school me on dies please

[memo43]

As the title says, please school me on dies without out to many beatings. I have searched the Hide, and could not really find what I was looking for. Heck maybe even make a sticky.

I know a <span style="text-decoration: underline">full lenght die </span>is just that, it resizes the full lenght of the brass.
A <span style="text-decoration: underline">neck only </span> just resizes the neck.
and of coursr a seat die and micro seater, just seat the bullet.

But what is a small base die, and a body die, collet dies, what other style of dies are there for reloading. Also when do you use them accordingly.
Can some one please educate me and if you have pics please post so that I (hopefully we) can all learn.

thanks in advance.

 

[fireEMT5]

Re: school me on dies please

I can't give you real in depth answers to all your questions, but when I reload for my 5.56 AR I use RCBS full length dies and my reloads work just fine in my AR. I adjusted them for the headspace in my rifle, and so far no problems what so ever.

Someone correct me if I am wrong, but small base dies will take your brass down to the minimum specs on your brass. I don't think small base dies are recommended for bolt guns at all.

A realoading manual such as Hornady or Speer will touch on it more.

 

[MALLARD]

Re: school me on dies please

Small-base dies resize cases slightly smaller at the base

a body die resizes the body of a case but not the neck ( think of it like a full lenght size die that leaves the neck alone)

a collet die uses a collet to perform specific operation ( neck sizing or crimping usually),

bushing dies , using specific diameter bushings to size the neck , you can get both full length or neck sizing type bushing dies.

flare/expander die , flares case mouth open , ( pistol die)

crimp die , roll/taper or collet type , puts a crimp on the bullet , collet dies sort of make their own cannelure. Both work good though.

there is a few custom dies out there , bullet sizing dies , bullet pointing dies ,


if you want pics you can just google it.

 

[BigJakeJ1s]

Re: school me on dies please

What Mallard said.

A few extra bits:

flare/expander dies are sometimes used on rifle cartridges, to reduce run-out (off-center necks) and/or for using lead bullets.

Some seating dies have an alignment sleeve that aligns that bullet, case, and seating plug prior to inserting the bullet into the case mouth. Some sleeves engage all or most of the cartridge body and neck, some only engage the neck. Some of these include micrometer adjustment for seating depth, some are available without it, at lower cost.

Andy

 

[scotharr]

Re: school me on dies please

Your choice of dies depends on what you shoot and what conditions you shoot, and what brass you use: lots of variables. Here is a short list of thoughts:

-Use a Full length die: avoid the fancy neck & body dies. Many of the world's best shooters use full-length dies exclusively. F/L dies are definitely mandatory on semi-autos to insure proper function.

-Since you don't know what a neck, body, or collet die are, you don't need them. Really, these are optional dies that are not needed for basic reloading...or even advanced reloading for that matter.

-Full-length dies with neck bushings would be my overall top choice for most uses (ala Redding Type S F/L die) . Get at least 2 neck bushings .002 & .003 under the loaded cartridge neck diameter.

-Understanding shoulder bump is critical. Either adjust the die proper or get the Redding competition shell holders. Not enough bump and you'll have difficulty chambering, too much bump and you will induce early case-head separation. The best way to adjust should bump is to measure fired brass dimensions and then adjust your die until resized brass is bumped .001-.002 or .003 for an AR.

Small Base dies simply return brass to SAAMI minimum specifications (which new brass usually starts at. A standard full-length die returns brass somewhere between SAAMI minumum and SAAMI Max. Usually, standard full-length dies are the best choice because they size the brass plenty for reliable function. Only choose a small base die when you are forced to because of a tight chamber: hopefully this will never happen to you. Another use case for a small base die might be when you are picking up range brass fired in another rifle. It's best to squeeze this brass back down to factory new with a small base die before using it in your rifle. Otherwise, you'll run into situations where you F/L size range brass but it still does not fit in your particular chamber. Once the range brass is fireformed in your chamber, then you can use a regular F/L die.

Competition seating dies with micrometer heads are one of the first upgrades you want to perform: they produce much straighter ammunition that standard seating dies. Depending on your funds, you might want to get this right away.

Bottom line: Get a Redding Competition sizing and F/L Type S bushing die. Get two Reddding titanium nitride bushings .002 & .003 under your loaded cartridge neck diameter. Get Redding competition shell holders.

 

[BigJakeJ1s]

Re: school me on dies please

If you don't change bullet styles a lot, you can save $50 from the Redding Comp seater, and get the same seating die, just without the micrometer, from Forster. The micrometer does nothing to help reload consistent, concentric ammo, the internal sleeve and plug do that. Redding copied Forster's design after the patent expired, and called it their Competition seater. Forster offers it with (Ultra Benchrest) or without (Benchrest) the micrometer, for a lot less $$.

Forster also has F/L bushing dies, but they are about the same $$ as Redding.

Andy

 

[memo43]

Re: school me on dies please

Thanks I appreciate everyone's responce. I think I am trying to hard to make the best ammo but then again I think everyone is. I will stick to what I have, for now unless someone can shed more light.
I am using RCBS F/L dies and also a small base die, for 223.
RCBS F/L for 308.
For seating I use Redding comp dies for both calibers.
I do have neck dies for both but never use them.
I also have neck die for my 30-06 an a RCBS comp seater.
I also use an expander die for my 308.
I do have the standard seater dies for my 223 an 308, but hold onto them for the just in case.
all my reloading is done on single stage presses.
rock chucker for deprimeing an sizeing, Lee for seating.

 

[SScott]

Re: school me on dies please

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: memo43</div><div class="ubbcode-body">rock chucker for deprimeing an sizeing, Lee for seating.

</div></div>
You might consider using the Rock chucker for seating, I don't trust my Lee for seating because I don't like how they designed their stop pins, they are just dimples on the flat arms. I feel that I can vary my seating by how hard I come down with the press.
I use my Lee for priming and de priming.
SScott

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Re: school me on dies please

I hope you are using case gages to confirm the amount of sizeing you are doing.
Respectfully,
LG

 

[vman]

Re: school me on dies please

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Scooter-PIE</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

-Understanding shoulder bump is critical. Either adjust the die proper or get the Redding competition shell holders. Not enough bump and you'll have difficulty chambering, too much bump and you will induce early case-head separation. The best way to adjust should bump is to measure fired brass dimensions and then adjust your die until resized brass is bumped .001-.002 or .003 for an AR.

</div></div>

Great advice