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Sako P94S and NRL22 question

TurboTrout

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Oct 30, 2020
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Hope I dont act like too much of a new guy here..

I recently won a P94S Range on the RIA auction, I live in S FL and would like to get into some PRS events with my Tikka Tac 308 in the tactical division, however I dont want to drive for a lifetime for a range bigger than homestead, which is far enough, and ammo prices have gone off the deep end for now. Maybe try to get a NRL22 group together at one of the public ranges around S FL???

Fast forward to one gun I've always wanted and just now got, a 22LR P94S. My plan is to put a PST Gen 2 3-15 EBR-2c moa (yeah I know all the cool kids dont use MOA), on a 25MOA rail for the P94S, this would match my PST Gen 2 5-25 EBR-2c MOA on my 308 Tikka.

I was also looking to add a good sling, I have the short action precision on my Tikka and AR, or maybe just a target type with a hand stop and no rear attachment, heck as I kid I used to just have a camera lanyard loop off my front swivel that I would use as a sling. I want to also ditch the harris bipod for a atlas to match my Tikka, just personal preference, I'll also be matching the trigger weights between both rifles best I can.

My question is am I missing anything on this build for a good NRL22 gun, also how to I get a picatinny rail on that euro target rail for the bipod?


Hope that wasnt too much, and THANKS, looking forward to the day when I can contribute more than I ask :)




The rifle I just won


download.png


download-1.png



I was thinking of having something like this just aft of the new atlas bipod if possible, though space and weight might beg to differ.


CC3535-LG.jpg

 
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how to I get a picatinny rail on that euro target rail for the bipod?

You can get square shaped nuts that slot into the rail and then these accept the Picatinny rail screws. Just make sure the screws are compatible with the nuts obviously (metric/imperial). I searched my email looking for where I bought mine to give you a link but I couldn't find it. Maybe try NordicMarksman.com. Search Google for a UIT Rail Nut or an Anschutz Rail Nut. Alternatively, I've read an M6 flange nut with some filing down will work as a DIY method (on some rails anyway). I have a few at home but haven't had the need to file them down yet so can't 100% verify but looks like they should work.

I use this rail on my 1761 MPR, it has a built in flush cup which is handy for attaching a sling without adding more hardware: https://www.accu-shot.com/catalog_new/accessories-official-manufacturer/64-bt15-335-1913-rail.html

P7130016.JPG

P9240014.JPG


Nice P94 BTW, wish you the best of luck with it(y)
 
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Thanks, Ill looks for those nuts (insert joke?), but thats great if thats all I need for a proper install

Per the bag I was just going to use my one SAP bag, will there be stages where I need two bags with the bipod?


 
You can get square shaped nuts that slot into the rail and then these accept the Picatinny rail screws. Just make sure the screws are compatible with the nuts obviously (metric/imperial). I searched my email looking for where I bought mine to give you a link but I couldn't find it. Maybe try NordicMarksman.com. Search Google for a UIT Rail Nut or an Anschutz Rail Nut. Alternatively, I've read an M6 flange nut with some filing down will work as a DIY method (on some rails anyway). I have a few at home but haven't had the need to file them down yet so can't 100% verify but looks like they should work.

I use this rail on my 1761 MPR, it has a built in flush cup which is handy for attaching a sling without adding more hardware: https://www.accu-shot.com/catalog_new/accessories-official-manufacturer/64-bt15-335-1913-rail.html

View attachment 7458884
View attachment 7458885

Nice P94 BTW, wish you the best of luck with it(y)

Does this look about right?

4-clamp-piece5511553.jpg



ET_Handstopp_Biathlon_4738U2_2013-05_Page_1.jpg



As I see it, folks arnt carrying these rifles for miles at a time, what about using a slig/cuff like this?

sling-cuff-and-hand-stop-package3111276.jpg
 
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Does this look about right?

Yes..and no! The nut you pictured will work with that particular hand stop all right. That nut, once slid into the rail, will protrude beyond the rail. That hand stop pictured has a slot to accommodate this protrusion.

