Sako TRG22 .308

[The GIF-fer]

Heya everyone. New to the Forum, and if this has been answered, please excuse me.

Just picked up a Used TRG 22. I have no clue how old it is, but looks to be in excellent shape. Came with Sako bipod and a rail, unknown cant.

Looking to install a muzzle device for a suppressor, but need to make sure of the thread pitch. It's definitely NOT 5/8ths. Is M18X1 correct?

In addition, keeping the stock chassis and not changing to KRG, I'm looking for specific parts I can add. 30 MOA top rail, ARCA bottom, INVR etc. Would appreciate recommendations and links to parts known to work. I'm new to this level of things and would appreciate guidance getting the rifle set up the way it deserves.

Zeiss mid rings and Blackhound 4-32 scope on top.

 

[GBMaryland]

M18x1 for sure.

Best option if to get the M18x1 adapter from Area 419, and then get their Hell Fire self timing brake.

 

[GBMaryland]

In so far as the rail, contact Near Manufacturing (Richard Near) for your 30MOA rail.

You will not find a better product for that from anyone else. Period.

Remember to warm up receive with a heat gun prior to removing the screws for your current rail, if you have one. They tend to break.

 

[GBMaryland]

Oh, and if you decide that 308 sucks, SAC (short action customs) or PVA (patriot valley) are very competent at removing the original barrel and installing a new one. (KRG sells then with a barrel nut system.)

 

[CerebralDistortion]

Heya everyone. New to the Forum, and if this has been answered, please excuse me.

Just picked up a Used TRG 22. I have no clue how old it is, but looks to be in excellent shape. Came with Sako bipod and a rail, unknown cant.

Looking to install a muzzle device for a suppressor, but need to make sure of the thread pitch. It's definitely NOT 5/8ths. Is M18X1 correct?

In addition, keeping the stock chassis and not changing to KRG, I'm looking for specific parts I can add. 30 MOA top rail, ARCA bottom, INVR etc. Would appreciate recommendations and links to parts known to work. I'm new to this level of things and would appreciate guidance getting the rifle set up the way it deserves.

Zeiss mid rings and Blackhound 4-32 scope on top.

Welcome!

As stated, M18x1.

Browse around first, before buying any parts. Do you need a 30 MOA rail? Or would a Spuhr be a better choice? Or a new scope with the adjustability?

Front end ARCA kind of suggests a chassis? Check out KRG and others. I know, you said you do not want a KRG, but an ARCA rail on a stock forend... kind of spells trouble... or wonky custom job.

As for any other stuff, check the for sale ads here.

But most importantly: Get out and shoot!

 

[kthomas]

M18x1 for sure.

Best option if to get the M18x1 adapter from Area 419, and then get their Hell Fire self timing brake.

Insite Arms Heathen self timing brake is also available in that thread pitch, just to throw out some more options.

 

[TheOE800]

Sawtooth makes a ~7” ARCA rail with Anschutz hardware, just file the height of the hardware to fit the depth Sako’s Anschutz rail.

R-Lock Dovetail Rail: Universal Anschutz

Universal Fit R-Lock/Arca Dovetail Rails for Anschutz type attachment.

www.sawtoothrifles.com

 

[carbonbased]

If you just want a simple direct thread adapter for a suppressor, I’ve had great luck with CNCWarrior.com.

And Near Manufacturing is awesome for rails and his rings look interesting.

Pro tip: call him, don’t bother emailing. He’s old school.

 

[ToKeepAndBear]

The rail is a pain in the butt to get off! If you can deal with the 0moa factory rail, I would probably leave it alone and get a Spuhr pic unimount. I removed mine and put a Spuhr direct attach dovetail mount on it. It completely eliminates the rail interface and includes cant.

The Sako bipod is pretty sweet! As others have said, it is M18x1 on the threads.

It is a great rifle! If you are not careful your collection will grow soon. I have two 22s and a 42. They are like a duty grade Tikka! They are built up solid, easy to shoot, and have a wonderful bolt throw and trigger.

 

[The GIF-fer]

All very solid answers, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the replies everyone.

 

[RaptorAddict]

In so far as the rail, contact Near Manufacturing (Richard Near) for your 30MOA rail.

You will not find a better product for that from anyone else. Period.

Remember to warm up receive with a heat gun prior to removing the screws for your current rail, if you have one. They tend to break.

I second this.

 

[TheOE800]

I’ll third that.

 

[bobkhan]

Dude, where are the pics of that sweet gun? Post them up!!

 

[RRW]

I second this.

Richard's customer service is also outstanding. This is my personal experience. Several years ago I bought a new TRG22 which had the factory rail. Richard's TRG rails are far superior to the factory mount. It was a Sunday afternoon and I called him to my surprise he answered. I live about 45 mins drive from Richard's shop. Richard is a private pilot and was actually up flying when he answered. I told him what I needed and he said he will fly back pick up a base if I could meet him later that evening at a small airport close to our house. We set up a time, the wife and I met him at the airport and he exchanged the rail for me no charge. He also offered a plane ride to me and the wife. The plane was a small 2 seater so he took the wife up first and then I went up and we got to do some rolls and stuff, it was a blast. He also gave me one of his Alpha mounts to try out. He didn't have to answer the phone on a Sunday afternoon, especially when flying but that's what I call bending over backwards for someone. He is very meticulous with his work as well. I went and visited him at his shop and he cut down my barrel for me. Nothing but good thing's to say about Richard. He is also an accomplished 50 cal shooter as well.

