Rifle Scopes Scope Windage Turret Issue Following 200-yd Zero of New Scope

[Ronin4870]

I Seek Wisdom, Please...

The facts, as I understand them to be:

*- Just mounted a new scope on my Rem 700 AAC-SD - 20” heavy barrel - .308 - Bell & Carlson A-5, fully adjustable cheek rest & LOP - 20-MOA rail - “decent” tactical / LRP rings...

*- NEW SCOPE: Vortex Viper PST 6x24x50 FFP GENERATION ONE. It’s important to note that it’s the GEN 1, I reckon, though I bought it as a NEW scope, not used.

*- So, as I understood things from the Vortex Corp website, a “new” Vortex scope should arrive with elev. & wind. turrets at “Optical Center”.

*- I mount said Vortex PST on a 20-MOA rail with “capable” 4-bolt Leopold tactical rings...

*- I go to a local indoor range with a 100-yd rifle bay, & I zero to a (theoretical) 200-yd zero. My last 3-shot group was inside a quarter - or maybe a half-dollar - but right & tight for now until I can “super-tweak” for LRPS.

*- Satisfied with my “90%-ish” zero, I proceed to install the CRS Zero Stop shims on the elevation turret; the zero mark on the elevation turret ends up positioned nicely between 2-3 on the turret knob shroud... like buttah.

*- I go to reposition the windage turret to the “zero” mark & realize that sadly, something is catiwompus...

*- First, remember that new Vortex scopes are (presumed) to arrive tuned to “optical center”; I did not take note of where the turrets rested when I began my zeroing process.

- The number of windage adjustments that I made on the turret before reaching windage “zero” was roughly 10-12 - 1/4-MOA / clicks - or roughly 2 - 2 1/2 inches at 100-yds.

- When I loosened the turret screws on the windage turret to reposition the turret knob to the “zero” position, I realized that the markings on the windage turret FINAL position had the “zero” line on the turret lined up to position 5 on the shroud; in effect, I have maybe ONE full rotation of right windage, & maybe 4-5 full rotations of left windage... it’s not even close to being positioned to allow for relatively even right / left windage adjustment?!

*- I called Vortex & was told that the finite imperfections that are inherent in assembling any rifle - particularly in a rifle with the performance expectations of an LRPS rifle - can cause such “discrepancies” that a (new Vortex) scope might require excessive adjustment in order to achieve ZERO... Really, is that normal or true?

*- The thing is, I ONLY made 10-12 clicks of windage adjustment to the turret before I was at zero?! Now way 10-12 clicks at 1/4 MOA takes a windage turret from “Optically centered” (between 2-3 on the turret shroud) clear out to 5 on the shroud where there’s maybe one full rotation to the right, but 3x that to the left?!

?? - Is any of this making sense at all?

Dude at Vortex suggested I order some “windage adjustable rings”...

Another dude I met felt like if there was enough wind to require a full right rotation, then the wind is going to be too strong to make a precision shot (at 700-yds plus? 500-yds?)

Someone PLEASE tell me if I need to throw some cash at this problem (for windage adjustable rings), if I can justify the knowledge that for now, I’ll only have one full rotation of right windage, or quit being a pussy & learn to use hold-over marks?

Many thanks, Fella’s

Best - s

FYI - if pictures would help make this issue easier to understand, lemme know & Ill take a couple...

 

[dirthead1]

Just hold for wind. It could be imperfections in the base alignment to the receiver, not the scope.

 

[Ronin4870]

Just hold for wind. It could be imperfections in the base alignment to the receiver, not the scope.

Well... when I mounted my new 20-MOA rail to the action (purchased for this scope / build) the fit was pretty precise?! Not much play, if ANY?! Possible the rail is crooked?

 

[Northernjets]

Well... when I mounted my new 20-MOA rail to the action (purchased for this scope / build) the fit was pretty precise?! Not much play, if ANY?! Possible the rail is crooked?

Certainly not impossible for off centered scope base holes on a factory rifle. I had a Savage 10TR that had that issue.

 

[dirthead1]

Well... when I mounted my new 20-MOA rail to the action (purchased for this scope / build) the fit was pretty precise?! Not much play, if ANY?! Possible the rail is crooked?

Possibly, or the holes are slightly off in relation to the bore. Could be a number of things. I’ve had rifles that required 4-5 moa windage adjustment from center at 100 yards. That’s all been with remingtons. Probably won’t see that with a custom action. If your reticle provides you with windage subtensions, I would just use them rather than dialing. We always dial elevation and hold windage. But you could mount another scope and check zero versus center of adjustment range to verify if it’s your scope or the action/mounting rail.

