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Savage Trigger Options

triceratops3

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 27, 2010
738
1
30
Northern VA
I've been wanting to replace the accutrigger on my savage 12flv but not sure which trigger I should go with.

Choice seems to be between

Rifle Basix- Sav-1 vs Sav-2 --Whats the difference between the two besides the pull weight range to cause the $70 dollar price difference?

Sharp Shooter Supply

Timney

and Jard.

Who has experience with any of these and which would you get?

Thanks.
 
I like the Accutrigger...but I like the SAV-1 much, much better...especially for $90.

The SAV-2 is an ultralight benchrest trigger, along the lines of the SSS Evolution trigger (which requires a time/true job).

Have no experience with the SSS Competition but it is very popular; also have no experience with the Timney.
 
I have a Savage Model 10 FCP and the Accutrigger has a 1 1/2 pound pull and is very crisp. This is the only rifle I never thought I had to replace or adjust the trigger on. On all my other rifles I either adjusted them or replaced them using a Timney trigger or like on my Browning A-Bolt I just bought the springs from Timney and installed them. Outside of that I have had no reason to go with any other company then Timney. Sounds old school but I go with what has worked well for me in the past. Good luck with what ever you go with.
 
A few thoughts:

I'd NEVER EVER EVER do business with SSS again. Fred can eat a dick.

I haven't seen an aftermarket trigger for Savage that I really like. The trigger/sear design of a Savage is shit, and in my opinion, MUST have the safety system of the accurelease (the "blade") to safely tune down by decreasing pull weight and sear engagement for creep-free release. There is a reason savage designed and included the blade on the accutrigger.

Most accutrigger owners have had a "lockup" when closing the bolt - without the blade, that would of been a slam fire.

There are mechanical reasons why this applies to Savage much more so than Remington or Winchester and it comes down to geometry.

I had an RB Sav1, and could not SAFELY get it below 2.5lb AND be creep-free.

I have an RB Sav2, which is a significant improvement over the Sav1, but I still don't truly trust it.

The key difference between the 1 and 2, is the 2 has an intermediate lever between trigger and sear that gives the trigger mechanical advantage over the sear. Thus compounding trigger force in order to release the sear. This makes it easy to get very low trigger pull weight, but exaggerates any creep.

It is always a delicate balance between enough sear engagement for safety and little enough to be creep free.

Personally, for a field rifle, I think the OEM accutrigger is the best bet.
 
Fred may be terrible to do business with, but without question he makes the best trigger for savages. Turbo, i agree the sear system on the savage sucks. I think Fred knew this, which is why his comp trigger has its own sear engagement cam. Its reliable down to about 18 ounces. IMO, is far superior to anything rifle basix or timney put out.
And you don't have to do business with Fred to own one, just order from tacticalworks.net.
 
Fred may be terrible to do business with, but without question he makes the best trigger for savages. Turbo, i agree the sear system on the savage sucks. I think Fred knew this, which is why his comp trigger has its own sear engagement cam. Its reliable down to about 18 ounces. IMO, is far superior to anything rifle basix or timney put out.
And you don't have to do business with Fred to own one, just order from tacticalworks.net.

I can't argue the merits of the SSS trigger one way or the other. I'll take your word on it though that it is a good unit.

However, simply on principle, I wouldn't buy one - from SSS directly, from a distributor, or even second-hand.

Like I said, Fred and SSS can eat a dick. Awful establishment.
 
I can't argue the merits of the SSS trigger one way or the other. I'll take your word on it though that it is a good unit.

However, simply on principle, I wouldn't buy one - from SSS directly, from a distributor, or even second-hand.

Like I said, Fred and SSS can eat a dick. Awful establishment.

I have had the opposite experience with SSS...but then I have never dealt directly with Fred..only his wife, Lisa. I would have spoken with Fred, but for a long time he wasn't available due to some kind of medical issues and maybe that affected how you/he interacted or affected his availability to you.......I am kind of mystified to hear all this negative stuff about their operation, as my PERSONAL experiences with them have bee SO, SO different!!

