Gunsmithing Savage Barrel Change Repeatability

[fvalmostthere]

Currently have a savage 6.5 creedmoor and still working off the factory barrel. While I love the gun and the barrel shoots great it isn't threaded and it is still a factory barrel. I am only at about 1400 rounds down the pipe and definitely want to get full life out of the barrel but I am itching for a custom barrel and to try 6mm. If I were to not wait and get a new barrel now, and swap them back and forth would my loads change? I don't want to have to do load development every time i swap the barrel back and forth.

 

[MarinePMI]

You'd mostly likely have the HS change when you first set the CM barrel with whatever HS gauge you purchase (PTG, Clymer, Manson, etc.). As long as you use the same HS gauge, your loads shouldn't change when you swap barrels. Obviously, it'll change the first time, as there is no guarantee your headspace gauge will be the same as the factory one.

HTH

 

[fvalmostthere]

That makes sense thank you

 

[Steel head]

I took a barrel off a savage and put it on a ARC nucleus, headspaced same as savage within A thousandth or two.
load stayed the same.
Then barrel went back on the savage, same load again.

 

[Marksman]

This is often a problem I have. I get a one of my switch barrel rigs shooting really well and get too afraid to take the barrel off. Then I just end up buying another rifle. That's probally why I have 8 "switch" barrel rifles.

 

[Steel head]

This is often a problem I have. I get a one of my switch barrel rigs shooting really well and get too afraid to take the barrel off. Then I just end up buying another rifle. That's probally why I have 8 "switch" barrel rifles.

lol.
They multiply.

 

[Garyc]

As long as you mark the barrel and receiver and replace the old barrel where it was you shouldn't need to work up a new load.

 

[hereinaz]

Red loctite the barrel nut (and just the barrel nut) when headspacing the first time. Put witness marks on the barrel, nut and receiver bottom.

Then, when you pull the barrel from the rifle, the barrel nut doesn't move and it is now headspaced semi permanently, more like a shouldered barrel set for that action. No need to goof gauges to match the headspace as you assemble it again. Just watch your witness marks to confirm the nut didn't move on the barrel. AND, don't change recoil lugs. Yes, double check with a gauge after you finish. It is far more repeatable for the shade tree "gunsmith" and much faster than having to set it all up again. That is what I did with a Savage switch barrel set up I had.

If you want, I have also heard you could solder the barrel nut on or I have heard you can pin it with a VERY VERY shallow pin or allen set screw through the barrel nut, if you just knocked down the threads.

Use an action wrench and barrel nut wrench and you are good to swap in a couple minutes.

 

[Buckshot0351]

With frequent barrel changes, at what point do you need to be concerned about the threads in the receiver needing attention?

 

[gnochi]

With frequent barrel changes, at what point do you need to be concerned about the threads in the receiver needing attention?

You should be good for at least a few thousand barrel changes, unless you get grit or water or other contaminants in the threads.

As far as general repeatability is concerned, I use an ARC Barloc (barrel nut version) and have better-than-0.1mrad return to zero across ~10 futzings when the barrel is tightened onto my go gauge.

 

[MakeSawdust]

Red loctite the barrel nut (and just the barrel nut) when headspacing the first time. Put witness marks on the barrel, nut and receiver bottom.

Then, when you pull the barrel from the rifle, the barrel nut doesn't move and it is now headspaced semi permanently, more like a shouldered barrel set for that action. No need to goof gauges to match the headspace as you assemble it again. Just watch your witness marks to confirm the nut didn't move on the barrel. AND, don't change recoil lugs. Yes, double check with a gauge after you finish. It is far more repeatable for the shade tree "gunsmith" and much faster than having to set it all up again. That is what I did with a Savage switch barrel set up I had.

If you want, I have also heard you could solder the barrel nut on or I have heard you can pin it with a VERY VERY shallow pin or allen set screw through the barrel nut, if you just knocked down the threads.

Use an action wrench and barrel nut wrench and you are good to swap in a couple minutes.

This^. Red loctite is your friend, but be careful. The first time you pull the barrel to loctite the nut you can use deprimed, fired brass to get it set to the same headspace as before. Once you close the bolt on a piece of brass it is done. Get another one to check the next time to make sure you didn't crush it. Also, an action wrench in conjunction with a torque wrench will help with repeatability by allowing you to make sure the barrel is tight enough, but not too tight.