 

[skatz11]

KRG has a great write up on the TRG.

https://kineticresearchgroup.com/download/7043/

 

[okeefe]

I just had mine re-threaded for 5/8 x 24. It will give you a lot more options for muzzle devices.

 

[Quarter Horse]

This won't solve your muzzle threading problem but is an EZ fix for elevation. You can mount them to your existing 0MOA factory rail and choose inserts that will give you as much as 40MOA.

BURRIS 30mm X-High (1.50") XTR Rings SKU: 118000170 | Brownells

Check out the BURRIS 30mm X-High (1.50") XTR Rings SKU: 118000170 available Online at Brownells Today and many more Scope Rings products are available in our Optics Department.

www.brownells.com

 

[The GIF-fer]

Well, I decided to listen to the warnings about the potential of the rail screws breaking and ordered a 30MOA 1.5" Spuhr Uni. I didn't realize how adaptable the Spuhr mount is until I watched a video tonight, which made the price more palatable. Can attach a lot of toys, which trips my trigger LOL! Integrated anti-cant is a must, because I'm a klutz.

ITRS also in hand now, and I'll figure out how to mount the thing. Also went with Area 419 for the muzzle device, I like their other stuff I have. ARCA kit enroute from Canada, found in another thread here.

I do have plans to own a TRG 42 .338 eventually, and with what I learn on this one I'll set it up the same.

 

[TheOE800]

ITRS also in hand now, and I'll figure out how to mount the thing. Also went with Area 419 for the muzzle device, I like their other stuff I have. ARCA kit enroute from Canada, found in another thread here.

IIRC you need to remove the action from the backbone which isn’t difficult, but then you need to remove the front backbone from the polymer forend. You will want a soldering iron to heat up the heads of those screws as you can’t apply heat directly to them due to the polymer forend.

 

[CerebralDistortion]

IIRC you need to remove the action from the backbone which isn’t difficult, but then you need to remove the front backbone from the polymer forend. You will want a soldering iron to heat up the heads of those screws as you can’t apply heat directly to them due to the polymer forend.

Heat? No.

A 4 mm hex bit/key should be enough.

 

[RaptorAddict]

I do have plans to own a TRG 42 .338 eventually, and with what I learn on this one I'll set it up the same.

Careful with that thought. I too am after the .338 in this rifle, but looks like the A1 will be the only option soon at double the price. But nothing wrong with learning the way on a different sexy rifle. All much fun!

 

[GBMaryland]

Heat? No.

A 4 mm hex bit/key should be enough.

However, when you put everything back together, it might not be a bad idea to use some blue Loctite.

 

[CerebralDistortion]

However, when you put everything back together, it might not be a bad idea to use some blue Loctite.

Yes it would.

Blue Loctite and the like should never be used on a rifle unless you intend to disassemble it in a near future. For a couple of reasons, but mainly because it can provide a false positive (the screw feels tight but doesn't provide enough clamping force).

 

[GBMaryland]

The screws on the OEM non-A1 stock and forearm should be blue loctited... especially on any of the TRG42s.

The TRG42A1 (and the TRG22A1) have plenty of thread locker on them from the factory... and it should used during reassembly.

If people are not paying attention when they reassemble their chassis, then there are other issues; blue or purple loctite should NEVER be an issue.

Under no circumstances should red loctite be used for anything.

 

[CerebralDistortion]

The screws on the OEM non-A1 stock and forearm should be blue loctited... especially on any of the TRG42s.

Why? I've never had any trouble with mine (plural).

The TRG42A1 (and the TRG22A1) have plenty of thread locker on them from the factory... and it should used during reassembly.

Yes, but then again they are not 22/42's but an aluminium chassis construction that does not withstand the correct torque for the screw used.

I've seen, too many times, people not cleaning out the old Loctite and the applying more. Resulting in congealed Loctite in the threads or between the mating surfaces preventing the pieces to stay together. People not having the correct tap, or bothering to buy one, just adding more Loctite and or force to get the screw snug.

Hence my rule of thumb never to recommend Loctite on anything to anyone. People will use it as glue to make things stick together.

If people are not paying attention when they reassemble their chassis, then there are other issues;

Exactly. And probably a lack of proficiency. It's easier to screw up than to screw things together.

Under no circumstances should red loctite be used for anything.

Well we agree on that at least.

 

[GBMaryland]

Yeah, I've had 4 TRG42s and 1 TRG22.... very familiar with assembly and disassembly.

 

[Zigjib]

Can anyone tell me the minimum length of pull on the trg22?
thanks
Carso

 

[GBMaryland]

Man… I want to say that it’s around 13.5in (although it’s in millimeters so I don’t know what that really translates to).

I had to add a lot of spacers to get the proper length of pull , which would mean that it’s a fairly short length of pull.

 

[Zigjib]

Man… I want to say that it’s around 13.5in (although it’s in millimeters so I don’t know what that really translates to).

I had to add a lot of spacers to get the proper length of pull , which would mean that it’s a fairly short length of pull.

Mm is fine, and short is good. Are you able to measure it?

 

[.505gibbs]

Mm is fine, and short is good. Are you able to measure it?

 

[Zigjib]

View attachment 8365800

oh you're awesome mate!

is that with 2 spacers added?

 

[.505gibbs]

Yes, two spacers. It came that way from the factory.

 

[Zigjib]

Yes, two spacers. It came that way from the factory.

Legend mate, thankyou very much