• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

2guard

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 22, 2008
549
0
50
nashville, tn
I've had the itch to build a 22 lately, and I found a FVT mkii on gunbroker and bought it for $250, and it came with 3 mags, so I think it was a pretty good deal. I looked at the new TR, but think they are a little over-priced just for a stock and bolt handle upgrade. So, after hearing about Boyds tacticool stock, I went to order one when they had the sale posted here. They were unfortunately sold out. So a few days passed and I was on the boyds site again, and found some tacticool seconds in the crazydeals section, and they were only $50, so I ordered one. It came in last week, and the the only flaws I could find were a little proud metal area they had marked around the magazine bottom metal area, and a little wood missing from the front screw area around the magazine well. I removed the buttpad, because I have ordered an adjustable one, and the stock is made from nutmeg laminate. The stock did not appear finished like the others I have seen that have a textured look to them. Just what I wanted anyway.
2wfjy9i.jpg

v3kkup.jpg


After thinking my fvt would be in by today, saturday, I thought I would be out this weekend shooting it with the new stock on. Unfortunately, it will not be here until monday. So, this gave me the weekend to start on the repaint and texture, although I couldnt do a lot, because the buttplate and fitting need to be done before the paint, I took today to texture and test some camo stencils I have drawn up.
I pulled out my collection of camo paint, and bought some more OD and some texture stuff. I picked up some Rustoleum OD, because I like the darker color of it compared to the Krylon and some Valspar stone texture (at over $9 a can at lowes, wow) for the grip and forearm of the stock. A lot of guys are using marinetex, but this stuff has more texture than the Krylon textured paint and looks as good. Just sand down the grip and forearm area where the stone texture will take.
mjlczs.jpg

2lusz2f.jpg


After sanding, I wiped the areas down with denatured alcohol to clean them off, and began taping them off with automotive paint masking tape. I cut some curved corners on a plotter (I own a sign sop, but you can do it by hand with an exacto also) and taped the forearm area to measure 8.75"x4.25", but you could tape it off whatever size is comfortable to you. I taped the grip off under the tang and across the back of the trigger guard, and stopped at the checkrest on the back.
vcqnpj.jpg


Then I taped the remaing areas off with masking paper and tape.
2d12yh5.jpg


I took some screws and placed in the sling swivel stud holes (the stock didnt come with any studs) and prepped an area to spray. Some people will hang the stock by a string and spray it that way, but for the texture I found it easier to spray the grip area first and the flip it over and spray the forearm and the tang area.
2iqe4jd.jpg


Test a piece of wood to see how the texture sprays and what thickness it will put down, and then spray the stock areas.
2lwtc8o.jpg


While you wait for the texture to dry and cure (it claims 4-6 hours on the can), decide which camo you like and start on the stencils. I have access to lots of computers, plotters, printers, and some awesome programs, but you can print these out and cut them by hand also on some of the adhesive paper made for home printers you can get at office depot or officemax. My choices are GAP camo and digital (marpat style). Here they are after I have drawn them and vectorized them (converted to shapes where I can cad cut them on the plotter).
149s6ir.jpg


 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

After the texture is dry, peel the tape off slowly, leaving a clean edge. I chose the tan color for texture so I could see the coverage better against the black stock. If there are any really high texture spots, you can knock them down with an exacto or some light sanding. Just be sure it is completely dry before doing so.
mvhjl1.jpg

rixefk.jpg

xc27ow.jpg

jigfnc.jpg


Now, I'm ready to spray the stock black. Wipe any dirt, trash, dust, or anything else off the stock with a lint free towel or use a tack cloth. This time I will hang the stock by a string from the screws I put into the butt pad screw holes after taking the pad off. Spray a few coats, allowing each coat to dry before spraying the next.
9v8il0.jpg

rj017d.jpg

2a80nme.jpg

2na0ens.jpg
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

i use the stone stuff too, if you hold it back a few feet and let it splatter out more, you tend to get a deeper texture.

but the nicest thing is that you can "adjust" the amount of texture you want using that method. i actually like the stone finish "as is" without a top coat as it looks pretty good taht way too.

looks like it'll be a very nice rifle, post 'em up when done.
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

Nice work! I love a DIYS project. Can't wait to see your rifle in the stock and the final results of your project. By the way, great pics and instructions.
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

Thanks for the Post! I've been looking at doing the same thing but didn't know where to begin. I understand you are putting an adjustable length-of-Pull butt plate on the stock? Who did you go through for it? Boyd's or someone else? thanks once again for the great build pics!!
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

