Gunsmithing Savage bolt sticking after Lambeth bolt lift kit install

[Matno]

Weird problem. I have a Savage Model 10 Predator that I just installed a Lambeth bolt lift kit in. As part of the install, I had to replace the firing pin with an older one (without the cocking indicator). I polished a few of the "usual" surfaces in the back of the bolt, including the cocking piece sleeve and pin, but didn't touch the forward (bolt head) end. Firing pin protrusion measures the same as it did before I started. I did back the firing pin spring tension off a couple of turns to reduce some of that resistance (because you can adjust the spring tension with the bolt lift kit installed). Thoroughly cleaned everything and added a very light layer of lube to all important surfaces.

Following installation of everything, the bolt lift was, indeed MUCH better. (Still a Savage, but huge difference). However, As I work the bolt, after about 20 times, it started to get harder, to the point that it would not lift all the way up. I had to completely remove the bolt assembly screw to even get the bolt out of the action. Took everything apart, put it back together, worked perfectly but then did the same thing after working the action about 20-30 times. This has happened several times now with the same result, and it really has me scratching my head.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Steel head]

Take that junk out.
Don’t mess with savage perfection!

 

[ShooterwithNoName]

I don't know what all the bolt kit consists of. But I've ran into the stock screw being a little too tight can cause bolts to bind and not open. I don't think that's the case here since you can run it several times before it does it.

What all is included in the bolt lift kit?

 

[Matno]

Just a replacement bolt assembly screw that has a smaller set screw in it and a cap at the rear of the cocking sleeve. (Serves two purposes, the bolt assembly screw has a single pivot point for less friction, and you can adjust your firing pin spring tension without disassembling anything). I don't think that was the problem. After 6 disassembly/reassembly cycles, I think I may have figured it out. I think it was the new firing pin, and specifically the lock washers. I had polished the flats of the firing pin and the cocking sleeve, but this time I chucked the entire firing pin mechanism in a drill (including the cocking piece sleeve), and spun the outer spines of the washers through some 600 grit sandpaper. I'm now up to about 100 cycles of the bolt with no noticeable increase in resistance, so fingers crossed that that was the problem...! If so, it was a little headache in exchange for enough of an improvement that it almost doesn't feel like a Savage any more! Gonna be stoked if it stays like this...

 

[ShooterwithNoName]

Nice... Good deal. Yea Savages are notorious for being hard to cam. My dad bought a 10 predator in 260 and it was really tough. Nice rifle, it never really did break in though. Was hard enough that it would seriously knock your POA off every time you calmed the bolt up.

I'll keep kit that in mind if I get another Savage. I've really been wanting to build a 224V bolt action. I have considered going Savage because of the ease of changing the bolt head to a .420".

Hope you got it sorted, sounds like you are good to go. I like working on guns and I enjoy learning about them even if I don't own one at the time.

 

[Matno]

Yeah, now that I figured out the problem (the new savage firing pin), I can wholeheartedly recommend the Lambeth kit. (Plus he's great about answering questions). Combined with the recommended polishing, my bolt lift is actually significantly lighter than I expected it to be. I can now work the bolt without losing my view of the target, which I wasn't even close to before!