On the old style remington, for a tactical or "field" trigger how much sear engagement and overtravel do YOU set?
Gunsmithing Sear Engagement Question
- Thread starter LoneWolfUSMC
- Start date
- Tags
- engagement question sear
Re: Sear Engagement Question
Zero overtravle and bitch better brake like glass or its back to the shop. I like my pull weight around 2-2.5lbs. I bounce test the hell out of it and rack the bolt slow, fast, hard, soft and any other thing I can think of to get it to go off, if it does not its good to go.
My hunting rifle is the same but at 3-3.5lbs in case I have gloves on, it helps to be a little heavier.
Zero overtravle and bitch better brake like glass or its back to the shop. I like my pull weight around 2-2.5lbs. I bounce test the hell out of it and rack the bolt slow, fast, hard, soft and any other thing I can think of to get it to go off, if it does not its good to go.
My hunting rifle is the same but at 3-3.5lbs in case I have gloves on, it helps to be a little heavier.
Re: Sear Engagement Question
I had read that a little bit of overtravel is preferable on a field gun for dirt clearance.
I had read that a little bit of overtravel is preferable on a field gun for dirt clearance.
Re: Sear Engagement Question
First, set the sear engagement. You can see the engagement through a hole in the trigger housing. I usually eye it up, about 1/3 of the factory setting.
Then I turn in the over travel screw until it stops. Set like this, pulling the trigger will not fire the gun. Then I slowly back it out until pulling the trigger will let the striker drop. You want just enough trigger movement to drop the striker. An 1/8 turn on this screw can be a major adjustment.
As mentioned above, thoroughly test the adjustments. The lighter the pull weight, generally the more sear engagement needed.
First, set the sear engagement. You can see the engagement through a hole in the trigger housing. I usually eye it up, about 1/3 of the factory setting.
Then I turn in the over travel screw until it stops. Set like this, pulling the trigger will not fire the gun. Then I slowly back it out until pulling the trigger will let the striker drop. You want just enough trigger movement to drop the striker. An 1/8 turn on this screw can be a major adjustment.
As mentioned above, thoroughly test the adjustments. The lighter the pull weight, generally the more sear engagement needed.
Re: Sear Engagement Question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LoneWolfUSMC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I had read that a little bit of overtravel is preferable on a field gun for dirt clearance. </div></div>
I see the logic, but I abuse the hell out of mine: rain mud dirt grass branches....... its alway been safe and worked everytime. I have two older Rem triggers and One shilen. Shilen at 2lbs one remmy at 2lbs and the other remmy is at 3ish.
I like two stage triggers and single stage, but dont want to "mix the two" overtravel always seemed gritty or inconsistant but that just me. I'm sure other will say they have over travel that is smooth and clean. To each his own.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LoneWolfUSMC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I had read that a little bit of overtravel is preferable on a field gun for dirt clearance. </div></div>
I see the logic, but I abuse the hell out of mine: rain mud dirt grass branches....... its alway been safe and worked everytime. I have two older Rem triggers and One shilen. Shilen at 2lbs one remmy at 2lbs and the other remmy is at 3ish.
I like two stage triggers and single stage, but dont want to "mix the two" overtravel always seemed gritty or inconsistant but that just me. I'm sure other will say they have over travel that is smooth and clean. To each his own.
Re: Sear Engagement Question
I pulled the X-mark back out and looked at it. I have just a little less than the engagement on the X-mark. I have just a hair of overtravel (same as the previous X-mark) but it's not noticeable unless I am looking at it when I dry fire. I am quite sure with the fast lock time of the 700 and recoil that I won't notice it at all.
I just need to do a little more dry firing to make sure it's where I like it. Then test it again and seal the adjustment screws before test firing.
I pulled the X-mark back out and looked at it. I have just a little less than the engagement on the X-mark. I have just a hair of overtravel (same as the previous X-mark) but it's not noticeable unless I am looking at it when I dry fire. I am quite sure with the fast lock time of the 700 and recoil that I won't notice it at all.
I just need to do a little more dry firing to make sure it's where I like it. Then test it again and seal the adjustment screws before test firing.
Similar threads
