gun is from 1987 smith and wesson said they may not cover it under warranty.

i know jack crap about these revolvers.

i read that they did have a recall and would have stamped a "M" somewhere on the pistol where the cylinder swings out. i however do not see it.
i have taken some photos for some possible help with this.
Thanks in advance for any info.

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Re: s & w 686 W/ no dash problems

is the ejector rod unscrewing, it is reverse thread and if it backs off, it will lock up the action. make sure it is screwed in tight and whipe off the oil, especially under the ejector star, they work just fine dry.
hope this helps.
 
Re: s & w 686 W/ no dash problems

There is a S&W forum you can check that may help. I don't have the URL handy but it should be easy to find.

Also, Shoot4fun is a S&W rep who frequents The Hide. Shoot him an e-mail, he may be able to help.

+1 on shooting it w/o oil. That may be the source of the splatter.
 
Re: s & w 686 W/ no dash problems

I confirm Attherange answer: flat pliers and a little strip of heavy leather around the rod_ unscrew it,clean both the threads with some paint thinner,alcool or acetone,wet the rod male thread wit a drop of Loctite,replace it where was_ You own a fine S&W not contaminated by any f'kin safety lock or blunt-face hammer : BE HAPPY !
 
Re: s & w 686 W/ no dash problems

When you pull the trigger, it only goes part way and everything binds up?

Then try like was stated earlier, that is an easy quick fix. These revolvers are like tanks, I have a 6" 686-(5 I think). No lock, but frame mounted pin and MIM parts. It actually has a very fine trigger, peerless.

Anyway, yours is the all stainless. I can't imagine it being damaged or broken, at least not the important parts...

You didn't show good pictures of the cylinder stops. Heavy loads or lots of shooting wears those out on this pistol and that cylinder won't lock up tight after time and has to be replaced, but it doesn't look THAT bad from what I can tell. I think mine is worse.

But essentially what is happeneing is the hand can't advance the cylinder to the next stop. That is tied into the trigger, which is tied into the hammer, thus affecting the whole bunch. Another thing that can bind them up is debris (a tiny rock) or some other junk inside. Perhaps a part broke or sheared after working loose and did this too. Perhaps something is loose.

It is easy to remove the side plate, but make sure you watch it done right a few times on youtube. It is easy to damage that and the frame, so you don't want to pry it off, but you do have to do just that a little since they are sometimes glued on. Just be careful, use a plastic knife or spatula or something, careful not to let the metal bind opposite where you pry when it comes loose. It is real easy to work on the lockwork if you are mechanically inclined and have the diagram available (Brownells has your specific diagram).

Here, just inspect it and look for damage. Then clean it well and lube it properly and put it back together. Usually a good cleaning and reassembly of a weapon can fix many problems. A lot of folks never take the weapon apart or maintain things so stuff can and does get gummed up, work loose, and then sometimes those little problems can cause big ones.

I've been inside all my revolvers, the ones with locks I disabled the flag by grinding off the post on it. Looks and acts normal, just doesn't lock (obviously I'd have to replace the flag if I wanted to sell it, or make it known in writing). Like I said, they are easy to work on. No point sending it in likely, plus if you do, they may change out your forged parts with MIM ones. They have been known to do that once they run out of the others. Trust me here, I was lucky not to send in my 1006 for work! I heard they did the same with revolvers, and I'd bet yours is one of those. No, if you inspect it and find broken parts, I'd find a good smith to work on it, one that can fit parts, and find the proper stainless or forged parts you have in your revolver to replace them with.

Good luck, and nice, nice revolver man. Definitely a keeper. I like the rubber grips on my round butt, but to each his own; no matter how you look at it, that is one of the finest .357 revolvers ever made.
 
Re: s & w 686 W/ no dash problems

thanks again for all the info! im a revolver virgin.

i cleaned off all the oil, took it outside and fired off 30 rounds of handloads. they are a low mid range load with h110 and 125 grain xtps. i took pics of the pistol after the mini range session and will post them tomorrow. after the cleaning, i only noticed debris a couple times coming down the left side. and it was faint. possibly powder debris?

i really do love this pistol. and will never sell it. like said before the trigger is amazing. and, i like the fact it is a 686 with no dashes.

i really appreciate the info on sending it to s&w. i would hate to have it come back with different parts.

i will also post pics of the pistol from all angles.

thanks again!
 
Re: s & w 686 W/ no dash problems

You don't say,or perhaps I dont'have understanded, how your 686 behave now,cycling it firing unloaded _A warning:"uncontaminated"S&Ws are apparently simple revolvers,because their simplicity is child of a fine brainwork,as per Mauser K98ks,therefore BEFORE tryng to open the side of your revolver,google about Jerry Kuhnausen's manuals,and buy his cheap book about S&W revolvers;it's really the holy bible about workin'on S&Ws_IF you MUST open the side,please,after removing the stocks,NEVER pry it_ NEVER_if can appear glued (?),soak it with paint remover_the only correct way,for me, to open it is repeatly lightly tap on the opposite side with a adequale plastic or wooden mallet,preferably on the opposite upper portion of the frame under one of the stocks or,ever on the oppsite side,on the corresponding surface,protectin the area with a heavy leather strip_ I hope can help
 
Re: s & w 686 W/ no dash problems

Simple.
The no dash 686's were recalled due to this exact problem. As I recall the fix was to replace the firing pin with a smaller nose radius pin and replace the firing pin bushing in the breech face. They may not warranty it, but, they should be able to do the upgrade.
 
Re: s & w 686 W/ no dash problems

I had a similar issue with my 29-2 it turned out to be winchester had some very thick rimmed ammo. it was 4 of the box of 50...sent it back to winchester...problem solved...so also check your ammo for rim thickness
 
Re: s & w 686 W/ no dash problems

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: spr1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Simple.
The no dash 686's were recalled due to this exact problem. As I recall the fix was to replace the firing pin with a smaller nose radius pin and replace the firing pin bushing in the breech face. They may not warranty it, but, they should be able to do the upgrade. </div></div>

S&W will in fact do this modification for free regardless of how many owners the revolver has passed through. I would recommend talking to them.