 

[supercorndogs]

How much elevation adjustment do you still have? If you are not far enough out of center its effecting your erector travel, I would leave it. If its is, I would probably order some windage adjustable rings.

 

[Ronin4870]

Certainly not impossible for off centered scope base holes on a factory rifle. I had a Savage 10TR that had that issue.

Thanks for sharing, Northernjets - glad to know it’s not a “rare” issue (I guess!?)... so, how did you deal with it? That’s what I’m trying to figure out: invest money in “windage adjustable rings” & the time to fine-tune windage adjustments so that my right / left adjustments are equal, or... just deal with it for the time being since my opp’s to shoot past 100-yds are non-existent at the moment? That said, I’m actively on the hunt for connections that can “guest” me into a 500 - 1,000-yd range, in which case even windage adjustments would be handy.

Bare in mind, my goal is to have built a platform that is highly precise at 500 - 800-yds, & hopefully... eventually... out to 1,000-yds; dead-nuts on with the full range of elev. / wind. adjustments designed into the optic.

So, how did you approach & remedy this issue with your 10TR?

Cheers - s

 

[Ronin4870]

Possibly, or the holes are slightly off in relation to the bore. Could be a number of things. I’ve had rifles that required 4-5 moa windage adjustment from center at 100 yards. That’s all been with remingtons. Probably won’t see that with a custom action. If your reticle provides you with windage subtensions, I would just use them rather than dialing. We always dial elevation and hold windage. But you could mount another scope and check zero versus center of adjustment range to verify if it’s your scope or the action/mounting rail.

Good input, Dirthead... if faced with deciding between dialing or using hold-overs, I’m more inclined to learn to use my subtensions. Maybe it’s the traditionalist in me, or maybe it’s simply an overly-evolved desire to understand how to use my equipment. Though using hold-over marks takes more practice & an intimate knowledge of my equipment, I’m more inclined to take the time to really LEARN to effectively use my equipment, as well as the fact that learning to use hold-over marks benefits the shooter by making target acquisition faster, & not having to take the time to adjust turrets for distance & wind saves time & focus.

Thanks for your input, my friend!

Cheers - s

 

[Powder_Burns]

I’d say odds are pretty good your receiver was tapped crooked or the barrel threads in your action are off center. Production remingtons aren’t that great qc wise anymore. Like everyone else mentioned, dial elevation and hold wind.

 

[Ronin4870]

I’d say odds are pretty good your receiver was tapped crooked or the barrel threads in your action are off center. Production remingtons aren’t that great qc wise anymore. Like everyone else mentioned, dial elevation and hold wind.

That’s disappointing to know that Remington would be so lack with their QC... that’s said, I think you’re right at this point; I’ve got it dialed about 90% true (a guesstimation) & in lieu of throwing more money & time at the problem - & obsessing over “perfection” - I just need to learn to dial elevation & use hold-over for windage... learn to effectively “run what I brung”

Thanks for chiming in, Powder Burns - good advice!

Cheers - s

 

[Powder_Burns]

Remington is the Ford of the rifle industry.
Good name, product not so much anymore.
If it goes bang when and where you want it to, you’re good to go.

 

[archangel485]

Good input, Dirthead... if faced with deciding between dialing or using hold-overs, I’m more inclined to learn to use my subtensions. Maybe it’s the traditionalist in me, or maybe it’s simply an overly-evolved desire to understand how to use my equipment. Though using hold-over marks takes more practice & an intimate knowledge of my equipment, I’m more inclined to take the time to really LEARN to effectively use my equipment, as well as the fact that learning to use hold-over marks benefits the shooter by making target acquisition faster, & not having to take the time to adjust turrets for distance & wind saves time & focus.

Thanks for your input, my friend!

Cheers - s

@dirthead1 (and others) was saying to dial elevation, don't try to holdover for that. If you get out too far elevation can be almost impossible to hold for and it's certainly far less precise, so dial that one. Wind is somewhat of a guess anyways so if you're not within 1/4MOA it's okay, you're wind guess isn't that close anyways. Also there is generally far less windage than elevation, especially out at that 1000yd mark, another reason it's okay to hold for wind. Plus if you're trying to hold for both you'll have a very difficult time with repeatability unless you have a Christmas tree reticle, even then it's very tough. Only time you might dial windage is for a mover and in that case you should have enough to take care of it.