The buttplate is an NOS remington 540xr buttplate (the remington guys may hate me for this) I found from a company in canada, so I hope it will be in this week. last thing I ordered from Canada took over two weeks to get to me. It was close to the same size as the buttpad that came on the stock, and I liked it better than the tubbs adj plate that midway carries, and its quite a bit cheaper.
I will be fitting the stock tonight and trimming around the mount for the peep on the side of the action near the tang. I'm leaning more toward the gap camo in brown, tan, and od. I like the digital, but all the gap stocks I see here always look great.
The rifle is getting topped with a egw 20moa mount, warne quick detach maxima rings and a bushnell legend 5-15x40. I've read good stuff about the warnes returning to zero well, and I will be switching from the peep the scope and hope they will make it a little easier to do so. I have a rifle basix trigger ordered also.
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

Picked up the FVT from my ffl today (shameless plug for Tennessee Gun Country if you are in the Clarksville/ Ft. Campbell area. Those guys are great.) Checked every thing to make sure it was all there and then took the action out of the stock. The FVT has a small area trimmed forward and left of the tang area for the rear peep mounting block that is screwed into the action. If you have one and dont plan on using the peep, you can remove the block and fit it like an ordinary savage stock. I plan on swapping out between my scope and the peeps, because I enjoy shooting them every now and then. I measured the original trimmed area of the composite factory stock, and then marked it on the boyds stock with a white grease pen. Then with my handy faux-dremel, I took a cutoff wheel and cut the area away just above the marked line. I then took a sanding drum on the dremel and smoothed the area against the line. The drum usually doesnt make a completely flat sand due to its shape, so I took a small sanding block and flattened the trimmed area.
1176a88.jpg

2pspzic.jpg

2qscacm.jpg

2s0xt3m.jpg

2chn81g.jpg


now set the action in the stock and test the fit with the peep on. I had to remove it and do some sanding to get the fit and look I wanted.
289getk.jpg


Once fitted, tighten the action in place and check the receiver and barrel areas for fit. Make sure to check the free float of the barrel. My stock was almost a perfect fit on the barrel and receiver. I'll do a quick bedding job after everything is set up and its test fired. I removed the action and sprayed the stock black again, which is like a temporary primer for this stock. I've decided to go with the 3 color GAP camo, because I think it will look nice and retro when the peep and front sight are on.
1zmk08j.jpg
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

I put the action back in the factory stock while I am waiting on the bottom metal and trigger guard to get here, and I went ahead and mounted the EGW 20moa base. The FVT is the new e-receiver and takes the 93 rail instead of the mk2 version. Straight forward mounting, some blue loctite, check it, and tighten down. fit was, as usual with the EGW stuff I have bought, very good. The base does not interfere with the peep sight picture at all.
2cz90xt.jpg

migke9.jpg


I'll be picking up my warne qd rings tomorrow and hopefully test the re-zero and repeatability of them sometime this week. Checked on the buttplate today, and it may get here by friday, but more likely next week. More waiting before I can start on the camo. Hopefully my trigger will come in before the weekend.
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

Thanks for the Step by Step. I'm going to try this on one of my spare barrels at home and if it comes out as good as yours, do it on my others.

Looking forward to seeing how you do the Camo Finish. Hopefully it is something that I can do. Not mechanically or artistically inclined.

Thanks
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

proud metal is where the metal does not stand flush with the wood, raised above it due to inletting not being exact.
proud wood is the opposite, where the stock is inletted too much and the metal sets lower than flush with the stock.
A lot of older european guns would have proud wood form the factory in case the stock was ever refinished, it would have enoughextra wood to sand any dings, scratches or dents out. Hope this helps.

still waiting on the last parts. Trigger guard and bottom metal should be in before the weekend. RB trigger should be here also. Buttplate is still a mystery. Picked up the Warne QD rings yesterday, along with some RWS ammo from midsouth shooters supply. Hopefully I will be able to test some ammo this Sunday.
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

Bottom metal and trigger guard came in today from stockys, both fit fine. I sanded the mag metal area down where it was a little high (nearest the trigger guard), and I roughed up the other end to lay down some devcon to raise it up and level the metal out. I taped the area off, and taped the mag metal and screw (not the action screw, a loose one I have that is approxiamtely the same size). I mixed up some devcon and laid it down on the front end, put some release agent on the tape just for good measure, and put the two pieces together (with the screw in) and taped it down. I also sanded the rear peep mounting area down again and squared the edges off where it looked better.
2s163o1.jpg

