Photos Savage 358 Winchester Flectar
- Thread starter Carphunter
- Start date
Re: Savage 358 Winchester Flectar
Gun is a Stevens 200 .243 rebarreled with a 358 Winchester Stainless barrel. Rifle Basix trigger group, EGW rail. Used the Aervoe camo paints Brownells sells and BullDog Arms Flectar stencils. Scope's a Trij. 2.5-10x56 with a red post. (I'd put on a tr34g...but I haven't sold off my Grendel AR yet to pay for that toy
)
While I know rattle can paint won't hold up like a bake on whatever finish... I just wanted to play. The paint seems to come off the plastic stock in certain areas a little easier than others. I've got some ideas as to why (not so much the paint's issue... more things I did while prepping). It was de-oiled...but I put a first coat on the stock incorrectly (held can too far from stock...allowing paint to actually sort of dry before hitting stock...per aervoe, you have to shoot from 6-8 inches and i was probably further back). Well, I sanded off the rough surface of that finish...when I should have sanded hard down to plastic again, or stripped it with acetone. i think this poorly laid down layer is what allows subsequent spots to pull away.
We'll see how it holds up through beating on it in deer season.
Gun is a Stevens 200 .243 rebarreled with a 358 Winchester Stainless barrel. Rifle Basix trigger group, EGW rail. Used the Aervoe camo paints Brownells sells and BullDog Arms Flectar stencils. Scope's a Trij. 2.5-10x56 with a red post. (I'd put on a tr34g...but I haven't sold off my Grendel AR yet to pay for that toy
While I know rattle can paint won't hold up like a bake on whatever finish... I just wanted to play. The paint seems to come off the plastic stock in certain areas a little easier than others. I've got some ideas as to why (not so much the paint's issue... more things I did while prepping). It was de-oiled...but I put a first coat on the stock incorrectly (held can too far from stock...allowing paint to actually sort of dry before hitting stock...per aervoe, you have to shoot from 6-8 inches and i was probably further back). Well, I sanded off the rough surface of that finish...when I should have sanded hard down to plastic again, or stripped it with acetone. i think this poorly laid down layer is what allows subsequent spots to pull away.
We'll see how it holds up through beating on it in deer season.
Re: Savage 358 Winchester Flectar
If you want to shoot plastic with rattlecan, use Krylon Fusion.
You would not believe how much time I put in to get Duracoat
or Alumihyde II to stick to AICS skins.
If you want to shoot plastic with rattlecan, use Krylon Fusion.
You would not believe how much time I put in to get Duracoat
or Alumihyde II to stick to AICS skins.
Re: Savage 358 Winchester Flectar
I actually did some tests with fusion and this stuff.... they performed about the same... my end result issues were due to my prep issues... not the paint.
I actually did some tests with fusion and this stuff.... they performed about the same... my end result issues were due to my prep issues... not the paint.
Re: Savage 358 Winchester Flectar
well, I think I've learned something... don't paint the rail.
It's tough to get rings to clamp on to the painted surface uniformly. I think I've used up a lot of my windage adjustment because the two rings are slightly off kilter. I got the scope to zero...but I think I'm near the edge of the adjustment range (when I like to keep it more centered. Could just be the EGW rail and how well the stock mount holes are drilled... but before next season, I'm going to strip the paint off where the mounts go so it's not even a consideration. Normally, I will set up two scopes on rings so I can change them in a catastrophe. My setups in the past have been so good I could mount, unmount and remount and be zeroed again.... right now, as it is... I won't pull my primary scope off because I really question if I can match the clamping tension (and I've got only two weeks to season... so I don't want to have to deal with another trip to the range - which is now packed with hunters sighting in).
well, I think I've learned something... don't paint the rail.
It's tough to get rings to clamp on to the painted surface uniformly. I think I've used up a lot of my windage adjustment because the two rings are slightly off kilter. I got the scope to zero...but I think I'm near the edge of the adjustment range (when I like to keep it more centered. Could just be the EGW rail and how well the stock mount holes are drilled... but before next season, I'm going to strip the paint off where the mounts go so it's not even a consideration. Normally, I will set up two scopes on rings so I can change them in a catastrophe. My setups in the past have been so good I could mount, unmount and remount and be zeroed again.... right now, as it is... I won't pull my primary scope off because I really question if I can match the clamping tension (and I've got only two weeks to season... so I don't want to have to deal with another trip to the range - which is now packed with hunters sighting in).