If you want to mount a Picatinny rail like I have on my rifle you'll need a lower profile nut that does not protrude below the bottom of the rail - otherwise when the screw is tightened it will just marry up against the nut and not squeeze the rail. You'll need something like these:

1604177600450.png

1604177711017.png


Images above borrowed from here: https://www.tactical-evo.com/en/mou...placement-screws-with-uit-plate-for-rail.html
 
I shoot the same rifle for Long range 22 matches. The gun is phenomenal and will shoot certain Ammo 1/2 MOA at 100 yards and beyond. I mounted an arca rail to the existing rail with the square nuts previously mentioned and run an Atlas bipod as well as RRS Tripod off this set up.

Also get yourself a DIY 25 MOA pic rail ... you will need that to get out there past 300 yards.

- Good Shooting.

The only downside to this rig is shooting weak side (lefty) off barrades due to the shape of the adj. cheek rest ...
 
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As I see it, folks arnt carrying these rifles for miles at a time, what about using a slig/cuff like this?

I use an Ulfhednar PRS Sling but there are other brands that do similar. The front part of the sling can be choked down on the arm like a cuff. I've used a QD connector that snaps into the cup on my Picatinny rail. I actually only use the front part, I don't carry the rifle with it. We have a competition for scoped sporting rifles with a max. weight of 10.5lbs shot from prone using a single point attachment sling and that's where I use it.

https://www.skytterlinken.com/catalog/product/view/id/4960/s/prs-shooting-sling/category/472/
 
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Went with this one

99-F355-CF-81-C8-4-EE6-9643-472-B01-E4-C24-E.jpg

still debating a hand stop.

one question, I was about to order a bipod and it got me to wonder, with how easy it is to remove and install a railed bipod these days, do most here have a bipod, sling, bags for each rifle, or do they swap one between their platforms?

I never was into swapping or quick changing a scope for the zero, but a bipod hmm
 
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If you have a quick release it's easy enough to do
 
how easy it is to remove and install a railed bipod these days

When you say a "railed Bipod" what exactly are you referring to? A bipod that mounts directly to the UIT rail or a bipod that mounts to a Picatinny rail? I cannot comment on the former but removing a bipod from a Picatinny rail takes seconds if you have a quick release cam style attachment rather than a bolt that requires an Allen key. (Apologies if I picked you up incorrectly)

Edit: Forgot about an Arca rail - these can be swapped in seconds also with a quick release.
 
When you say a "railed Bipod" what exactly are you referring to? A bipod that mounts directly to the UIT rail or a bipod that mounts to a Picatinny rail? I cannot comment on the former but removing a bipod from a Picatinny rail takes seconds if you have a quick release cam style attachment rather than a bolt that requires an Allen key. (Apologies if I picked you up incorrectly)

Edit: Forgot about an Arca rail - these can be swapped in seconds also with a quick release.

yeah, I meant Picatinny

So do most here share a bipod between rifles? Is there any downside I’m just not thinking of?

Thanks
 
I would look to a QR pic mount than trying to fuss with screw on Pic mounts.
 
I would look to a QR pic mount than trying to fuss with screw on Pic mounts.

I have a quick detach atlas on my tikka tac that I was just thinking of sharing between the two, not like I’m going to be shooting both at the same time
 
One last question, how does this look for a rail?

Any better options?


84-C1-EDF6-8-E84-41-CA-BF68-7-FFDF68-ACADC.jpg


With these rings


9-EE8-CEC0-8919-4-AA2-9-AA2-0-B337258-E95-D.jpg



Or would I just be better off with their dovetail rings since I don’t see myself taking the optic off shy of it being damaged?
Seems they have some MOA dovetail rings too
Seems just going with straight dovetail rings with the MOA built in would be less parts, seems less parts = more solid

lit also appears the rail uses set screws to gouge into the top of the receiver, vs the rings use clamping force, perhaps more surface area contact with the rings?


