So I just bought a tangent theta and a sphur. Super excited to try them out but when I use the sphur wedge to line everything up the reticle is not straight. If I straighten the reticle you can tell the scope is not straight in the mount. The wedge did not come with the mount I bought one off Mile high because the mount was second hand and didn’t come with a wedge could that affect it. Any advise would be appreciated
Rifle Scopes Scope mounting problems
- Thread starter Andrew07
- Start date
This is why I use a badger dead level and a plumb bob. But l‘ll just say this, if in fact a TT has an even slightly crooked reticle..........SEND IT BACK. For that amount of money it better be perfect. Any
I'm not familiar with a TT, but I found with a Gen 2 Razor, the wedge hits the windage knob and won't work. Any chance this is the case with the TT?
The wedge isn’t hitting the turrets. I’ve got a mpa chassis and the level in it and the level in the sphur Mount line up with one another and the rifle looks level but when I put the wedge under the scope it levels out the scope housing but when I look through it the reticle is canted counter clockwise. I know anything is possible but has any body ever ran into this on tangent before?
The important question.
It looks worse than just a little. Please explain how y’all use a plumb bob to check it. I’ve heard of just looking through the scope to line it up with it. Then some people use a flash light? I guess the best way to check it would be a tall target test?
Hang a plumb Bob from the ceiling.
Level your rifle while looking through the scope at the string hanging the plumb bob.
If the scope is level and the reticle is level, the line on the plumb Bob should be perfectly inline with the vertical portion of the reticle.
Level your rifle while looking through the scope at the string hanging the plumb bob.
If the scope is level and the reticle is level, the line on the plumb Bob should be perfectly inline with the vertical portion of the reticle.
It may depending on your head position. Just hang a line out or even anything that is perfectly vertical and then level the scope and put it to the plumb line. That will tell you if the reticle is canted or not.
OP is making this (setting/checking reticle vertical alignment) harder than is needs to be.
I've settled on the "flashlight method" after using about every approach over time. Do this:
I've settled on the "flashlight method" after using about every approach over time. Do this:
- Mount rings/base on rifle's pic rail per their instructions.
- Hang a length of heavy sewing thread or very fine string, weighted on one end, from a picture hook or somesuch so the thread is no more than 1/8 - 1/4 inch from the wall. Thread must move freely enough that gravity pulls it straight. Some people suggest putting the weighted end in a cup of water to dampen any movement.
- Place rifle on a table or whatever with the butt almost touching the thread. Level the pic rail. I use the builtin compass app on my iPhone.
- Place the scope loose on its mount.
- Shine a bright flashlight through the objective end of the scope. This will "project" the reticle onto the wall, ideally right on top of the thread's shadow. Obviously, this works best in a darkened room. The flashlight on your phone is at best marginal for the purpose; a good LED flashlight is optimal.
- Rotate the scope until the projected elevation reticle image is perfectly aligned with the thread's shadow. You can play with magnification and parallax on the scope to get the best projected image. Start at moderate magnification in the scope's range and infinite parallax.
- Carefully tighten top rings or Spuhr "covers" enough that the scope won't move. Recheck alignment.
- Tighten rings/covers to manufacturer's spec.
At work now but I’ll try leveling it up with the wedge again and checking with a plumb line hung at about 50 yards or so and let you know what I find. If it’s not straight I’ll use the flashlight method it seems kinda full proof. Thanks for all the help and suggestions
I don't trust small bubble levels. I use a damn good carpenters torpedo level on the rail, and incorporate the plumb bob or flashlight method along with it. The objective is to make sure the crosshairs are level with the rail on the rifle. If so, (assuming the rail is inline with the rifle bore) then everything is good.
We have a vice that overhangs the bench allowing us to sight about 25 ft to a wall.
Pre assemble and set eye relief.
We mark it with tape.
Disassemble and we place barrel in a v cut nylon vice jaw protector.
We use a quality bubble level and zero the rail or rings both ways. A magnetic base holds it, you will be glad about that.
A homade plum bob on the wall and a flashlight.
Zero every time. And faster than other things I've tried.
You wont be craining your neck or bumping things etc.
Pre assemble and set eye relief.
We mark it with tape.
Disassemble and we place barrel in a v cut nylon vice jaw protector.
We use a quality bubble level and zero the rail or rings both ways. A magnetic base holds it, you will be glad about that.
A homade plum bob on the wall and a flashlight.
Zero every time. And faster than other things I've tried.
You wont be craining your neck or bumping things etc.
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