2hqxkrr.jpg

2qsckts.jpg


after setting up for 4 hours, I should be able to handle and fit the action to the stock. I'll touch up the sanded areas and trim away the excess devcon also. I test mounted the scope and rings on the egw base. The warne qd rings are low height, and the scope fits almost perfect (could be a tad lower, but is a little over 1/8" between it and the barrel). The legend 5-15x40 has about 3 3/8" eye relief from what I measured. I will level it up and align the reticle once I get the action fitted in the stock. The warne rings tighten up nice and snug, and with almost nil recoil, should not come loose unless it is my choice.
6pq9zs.jpg

2nltukk.jpg


The rifle basix trigger also came in today and I will install it tonight and set it at 1.5lbs. Should make a big difference from the stock accu-trigger.
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

Dropped the rifle basix trigger in, took all of 15 minutes maybe. Really simple and good instructions. I won't post detailed pics of the install, because the instructions give very good photos and steps. Trigger is muuuucchh better and lighter than the accutrigger.
21kz8ys.jpg

1z70w1v.jpg

29bfpzo.jpg


This will be the last time you see it in black. The next coat will be tan, and after I install the adjustable buttplate. I will shoot it in tan, let it dry, and apply the stencils for the first color of the gap camo. I'm going to try to get out and shoot it on sunday for sight in and try to find out which ammo it likes best.
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

that's looking sweet, if your looking to get rid of those "spare" parts let me know.
wink.gif
(pm)

i'm thinking that the goal is to have the scope on, but when wanting to shoot the aperature sights, remove the optic and put the peep back on without having to resight the scope, correct?
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

Thanks everybody. Yes, I want to be able to swap between the scope and peep and I think the warne qd rings will work. Didnt get to work on it yesterday, went to a car show with my brother. But, Ive been busy this morning. The buttplate came in yesterday while I was gone, so it was a nice surprise when I got home last night. I started this morning by removing the old pad and test fitting the plate. It is a really good fit for the stock, and very little work will have to be done sanding the sides and edges of the tact stock. I was able to use the top hole of the existing pad because it was pretty much exactly where up wanted to mount it vertically, and it was already centered. The I centered the rest of the plate and check the fit on the sides and bottom, and sunk the other screw in the bottom portion of the plate (I kept it from sliding with automotive painters tape while I drilled a pilot hole). Then I marked the center area where the cylindrical insert for the adjustable pad will be housed. I removed the plate and marked the center of the cricle and drilled another pilot hole. I used a sharp pencil to mark everything, because it gives a more precise line/point than the grease pencils I used earlier. And the pilot holes keep the laminate from chipping (although hardwood stocks have more of a problem with this than laminate).
21m5lir.jpg

n1taf4.jpg

11i1r34.jpg
.

I measured the tube for the buttpad and picked a 7/8 wood bit to drill the hole, because it is just a tad larger than the tube and will not let it bind if it gets a burr inside the stock. I also measured the length of the tube against the drill bit and placed a tape stop to show the depth while drilling.
walhm9.jpg


Now the work slows a bit. The laminate is very hard, and since the stock wont fit under my drill press, I had to use my trusty dewalt cordless. Go slow, crank the clutch up a bit or the bit will jump more than usual, and drill the hole. Did I mention to take your time and go slow? It took about 15 minutes to drill mine, although the first battery was already down more than I thought, so it went a little faster once I slapped a charged battery on. Every inch or two, slowly pull the bit out while running and evacuate the sawdust built up inside. When you've reach the tape stop, drill about another 1/4", clean the hole out and reinstall the plate with both screws. Then insert the tube and pad and check the fit. You may have to go back and drill a bit more out (I did to get a perfect fit).
106c4e1.jpg

2s7ghtj.jpg

e9dixy.jpg

k2zi8n.jpg
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

Once fitted, remove the tube and pad, after marking the edges where the sanding will be needed. Once marked, start sanding. I start with 100 grit, then 200, and 400. On unpainted stocks, I go to 600, but with the multiple layers of paint on this one, 400g should be enough. Use a block to sand with on all grits and then go back over with the 400 with just a small piece in your fingers. I only had to take off around a 1/16" in the highest places, the sides much less. I rounded the edges, and decided not to notch the top area, ala monte carlo cheek piece, and just round down to the plate. Once you think you're finished, reinstall the plate and check it. I had to re-mark and sand some more to be happy with it.
256sbhk.jpg

n1qadg.jpg

2exlweo.jpg


Now that its fitted, feather the edges out and smooth the painted. Wipe the stock down with denatured alcohol and shoot with compressed air, then hang and paint (in my case, black again). Allow the black to dry and then put down the first color of the camo, tan. The lightest color coat is the best to put down first because the later, darker colors will cover the earlier coats of paint better.
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

excellent project you have going there.