On the original TRIGGER subject, I have no personal experience with aftermarket triggers for my Savage (with accutrigger) at all. I have experienced a sort of "variable" trigger pull....varying in let-off and wandering mostly over time toward the decreasing side, which eventually wound up with the trigger sometimes "dropping" and locking up when the bolt was closed...and that was DEFINITELY NOT slamming it shut. I will say that it never slam fired or went off when it "dropped" as the sear is never released in that circumstance, but it is pretty frustrating to get all in position to shoot and on target, only to find that the trigger is locked up and you have to "re-cycle" the bolt to get it all cocked/set again. The matches I shoot in, an extremely light trigger is not the best for me but having a fairly light, crisp and CONSISTENT trigger pull is important. I have been wondering what I can do to improve that gun's trigger...which aftermarket trigger is actually an improvement and worth the cost....OTOH, I have pretty much gone back to an accurized Remmy 700 action, Krieger Barrel, Timney Trigger, Competition Machine Chassis rig in 6.5 Creedmoor, so the Savage will only be a "backup" gun or used if I have a guest that wants to go out and shoot a match with me sometime. I have, however, had reports from a buddy of mine of great service and a good trigger from SS and Fred when he times the action and installs one of his triggers...and that is for a reasonable cost, also.
 
Rifle Basix SAV-1 set at 24oz is what I run on my .260Rem and 6.5SAUM builds. The 6.5Creedy still has the stock Accu-trigger around 32oz. YMMV
 
Rifle Basix SAV-1 set at 24oz is what I run on my .260Rem and 6.5SAUM builds. The 6.5Creedy still has the stock Accu-trigger around 32oz. YMMV

Hey, I am getting ready to do a lighter green paint job on a stock and, from looking at the pics you posted, am thinking that I want to do it pretty much in the light green that appears on the lower of the two stocks you have in the pic you posted. So...what color is that? I'm kind of hoping that it is a DuraCoat color as I have had great luck with their (somewhat expensive!) paints. The color I am asking about is the one that is on the front part of the pistol grip and there is also a blob of it on the side of the stock not too far (maybe 6 or 8 inches?) to the rear of the pistol grip on the R/H side of the stock.

Thanks!!
 
Hey, I am getting ready to do a lighter green paint job on a stock and, from looking at the pics you posted, am thinking that I want to do it pretty much in the light green that appears on the lower of the two stocks you have in the pic you posted. So...what color is that? I'm kind of hoping that it is a DuraCoat color as I have had great luck with their (somewhat expensive!) paints. The color I am asking about is the one that is on the front part of the pistol grip and there is also a blob of it on the side of the stock not too far (maybe 6 or 8 inches?) to the rear of the pistol grip on the R/H side of the stock.

Thanks!!

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...-coatings-camo-pics-thread-5.html#post2813800

The color you are inquiring about is actually Cerakote Desert Verde that Shortbus matched in his normal paints. It varies from green to yellow dependent on the lighting. In Duracoat colors I'd look at #'s: 10, 112, 117, 176, 163, 159, 32. Green can be a very finicky color to get JUST the shade you want.
 
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...-coatings-camo-pics-thread-5.html#post2813800

The color you are inquiring about is actually Cerakote Desert Verde that Shortbus matched in his normal paints. It varies from green to yellow dependent on the lighting. In Duracoat colors I'd look at #'s: 10, 112, 117, 176, 163, 159, 32. Green can be a very finicky color to get JUST the shade you want.

Yeah...getting the green I want has always been tough. Currently I tend to paint stocks in one color and then adapt the cammo to the season and the local flora colors using stuff I pick from the what is out there. One can never find a cammo that works all the time, everywhere. From my military experience I learned that among cammos that aren't JUST PERFECT, a too dark setup will pretty much ALWAYS be spotted before one that is a similar number of shades too light. Therefore, I tend to go on the lighter end of the spectrum and then modify that with the current colors from the area. As far as looks goes, I tend to like the color from DuraCoat called German Olive Gray (#32 IRRC) in a basic one color paint job and the dessert tans or multi beige if I am going off in the browner direction. I have some of both left and want to use some of the other DuraCoat stuff I have around and maybe come up with something that is a little lighter than the German Olive Gray. You don't happen to remember what colors/numbers he used and in what ratios, do you?
 
I, for one, really like the Accutrigger setup. While I do modify the springs geometry, and swap them around, it gets down to where I want it, and it is SAFE!!

I absolutely hated my SSS Comp trigger, and promptly sold it to a poor ol chap in Canada. Other than the Accutrigger, the only trigger that I really like, is the SAV-1. It might take a bit to get it adjusted to exactly where you want it, but it is a great trigger. I just prefer the overall "safe" aspects of the Accutrigger.

Play around with it before you decide to change it out, you might be pleasantly surprised!!

DK
 
Go over to the Savage site and look back at all of the neg. comments on SSS. There are 2-3 neg. for every pos. I have had a rifle built by him and never again. Nothing was done right and they would not answer after they had my money. It shot OK but the finish work was as bad as TR rifles or worse.