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Rifle Scopes scope correction

macv

Private
Minuteman
Sep 16, 2004
57
0
87
no. wisconsin. USA
Hello, I mounted a Bushnell 4200 6x24 last week and then finally fired it. This scope sits on a Sav. SS action with a Farrel one piece base. The scope was zeroed out at installation and found that it is very close right on at the Ela. position. But the windage does not leave me many clicks for LEFT windage. I only have 29 clks. left before I run out. This scope has 99 clicks either way when it is zeroed out. The rings that I am useing are Burris sign. Zee rings. If I were to get the different degree inserts, can I use them on the left and right side of the scope to get me more zeroed out. Or are the inserts used just for elavation. Is there another way to slove this problem. And also would this method now change my present elavation readings. Thank you.
 
Re: scope correction

I had a similar problem with my Savage Mod 10 FP LE .308 with EGW 20 moa base. With the two piece bases that were on the gun had no problem, put the EGW base on and ran out of windage.
I thought the mounting holes on the gun or the base was off center. Took everything apart, remounted the base, rings and scope. The problem went away. I torqued everything both times, not sure what fixed it, but it was GTG.
 
Re: scope correction

Yes, I had bore sighted it first. Funny how it worked just by redoing it all over again. Might give it a try. Still thinking about trying the degree inserts if it don't straighten out a bit by doing it all over again. Do you see any reason why the inserts would not work useing them on the sides?
 
Re: scope correction

i had almost the exact same thing happen to me awhile ago. i was using warne quick release rings...changed to burris xtr's and no more problem
 
Re: scope correction

STOP.

Remove the top half of the ring. Now take the scope, while moving the erector knobs and watch the reticle as you rotate the scope 180* in the bottom half of the rings. You will note that the center of the reticle describes an arc. Rotate the knobs as you rotate the scope until your center reticle stays fixed in the center. Your scope is now mecahnically zeroed. Mount it.
Get out to the range. Zero it at 25M. Now move to 50, and zero. Move to 100M and zero. You should notice a lot more travel on both knobs at this point. If not, your hardware was not centered in the receiver at the factory, and a 'smith who is known for accurate work should remount your stuff with the larger 8x40 hardware.