I have some R700s that were off by several minutes from optical center, never seen one off by several rotations though. Not saying it's impossible for your action to be that far off, just seems like a lot. I wouldn't bother with getting windage rings though, that's just one more thing that can move when you don't want it to in my mind. Sorry if I missed it but what base and rings did you get?

 

[Northernjets]

Thanks for sharing, Northernjets - glad to know it’s not a “rare” issue (I guess!?)... so, how did you deal with it? That’s what I’m trying to figure out: invest money in “windage adjustable rings” & the time to fine-tune windage adjustments so that my right / left adjustments are equal, or... just deal with it for the time being since my opp’s to shoot past 100-yds are non-existent at the moment? That said, I’m actively on the hunt for connections that can “guest” me into a 500 - 1,000-yd range, in which case even windage adjustments would be handy.

Bare in mind, my goal is to have built a platform that is highly precise at 500 - 800-yds, & hopefully... eventually... out to 1,000-yds; dead-nuts on with the full range of elev. / wind. adjustments designed into the optic.

So, how did you approach & remedy this issue with your 10TR?

Cheers - s

Short answer: sold it and bought a Tikka.

Long answer: my base had a bit of wiggle room, so I basically forced it the opposite direction as I torqued it down. Made a bit of a difference. I hold for wind anyway, so it was more of a nuisance than an issue. As the vortex rep mentioned, adjustable rings are probably the quickest and cheapest answer if you want to stay close to optically centered. A reputable Smith could probably upsize the holes to 8-32 while truing it and install a new base as well. This is all assuming it isn't the scope of course. Good luck with your build.

 

[Ronin4870]

How much elevation adjustment do you still have? If you are not far enough out of center its effecting your erector travel, I would leave it. If its is, I would probably order some windage adjustable rings.

39.25 MOA = 157 1/4-MOA elevation adjustments (clicks).

 

[Ronin4870]

@dirthead1 (and others) was saying to dial elevation, don't try to holdover for that. If you get out too far elevation can be almost impossible to hold for and it's certainly far less precise, so dial that one. Wind is somewhat of a guess anyways so if you're not within 1/4MOA it's okay, you're wind guess isn't that close anyways. Also there is generally far less windage than elevation, especially out at that 1000yd mark, another reason it's okay to hold for wind. Plus if you're trying to hold for both you'll have a very difficult time with repeatability unless you have a Christmas tree reticle, even then it's very tough. Only time you might dial windage is for a mover and in that case you should have enough to take care of it.

I have some R700s that were off by several minutes from optical center, never seen one off by several rotations though. Not saying it's impossible for your action to be that far off, just seems like a lot. I wouldn't bother with getting windage rings though, that's just one more thing that can move when you don't want it to in my mind. Sorry if I missed it but what base and rings did you get?

Roger that - I’ll keep everything as I have it for now & learn my windage subtensions. If / when the nuances of my Rem 700 become a problem, I’ll take your advice about having a GOOD smith take a look & either have them fix it, or maybe just move up to a custom action (with a slightly longer barrel... > 20”)

 

[archangel485]

Roger that - I’ll keep everything as I have it for now & learn my windage subtensions. If / when the nuances of my Rem 700 become a problem, I’ll take your advice about having a GOOD smith take a look & either have them fix it, or maybe just move up to a custom action (with a slightly longer barrel... > 20”)

Probably will work out. I will tell you my Bighorn Origin was within a few clicks of scope center when I mounted it up, very different story than my remmys. Anyways, I wish you the best.

 

[smoothy8500]

"I ONLY made 10-12 clicks of windage adjustment to the turret before I was at zero"

I have maybe ONE full rotation of right windage, & maybe 4-5 full rotations of left windage.

Have you confirmed that is correct and not just assumed based on some lines on the turret? It's possible the cap is not sitting fully on the stem, or the lines were etched incorrectly.

 

[Ronin4870]

Roger that - I’ll keep everything as I have it for now & learn my windage subtensions. If / when the nuances of my Rem 700 become a problem, I’ll take your advice about having a GOOD smith take a look & either have them fix it, or maybe just move up to a custom action (with a slightly longer barrel... > 20”)

As for base & rings... middle of the road, if I had to guess...

BASE: Weaver Tactical (Model 99485) Rem 700 - 20-MOA; aluminum

RINGS: Leupold PRW2 (Model 174084) - medium (height 1.05”) - steel - 4 screws / ring

LokTite blue on all screws

 

[Ronin4870]

Have you confirmed that is correct and not just assumed based on some lines on the turret? It's possible the cap is not sitting fully on the stem, or the lines were etched incorrectly.