588555-DC-DF10-42-C3-BCC1-E7305563-BD8-B.jpg
 
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Went with this one

99-F355-CF-81-C8-4-EE6-9643-472-B01-E4-C24-E.jpg

still debating a hand stop.

one question, I was about to order a bipod and it got me to wonder, with how easy it is to remove and install a railed bipod these days, do most here have a bipod, sling, bags for each rifle, or do they swap one between their platforms?

I never was into swapping or quick changing a scope for the zero, but a bipod hmm
ATLAS makes great products so you have chosen wisely, grasshopper. I have BT28s' installed on my euroOptic Special Edition Sako Quad as well as on my Tac Ops X-Ray 51 & X-Ray 66 and use QD picatinny mount bipods on them. For me, the QD is pure convenience since I shoot off bipods most of the time and rarely remove them. I've been using BT28s' for about nine (9) years now and they're never loosened up on my Quad, X-Ray 51 (.308), or X-Ray 66 (.300WM).

Below are photos of the BT28s' in the 10" Anschutz Rails in my Quad and X-Ray 66. The screws on the Quad have been CeraKoted Graphite Black to match the rest of the metal. The screws on the Quad are TorX, so I upgraded the screws on the BT28 and the Anschutz Rail the BT28 rides in so all of the screws are TorX now. The Anschutz Rails, BT28s', and screws on my X-Rays' are coated in Tac Ops Green T & Black-T to match the rest of the metal on the X-Rays.

euroOptic Sako Quad w/QD picatinny bipod on BT28 in 10" Anschutz Rail, PMII 5-25[56] atop 45 MOA Murphy Precision Picatinny Rail:




Tac Ops X-Ray 66 w/QD picatinny bipod on BT28 in 10" Anschutz Rail, PMII 5-25[56] atop 45 MOA Murphy Precision Two-Piece Base:




One last question, how does this look for a rail?

Any better options?


84-C1-EDF6-8-E84-41-CA-BF68-7-FFDF68-ACADC.jpg


With these rings


9-EE8-CEC0-8919-4-AA2-9-AA2-0-B337258-E95-D.jpg



Or would I just be better off with their dovetail rings since I don’t see myself taking the optic off shy of it being damaged?
Seems they have some MOA dovetail rings too
Seems just going with straight dovetail rings with the MOA built in would be less parts, seems less parts = more solid

lit also appears the rail uses set screws to gouge into the top of the receiver, vs the rings use clamping force, perhaps more surface area contact with the rings?


588555-DC-DF10-42-C3-BCC1-E7305563-BD8-B.jpg
I've never used Kelbly Rings, but I do know that Kelbly actions, rifles, bases, and rings products are in competition, including Benchrest, so I'm sure they're of the highest quality. If you go with the Kelby rings (or some other rings with built-in cant such as the Burris Signature Rings), depending upon the Elevation range of your scope you may or may not need additional cant and can mount the rings directly to the receiver. I'm not an engineer, but the two (2) ring clamps almost assuredly have more surface contact (i.e. bearing area) than the six (6) set screws of the DIP Rail.

I'm also of a mind that less parts (more simple setup) means less tolerance stacking and less chance of failure somewhere. Although DIP's Quad picatinny rail has eight (8) set screws instead of the six (6) of the P94's. "Window-type PMII 5-25[56]s' weigh a whopping 38oz. without rings or other accessories so I thought about this long and hard before I chose to have Cameron Murphy (Murphy Precision) machine me a 45 degree titanium rail to mount the PMII 5-25[56] on. Like the DIP rail, my Murphy Rail also uses eight (8) set screws, and because none of the four (4) cartridges the Quad shoots generate much recoil I decided to go with the Murphy Rail. Knock-on-wood, the Rail hasn't slipped the slightest bit.