i know it's easy to suggest as it's not my $, but an anschutz styled "T" rail in the front, and an oversized blot knob would really compliment that unit well.
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

How well does that valspar stone texture adhere to synthetics/composites.. I'm deffinately going to texture my tacticool this way but I'd like to also use it on my B&C if i could.
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

i use a similar one, made by rustoleum, it adheres pretty good. i like to hold the can a little ways back to get more splatter, then go over it like earlier in the thread.

nice thing is if you don't like it or want more / less, you can remove it with acetone.
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

Cool write-up. I'll have to try the stone texture before my next paint project.
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

I've ordered a bolt knob from Bills bolt knobs, but dont know when my smith will be able to put it on. I also thought about the rail, champions choice has them for $12 (14"), but I decided just to use swivels on this one. I am thinking about doing a 17hmr like this one, restocking with the boyds tact, etc, so I may do it on that rifle.
I shot the fvt yesterday, and it is quite accurate at 50 and 100. Hates federal gold medal though, but likes the remington/eley match and the rws target, and aguila subsonic also. After I got back from the range, I laid down another coat of tan on and let it dry overnight.
2ci7b7n.jpg


This morning I cut the stencils and put them on the stock. It helps to draw a sketch of the stock and plan roughly where you want the splotches of each color. Remember, color of the stock dictates the splotch color you are putting stencils on for (in this case, tan). I have the camo vectored, so I can size to whatever I wish on the computer and then cut. Depending on your program, you may or may not be able to do that at home (if you are using the adhesive paper that is printable). Or, if you are hand cutting it, you can cut and trim as you like. I used some medium and small sizes for this stock. I cut them from a premium vinyl made by 3M. It has a 2mil thickness, which I like better than the paint mask that is adhesive backed, it is about 3-3.2mil thick. The thinner thickness will leave less of an edge when the stencils are peeled off, and will smooth easier once the clear coat is applied. I also used a brighter color (imitation gold is the actual name) so everyone could see where the stencils are applied on the stock. Once the vinyl is cut by the plotter, remove the excess surrounding the camo. Then the vinyl is covered by transfer tape, made to lift the vinyl from the backing so application is much easier (see below). Squeegee the tape on the vinyl and then cut the shapes out where they can be applied to the stock.
2s7ctw8.jpg

2ainb54.jpg


Now its time to apply the stencils. Refer to your sketch for placement of the stencils, and you will probably change the pattern once you see it on the stock. Pull the vinyl with transfer tape over it from the backing and place the shape on the stock. I use a felt squeegee to press the vinyl down, but you can also use your fingers, just keep the piece tensioned where it doesnt get bubbles underneath (they can be removed with a pin, just poke the bubble and release the air inside. make sure to put a small piece of tape over the hole so no paint will get in). Rub the transfer tape a few times, and slowly lift its edge and peel it away. If an edge lifts, just press it down with your finger. Repeat for as many shapes as you wish on both sides of the stock. Mine wrapped over the top and bottom and other areas also, which is fine. Just take more care when forming the vinyl over shapes. Now, the other reason I used 2mil premium vinyl was where it would lay down better against the textured surface. Rub all of these areas a few times more than the flat ones. I take a heat gun and warm them and then press them down into the texture. Just dont get too close or the heat will deform the vinyl. A hairdryer will also work. You may want to test a seperate piece of wood or other surface to get used to this before attempting it on the stock.
nq1tzd.jpg

14ubzoj.jpg

14w6ipy.jpg


Once youre finished, it's time to lay down another coat of paint, this time brown (some people prefer black in GAP camo, but I like the brown). Hang the stock up be the holes drilled for the buttplate, and spray a few coats and let dry completely.
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