The Vortex PST 6x24-50 GEN 1 comes with CRS “zero stop” shims; installed exactly as directed, so far as I know... I actually counted the number of elevation *clicks* from ZERO mark - not ACTUAL turret stop position which is maybe 5 clicks past ZERO mark - all the way up to mechanical stop, & counted 157 *clicks*.

157 X .25 = 39.25 or just shy of 40-MOA elevation adjustment. Given Vortex reputation & warranty, I would HOPE that such manufacturing blems (like improper etching) wouldn’t be a concern, but my glass IS a GEN 1, which could mean something where it comes to QC...

Just gonna run what I brung until I have a reason - & the funds - to do a proper fix. I think it’ll be good enough for me - a proper newbie whose not had the chance to pull the trigger at anything further down range than about 250-yds - to at least begin participating in some LRPS matches, learn, practice, fail, fix, rinse, repeat...

 

[Snuby642]

More than one scope of different brands has arrived in ome wrapped box.

I can assure you that asuming they are optically centered is a mistake I will try and never forget.

Many times the turret cap was off by an entire rotation.

 

[Ronin4870]

More than one scope of different brands has arrived in ome wrapped box.

I can assure you that asuming they are optically centered is a mistake I will try and never forget.

Many times the turret cap was off by an entire rotation.

Well...$HIT!?!? The guy at Vortex wasn’t exactly encouraging me to send it back to Vortex for an inspection, but now knowing what your experience has been, I might be inclined to send it to them at some point.

Thanks for the input, Snuby - I appreciate you sharing your experience with me!

cheers - s

 

[smoothy8500]

I actually counted the number of elevation *clicks*

I'm talking about windage since that was your complaint. I too have a PST Gen 1 and I don't think the witness marks are actually "correct" but are a guide to help indicate where you return to windage "zero".

 

[Ronin4870]

More than one scope of different brands has arrived in ome wrapped box.

I can assure you that asuming they are optically centered is a mistake I will try and never forget.

Many times the turret cap was off by an entire rotation.

That being said, a 100-yd zero (actually 200, in theory) is a zero just the same, regardless of turrets being off... what I’ve learned from replies to my post so far is: turret for elevation & subtension / hold-over marks for windage adjustments...

that sound about right to you, Snuby? For the now, at least...

 

[308pirate]

the windage turret FINAL position had the “zero” line on the turret lined up to position 5 on the shroud; in effect, I have maybe ONE full rotation of right windage, & maybe 4-5 full rotations of left windage...

Have you confirmed this by turning the windage turret all the way from zero to its right limit and then from zero to its left limit?

Holding for wind is not universal. There are situations where dialing for wind is the best course of action. Experience will tell you which and when.

I have a few suggestions

• Zero at 100 yards
• Stop counting inches and clicks. Do everything in angular units without converting

 

[Ronin4870]

Have you confirmed this by turning the windage turret all the way from zero to its right limit and then from zero to its left limit?

Holding for wind is not universal. There are situations where dialing for wind is the best course of action. Experience will tell you which and when.

I have a few suggestions

• Zero at 100 yards
• Stop counting inches and clicks. Do everything in angular units without converting

I have about 70 1/4-MOA adjustments for RIGHT windage, & about 207 1/4-MOA adjustments for LEFT windage...

Something is clearly Catiwompus with my windage turret & / or “optical center”...

F. ¥. €. |<. ! ! !

 

[Ronin4870]

I'm talking about windage since that was your complaint. I too have a PST Gen 1 and I don't think the witness marks are actually "correct" but are a guide to help indicate where you return to windage "zero".

I have about 70 1/4-MOA adjustments for RIGHT windage, & about 207 1/4-MOA adjustments for LEFT windage...

Something is clearly Catiwompus with my windage turret & / or “optical center”...

F. ¥. €. |<. ! ! !

 

[smoothy8500]

I have about 70 1/4-MOA adjustments for RIGHT windage,

Not optimal, but since 800yds won't be maxing out your erector with the available 39MOA of elevation you should have sufficient windage internally to correct for wind. As mentioned by others, your screw holes or base are not aligned.

Just go shoot it.