CeraKoted 45 MOA Murphy Precision Titanium picatinny Rail with PMII 5-25[56] in APA 1.031" height rings mounted on top:





Keith
 
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ATLAS makes great products so you have chosen wisely, grasshopper. I have BT28s' installed on my euroOptic Special Edition Sako Quad as well as on my Tac Ops X-Ray 51 & X-Ray 66 and use QD picatinny mount bipods on them. For me, the QD is pure convenience since I shoot off bipods most of the time and rarely remove them. I've been using BT28s' for about nine (9) years now and they're never loosened up on my Quad, X-Ray 51 (.308), or X-Ray 66 (.300WM).

Below are photos of the BT28s' in the 10" Anschutz Rails in my Quad and X-Ray 66. The screws on the Quad have been CeraKoted Graphite Black to match the rest of the metal. The screws on the Quad are TorX, so I upgraded the screws on the BT28 and the Anschutz Rail the BT28 rides in so all of the screws are TorX now. The Anschutz Rails, BT28s', and screws on my X-Rays' are coated in Tac Ops Green T & Black-T to match the rest of the metal on the X-Rays.

euroOptic Sako Quad w/QD picatinny bipod on BT28 in 10" Anschutz Rail, PMII 5-25[56] atop 45 MOA Murphy Precision Picatinny Rail:




Tac Ops X-Ray 51 w/QD picatinny bipod on BT28 in 10" Anschutz Rail, PMII 5-25[56] atop 45 MOA Murphy Precision Two-Piece Base:





I've never used Kelbly Rings, but I do know that Kelbly actions, rifles, bases, and rings products are in competition, including Benchrest, so I'm sure they're of the highest quality. If you go with the Kelby rings (or some other rings with built-in cant such as the Burris Signature Rings), depending upon the Elevation range of your scope you may or may not need additional cant and can mount the rings directly to the receiver. I'm not an engineer, but the two (2) ring clamps almost assuredly have more surface contact (i.e. bearing area) than the six (6) set screws of the DIP Rail.

I'm also of a mind that less parts (more simple setup) means less tolerance stacking and less chance of failure somewhere. Although DIP's Quad picatinny rail has eight (8) set screws instead of the six (6) of the P94's. "Window-type PMII 5-25[56]s' weigh a whopping 38oz. without rings or other accessories so I thought about this long and hard before I chose to have Cameron Murphy (Murphy Precision) machine me a 45 degree titanium rail to mount the PMII 5-25[56] on. Like the DIP rail, my Murphy Rail also uses eight (8) set screws, and because none of the four (4) cartridges the Quad shoots generate much recoil I decided to go with the Murphy Rail. Knock-on-wood, the Rail hasn't slipped the slightest bit.

CeraKoted 45 MOA Murphy Precision Titanium picatinny Rail with PMII 5-25[56] in APA 1.031" height rings mounted on top:





Keith

Beautiful rifles!

Well I have her together,

Thanks for all the pointers

VERY happy with the result and I almost want to Sako all the things now.

F851-E92-A-A22-A-4-C0-E-B1-F0-F261-CCB18-F95.jpg



Question,
I was going to zero it at 50yrds, however I think the stronger you make your constants the better you are at calculating the variables and producing a more accurate solution, so I thought it might be ideal to zero in a climate controlled indoor range.

Issues is best I can find is a 25yrd range

According to Strelok, the difference between 25 and 50 yards is only 0.1MOA, which on my scope isn’t even a click.

I have the rifle zeroed where it’s putting every round ether in, or touching the same hole at 25yrds, I have it zeroed, zero stops set, I used my weather meter to lock in my zero conditions into stelock, would this be good..or would I be better re-zeroing outside at 50yrds??




25
F8603-A4-D-D395-4-F2-A-9-BFE-C77-B25651-DE8.jpg




What it should be at 50
66-A8-A794-CDDE-4-CB6-A0-BC-C58-D336052-DC.jpg
 
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An option for a Picatinny canted scope rail are Accuracy International dovetail scope mounts. They are a direct fit for Sako 22lr dovetail actions (P94S Finnfire & P04R Quad) and perform beautifully. They come in assorted cants (0, 18, 28, and 45MOA). They are relatively inexpensive and you can find great deals here on the Hide. Mile High Shooting has them in stock.
 
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