After the coats of brown dry completely, repeat the process of applying the stencils, this time over the brown paint. Heat the areas with texture and make sure they are sealed down. DO NOT peel the other vinyl off at this point. That will be the last step before the clear coat. Now spray the OD. Lay down 3-4 coats of OD and let dry completely between coats and after the final coat. This is the last process of camo color. The OD will be the prevalent color on the stock.
2uiwt9c.jpg

dgkxaa.jpg

2rol551.jpg
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

k50t3a.jpg


After all the OD coats are completely and fully dry, its time to remove the stencils. Take the heat gun and go over the entire stock with it a few times to help cure it some more. Take an exacto knife with a sharp blade, and carefully, repeat, carefully lift the edge of each camo shape and pull the stencil off slowly. Take your time, it may take 30 minutes or more to pull them all off. It will be easier to grab the ones in the textured area than the others, so start them on the textured side if possible. The lines should be clean and lightly built up against the OD. Once all are removed, I used a brush to lightly knock the excess paint slivers, left by pulling the vinyl, off the stock and wiped any dirt, debris, dust , etc from the stock. It's now ready for the satin clear coat. Hang the stock again and spray as many coats as you wish, allowing each to dry before starting the next. I plan on 3-4 coats.
21j0ykx.jpg

2cyjm9t.jpg

xp21jl.jpg
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

That looks gorgeous!! Thanks once again for doing this thread. It is helping to answer some questions I had for my savage.
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

After 3 coats of satin clear, I put the fvt together today and I must say it looks great. I polished the aluminum on the buttplate while I was waiting for the clear to cure and dry, and found some stainless screws to mount it with. I am thinking about painting the trigger guard and bottom metal OD to match the stock, but hate to right now because it looks so good as is. The satin clear is great, just enough shine, and makes the camo shapes and colors stand out even more. For a field gun, I would have left it flat, but after seeing the satin clear, I'm glad I coated it. I had a couple of small runs in the clear, but they can be polished out (another good thing on the clear), but polish them by hand. Any high speed polishing might burn into this type of clear since it is not a 2-part automotive type clear, and is definitely not as hard as auto clear. I used a soft t-shirt rag and polished one out to test, and will probably polish the entire stock after a few days of curing. The clear also helped smooth out any high spots and rough edges in the texture, making the texture more friendly to the hands and still grippy. Hopefully I can get some good pics outside this week or weekend, these just dont do it justice (probably more my old camera than anything). I'll be adding one more swivel on the forearm and having the bolt knob installed when my smith can get to it, but other than that I think the project is done. Now it's time to shoot it.
2j4tunb.jpg

1z5stb4.jpg
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

What a nice project! The end result turned out great by the way... really looks good!

Thanks a bunch for the write up was a good read

Cant wait to get my stock and start on my project
smile.gif
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

I'm starting the paint on my Mark II with the boyds tacticool stock this week. I'm going for the gold and trying to do a digital pattern in 3 colors. I'm using your methods as my instructions to give me the extra confidence to attempt this. I thought long about how to do it, and had an idea, and seeing this thread confirmed the concept that I had in my head, and now i'm going to go for it. If it looks like poo, I can always strip it and paint the stock black, just like it is now.

So if it looks like poo, you'll know 'cause you'll never see pics that I posted of it on here, lol.

Branden
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

definitely try the digital, thats my next paint project. I think I'm going digital on a 10/22 stock in the next week or so. Probably wont texture it because it is a b&c and already has the pebble texture, but I have the stencils drawn for the digital and I'm burning to try them out.
If anyone here would like the vectored files to take to their local sign guy, just pm me and I'll send you the file. It is a gerber .plt file for gerber omega programs. I can't find a way to attach it here on the site, or I would just upload here. I will also post a jpg of the file in b&w so those using the adhesive home printer paper can just print it out and cut it. I used about 10x32" worth of vinyl, and most shops shouldnt charge more than $20 or so with the file. Ask for cast vinyl, or premium vinyl (same thing) to get the thinner 2mil stuff. color really isnt important, and if they have a wierd color left over from a special job, they might give you a discount.

Here's the cost run down on the project in case anyone was wondering:
Savage FVT $250
Boyds tacticool stock $50 plus shipping
EGW 20moa base $35
Warne QD rings $50
Remy 540xr nos buttpl $55 shipped westerngunparts.com in canada
trigger ga & bttm metal $30 plus shipping from stockys
Rifle basix trigger $80 shipped from shooters discount

paint:
Rustoleum or krylon camo paint $4.50 per can
Valspar texture paint $10 per can at lowes
krylon satin clear coat $6

I'll get some more pics up this weekend, and also post the jpgs of the camo. thanks everyone, I had fun!
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

I just started my painting today. Bottom metal is done, curing, and going to clear coat either late tonight, or tomorrow morning sometime. Gotta do a little bit each day until it's done. With 2 kids, I can't get it all done in one day like i'd like.