 

[Powder_Burns]

What I do with scopes, mechanically zero scope with a mirror, mount it to rifle and zero for 100 and write down how many clicks for that zero. Reset turrets to zero and go. Now if I ever switch to a different rifle, I have the corrections written down so if the scope swaps between guns I know how many clicks to adjust to another zero. Dial it, shoot to confirm, then reset turrets to zero.

 

[Ronin4870]

Not optimal, but since 800yds won't be maxing out your erector with the available 39MOA of elevation you should have sufficient windage internally to correct for wind. As mentioned by others, your screw holes or base are not aligned.

Just go shoot it.

Roger that... just shoot it. The day will come to fix it, but not now...

Thanks for chiming in, Smoothy - big help, bro - I’m grateful

 

[Ronin4870]

What I do with scopes, mechanically zero scope with a mirror, mount it to rifle and zero for 100 and write down how many clicks for that zero. Reset turrets to zero and go. Now if I ever switch to a different rifle, I have the corrections written down so if the scope swaps between guns I know how many clicks to adjust to another zero. Dial it, shoot to confirm, then reset turrets to zero.

Very valuable guidance, My Friend - thank you!!

 

[Snuby642]

Thinking that the main problem is scope is mounted poorly or out of spec part.

I personally would dissasemble everything and check for burrs, lumps poorly machined surfaces.

Scrutinize rail and rings, mechanically center scope travel and turrets.

Try again and torque things in sequence to mfg's speck.

Pita but I have had to do it over the years.

To be honest about it 75% of the time it was my fault and 25% of the time parts were bad.

Recently I have been better on my first attempt by going slow and pre assemble first for a good look and have another set of eyes look before I use loctite blue and a fat wrench.

 

[Ronin4870]

Thinking that the main problem is scope is mounted poorly or out of spec part.

I personally would dissasemble everything and check for burrs, lumps poorly machined surfaces.

Scrutinize rail and rings, mechanically center scope travel and turrets.

Try again and torque things in sequence to mfg's speck.

Pita but I have had to do it over the years.

To be honest about it 75% of the time it was my fault and 25% of the time parts were bad.

Recently I have been better on my first attempt by going slow and pre assemble first for a good look and have another set of eyes look before I use loctite blue and a fat wrench.

I guess it wouldn’t hurt... you may be right!?

A couple questions...

Should I invest in a torque-registering screwdriver?

Also, what’s this trick with using a mirror to establish optical / mechanical center?

 

[308pirate]

Not optimal, but since 800yds won't be maxing out your erector with the available 39MOA of elevation you should have sufficient windage internally to correct for wind. As mentioned by others, your screw holes or base are not aligned.

Just go shoot it.

Concur

 

[Ronin4870]

Concur

To all who replied, engaged, & provided a significant lesson on the mechanics of a proper scope set-up, & especially all the things that can screw one up in a hot-second... I Want Thank You - It was a stellar teachable moment from ALL of you...

CONCLUSION: Go pull triggers... copy that.

Cheers - Scott

 

[smoothy8500]

 

[Snuby642]

One of these or an equivalent is a good investment.

Wheeler Digital F.A.T. (Firearms Accurizing Torque) Torque Wrench

Wheeler's Digital F.A.T. Wrench brings even more precise torque settings to the hand held torque wrench market. This amazing digital hand held torque...

ads.midwayusa.com

Oops. I the manual modle.

 

[hlee]

I had this issue with a factory Remington rifle. Bought a set of leupold windage adjustable rings. No more issue. I hold for wind, but the reticle was so far out of center that I couldn’t get a circular image- there was always some shadowing.

 

[Ronin4870]

I had this issue with a factory Remington rifle. Bought a set of leupold windage adjustable rings. No more issue. I hold for wind, but the reticle was so far out of center that I couldn’t get a circular image- there was always some shadowing.

Sounds exactly like what I’m dealing with... did you dial both windage & elevation back to optical / mechanical “zero” before you re-mounted your optic & began tweaking the windage adjustment via the rings?

 

[Ronin4870]

One of these or an equivalent is a good investment.

Wheeler Digital F.A.T. (Firearms Accurizing Torque) Torque Wrench

Wheeler's Digital F.A.T. Wrench brings even more precise torque settings to the hand held torque wrench market. This amazing digital hand held torque...

ads.midwayusa.com

Oops. I the manual modle.

I’ll check it out - thank you!!

 

[hlee]

Sounds exactly like what I’m dealing with... did you dial both windage & elevation back to optical / mechanical “zero” before you re-mounted your optic & began tweaking the windage adjustment via the rings?

Yes, and while not perfect, it is substantially better than it was...

 

[Ronin4870]

Yes, and while not perfect, it is substantially better than it was...View attachment 7382727

Based on how far off my windage adjustments are - Right (70 +/-) adjustments vs left (170) - it’s starting to sound like those Leopold windage adjustable rings might be my only best option... Such a drastic discrepancy in windage adjustments on what is meant to be a long-range PRECISION rifle is unacceptable... at least by my standards.

 

[Snuby642]

My results were much better with a vortex strike eagle 4x24x50.

Moa scope 3 clicks from center on my 6.5g upper.

Tried for a picture but it is just touching the third (middle) band.

So I got lucky on barrel / reciever mount and scope first try.

Wish they all lined up that easy.

Edit: being an entire rotation out would drive me to drink.

 

[hlee]

Angles suck for photos. Mine‘s about 1/2 a rev off. Close enough that the image is round and not oblong. From where I started it is a huge improvement. And, I’m holding for wind most of the time so I rarely look at the windage turret- I didn’t even zero out the turret after I zeroed the scope.

 

[Snuby642]

1/2 rev is fine picture made it look like 1 plus to me.

Since it only takes one minute to zero why would you not.

Even if you never dial wind that would let you see if it got bumped / turned by accident or in my case a grandson in gunsmith training.

 

[TRyanOC]

I have a Rem700. I leveled the rifle in a vise both ways, took the top half of the rings off along with the scope of course, and then put a level on each lower ring half. The front one was dead on and the back one was 1/2 a bubble out. That's when I knew I had to bed the rail. I just watched some YouTube videos and read as much as I could about it on here. It was easy.

 

[Jordanwickham]

Are you saying you have 70 MOA windage adjustment? Not sure how that could be since it only has 65 MOA in the first place. Either way there's no situation you would ever need 70 MOA windage at 1000yrds. If you meant 70 clicks that's still 17 and some change MOA. Unless you are in a 20 mph full value wind ( which would be far less fun than it's worth ) you can dial that out. If all else fails Vortex has a really good warranty program.

 

[Snuby642]

How did you conclude the rail was strait?

Or just bed to correct it?

 

[Quarter Horse]

Possibly a ring cap torque issue. Early Viper 6.5-20s could be easily over torqued and bind the erector but I don't think that is your problem. I'm guessing it is the barreled action. If you bought the AAC used just continue on as Remington in all likelihood will do nothing for you. If you bought it new I would stop right now. Your scope has 65MOA vertical travel and the same for horizontal (windage). Your vertical is about dead on in total travel and so is your windage.

If you have 40MOA of up with the zero stop shims you should have about 25 down with the shims removed for a total of about 65MOA.
You describe your windage as 70 clicks remaining left and 207 remaining right. A total of 277 clicks travel. 277/4 equals 69MOA which is close to the published 65MOA of windage.

I've been thinking about a way you could verify whether the problem is in the barreled action and I think I've got a simple solution. Remove the scope and rail from the action. Put one of the rail screws in the rear most mount hole on the action. Tie a piece of string to the screw ( good string would be the string that is used to sew the cavity on fowl). Stretch the string to the end of the barrel. Center the string over the middle of the bore with a piece of tape. Then simply sight down the string. If you look down on the string you will be able to see if the mounting holes are misaligned. When you sight down the length of the string you will be able to see a wow if one exists. The wow can be from thread misalignment in the action, thread misalignment on the barrel tenon or even a bent barrel (probably not).

If the problem is in misalignment of the mounting holes the fix is fairly easy. If they are far off a smith can simply redrill fore or aft of the existing holes. If the misalignment is in the barreled action interface there is probably not an economically feasible fix.

If it is in the barreled action and you bought it new I would send it back to Remington in the original stock if possible.

 

[hlee]

It is not uncommon for the mounting holes on a remington 700 to not be true to the bore line of the rifle. This is one of the reasons that people have them drilled and tapped for 8-32 screws. It gives a competent Smith the opportunity to true up the alignment.

@Snuby642 I was in a rush at the end of a range day and didn’t bother. Truth- the rifle hasn’t been out of the safe, except for that photo, since I re-zeroed the scope. I need to reconfirm zero, and correct the turret cap- if necessary. But, I’ve been dragging other guns along on my hunting trips, so it hasn’t been a priority.

 

[308pirate]

That being said, a 100-yd zero (actually 200, in theory) is a zero just the same,

A 100 yard zero is the same as a 200 yard zero?

News to me

Can you please explain the logic?