Branden
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

Here's the gap and digital camo jpegs in black and white so whoever needs them can print and cut.

2ak9vgo.jpg

24462h0.jpg
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

Thanks for the write up and stencils 2guard. I've had my tacti-cool laying around since may. You've given me the inspiration to finally get the ball rolling. Picked up all the supplies last night. Now lets just see how bad I can botch my attempt. lol
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

Took the FVTR and my 17hmr btvs out to my parents farm saturday and took some pics of the new stock setup. It's holding around 4-5" at 200 in 20 shots. It seems to like high velocity ammo best. Federal Champion Target and Fiocchi Biathlon shot the best. The Federal CT was actually the most accurate, but the ammo in inconsistent and will have a flyer every now and then. The standard velocity stuff shot well at 50, but the fvt would not shoot it very consistent past that. I was able to get the Aguila match to group well at 100, but would not hold well at 200 (Same with fed gold medal target and rws target). I am going to order some RWS R100 (1132fps) and try it at 200, should be much better at holding than the fed ct. The rifle is excellent at 50 with the FCT and Fiocchi also. I'm wondering how much better it will shoot (if any) if I bed it some. I also shot the 17 some, only about 50 rounds, where as I shot about 300 with the FVT. The stock is so much better than the factory junk, and the adjustable buttplate helps a lot with my long reach. I'll be putting the 10/22 stock paint on the back burner for the moment. My McGowen 6.5 creedmoor barrel is supposed to be in today or tomorrow for my other build.
Enjoyed it, post up some pics.
34qtuf6.jpg

5oea6p.jpg

11290nd.jpg
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

Hey nice work man. I like it. So the crazy deal stock was ok? I'm afraid to grab one and have it in crappy condition to work with. Also, what butt pad is that?
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

yes, stock was fine. It wasnt painted with textured paint like the regular ones, and there were no sling swivels. The mag plate area has a little proud, letting the metal set high, but a minute with a dremel fixed that. The action fit is almost perfect. I have bought stocks from boyds before with good results (both seconds and not), but this one has had the tightest action fit on it. I dont think I'm going to bed it at all. I'm never worried about the sanding or finish on a stock I'm going to paint anyway (especially multiple coats), I always sand the stock at least once before painting. Boyds also lists the imperfections with the stocks on the seconds. I bought a royal jac laminated stock from them once, and I could not find any problems although they listed it as a blem in the laminate.
The buttplate is an NOS remington 540xr setup. I picked it up from westerngunparts.com. They are located in canada, but I had no problems ordering and the plate was packaged nicely and took about 2 weeks to get here. The length really made the stock more comfortable for me (I usually wear a 36-37 inch sleeve).
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

10,000 hours later.......Haha

Great looking rifle. I really like how much pride and time you put into your savage. I bet it was a fun project and I always enjoy reading posts like these.

Keep up the good work!

Mark
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

OMG, you are going to go to that BIG GUN RANGE in the sky when you pass on. I have been searching for months for a nice MARPAT and GAP pattern to no avail. And you were kind enough to put one in the public domain for us. WOW, you have a friend for life in me!
Ray Guidry
New Orleans
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

I really appreciate this post. I have been very interested in customizing a few rifles but had no idea where to start. This got me off the sidelines. Thankyou!
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

That's a great looking turnout for the gun.

If you're looking for high quality fast ammo, I shot Lapua Speed Ace in competition, and it always did well for me.
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

thanks for the kind words and tips. Where can I buy the Lapua speed ace? I check midway but they do not carry it, I was about to order some rws r100 for it and was hoping they would carry the lapua also, but no luck. It likes Federal Champion target and CCI mini mags a lot, but I am getting a lot of flyers with both. The fiocchi biathlon also shoots well and is much more consistent than the others mentioned, but I heard the r100 is superior to it, and I'm sure the lapua will be too. I'd like to compare the two at 200 before I buy a brick of either.
About to start work on my savage 6.5 creedmoor stock. I'm going to attempt a ghost digital, like the old ghost flames on hot rods. It will not really see a lot of abuse, so I kind of want something different (but not candy colors like those crazy BR stocks).
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

2Gaurd- Thank You--- Question on the stock adj ( I am a real knuckle dragger) would it fit a remy 223 stock?? thanks
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

I think the measurements on the buttplate are 4.75" x 1.5" I cant remember the hole spacing, I will check tonight.
 
Re: Savage FVT build to FVT/R (pic heavy)

What happened with the bolt knob 2guard? Ever get it from Bill? Attach it?